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  1. Past hour
  2. Awesome. I assume there's nothing funky going on and I can reconnect the seatbelt warning light without the seat in place?
  3. Just been for a half day-out in our old Ferrari Mondial T cabrio with the family. Top-down, it was all very nice and no need to break the speed limit for thrills. It’s on 45k miles now, so there’s no real depreciation issues with adding some miles. We won’t keep it forever, but it’s a bit of family fun in the classic car mould. Some guy even offered to swap his 15 year old Mondeo for it!
  4. Today
  5. Hi our not far from me if your in Hutton, i havea turbo, I think I'm correct in saying the pistons are different to cope with temp. I'm sure someone with more knowledge will be along. Your probably correct in putting a different lump in, but bear in mind that is a carb turbo unit, if you want to go EFi your going to need the ECU etc....
  6. Tat would be a very detailed CAD design. Perhaps specify which dimensions you need, or the purpose so that somebody can supply the ones necessary.
  7. Tony, I am facing this same problem with leather retrim right now. Did you use washers behing the clips, or did you solve the problem in some other way? -Jani
  8. As per original reply, Domestic = UK USA= Federal
  9. Did these have a purge pump to vent fuel laden air from the filter box like on later cars. A dead pump ( an original one would be by now) would make a hot start problematic however once running it wouldnt have then just died?
  10. Fuel pump playing up, diaphragm leaking internally maybe? Tappets will close as the valves get hotter so if they're too tight you'll loose compression. Otherwise I think you've covered everything. Good luck
  11. I own 1982 Lotus Esprit S3 N/A which runs very poorly when hot. The symptoms are as follows: 1) Starts from cold relatively easily and picks up well on the throttle with no flat spots. 2) Continues to run well up to temperature and also when the fans cut in, albeit as the temperature rises the idle drops from 1000 revs to about 850 revs. 3) Turn the engine off and leave it for 5 to 10 minutes and it is then difficult to restart, runs poorly and eventually dies. And so something is breaking down in some way due to heat. I have checked and or replaced the following: a) New speak plugs. b) New distributor rotor arm. c) New electronic ignition module (Accuspark). d) Distributor cap, HT leads and plug caps are less than two years old during which time the car has covered less than 2000 miles. e) New ignition coil and ballast resistor. f) New inlet manifold gasket. g) Carburettors ultrasonically cleaned. h) Carburettors balanced with Morgan Carbtune. i) Compression checked 170 psi for each cylinder +\- a couple of psi across the four cylinders and so I do not think that the engine has worn piston rings, cylinder bores or a blown head gasket (no “mayonnaise” in the oil filler cap). j) Vacuum hoses from the inlet manifold do not seem to be leaking. k) New fuel filter. So, I have now run out of ideas. Question, .... what have I missed? Bob Silk
  12. When you say domestic, is that UK or USA domestic ???
  13. I have been driving my Excel this weekend a bit more (300km) and found some new oddities. My popup headlights seemd to drop down a bit more due to windpressure when driving on the highway with the lamps down. when I stopped to fill up they where apriximately 1cm to low in the front and the back was a bit high. Everything returned to normal when I poped the lamps up and back down. Am I missing a restrictor of some sort or what is wrong?
  14. Sorry I can't make this month Do we ever remember to use the meters?
  15. I own a 1982 S3 N/A which runs very poorly when hot. The symptoms are as follows: 1) Starts from cold relatively easily and picks up well on the throttle with no flat spots. 2) Continues to run well up to temperature and also when the fans cut in, albeit as the temperature rises the idle drops from 1000 revs to about 850 revs. 3) Turn the engine off and leave it for 5 to 10 minutes and it is then difficult to restart, runs poorly and eventually dies. And so something is breaking down in some way due to heat. I have checked and or replaced the following: a) New speak plugs. b) New distributor rotor arm. c) New electronic ignition module (Accuspark). d) Distributor cap, HT leads and plug caps are less than two years old during which time the car has covered less than 2000 miles. e) New ignition coil and ballast resistor. f) New inlet manifold gasket. g) Carburettors ultrasonically cleaned. h) Carburettors balanced with Morgan Carbtune. i) Compression checked 170 psi for each cylinder +\- a couple of psi across the four cylinders and so I do not think that the engine has worn piston rings, cylinder bores or a blown head gasket (no “mayonnaise” in the oil filler cap). j) Vacuum hoses from the inlet manifold do not seem to be leaking. k) New fuel filter. So, I have run out of ideas! Question - what have I missed? Bob Silk 3 deleted. Ctrl + Z to Undo.
  16. Straightforward. 4 bolts. when you lift the seat you will see the heated seat and the seatbelt warning light connectors. Just unplug them, remember which goes back where. Put the seat bolts back in the sliding nuts to stop them dissapearing. DO NOT turn the ignition on until the seat is reconnected to the seatbelt warning light. It is said that the warning light will need a dealer reset if you turn the ignition on with the connector unplugged. I haven't tested this though.
  17. I'm looking to remove the passenger seat, as the side bolster has very slightly started to peel away from the base. It's nothing major, but I want to get it sorted before it gets worse, it spoils what is otherwise a perfect interior. I can't find any guides about removing the seats (mine also has heated elements). Other than being careful to disconnect that first, is there anything else to be aware of? I'm hoping that, due to the lack of info, it's fairly straight forward?
  18. Never saw this when you first posted Wil. That's what we like to see. Up at 4:30 and can't sleep. Merde. What to do? Warm milk and try to go back to bed? Naaaahhhhhh. Get dressed and take the Exige out!
  19. The best one though is the numberplate lights for the S1 Elise, which you can't even see, which were Rolls Royce parts - surely there were cheaper / less exotic possibilities !
  20. I'm looking for previous posts or advice from anyone who has converted their normally aspirated X180 to turbo charged. It must be that this has been done before so I'm interested to know the options for moderate turbo boost (nothing extreme) and therefore greater reliability. Could it be a DIY with engine out? Buy refurbished turbo engine and swap out (I guess several thousand for this less whatever you get for old plant)? Cost and recommendation if outsourced to a specialist? Buy another Esprit turbo and sell or trade in your own N/A? It seems like some of the turbo kits would work but I'm guessing a host of other components and complication would be involved. My budget is up to £5,000 would that be enough?
  21. i just looked at mine @ 29k and look like new! perhaps i need to drive it harder
  22. Not necessarily talking about the same kit but I found this in a blog on their website... xshiftgearboxes For your great interest we are returning to the production of the Subaru R4+ sequential gearbox. This gearbox is capable of 800NM torque and shares many similar attributes as the +Plus gear box, but with a lower price! Kit pricing starts at $9499.99 USD and can have billet transfer gears and racing front differential added in at additional cost. Feel free to contact any of our dealers for additional info!
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