As written in title, I found some of the most rare factory fitted Eclat wheels.
The problem was, the seller knew that too!
Even though I had to buy them - and paid what he was asking for :huh:
And now I' m able to give some new knowlege about these wheels...
I hope these pictures will help to answer your question...
With best regards
In an other step I tried to fresh up all my light lenses.
I tried some products and found finally a good one, but there is still a huge amount of work needed.
A comparison before and after...
the final result!
Some more pictures to show, how it's going on... ("click" for bigger pictures)
some ready gearbox parts
front hubs reinstalled
reassembling of rear brakes
drum brakes on chassis
front part of chassis
installing the fuel lines through th
I asked Loctite Germany (Henkel) for the correct products to use on the 907 engine, because the products mentioned in the manual are not available anymore.
Maybe useful for some others too...
Loctite RC 40 = Loctite Retaining Compound 40
is now Loctite 648
Loctite RC 35 = Loctite Retaining Compound 35
is now Loctite 638
Loctite AV =
today called Loctite 603
Loctite Primer T
is now Loctite 7471
As you see I had two fans installed (like all US cars, because of the closed front body).
So I decided to get only one of them overhauled.
I took everything apart and figured out how to clean and treat them to keep the original look.
The internals I cleaned and oiled only, and the shaft got painted with some zinc color.
All other parts were sandblasted.
[color=rgb(0,128,0)][size=5][font=arial][b]!!! only for enthusiasts !!![/b][/font][/size][/color]
Because I'm always after original documents for my cars (and usually couldn't find them somewhere in the Web) - I decided to offer you, what I have...
[attachment=24912:Eclat_Leaflet_(75).pdf] (source lotuspoint)
[attachment=24931:Eclat_Leaflet_(76).pdf] (source lotuspoint)
[attachment=24898:LOTUS_UK_Dealers_(76).pdf] (source lotuspoint)
Another step was overhauling the rear differential. Our Eclat diff is a Salisbury 7HA so if you need any spare parts look for that. It was used in many british cars.
Even though the oil smelled like hot fried cooking oil, the interior was still looking good.
For this time I was not in the mood to do the internal revision by my own. So I brought everything to a specialist nearby and when emptied
One of the more difficult things was the overhaul of the steering rack.
I still had the first original Burman-SA steering rack built in. The color was identifiable under the rack bushings as a Ford-blue (RAL 5001). The rack is interchangeable with Ford Capri racks. Later ones were built by Ford or TRW but then painted in black (You need that one with the LONG pinion shaft).
After dismantling I used a small grinder to remove
Because I like to upgrade my US Sprint (like a 520) to a EU 521 I had to find a 5 speed Gearbox.
After a post here in the Forum, 'Tocus' was writing me an Email, that he stored what I'm looking for.
I asked for some more details and he answered quickly. So we made this deal.
But how to get the Parts to Switzerland? I won't double the price just to become it shipped to Switzerland, so I decided to drive to the Netherlands to collect the parts in Person.
I won't screw crooked and corroded brake lines on my restored frame. They have to be straight and shiny as original.
Here you can see the result of a self straightened brake line.
I found an instruction on a webpage of how to build a little straightener...
You will need:
- 5 small rope pulleys (Dia ~30 or 40mm)
- 1 L-shaped iron (∼40cm in length)
- 5 smaller bolts, locknuts and washer as axle for the pulleys
- 2 bigger bolts, locknuts and washers to st
I pondered a while whether this chassis is worth to be restored or not... I was not sure but I decided to do it!
I checked the dimensions, to know if the geometry is still in the normal range. (Al the datas are given in the workshop manual.)
Even tough the lower front section needed some attention. I decided to change a deformed shee
I'll skip some chapters of dismantling the car.
I said the car should become "better than new" I'll show you what I mean.
Front spring as they were.
I got all parts sandblasted by my own. I used a quite coarse aluminum oxide to blast rust and old paintings away.
After blasting I got them powder coated in RAL 9005 (black with silk gloss). Now they will last
Because engine and carburetors are totally different in U.S. and in european version, I bought a second engine.
The Idea is to strip both engines and then to use the outer parts form the U.S. engine with the internal parts of the european one. Simply for keeping the "matching numbers".
By my knowledge of today I wouldn't buy this engine again. It came with the wrong gearbox on (4 speed instead of 5) and the Lucas 23D
It was rather clear, that the car needs to bee totally dismantled. I thought I begin at the rear end... I spent one day dismantling the boot and the rear located fuel installations.
The S.U. fuel pump. In the US version from 1976 was already a catch tank and a charcoal canister fitted (above pump). I won't reuse these. Then I couldn't find out where the fuel filter between the tank and the pump was gone. I found one alongside of the gearbox, screwed on the cha
[b][I'm not an native english speaker - if you find any mistakes - PLEASE IGNORE !!!] [/b]
I saw a nice LHD Eclat on Ebay-Germany for a bargain, but it was a US re-imported Eclat.
Built in 76 No 202E and painted in "ugly-red".
The Idea is to get that car back on the road - restored in a REALLY "better than new" condition. And the most ambitious target is, to convert the Eclat fully to european standard.
I know already that the costs will overcome its future worth, - but shit happens!