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So, a hose goes from the grill by the filler pipe to the top of the wheelarch, the air the reappears through the side of the wheelarch and is piped to the inlet to the filter. Surely all that isn't necessary for a standard road car? The real reason I'm asking is that its like trying to fi a big ship into a small bottle, there is barely room for one hose, let alone two....... Any thoughts? Alan

Turbo compressor performance improvement can be achieved by introducing of the air whirl motion in the turbo inlet (trunking) duct. Air at the compressor inlet, if spun, can enhance compressor performance. So called positive pre-whirl occurs when intake air flow is rotated in the same direction as compressor wheel rotation, and negative pre-whirl is opposite. At low engine speeds, the compressor impeller speed is too high in relation to the air flow velocity, so the incidence angle of the blade tip is away from the design point. Adding pre-whirl in the rotational direction of the impeller (positive pre-whirl) can help to improve the incidence angle and the inlet M…

I know the s4 has this feature but is it on other esprits too?

Hi Guys, I'm just letting you know there will be another chance to buy the Alunox Manifold for the Esprit Turbo which I will pitch soon in the sponsors section. This time it will be a combined group buy with another manifold for the G cars which has just been released . They share common components and there has been a development in CNC machining so we can go for greater numbers and help bring the price down. I will post full details and prices soon. Mark

OK just spend 4 hrs taking the chargecooler pump off - so much fun !! Pump spins but the vanes dont which is why I have no cooling ! Got an electric pump already that was destined for the GT2 but curious to see how people have mounted theirs, cheers !

I have a very well sorted and maintained S4s (Thank you Bruce Tatusko!). I have only put about 200 miles on it since purchase. It runs really well and had no issues. I have been slowly pushing the car harder as I get used to it. On my interstate high speed drive yesterday I think something changed. On any throttle position it wont build boost past about .5 bar. The car has a red race chip which should allow it to hit 1.25 bar I've been told. When it gets to right below .5 bar there I hear a loud whooshing which I am sure is excess pressurized intake air being blown out, and the boost falls to 0. Nothing else seems out of whack. The car runs fantastically but I want…

Does anyone know what the resistance should be of the MAT sensor when cold? Car is a 1991 turbo se.

I'd like to clarify this issue once for all. Comparing corrugated (dryer) hose with smooth duct of the same diameter, the latter creates less flow restriction. See results here: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=111369 Scroll down to the heading title "Phase 3" and you see the results. Explanation of the empirical results may be explained in the following manner: Head Loss in a Pipe Overall head loss in a pipe is affected by a number of factors which include the viscosity of the fluid, the size of the internal pipe diameter, the internal roughness of the inner surface of the pipe, the change in elevation between the ends of the pipe and the length…

Hi all, I have an issue with coolant pressurising in the expansion tank located in the left hand side of the boot. The PO replaced the chargecooler pump impeller, chargecooler/AC condenser, A/C condenser, A/C compressor and A/C belt just before I bought the car in November last year. When I drive the car 10 to 15 miles the water starts to pour out of the expansion tank overflow pipe under pressure. The temperature gauge reads normal so car is not overheating. Fans kick in when they’re supposed to. I have changed the CC tank cap as well as the expansion tank cap but problem still occurs. When the car cools down, the coolant drops in the CC header tank an…

After doing some research on this forum, YouTube and every other place I can think of I've come to the conclusion that a sports cat and either a Quicksilver silenced system PNM or Larini system will be the best solution to add some aural drama to the GT3 I'm going to be picking up on Sunday. The car in question already has the Alunox manifold fitted. From what I can make out any one of these three systems should give me a nice bark and growl without giving me a headache........but which one to choose?? Shaun

So I had just finished installing my new electric chargecooler pump from PNM and started topping it up with water, only to hear the sound of water splashing on the floor at the front of the car. Fearing the worst of a leaking radiator I had a look to see if I could see the actual leak, which to be fair is quite difficult with the radiators all packaged together like they are. However, I found the leak and it isn't the radiator thankfully(?) Quite hard to see due to the camera's autofocus, but look closer.... Bloody mice have chewed through the hose! I've noticed the presence of mice in other places but it's been mostly foam they've gone fo…

My friendly MOT man is currently out of action for the forseeable so Im going to have to use another garage for my MOT, who may not be sympathetic to be having deleted the cat on my GT3. The original disintigrated may years ago, so I need a sports Cat except nowhere seems to have stock, tried the usual suspects, SJ, SouthWest, PNM, but all no stock with no due date. Does anyone know where I can get one or has one to sell?

Wanted to replace my rear cam end oil seals, o-rings ordered from SJS. Easy job apparently unless you have an Alunox exhaust manifold whereupon you have to remove the rod that links to the exhaust manifold to the heat shield plate: Buggered if I could remove the lower bolt. Insufficient tools + weak arms. Wanted to remove this end (left), top of support rod (right): Question: as and when I can get that rod off, is it really required subsequently? What is the design intent of linking the top of the exhaust manifold with the cam end?

This fitting is on the forward end of the fuel rail, however it doesn't appear in any parts manual. The fuel rail feed pipe screws into the end of it. It can be rotated, and squeaks whilst doing so, so it must be in some kind of rubber sleeve, or the like. The rail has “MADE IN USA AC” and 17089074 2365 engraved on it, but I couldn’t find any other info. on the fitting. Very odd. Anyone had one apart before?

Alunox Manifold with EFR 6258-G Twin scroll Turbo upgrade for the 4-cylinder Lotus Esprit After some research into different turbo upgrades available on the market, I decided to go with the BorgWarner EFR 6258-G Twin Scroll unit supplied by Van Der Lee Turbo systems (Jaap), to replace the Esprit’s single scroll turbo charger. One of the biggest limitations of most factory single-scroll turbo system is the restrictive nature of its log or compact unequal-length exhaust manifold. The design characteristics of both Manifold and Turbo were honed with collaboration between both Van Der Lee Turbo systems and Alunox engineers. Bringing the two companies together allowed me …

Hunting down the usual suspects for fuel smell in the cabin. The pipe that runs over the top of the rear window and both tanks were replaced previously and look to all be sound. I replaced the gearstick gator recently as well. Found a very small hole in the short connecting pipe that links the cannister outlet to the black pipe going to the inlet manifold which I'll replace. (A036L0085V - can anyone recommend an equivalent pipe?). Couldn't find any other holes in all the other pipes. The air feed line into the charcoal canister, that allows fresh air to be induced into it, currently terminates in the body near where the roll over valve is. Assuming that the char…

Afternoon all, Has anyone had any success finding alternative fuel lines (they look to be Nylon) that feed the fuel rail?? I was looking at SJ’s and can’t find them so believe that at least some may now be obsolete??? They certainly seem to be bent in some funny shapes and look to be heat shrunk onto the respective connectors. Has anyone tried to replicate these at all? cheers Mark

Never replaced injectors before, didn't even know what they looked like, but thanks to various threads on TLF I managed, to my surprise, to successfully replace the injectors and the fuel filter whilst I was at it. Couple of things to remember for next time: remember to put the 15A fuel pump fuse back in and reset the fuel cut off switch before attempting to restart her. It will save on swearing and the use of nasty words.

Hello Everyone, I now have an ultrasonic cleaner and will probably clean my injectors, but then I will have to change the o-ring seals and filters. I know the o-ring seals are available from SJS (for instance) but where can I find the filters? Any known reference or size? Basically I would need that sort of rebuild kit, but for our 4+2 injectors set https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Rochester-Fuel-Injector-Rebuild-Repair-Kit-for-Chevy-GM-Oring-Seals-Filter-6-Cyl/173383453051 or https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rochester-Chevy-GM-Fuel-Injector-Rebuild-Repair-Kit-Oring-Seals-Filter-6-Cyl/122967528422 (maybe these sets are actually suitable?) Thanks in advance!

I ran into a problem with the two chargecooler hard pipes that run under the nearside oil cooler duct on my car that I could do with some opinions/help on. When I removed my pipes during the rebuild I noticed that one of the two pipes had several potential pin holes in it. I don't know if they were actually causing leaks but as a precaution I bought a replacement from one of the usual suppliers. Having tried to fit it last weekend I discovered that one of the two pipes was too long by about 75mm, by comparison to the pipes I removed from the car. New on the left, original on the right. Close up of the disparity in length of the pipe in question …

What's the difference between turbo part numbers 465133-3 and 465133-4? I ask because I wanted a turbo for my S4s, and the supplier sent me the former, which I believe is different from the latter. I think the -3 is the S4, and the -4 is the S4s. But as the most famous turbo supplier in the country appears not to know the difference, I thought I'd ask the forum members. If the difference is solely the compressor wheel, that's fine, I can tell the aforementioned specialists how to supply the correct turbo.

Hoping that you're all staying safe and well and not too bored. With time on my hands, I decided to apply the dellorto DHLA45 carb refurb kit that's been on my garage shelf for several months. Although I was extremely methodical and content that I did everthing perfectly, the car won't start, so I'm now suffering an indirect effect of the current lockdown having attempted a job that I would have normally left to someone more capable. Perhaps I've tightened down something that should be open or perhaps I have a fuel air block? I closed and then opened the mixture screws 6 half turns, and then closed completely (although not at first) the air bleed screw…

Hi All, Just had my 1990 Esprit Turbo SE in for it's MOT and the CO achieved, during the emissions test, was 1.2% at idle. At a fast idle of 2300rpm it was 0.68%. I was expecting it to me nearer the 3.5% limit, at idle, considering the usual rich running nature of these cars. Does anyone think this is a little lean? I'd be interested in CO data for other de-cat SE's . Andy.

Can anybody give me description of how the fuel system would be set up on an '89 Esprit with the GM MPFI system? Specifically how the two tanks are connected and where the fuel level sender is located? I've already figured out that the fuel pump is in the RH tank (because I can hear it.) Here's the back story: I bought an Esprit that has probably been mostly sitting for the last 5 years or so. The owner before me only had it about 6 months and never even titled it in his own name, although I think he put a couple hundred miles on it. I've been driving it around and probably put another few hundred miles on it in the last 6 months. There were no issues for me ot…

For those that have fitted the Alunox manifold to their Esprits, did you retain the original locking plates on the studs at either end? I had a bit of a look on the forums but can seem to find any close-up photos on anyone's project threads to give me a steer. The nuts Alunox supplied for the turbo end have a flange and a serrated face so the locking plates there can't/don't look like they need be reused with those nuts. On the head end the supplied nuts appear to have some kind of locking tab built into them so again would suggest the locking plates aren't required. That said I had aerotight nuts and the locking plates on the old manifold, which seems overkill.…