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Brake pads front and rear - original


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19 replies to this topic

#1 benjamincalleja

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 10:33 AM

Hey guys what is the cross reference for the original brake pads for the nov 88 uk turbo? Bendix front and back yea? Code?

You all keep talking about ebc red or green stuff but if you put grippier brake pads on without modification. Would that not make the car dive more sharply than before? And thus handle less predictably?

#2 Bibs

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 11:25 AM

EBC pads don't brake much harder, they just resist temperature making it's way to the fluid and boiling it, rendering it useless. Yes, the friction material may be better by some degree, just don't press the pedal quiet as hard.
 


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#3 andydclements

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Posted 19 March 2012 - 04:33 PM

Mintex (now what's the material? 11444 or something, that's not the part number just the material type as EBC would be Green, Yellow, Red etc.

#4 benjamincalleja

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Posted 24 March 2012 - 11:34 AM

if you go onto the Bendix website it says the fronts for my Esprit is part number DB265...have a look, do you think its right? they looks like the right shape at least? http://www.bendix.co.../catalogue/8327

#5 andydclements

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Posted 24 March 2012 - 01:06 PM

Looks right, assuming you have the Toyota sourced callipers.
Those are a single pot sliding calliper

#6 benjamincalleja

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 11:26 AM

got them, they are correct. changing pads should be easy, the instructions are in the manual and it looks like an afternoon job. any tips? aside from taking some brake fluid out first?

#7 Bibs

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 12:46 PM

It's a real easy job, you'll be fine :)
 


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#8 Sparky

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 01:33 PM

If you're doing the rears, the pistons must be wound back. Simple with the right tool, potentially awful without!
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#9 benjamincalleja

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Posted 01 April 2012 - 11:58 PM

nah just the front this time, can i do it myself?

#10 andydclements

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Posted 02 April 2012 - 04:51 PM

Assuming nothing is stuck fast and will not move/ undo you should just need one spanner, a tool to spread the old pads out/ piston back in and a bit of copper grease/ new anti squeal paste.

It's a simple job just don't take the calliper off and then try and fit new pads with the piston still set for the old pads.

#11 benjamincalleja

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 10:52 AM

.................i know nothing about brakes maybe ill take it to a mechaninc, they are after all just toyota celica front calipers/bendix rear calipers....it should be very striaghtforward right lol! i just got delivery of the actualy lotus rear pads A082J6110f (hard to find!!!! paid a mint!) and the bendix db265 front pads. looking at maybe 2 hours labour for a brake specialist...should b right.

#12 benjamincalleja

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 09:54 AM

Just a question though, the rears came with the wavy anti rattle metal insert but nOne of the other clips etc. the fronts came with just the pads alone. When I go to the mechanic can he reuse all the clips, plates/ancillaries needed to change the pads or is there some sort of extra bits kit I need to get when changing pads? If there is other bits, do I go to SJ or the factory or are they common?

#13 jonwat

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 09:59 AM

can he reuse all the clips, plates/ancillaries needed to change the pads

Yep, together with lashings of copper grease. :thumbsup:

#14 benjamincalleja

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 10:51 AM

Oh cool ok. Copper grease I presume I can buy from the auto store or he should have, cool.

#15 stevem

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Posted 09 April 2012 - 04:58 AM

Hi Ben

i just fitted Green Stuff pads to my esprit this morning, it took about 20 minutes each side including removal and refitting of the wheel. You just need a 12mm spanner and a big 'g-clamp' for pushing the piston back in before you fit the new pads. One of the easiest jobs to do on an Esprit. Just use the old clips and clean them up a bit.

Undo 1 x 12mm bolt and the caliper swings up clear of the wheel. Pop the old pads out, push back the piston, fit the new pads and swing the caliper into place and put the bolt back in. job Done.

Edited by stevem, 09 April 2012 - 04:59 AM.

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#16 Roger the Dodger

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 01:16 AM

I'd be cleaning and re-greasing the slides, checking the rubber bellows are intact, and inspecting the outer rubber seal around the piston.

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#17 benjamincalleja

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Posted 10 April 2012 - 10:34 AM

this sounds like a good excuse to pop up to your place steve, in return i can contribute some cash to your next parts order?

#18 fjmuurling

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Posted 12 April 2012 - 01:02 PM

In addition to all of the above, when pushing back the pistons make sure the reservoir is not overflowing.

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#19 benjamincalleja

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Posted 04 June 2012 - 01:02 AM

job done.....rubber pat all in good condition, was an easy job, now bedding them in slowly.....by doing the front and rears together that even made the handbrake a bit tighter which was nice but it still takes 5-6 clicks, is that too many? i know the handbrake can be adjusted but the driver side check distane was the correct 65mm and the passenger side was 60mm (should be 50mm..)

#20 andydclements

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Posted 04 June 2012 - 10:21 AM

The main thing is to have the clearance on the cable sufficient that the self-adjust can operate. As long as it holds on a decent incline, it can adjust and would slow you down in an emergency (hydraulic system fails) that should be enough.




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