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Gear selector


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27 replies to this topic

#1 Roger the Dodger

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 09:52 AM

Is this the original?
Posted Image
the cables look OK no signs of scorching, but gears get hard to select when everything gets hot.
I have changed the clutch master cylinder to day, but I doubt that to be the cause of a stiff gear change.
Roger :thumbsup:

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#2 Bibs

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 09:58 AM

Thanks Travis for the pic, here's a comparison for you Roger.

Posted Image

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#3 Roger the Dodger

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 10:12 AM

OK, well now I'm really embarrassed, I know the sub frame needs to come off, be sandblasted and powder coated. But, is Travis's original of later upgrade?
Roger :thumbsup:

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#4 Glyn Harper

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 11:01 AM

You have swapped your red clutch hose for a stainless one haven't you?
That is a well known cause of clutches that are hard to operate when hot.

With regards the gear linkages.. there is a mod you can do where the main shaft out of the gearbox is swapped for a much beefier one, making the bearing in the middle redundant. I did this on mine, and it really helps with play in the gearbox.

The is also another mod you can do, where you take each cable off and mount them to the top side of the selector arm thing.. you have to fettle the gearbox subframe slightly to do this.
This was standard on the Sport 300 (I believe) and I did it to mine with no adverse affects.. The net result is that the 'throw' on the gearlever is much shorter, but with an increased effort in selecting gear.
I prefer it this way to be honest.. but then my shoulders are big enough to cope!
It's reversible as well if you don't like it.. You will have to adjust everything afterwards to make sure it will still select gears of course!

Edited by Glyn Harper, 06 October 2008 - 11:03 AM.


#5 Bibs

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 11:15 AM

Mine has the stronger shaft and shorter shift too :thumbsup:

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#6 Kimbers

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 11:20 AM

As Glyn says Roger, check your clutch hose. If it's red you have red hose syndrome which is well known to make the gears hard to shift when hot. It would need to be changed for a Stainless one.

Mine has the stronger shaft and shorter shift too :thumbup:


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#7 Roger the Dodger

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 11:26 AM

Tis stainless hose, new slave cylinder, I rebuilt the master cylinder, but just chucked it and put a new one in today, I haven't driven since but I'm not expecting the selector to free up. Cables look in good condition, so I'm thinking it's in the rear linkage somewhere.

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#8 andydclements

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 11:38 AM

Try moving it all from the selector shaft, both with and without the cables (maybe one cable at a time.

If it's relatively easy to move the gear selector shaft but a struggle with one or more cable then I'd say the cable is failing internally.

Edited by andydclements, 06 October 2008 - 11:38 AM.


#9 esp88

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 12:03 PM

The picture showed same as my Esprit 88 turbo and check the 2 bearings in the translator assembly too !

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#10 Vulcan Grey

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 03:38 PM

OK, well now I'm really embarrassed, I know the sub frame needs to come off, be sandblasted and powder coated. But, is Travis's original of later upgrade?
Roger :thumbsup:



Nope Roger... my car is all 1989...

I live in Colorado at 5300ft elevation, in a dry climate. No rust here!
Although my fuel tanks did rust a bit, had to fix that a few years ago. No leaks though.

I also drive my car all 4 seasons (even in rain and snow, though snow and ice aren't fun).
My car has 74,000 miles (up to 13,000miles per year) though i have had it off the road 2 years now, being lazy.

Edited by Vulcan Grey, 06 October 2008 - 03:43 PM.

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#11 Sparky

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 04:54 PM

Roger - looking at your pic I would suggest extending the translator tie rod by a couple of mm first, as it looks to be lower than the precribed 4mm offset.

Further stuff to check - disconnect the 3 joints to the translator (you won't affect any adjustment) and check the following:

1. Gearstick movement - should be really free in all directions. If not, you may have a sticky cable. Also, does the stick sit happily in the 3/4 plane?

2. Translator rotation - should spin without any clicking/rough spots - if not, change the bearings.

3. Selector shaft - you should be able to select all gears by hand on the shaft - if not, eeek!

Also, check the joints - looks to me as if the joint to the rear of the translator is worn. Any sideways movement? Change them.

After all that, do the setup as described in the manual. It's pretty straightforward. Slap some grease on the joints.

I bought my kit from PNM, and it includes the translator bearings and all joints. My gearchange is now silky smooth. :thumbsup:
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#12 lotus4s

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 08:21 PM

If it shifts fine with the engine off but hard to shift when on, then the problem is probably hydraulics (mc or slave or clutch pushrod adjustment). If it's hard to shift with engine on or off then it's probably the linkage/cables as suggested.
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#13 DanR

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Posted 06 October 2008 - 09:40 PM

Go with the prescribed 4mm offset on the adjuster link or;

another method I use is:

Disconnect the cable rod ends and adjuster link.
With a vernier measure the total side movement of the selector shaft coming out of the gearbox.
With that shaft at mid travel adjust the link so the two arms for the rod ends are perpendicular to the gearbox.
Release the shaft so it assumes its natural 3/4 plane.
Refit the two rod ends.

The adjustment on the rodends sets the angle of the gearstick to correlate with the reverse lockout.

Your problem could also be worn inner sleeves on your cables in which case new cables are needed.
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#14 jpspeedy

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Posted 07 October 2008 - 01:40 AM

Slap some grease on the joints, that is all I did with mine and it made a big difference.

#15 Roger the Dodger

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Posted 07 October 2008 - 03:16 AM

Thanks guys, it was the bearings, real nasty, down the road to my local SKF dealer $6.00 each and some loctite, a bit sloppy on the shaft, all done too easy, too cheap! Gee I hope next time it gets hot I can change gear!
Roger :thumbsup:

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#16 Qavion

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Posted 08 October 2008 - 02:12 AM

I recall hearing that the 4mm adjustment is not applicable to all cars... can't remember which ones, though.

#17 Bibs

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Posted 09 October 2008 - 08:50 AM

It's applicable to all Renault 'boxed cars from 88 to 98 as far as I'm aware.

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#18 Roger the Dodger

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Posted 27 October 2008 - 10:20 AM

I'm back on gear linkages again! With cables detached from the translator at the rear the gear stick moves freely in all directions, therefore the cables should be OK, the translator has new bearings and spins freely, all gears select well direct from the input shaft.
Set up the translator with the prescribed 4 mm offset, though not sure how you measure that accurately? I have now wound the tie rod in 2 full turns and it is improved, still not overly impressed but it is better. So I'm going to keep winding it in a turn at a time until it's perfect or gets worse.
Has anyone any other advice, am I overlooking something?
Roger :)

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#19 Bibs

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Posted 27 October 2008 - 10:23 AM

2 people.

One on the stick and one watching the movement. Makes it a million times easier :)

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#20 andydclements

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Posted 27 October 2008 - 10:31 AM

Bibs, do we have the video footage of how to get the grease to move into the cables, by one person holding it and one person moving the stick?




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