Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
rogerch

Gear selector

28 posts in this topic

Is this the original?

Trans01.jpg

the cables look OK no signs of scorching, but gears get hard to select when everything gets hot.

I have changed the clutch master cylinder to day, but I doubt that to be the cause of a stiff gear change.

Roger :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Upgrade today to remove Google ads and support TLF.

Thanks Travis for the pic, here's a comparison for you Roger.

P4260207.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, well now I'm really embarrassed, I know the sub frame needs to come off, be sandblasted and powder coated. But, is Travis's original of later upgrade?

Roger :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You have swapped your red clutch hose for a stainless one haven't you?

That is a well known cause of clutches that are hard to operate when hot.

With regards the gear linkages.. there is a mod you can do where the main shaft out of the gearbox is swapped for a much beefier one, making the bearing in the middle redundant. I did this on mine, and it really helps with play in the gearbox.

The is also another mod you can do, where you take each cable off and mount them to the top side of the selector arm thing.. you have to fettle the gearbox subframe slightly to do this.

This was standard on the Sport 300 (I believe) and I did it to mine with no adverse affects.. The net result is that the 'throw' on the gearlever is much shorter, but with an increased effort in selecting gear.

I prefer it this way to be honest.. but then my shoulders are big enough to cope!

It's reversible as well if you don't like it.. You will have to adjust everything afterwards to make sure it will still select gears of course!

Edited by Glyn Harper

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine has the stronger shaft and shorter shift too :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As Glyn says Roger, check your clutch hose. If it's red you have red hose syndrome which is well known to make the gears hard to shift when hot. It would need to be changed for a Stainless one.

Mine has the stronger shaft and shorter shift too :thumbup:

We had heard! :thumbsup: This is a family site you know!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tis stainless hose, new slave cylinder, I rebuilt the master cylinder, but just chucked it and put a new one in today, I haven't driven since but I'm not expecting the selector to free up. Cables look in good condition, so I'm thinking it's in the rear linkage somewhere.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try moving it all from the selector shaft, both with and without the cables (maybe one cable at a time.

If it's relatively easy to move the gear selector shaft but a struggle with one or more cable then I'd say the cable is failing internally.

Edited by andydclements

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The picture showed same as my Esprit 88 turbo and check the 2 bearings in the translator assembly too !

Y.Hotta

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OK, well now I'm really embarrassed, I know the sub frame needs to come off, be sandblasted and powder coated. But, is Travis's original of later upgrade?

Roger :thumbsup:

Nope Roger... my car is all 1989...

I live in Colorado at 5300ft elevation, in a dry climate. No rust here!

Although my fuel tanks did rust a bit, had to fix that a few years ago. No leaks though.

I also drive my car all 4 seasons (even in rain and snow, though snow and ice aren't fun).

My car has 74,000 miles (up to 13,000miles per year) though i have had it off the road 2 years now, being lazy.

Edited by Vulcan Grey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Roger - looking at your pic I would suggest extending the translator tie rod by a couple of mm first, as it looks to be lower than the precribed 4mm offset.

Further stuff to check - disconnect the 3 joints to the translator (you won't affect any adjustment) and check the following:

1. Gearstick movement - should be really free in all directions. If not, you may have a sticky cable. Also, does the stick sit happily in the 3/4 plane?

2. Translator rotation - should spin without any clicking/rough spots - if not, change the bearings.

3. Selector shaft - you should be able to select all gears by hand on the shaft - if not, eeek!

Also, check the joints - looks to me as if the joint to the rear of the translator is worn. Any sideways movement? Change them.

After all that, do the setup as described in the manual. It's pretty straightforward. Slap some grease on the joints.

I bought my kit from PNM, and it includes the translator bearings and all joints. My gearchange is now silky smooth. :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it shifts fine with the engine off but hard to shift when on, then the problem is probably hydraulics (mc or slave or clutch pushrod adjustment). If it's hard to shift with engine on or off then it's probably the linkage/cables as suggested.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Go with the prescribed 4mm offset on the adjuster link or;

another method I use is:

Disconnect the cable rod ends and adjuster link.

With a vernier measure the total side movement of the selector shaft coming out of the gearbox.

With that shaft at mid travel adjust the link so the two arms for the rod ends are perpendicular to the gearbox.

Release the shaft so it assumes its natural 3/4 plane.

Refit the two rod ends.

The adjustment on the rodends sets the angle of the gearstick to correlate with the reverse lockout.

Your problem could also be worn inner sleeves on your cables in which case new cables are needed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Slap some grease on the joints, that is all I did with mine and it made a big difference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, it was the bearings, real nasty, down the road to my local SKF dealer $6.00 each and some loctite, a bit sloppy on the shaft, all done too easy, too cheap! Gee I hope next time it gets hot I can change gear!

Roger :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I recall hearing that the 4mm adjustment is not applicable to all cars... can't remember which ones, though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's applicable to all Renault 'boxed cars from 88 to 98 as far as I'm aware.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm back on gear linkages again! With cables detached from the translator at the rear the gear stick moves freely in all directions, therefore the cables should be OK, the translator has new bearings and spins freely, all gears select well direct from the input shaft.

Set up the translator with the prescribed 4 mm offset, though not sure how you measure that accurately? I have now wound the tie rod in 2 full turns and it is improved, still not overly impressed but it is better. So I'm going to keep winding it in a turn at a time until it's perfect or gets worse.

Has anyone any other advice, am I overlooking something?

Roger :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

2 people.

One on the stick and one watching the movement. Makes it a million times easier :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bibs, do we have the video footage of how to get the grease to move into the cables, by one person holding it and one person moving the stick?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi guys - so good to be back in sunny Blighty. :)

I believe Chris (wookie) has the footage. I'll ask him if he can post it.

Meanwhile, Roger, a couple more things:

First, set the 4mm as discussed. Then with the cables detached, your stick should sit naturally in the 3/4 plane. Position it in that plane approx. 7 degrees aft of vertical. In this position it should be a case of adjusting the cables to allow the joints to slide easily into the translator. As Bibs says, much easier with 2 people!

On a couple of occasions we've found it necessary to relieve either the translator body or the tie rod link to allow a good translation to reverse, as they tend to snag each other. Another way to get around this is to turn the translator 180 degrees and adjust cables as above, as this way can prevent snagging. Bibs's is done this way.

What gearshift problems are you experiencing?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm getting bored now, or should that be frustrated, angry, pi$$ed off!

OK it moves nicely through third and forth, the trouble is I can't now get first or second, well not unless lift the reverse lock.

The problem is I've played with this all day, fried the brain and now can't figure out whether to shorten or lengthen the tie rod. This 4 mm offset seems to be a starting point only, but I still can't see how to measure it accurately.

When I move the gear stick to the left and the nylon thingy that stops you getting reverse hits the stop I do not have sufficient movement on the translator to engage first.

Please help or hide the hammers! :blush:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Roger... Don't give up. There is probably something simple you are overlooking.

Are you sure you haven't crossed over the cables? Actually, they are supposed to be crossed over, but don't un-cross them.

Have you accidentally moved the shaft going into the gear box? The shaft will click if you move it in and out by hand (with everything else disconnected). I wasn't sure which was the right "detent" when I did my translator, but it's somewhere in the middle (although it seems like the detents are not evenly spaced. If the shaft is in the correct detent, then you can set the 4mm adjustment. The clamp bolt going through the translator is 8mm in diameter, so make sure the outside edge of the bolt sits directly over the centre of the ball joint.

I've done the job by myself, but it's not something I recommend. An extra person can help you determine which cable is which (I had to use mirrors and strings). Anyone can help you... They don't need to be technically-minded... just patient :blush:

Anyway, I wish you luck.

Cheers.

Ian

Edited by Qavion

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

See if my method, post 13, works for you.

While you are moving the cross shaft try and select the four gates. The end two only move forwards or backwards for reverse and fifth. The middle two gates are for 1/2 and 3/4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Re the issue of 1st and second, have you tried moving the reverse inhibitor block further to the side?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0