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  1. Past hour
  2. Seems the focus is on current cars, however I believe it’s the classic’s that are worth buying, The market is often looking for new trends.
  3. Today
  4. I'd use a proper tensioner tool and relegate all worries to the back of my mind. No guess work.
  5. Some steady progress on getting the Jag diff mounted into the chassis this week. I've made a top plate from 3mm steel and managed to bolt the diff into position to check prop alignment etc. I've cut away just enough chassis to get it into position but will need to remove more to allow room for the inboard discs and calipers. Before I do this I intend to strengthen the chassis by welding in 1" box section along the length of the rear section then add several brace pieces to triangulate it all. Once happy with the top I'll flip the chassis to make a frame to tie the original mounting points into the base of the Jag diff. Unfortunately there wasn't really a way to rubber / poly mount the diff so the whole thing will be solidly mounted, as it is in my kit car and many TVRs apparently.
  6. One of the easiest wheel bearing jobs i've ever done. blocked the wheels from moving, in gear and handbrake on, 200 ft lbs.
  7. People are usually guarded with advice when it comes to these issues since there are many variables (type of belt, ambient temp, condition of tensioner etc). For me, If it flutters, I’d tighten it. I think every belt stretches to some degree after initial install. I’d go a little at the time (1/4 - 1/2 turn for example) measure the frequency and document it. You’ll probably notice that the flutter will move up the rpm range with each tightening itineration until it disappears. If it whines when the engine is at operating temp, you’re too far and you can roll it back. If you do this systematically and in small steps, you’ll be safe.
  8. I wrote my own 3 page contract, which I would send out to interested people. Seemed to minimise wannabes. First visit was always 'look only' and I'd take them for a test drive. Gather their details and run some google searches. Second visit (if still interested) was their test drive. But in the end gave it to Richmonds here in Adelaide. Told them the price I wanted and they handled the rest. All to easy. They put four new tyres on, replaced the rear struts and fixed a few niggles - all at their own cost. CONTRACT FOR SELLING CAR 2018.pdf
  9. The C8 is already a success by any measure but if it will keep Lotus from selling a few hundred Evoras here is another question. I'd have to say it didn't help but Lotus' structure here is the bigger problem. Until that is fixed it's academic and we will remain a cult living in the wilderness. Would I buy a C8? It depends. Buying today I couldn't buy a GT for Corvette money. Two years ago, the 400 and a well specified C7 cost about the same (Vette was still a bit less, but only a bit). The Evora could be justified as similar money to the C7 you'd actually want. Today, a well specified GT lists for $40K more than a high spec C8. This is a tough pill to swallow.
  10. People are usually guarded with advice when it comes to these issues since there are many variables (type of belt, ambient temp, condition of tensioner etc). For me, If it flutters, I’d tighten it. I think every belt stretches to some degree after initial install. I’d go a little at the time (1/4 - 1/2 turn for example) measure the frequency and document it. You’ll probably notice that the flutter will move up the rpm range with each tightening itineration until it disappears. If it whines when the engine is at operating temp, you’re too far and you can roll it back. If you do this systematically and in small steps, you’ll be safe.
  11. $31,991.00 End Date: Thursday Jan-9-2020 16:12:39 PST Buy It Now for only: $31,991.00 Buy It Now | Add to watch list Click to view item
  12. I had to undo the two oil coolers on my SE, and no matter what I tried, they wouldn't. So deliberately broke off the aluminium studs from the oil coolers, and was basically left at where you are now. I bought two new original oil coolers, added some wera high temp thread antiseize on the threads, and then I bought two jars of glass in the local supermarket. I also bought 1 bottle of caustic soda in pearl form, and made a fairly heavy solution into the now empty and cleaned glass jars. Beware: it matters if you add destilled water on to the caustic soda or the opposite. In any case, be very carefull! Then slowly lowered the two oil lines with it's rusty steel fittings with the bonus of aluminium threads inside, into the jars. 10 to 12 minutes later they were totally as new. No trace of any aluminium , no rust. all shiny and ready to be cleaned thoroughly. I mean that. But the downside was that I was doing all this inside my garage, albeit with a large open gate. Despite my equipment, not enough ventilation, and I felt a strong alkaline taste in my mouth, throat and lungs. Quickly drove like a maniac to the emergency room and immediately got a thorough treatment and several hours of them monitoring my blood, lungs, respiration etc. Fortunately I got free of any damage. So in the end no harm was done, in my case. But that is unfortunately not always tthe case, as many prople use this cheap chemical which can be bought at many shops, to clean their drain in the kitchen or bathroom. Do not feel tempted to make a strong solution. This caustic soda in a strong solution, east human tissue and bones non-stoppable for up to 72 hours, the doctor told me, looking really worried on my behalf and after having called the national poison tel. line for extra advice They also told me that some dictators use this stuff to dissolve human remains, as well as being used for left overs from a slaughterhouse in some cases, despite being illegal. Look, I cannot warn you enough. It's serious alkaline stuff. You need thick special suit, chemical mask, chemical gloves, eye protection, the lot. And it works perfectly. It'll cost you a fiver, done correctly. If not, it may cost you your life, having destroyed lungs. Would I do it again? yes, done the right way. Choice is yours. You are now warned. Cheers, Jacques ps: I wouldn't use a screw clamp if I could avoid it.
  13. Yesterday
  14. Lovely We used to live on Bulls Hill, Walford, just outside Ross. I loved to drive down to Tintern and back.
  15. There will be a little stretch on initial use, but should not be an issue with needing to recheck belt tension. I have always used a Facom belt tool and never had an issue.
  16. Commander Ally Pollard used to own an Elan Sprint. Her second in command found this out and thought it would be a suitable surprise for her to be driven from the Ship as she exited the gang plank for her final time immediately after the ceremony to pass command to the incoming Captain before finishing at the Officers mess (we managed to include a 20 minute blast in there too) We were then given a tour of the Warship that arrived back from Canada last Friday from another officer. Extremely interesting day. Super tight security but I guess it is a nuclear site.
  17. While the push fit might be perfectly fit for purpose, if there is another way that gives you more peace of mind I wouldn't argue against it. BTW your car looks to be in very good condition from the photos, very clean underneath. I am more than a little bit green with envy. cheers -Chris
  18. FYI but most, if not all, LCD screens will be invisible with polarised sunglasses, regardless of the sunlight. Change your ‘glasses.
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