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Developed by an Exige 260 owner in the Italian Dolomites. Saw this shifter and was impressed with the engineering. Metal ball and cup, roller bearings, infinitely adjustable lever throw - Zero shifter lost motion . Understand that he can produce such for the Evora, but will require different frame to suit the Evora handbrake. I will be installing one in my Elise soon. If interested, contact Manuel for more specs / pics. dolomitishifter@gmail.com Bred in the Italian Dolomiti -

There are not too many aftermarket parts available to build a real race/competition Yamaha 2ZZ-GE engine. The ones that are available are just generic parts adapted to the 2ZZ. The 2ZZ engine seems to be a great starting point in that the block is made from MMC and therefore lighter, more compact and stiffer than a "conventional" cast block. Would this be the place to post custom designed and made parts for the 2ZZ engine? If not, can this post be moved to the appropriate place? And, is there any interest in the results?

Hi I wondered if anyone can help me. I'm a relatively new Lotus Elise owner. I have a 2010 1.6 Toyota model. My reversing lights don't work, the bulbs and fuses are fine. So I have assumed the issue will be with the Reversing light switch which I understand can be prone to failure. My question is where is the switch located, is it easy to replace and where can I purchase one from? There seems to be plenty of information for the rover models but nothing I can find on the 1.6 Toyota. Any help would gratefully be received Thanks Richard.

On some Lotus special parts website or other site that I can t find anymore there was a special ignition module and the description of it was that it would give some kind of improved or more frequent ( 3x ) spark at lower rpm and then come back to standard spark frequency at higher RPM I saw a similar description of an ignition module in a 340R Japan blog ( in that case it was an MDI made by Nagai Denshi and recommended by Bodyshop Kobayashi ) but wanted to know if a similar product is available in Europe ? Thanks

Hi all I am looking to buy a 220Cup which has a number of RRR modifications to it. It has the EMU black ecu, header, sport cat and back box and intake. It also has the injectors and smaller pulley. I like to modify my cars as I master them so was wondering if anyone knows what would be ok and safe to run and do to revert the car to oem+ (as I can it where I’d refit an oem ecu, leave the header etc) Is it as simple as refit oem injectors and ecu and done or would I need to also refit other parts?

When adding a supercharger kit to a normally aspirated 2ZZ-GE engine, are there any other mods to think about due to the extra power? Or is it simply plug and play? Only thinking of road use, not track. Also, would there be an appreciable increase in car value due to the upgrade? Would you get your money back on re-sale? Thanks.

Please can someone help as for months now I have had an engine warning light coming on intermittently on my Elise SC 2008. I have had new sensors and a new ECU but now the fault code has changed to P0172. It has passed the MOT, emissions are fine, it runs fine, tried putting in a new catalytic converter, but the warning light came on with that too. Fuel pressure checked and fine, temperature sensor reading fine, live data checked and fine. It is an intermittent fault, so appears after a few short drives and there is no pattern as to when the engine management warning light will come on. It is becoming a costly investigation. Has anyone else had this problem or got a…

I’m getting this recurring code which sometimes disappears for days after clearing the code. When the codes there the car stinks of fuel and misfires when pulling off. When clearing the code everything runs perfect again. I’ve logged the voltages of 02 sensor 1 and 2 and there’s barely any difference between the two. is this definitely a dead cat ? Is there any other tests I can do? Cheers

Has anyone moved the air temp sensor from the throttle bodies to the air box ?

Not having much luck with the Elise suddenly - went out to fuel it on Monday night and all seemed fine - rained ever since so left the car out with its shower cap on until tonight, Thursday when it was nice, sunny and dry for a change. Thought I'd take the Elise out but it had different plans - car was absolutely, I mean absolutely flat like I'd left the headlights on for days (which I hadn't). Connected my decent mains battery charger and set it on low but after returning to the car and checking round it, my alternator seemed slightly warm. I've never noticed this before on a car but then maybe haven't felt the alternator when the battery was on charge - I jus…

Optimate LFP 4s 5A Battery Conditioner came with the car (Exige 2016 Club Racer) - nicely wired in. On connecting lots of lamps flash on boot-up then just sits with the on Green LED - the Maintenance LED remains extinguished - is this correct? You Tube etc not providing me with the answers I need!! Many thanks

Feeling stupid just now - showing someone my car at the weekend and overall they seemed impressed having never seen a Lotus up close. However, when digging around the engine bay they queried what was missing from the left hand side of the engine, at the point where I can see the camshaft seals. I'd never really thought about it before but the guy pointed out there must be something missing as there were clearly two tapped bolt holes and what looks like a flat, machined gasket face. I just said quite innocently that it's always been like this but if I'm honest, I can't remember and I'm now worried if I'm missing a cover. Any reassurance would be welcome as the car run…

My 1997 Elise S1 fails the MOT emissions every year and it has just failed again today (16 June 2022). Every year I buy a new cat for around £145 and have done since 2016 when after nineteen years the original and reliable cat which never failed sadly expired. I clocked up 1,608 miles since the last MOT in June 2021. Can anyone recommend a decent cat – and where to buy it - that lasts more than a year? Many thanks, Paul

Coolant is leaking from my Elise S1, especially under pressure. I can see the dripping under the offside rear wheel arch (image attached). Oil seems fine (no discolouration), there are no misfires, smoke from the exhaust or lack of acceleration. I can fill the header tank to the maximum, drive the car and 30 minutes later it is below the minimum level. If I continue to drive then the coolant disappears altogether so I’m loath to use the car. The coolant header tank and cap are new as of July 2021. The radiator and re-conditioned engine were new in 2016. For what it’s worth, I’ve wrapped kitchen towel round pipes and joints for tell-tale signs of coloured coola…

Having issues with my 2001 k series elise. First of all I had a engine light on the dash with a P0420 code fault I was told this indicated the downstream lambda sensor so took this off and cleaned and it worked for a while. Then came back up so decided to change the sensor, now I am getting both a P0420 and a P0141 fault code as well. I tried changing the sensor back but this is still the same, wondering if anyone could help what it could be, is the voltage sent from a fuse somewhere? Any help would be appreciated.

I had a feeling my last drive the rev limitter jumps in at 6.5k now instead of 8k, is there some kind of rev emergency mechanic? Did I break something? It was a hot day though, miss shifted one time, maybe I over did my engine... Accelerating before the 6500k It really doesn't feel like the engine was struggling... reaching 6500k it totally choked... The red gear change light also goes on at 6500k.

My mechanic has informed me that unfortunately the bolt connecting the alternator bracket to the engine block has snapped and part of the bolt is now stuck within the engine block (bolt number 11 on the image). He has proposed instructing a specialist company to drill out the bolt which is inside the engine block, but in order to provide access so they can drill it out they need to have the proper clearance meaning that the engine would have to come out. And I understand that for the engine to come out the rear clamshell needs to be taken off. This is of course quite a big job for a snapped bolt. If anyone has any suggestions or recommendations to help speed up …

What's the best tune/ecu for the 250 cup? Planning to go for 2bular 4-1 manifold with test pipe...

Hi All, I'm a new Elise 111R Sportsracer MY06 owner from Germany. Unfortunately this great car is starting to give me a headache. Probably you're more experienced with this engine than I am. This is what happens every single cold start: - Idle is just fine. - If you rapidly push the pedal the engine almost dies if you dont get your foot off immediately - If you keep on pushing it dies - If you barely touch it and push it down very very carfully it'll rev like nothing happened, but will fail again when kicking it rapidly. - After a couple of seconds on a higher rev it's working okay until you apply some load by moving the car.…

Having issues with my 2001 lotus Elise s2 k series overheating. Took it out the other day drove fine for about an hour there then fine on the way back for another hour but then when getting back the temperature would shoot up and it would say the fuel dropped down also but then shoot back down and say the fuel was back up again. I stopped when it got hot and could hear the coolant bubbling away but then it was running okay again with no issues overheating at all. Coolant doesn't look good in the bottle and looks like it was ready to blow but then also oil looks like it's milky. Would this be pointing towards the head gasket?

The AA confirmed that an expensive A111E6091S starter motor fitted on the 20th May 2020 by B&C is dead. It receives voltage from the battery but will not turn over. The car was finally started with a push-start. I would like to buy the Rover K-Series SAIC Starter Motor which is advertised on Elise Parts as being suitable for my S1 Elise (1997) but would like to check first that it is 1.4 kw and suitable. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Greetings, I am looking for the batch factory injectors ellipse 440cc anything send me info to my email joelvargas25.jv@gmail.com

Hi all. I've had supercharged cars before and the boost was "controlled" by a butterfly on the throttle body that closed at a preset throttle position, forcing boost into the inlet manifold. This meant that you could manage boost with your right foot. I'm interested what the set up is on the 220/240 Sports. The supercharger will make boost all the time so I guess there's something allowing it to re-circulate but it's very difficult to find details online so if anyone knows and can give me a clue I would appreciate it.

Where is everyone getting their new alternators nowadays? I was looking to Euro Car Parts but they don't seem to have any for the K Series. Mechanic is quoting me 220 GBP for either Delco Remy or Lucas alternator. I'm seeing the OEM alternator online for the same price at Elise parts. Not sure which one to go for now, any advise? A different mechanic is suggesting I buy this one from ebay? Assume this will be a lower quality part / subject to an early failure? Is the heat shield a well-worth upgrade? Is the heat that extreme near the alternator that the base heat shield can't protect it?

Hi, I picked up an EliseParts Toyota ECU a while back and I'm having a look at getting it set up as a bit of a winter project. I'm more familiar with programming the Emerald K3 ECU on my Caterham so I'm looking for a few pointers to help with learning the idiosyncrasies of a GEMS ECU. The ECU came with a calibration file set up for an Exige with a big supercharger, I've contacted EP and they managed to find what they think is a reasonably standard N/A Elise file. I've tried running the Exige file and the engine starts and idles, but with heavy over-fuelling (as expected). The Elise file also just about starts the engine but barely idles as the fuel map is under…