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  1. 23 points
    A sheared stud is something you are very likely to come across during restorations . Getting them out can be a pain , in a lot of cases leading the the need to Helicoil repair the thread.. When this work is done with an engine still fitted the results are to say the least basic.. This is due to the space constraints. As an engine builder i have seen the results of these, oh dear some are not nice. This does not need to be the case , a little preparation time and a simple DIY jig can make the job so much easier with professional results. The same principal can be used to set up Helicoil insertion on the correct alignment. Helicoils that have been drilled and inserted out of square or proper alignment , create so many issues and are my biggest head ache to rectify. Hopefully the following info will help you get quality DIY results without the hassle .. This is what we have all seen at one time or another.. On this occasion , inlet manifold center stud. As it turns out i do not have a jig made for this position ( not so common to shear) , So lets make one .. I always tend to use pieces of 10mm thick alloy plate , If you don't have any in your garage they are easily found at your local metal recycle center in the alloy scrap bins.. cost is pennies.. First job is to mark out accurately. use calipers and a coat of black aerosol paint if not in possession of marking blue. Next making sure the plate is flat and 90 degrees to the vertical , using drill press or in my case mill head, drill through pilot holes then in this case 8mm drill .. NB. The manifold will be drilled 8.5mm clearance , we want our holes to be quite tight on the bolt , no wiggle room , this will help the job be more accurate. Next job is to drill the hole relating to the sheared stud at the tapping size for thread on your chosen guide. In this case I have used M10. If you are going for Hilicoil M12 is better. Set the tap up in the mill head / drill press , use this method to insure your thread will be perfectly square... this is very important , If your thread is just slightly angled the job will go wrong. The next step is to use , in this case a M10 allen cap bolts , Purchase several, You may need to go to local machine shop for the next process to be accurate , Using a lathe, drill down the center of the bolts with different size drills, I use 2.5mm .. 4mm .. 5.5mm and 6.5mm for an M8 stud.. If repairing stripped thread, you just go up to the size of the Helicoil drill ... You will then have 4 or 5 allen bolts core drilled in different sizes.. That is it Jig is made.. To set up , clean the face on the area to be repaired , if like in this case the head of the stud is proud , using small file flatten the face , then pin punch the center. Put jig in place , bolting down with two other holes, if you have done this carefully the M10 tapped hole will align perfect over the sheared stud. ( Make sure this is the case before going onto the next step.. ) Now fit in position the first bolt with the smallest core hole . Screw down till it lightly buts up against the stud face the lock of with a nut. Next thing to do is measure the depth of an adjacent hole to the stud you will be drilling. Add this figure to the height of the jig from the head face . This will give you a safe drilling depth without damaging the head by accidentally drilling through into water jacket or oil gallery. Believe me this has been done !!! Set you drill in the chuck to this height , or put tape on drill bit indicating safe depth. Apply suitable cutting fluid and proceed to drill . Do this in stages , cleaning out swarf and adding more cutting fluid.. If your stud does not bottom out in the hole you will feel the drill free up as it enters the free space , if not stop at pre set depth. Once you have drilled the first pilot hole , Remove the bolt, blow off and inspect work. You should now have a perfectly central hole that stays true all the way down the sheared stud. Next move to the next size core drilled bolt, insert into the jig and repeat process.. In the case of an M8 thread , i go up to a 5,5mm drill then see if the stud will come out with an extractor.. Unfortunately in this case it was not interested , even after penetrating fluid being applied down the hole and being allowed to soak.. So on to the next bolt core size ... This will be 6.5 mm which is just under the tapping drill size of 6.8 for the M8 thread.. Once this is drilled down , I remove the jig , then using a pick tool i can clear the top couple of threads, this then gives a start for a tap.. In cases like this i use a pug tap as i want it to chip out the remaining thread rather than cutting which a taper tap would try to do. Use plenty of cutting oil when doing this and the desired result should be achieved. Job very nearly complete.. just need to test the quality of the thread. So i insert the new stud and torque to the require level of 12 ftlbs ... In this case it was spot on ... However , if it had not tightened to spec and puled out the thread then we would refit jig and drill to Heliocoil size , tap and fit coil. with the confidence that it is in perfectly straight.. Hopefully this will help you successfully resolve your sheared stud issue ... I use this method in all sorts of guises to facilitate this type of repair.. Happy restorations ... Dave (Changes)
  2. 16 points
    Classic Cars magazine at Hethel.
  3. 15 points
    Afternoon folks - I commissioned drawings of my two cars awhile ago and have just received the finished artwork and am proper chuffed with the results and thought some of you might like to see! Adam Gompertz is the artist - @revseventandart / historiccarart.net
  4. 15 points
    Lovely day in Yorkshire today
  5. 14 points
    34 years to the day after it rolled off the production line.
  6. 13 points
    For those of you reading this sometimes things that are written come across not as intended. I have called Dave Changes today and had a long chat. He has a vast amount of experience with these engines and I for one am glad he posts on here and imparts some of his knowledge, as most experts dont bother. We have come to an understanding If he thinks Im doing a cock up he will tell me. I dont need any more engine failures! Thanks Dave.
  7. 12 points
    So back to some changes. Over the winter I have been trying to work out what to do with cars, should I change modify etc - that really is undecided but I thought I would go about changing a few more bits that I think could be better on the Exige. First was something I had an idea would work, but wasn't sure till I tried it - removing the ugly plastic grills. As I have the carbon access panel, the standard plastic hex stuff was gone from there. Side scoops also are now meshed, but the front was still there and it annoyed me, so I wanted rid… First I got some spares of the grills on the front end so I could go back to standard if I messed up: Then I started cutting, removing the mesh leaving only frames: Next became the far harder task of cutting out the mesh to fit - it took forever to cut and bend to shape and cut my hands to bits, which was nice. Once bent and cut, I bonded with epoxy, then covered that with silicon adhesive to keep it all looking black. They looked like this in the end: All screws were still accessible through careful lining up of the holes, so fitting and removal is identical to OEM - just a bit more fiddly. Then trial fitting - all looked how I wanted so then I had to cut for the towing eye (towing eye bolts missing as I was taking it on and off to measure. Also moved the number plate up and removed the plinth - may move it back as I am not sure on the higher number plate position. We'll see when out in the light properly, but I had to pack up and head off at this point. Towing hook hole was lined to keep it looking neat, but I need to make final adjustment on alignment . Ignore the dust and stuff I took photos before the clean down. And that’s it - will probably make an uncut version without the towing eye, but that’s for another day. Anyway, to my eyes it's lifted the look of the front end nicely - it may be marmite for others!
  8. 11 points
    So the binnacle (and other dash bits) have arrived and started to test fit the new internal sills
  9. 10 points
    Here are a couple shots of the Aim binnacle with newly installed alcantara. Buttons still function perfectly and everything installed nicely.
  10. 10 points
    Selling 6 cars instead of 5 in China would be a 20% increase. There really is nothing to celebrate at this moment in time beyond Lotus's survival but hopefully it will start to make some kind of sense as we approach the end of the year. The marketing strategy to date appears to be - announce £2m hypercar, change logo, reverse JMG's lighter, faster, louder, pricier trajectory. Still totally baffled by the lack of interest and support for the current range (which are all brilliant examples of cars 'For The Drivers') but best guess is that they are so far away from where the new management want to take the brand that promoting them would be counter productive to the new chapter. Lotus was sold to the new management as an opportunity for a well funded start-up. It may well be totally intentional to break ties with the past and 'old Lotus'. So the plan is to get away from track focused, hard core, impractical, bespoke, single-minded driver's cars. Trouble is, that's everything that made Lotus stand out, everything I treasure about them and the reason they sold 1500 cars last year instead of closer to zero. Building cars cheaper than Porsche is not an option so the hard truth is they will need to offer something faster, more powerful, lighter, better looking, more engaging, whilst offering at least the same level of perceived quality, reliability, useability, visibility, practicality and tech if they're going to really steal some market share at a higher price. This I believe is essentially the plan. I think there's still a lot of scepticism towards Lotus out there beyond these walls so if they falter on any one area it will be business as usual. Most people are risk averse, even more so when it comes big ticket purchases. So much of the Porsche brand and sales machine is based around reassurance. 'Evolution not revolution' being an obvious example. Maybe like McLaren the first 'Geely' Lotus will be an important first step like the MP412-C was. The 12C was considerably faster than the 458 Ferrari, was offering more advanced technology and followed the McLaren F1. Lotus spend money on things like double wishbone suspension that their rivals do without. It makes them expensive to make but high standards have been maintained regardless of sales success to Lotus's credit. But if you're going to charge more than a Cayman for a Lotus you need to explain to people what they're getting for the extra money. It's more a communication than a product issue. Few Cayman buyers know or care about the limitations and compromises of strut suspension or electric steering. Seems to me that now is the perfect opportunity to celebrate the current range, use them to explain the Lotus philosophy and what it offers drivers. Start making the case and building the Lotus brand. Keep people talking about Lotus. Lay some foundations for future success. One suggestion could be a national campaign to reach out to people (men and women) who have never driven a Lotus. Celebrate it as a bucket list event in itself. You can film the 'I had no idea' revelations we read about so often taking place in real time. Weave in technical explanations for how and why this stuff if happening. Cast the net wide, invite celebrities, Youtubers, nurses, policemen, anyone who has never driven a Lotus. Film younger people experiencing authentic steering feel for the first time. Dovetails with For The Drivers perfectly. Hollywood teases films up to a year in advance, it's a very cluttered market place for films and cars alike. I guess if the new car is delayed they need a concrete date to work towards that perhaps they don't have yet?
  11. 9 points
  12. 9 points
  13. 9 points
    Thought I spotted Batman! - but it was just a horse
  14. 9 points
    So small update. Today Little Red Riding Hood got the new coilover suspension kit. That should hopefully tighten things up a bit. As far as I know, she's had new dampers and springs many years ago, so time for modern suspension. I've got some stiffening for the chassis ready to be installed. And some really funky chassis mod as well, if all turns out to be doable. A seperate project, so no worries over the Nitron springrate. As I've mentioned earlier, I thought about Öhlins and Nitron. Came down to Nitron for now, as Öhlins wanted my car for soem weeks and a whole lot of cash. No way I am leaving my car iwht others. Just won't happen. As Nitron had their kit developed for the Stevens and onwards Esprit, I setteled for that. Albeit it was in reality for the V8 model. I received the kit with some nice discount thanks to our always helpful forum leader and opened the box to see what I'd pay good money for. In the package is also an adjustment tool, which can also be bought seperately if need be, a basic manual on installation and basic adjustment, two stickers and a basic build sheet. Packaging is well done and safe for shipping. A nice kit. The picture above shows the kit as in the package. So, the differences from earlier installed sets, as mentioned on this site, is the collars to tighten the wprings with, are not gold anodised, but grey as the rest of the body and some of the fittings. That suits me nicely. Another thing are the big greyish spring plates, which are not going to be used on Little Red Riding Hood, as it's a 1990 Esprit Turbo SE, which is different with regards to spring perches in the rear. No adapters are needed for the front suspension installation, only the rear. I opted for the standard delivered 50N/mm spring rate, even though Nitron personally told me it's 60N/mm. Never mind, this is the road kit, and if it shows up to be americanised soft, I'll change the springs for the next step up, 60N/mm. Helper springs on the rear dampers are 15N/mm, and all numbers are clearly marked on each part. Easy peasy, no guesswork. As Vulcan Grey et al mentioned elsewhere, on the Turbo SE, are needed two adapters for centralise the more narrow springs of the Nitron modern spring'ed coilover kit (as others also are), as the chassis have an inner ring that obstruct a direct installation, so he was very kind to send me a drawing of his own making, so I could have those two parts made at a company. I had them anodised grey to suit the Nitron kit. There may be a slight variation from american cars to european cars it seems (to be confirmed), as I needed the inner diameter to be slightly enlarged by 1,5mm to suit the special metal washers and rubber bushings. I also had the edges beveled slightly. Speaking of which: they seem to be nla, so luckily MrDangerUS came to my aid and sent me two fresh sets. Meanwhile at the mancave, I found a solution to get polybushings for the job, as Nitron does not deliver any parts needed as other brands does. That's a bit odd in my humble oppinion. It seems that Avo have had their bushings made in poly for their own coilover kits, and a dealer was kind enough to sell me 8 bushings to suit my car seperately, without having the need to buy a whole coilover kit I was told these would need to be modified slightly to suit the inner damper rod. That is not the case, they press fit nicely and I am using those now. As I took off the old suspension, I did not split the front dampers, but left them complete for another job. Instead a dealer supplied me with fresh original Lotus top hats with bolts, so that was wasy peasy to assemple. The Nitron Kit comes with special made stainless washers, but only for the lower and uppermost washer on the 4 rods (for the flat side of the bushings). So inbetween the old ones have to be reused. These special Nitron washers, have to be faced correctly when installing, so look at them first. As I did not take the original front suspension apart (serious springload!), I could use the washers from the two kits I received. The installation is very simple and straight forward. I did undo the front arb while doing this work, easing the moving ud the lower track arms when taking the old dampers and springs out (as one assemply) and installing the new complete "legs". I hung the brake calipers in strips, and only removed as little as possible. This whole work in only a testfit, to see what mods I need to do, to make the Nitron kit suit the Esprit Turbo SE. When it is all in place and working to my satisfaction, I will undo it all and renovate the whole arrangement of track arms in front and the front arms in the rear, plus all new Lotac bushings, bolts, nuts and other hardware. It's all on the shelf, ready to be used. I did not want to use some sort of rubber cushion on the top of the springs, so I opted for some poly rings there as well. Fits nicely and should isolate a bit of roadnoise. The lower mounting point on the rear dampers are made so one end is protruding longer than the other end, and the long end should point towards the front of the car, to make room for installation. It's all obvoius when installing. I did chek for dampers being propperly assembled and tightened before installation. One mod is to file ever so slightly the lower edge of the upper inner wheelhousing to make enough room for the Nitron adjustment button, which is top mounted, to be installed, as I had taken it off to while installing, and as it anyway have to be taken off to assemble the whole "leg". that is very easy with just one small countersunk "pinol" screw. The collars to asjust the springs with and likewise the collars to secures the uper ones with are made of pretty soft aluminium, and the method is not a traditional "hooked" key, but a nifty little tool with just a round locating pin that fits in a series of small round holes in the collars. Take care, as they could deform easily. Another observation point is the rear echaust side, where the heat protection cover for the top of the damper rod, does no longer fir propperly, when using Nitron suspension. It can be fastened though. This will have to be undone, if you want to adjust he otherwise easy click-adjustment of the combined damping/rebpund setting. There are 30 positions on bot front and rear dampers. Standard setting is 11 from the hardest position (Nitron says 10 in their documentaton, but I counted 11 on all 4 dampers), and since I have not driven the car yet, I'll go for that as a first try. Knob for adjustment is shaped to aid and is black hard anodised. The click in itself is very positive and secure and easy to find. Well made. Springs are light blue in typical Nitron colour these days (changes from time to time), and is well powdercoated. Anodising is also wll made and not overly thin, I guesstimate around 30-35 micron, so should protect the aluminium well for some time. I won't be using Little Red Riding Hood in bad weather, but will probably hit the odd rainshower from time to time, so it's nice to knwo, it won't corrode at the first outing. AS a first try, I lowered Little Red Riding Hood considerably, so don't take notice of that. I'll working on a full geo asap. Then, later on, I'll readjust the height, and redo geo. Upon moving the car outside, to make suspension settle in it's natural position, I found it to be quite firm on the rear dampers and slightly firmer front, compared to my otherwise okay original dampers. No real drive as of yet. We'll see about that later in the Spring. Another nice feature of the Nitron kit is the weight, which is much lighter than the original steel ditto from Lotus. I have measured all bits and parts on my scale, and I record a total saving of 10,858 Kg. Total weight of Little Red Riding Hood is slowly getting closer to 1100 Kg, which is my goal without any real visual difference and lack of features. To be able to get there, I probably need setting up a small carbon part manufacture in the garage, and vacuum and bake the parts. We'll see later this year. There are many good parts to be replicated and painted to keep original look. More on that later on. My first impression with the Nitron Esprit kit is both positive and a bit negative. It should be mentioned, that I find the kit to be mechanically well made, and with a good finish. Installation is not difficult, but note that some parts in the kit are not needed, and some you will have to fabricate yourself, plus the problem with the heatshield for the left rear. Also the fit is not faultfree, as there are a couple of small details that could have been made to suit better. Stiction, polishing and valving, adjustability and general performance is too early to talk about. I'll get back to that later on. Nitron recommend that they rebuild the kit every 10 to 15 hours of track and race use, and every 20.000 - 30.000 kilometers with road use. I'd be wary of that, and have it rebuilt before doing 30.000 kilometers in the Esprit. As the Lotac suspension kit is doubled in price over a few years and in my humble opinion have it's own few quirks, I find it natural to look for other more modern solutions, to be able to gain on newer development of suspension building. While I know Öhlins and their level of internal polishing and lack of stiction, they are very pricy and lands at around the same price as the most extended set of Nitron with seperate reservoirs, seperate slow/fast damping and slow/fast rebound. Nitron offers in my eyes so far, a basic coilover kit with the most needed adjustment possibilities, which with some observation can be made to fit the Esprit of 1988 onwards, and hopefully works well. Recommended so far. So says Little Red Riding Hood too. Kind regards, Jacques
  15. 9 points
    So, a chance to get out finally, and a chance to see the front end properly, still like it but the number plate will likely be going back down to the splitter - so few cars get it that low and it’s a shame to not do it! So that’s I'll change at some point over the weekend. Well I say that, at the moment I am undecided - so I made up a plinth for mounting to the grill. Bent out of ali sheet to the same size as my (modifed) splitter level plinth. Prefer not to have screws in number plates if I can help it, so have a plinth for both the high an low option, this simply screws to the mounts in the grill: So using that I'll decide on the plate level out later in the year when I am out on the road more Anyway, here's the wider pics so it can be seen in more context: Next was the tow loop on the back end and a change of diffuser. The normal cup tow loop bracket comes in two flavours, vertical mount (as per v6 cup I think) and horizontal mount (as per 430) - as I was updating the diffuser, then I went horizontal as per the 430. Just a note, for the tow bracket the part numbers on the Lotus dealers parts list is wrong, you need to change the last digit. You need the bracket itself, two captive nut plates, bolts and a tow strap. I had a TRS in the garage from another car, and I think this is what Lotus uses, but who knows. Anyway the bits you need are below: When I first got the car I was going to get the garage to do stuff before I saw sense, they quoted 2 hours labour to do it. Total time was 20 mins including removing diffuser, so not sure what the official process is! But by reaching through the hole on the outside off the subframe it was pretty easy, offer it up, fish the captive nuts through. Bolts in, repeat for other side, remember you forgot threadlock, take out bolts, apply threadlock, bolts back in, torque job done. Loosening the exhaust mount makes it easier so you don't have to reach over the bolt from it too much) Not a great image, but here is the assembly in place, bolted to the subframe (exhaust mount misaligned as the bolts were loosened for access): Then you simply attach the tow strap. Tow strap itself was treated with smart fabric - so fairly water resistant to keep the roadgrime off. Next 410/430 diffuser, you need the diffuser and grill. There are two grills available, one with tow loop hole(430 one), one without (350/410 one). If anyone has had an S2 - this feels much more like that. The finish is the same, its riveted, its actually black (not the bluey/black on the old diffuser) - basically not a hacked up Evora part, so much better. You need to transfer the ducts from the original diffuser as they were not in mine. Just 4 bolts on each, then transfer the spire nuts. I also switched to stainless bolts, because shiny. Its these bits here: Rubber trim was actually not that great out of the box, lots of glue residue. I looked at the cars in the dealer - they were all the same. So after about 30 mins with glue remover they were back to being black, looked like this after removal of glue from the rubber, still needed to polish up the edges. As is the normal tradition the diffuser was coated with one coat of Gtechniq CSL, and two coats of Exov4 - it makes it a bit blacker, and makes cleaning easier. Rubber then coated with Gtechniq C4 protector. Additional parts to the grill and diffuser: M6 spire nuts x 4 M6 x 18mm bolt, button head (black) x 4 M6 washer (black) x 4 If it’s the first time of taking the diffuser off I'd change the fittings to stainless, but this was done in the past. Unbolt the 4 m6 bolts that hide behind the diffuser, removing the middle two will release this bracket that the standard old shape diffuser bolts to, not needed anymore and bolt back up to the old diffuser. You won't have the extra cabling at the top of the pic: Bolt the new grill in place. You will need to bend the heat shield to get access to the bolt on the top. Mount 4 m6 spire nuts to the bottom of the grill. I then mounted closed cell foam pad to the bottom of the tabs so the diffuser wasn't scratched on fitting. Then bolted it all up. Job jobbed. Much prefer it to the original rather plastic affair
  16. 9 points
    Glad to have put a deposit down on the white sports racer recently on Piston heads and Autotrader. Looking forward to the experience.
  17. 9 points
  18. 9 points
    In celebration of my upcoming 10th anniversary on the forum, and no posts to my name, I'd like to announce the purchase of my new Elise. Its a Cup 250 thats being put together as I type by the good people at Hethel. Hoping for a March delivery. I've lurked for long enough
  19. 9 points
    Well here is the binnacle, hope it looks as good in the flesh... cheers
  20. 8 points
    So, You may think LotusRescue has been a bit quiet of late, in fact for a fair few months. However, things have been moving on in the background. Delays caused by my full time job which meant little time at home over the past two years and not too much being done when I was home, other than one project which was the the imported S1 from the states. She is now all done and off to her owner at long last. I must admit, it is looking rather good and had a huge amount of work done on her. On the personal side. The TLF member who, three years ago offered to back me in the venture has now been repaid. I will forever be thankful to him for restoring my faith in humane nature when at a time I was pretty pissed off with the world and all that went with it. Thank you bud, it will always be appreciated. Although you asked for nothing in return I am pleased I was able to make a start on something, and eventually pay you back. In the following months I had to give up my workshop as the owner put his property on the market for sale, and surprisingly, it sold in 4 days. Ouch. I had four days to find alternative storage for the cars I had. Luckily, a local guy who is into classic motorcycles had a spare barn and storage space so a deal was done and hey ho, new premises. At the same time I had a nice little windfall which allowed me to purchase a nice 4 post ramp, some vehicle stock, a load of new tools etc and get the new workshop kitted out properly (thank you Mrs W) So now LotusRescue has a wonderful big shed that holds 4 cars, and outside covered storage for 6 more, a four post 4 ton ramp which is slight bigger than the standard 3 ton one and gives an extra .5Mtr width and 1.5Mtr length which is perfect for an Esprit. In addition to the ramp, I managed to find a cracking good jacking beam which fits across the ramp and allows me to jack any vehicle up and have the wheels free to work on anything. The building owners have been excellent in having a new concrete floor laid prior to the ramp going in so no worries about strength of the floor, all new lighting and all new power sockets, and loads of them. It is bloody ace. LotusRescue now has 3 client cars waiting for work (which helps pay the rent) plus my increased own fleet, and all due to one man and a little luck with a PPE claim. And all that happened withing a few months at the end of last year. Now if you think that's good, the next bit is a cracker. As of the end of this month I am no longer working away from home for months at a time then only having a week or so off, I am back on a normal work rota where I work away for 4 weeks, then home for 4. A life can now be had, plans can be made, our house backlog of jobs can be finished, the wife's car can be completed ( the Excel has been waiting almost 2 years) and I can get cracking with other projects. The first being another S1, then the Ekup, an Elite (horrible faded Brown) and two Excels, then whatever whatever lands up next. Couple of pics attached of the S1 the day she left outside the old workshop and the new shed waiting to be finished and have the walls and floor painted. Progress. Oh yes. Happy today. Oh yes.
  21. 8 points
    It’s not even ran in yet but on Saturday I’m swapping this: For this: The sleepless nights are beginning to kick in and the weekend can’t come quick enough.
  22. 8 points
    Being somewhat inexperienced when it comes to car maintenance, let alone Esprit maintenance, quite happy with having done the following without issue and not many expletives: Replaced door switch, interior and door lights now come on when door is open Lubricated the electric windows, no more fearing that they'll grind to a halt when opening or closing Hunted down the cause of the 15A brake light fuse blowing using a multimeter and the circuit diagram (a systematic approach actually worked) Fixed a loose rattly exhaust mount Sure, for those who remove engines and do rebuilds etc. the above might seem trivial, but hey, I'm happy today
  23. 8 points
  24. 8 points
    18. Escape Hatch Apologies, I missed out a stage in my restoration. Since I'm writing this up in chronological order of how I tackled the full restoration of the Esprit. This largely concerns the assembly and preparation of the rear hatch and bonnet prior to fitting. Although it's great to rush to add things which are ready, just for the sole purpose of making the car look good. It's a great looking car after all! I had to consciously hold myself back from jumping ahead of myself, but making the build more difficult by installing items that weren't strictly needed at the time, and would only hinder access, and thereby my progress. Tempting though it was! So, once I was happy with the engine running and that I was unlikely to need the best access to the engine as possible I fitted the rear quarterlight windows and the bulkhead separation window. Which I spent assembling during the winter months. During those cold and dark winter months I also took time to complete the bonnet. Taking care to fit the refurbished air intake mesh using the original fasteners. Fixing the new rubber seals by using flexible superglue which @madrocket had recommended. It worked extremely well, if a little expensive. New rivnuts and the powder coated catches completed the bonnet. It had been tempting to fit it and complete the external look of the car, but I reluctantly held off, as I still had things to do in the front compartment. Similarly with the rear hatch. Which had also been stored in a spare room for months. I obtained original style ‘D’ section foam which I cut to the length of the original and stuck to the corners as I had removed 2 years earlier. It appears to help seal the bicycle inner tube style seal that fits around these two items. As per the rest of the car, all none structural/suspension fasteners were replaced with stainless steel. My extensive spreadsheet of the restoration costs calculate that this area alone came to £340. Which excludes the many bolts I bought from SJ Sportscars for the fulcrum bars and other load bearing areas. I also assembled the rear 'Constructor's' badge ready to place on the rear hatch prior to being fitted, having obtained excellent gas struts from SPG near Derby when I was passing just before that Christmas. This item had to be in place so that I could organise for the remaining glass to be fitted. After fitting the hatch I adjusted the rear catch, adding the replacement badge and LOTUS lettering to complete. The next step was to recreate the original demister wiring. I located some original style black PVC spade connector shrouds and set about making the fly leads. My car hadn’t come with a spare wheel retainer, and the captive nut from under the front compartment floor had also been missing. Leaving just holes where it had been riveted. I made a template and sketched a design for the local fabricators to make up using nuts and bolts I had put together. The job was given to a young apprentice who made a great job of it, and was amazed that this simple piece fit into such an exotic car. I added a homemade hard rubber/plastic 'bobbin' under the stainless steel washer to help protect the inner surface of the newly prepared spare wheel. Since I was getting close to preparing the car for the road the number plates were ordered. Choosing an accurate style for the age of the car. I’d used the same firm previously and I knew they’d do a great job and I knew they would set off the car well. Once again, this was a major psychological and emotional stage for me. As the car had finally got it's 'name' back, and was now ready for the penultimate stage of getting it on the road. With only the windscreen and rear hatch glass to be fitted. As detailed in the previous instalment. We're now back in sequence now. Phew!
  25. 8 points
    Hi guys, I have been a serial Lotus owner for 6 cars, starting off with a 1972 Elan+2S/130, then M100 Elan SE Turbo, two Exige S2s, then a NA 2010 Evora, now back to the Lotus fold with a new Evora GT410 Sport Its a peach! Thx, Mark
  26. 8 points
    14. Bow (to the) Doors With the sunnier days it became more comfortable to work outside which also provided the room required to work on some of the larger pieces remaining in this jigsaw. Namely the doors, which being wide meant their addition could not be done in the single garage. I’d also been warned that the process of their fitting and alignment can be very tricky and time consuming process to get right. The warm weather would at least mean that it was a nice environment in which to work slowly. New old stock exterior door handles had been purchased months previously, rather than refurbishing the old ones, which had wear around the tumbler edge, and would require repainting anyway. However I found some minor modification to the latch mechanism was necessary, and those parts were swapped over from the originals. As well as having the door bars cleaned up I had their end plates re-zinced, since they helped fill the silver batch when I had the gearbox bolts done. Fitting the door bars with their new hinge bushes was easy enough, and allowed a central support on which to hang the door skins for the internal assemblies to be added, followed by the door frames. So far so good. However, the build sequence wasn’t obvious and I was conscious not to rush as I didn’t want to find that I’d fitted the rare clear glass, some of which I’d obtained months earlier, only to find it all had to be redone again due to an error. The door handle rods were scrubbed up lightly with emery cloth, which also allowed the adjustment tabs to take a grip. I didn’t see the need to buy new plastic retaining blocks so the control rod ends were tie-wrapped in place on the interior door handles so as to keep them from popping out. Finally, the metal strips holding them in place were screwed in place to finish the door catch mechanism. The newly powder coated door frames were dug out of safe storage, along with the front quarterlight glass and the messy process of fixing them in with sealant began. Not for the faint hearted, and not something I’d recommend. I would suggest careful masking of the door glass and preparation of the door frames prior to painting with a suitable finish. Thereby retaining some more of the originality, and saving stress and mess into the bargain. Certainly the media blasting had cleaned out the channel for slotting in the new weather strips. I left these as they were for a few months whilst I worked on the rest of the car, before trimming them to create a good corner once they had taken shape around the raised drop glass. One of the benefits of a protracted build I suppose, over faster production line methods. However, I did feel over this whole section of the restoration that a repeated production line experience would have been beneficial, since getting the fiddly stuff right first time was difficult and stressful. With the main door parts now complete, the new weather strip and finishers were assembled and bolted into place. Remembering to paint the rivets on the inside, as I could see that their shiny surfaces would catch the eye in the door glass aperture when complete. The drop glass and runners were then put into position on their newly greased bobbins. Making sure that they were free to slide up and down before bolting them into place. With the doors now in position and aligned I was able to add the waistline trim. First to the main body, then on the doors themselves. Another time consuming job requiring a lot of patience to get it right. In preparation I warmed the coil of waistline trim in a black bin liner left in the summer sunshine for about 30 minutes. I found that it didn’t take long to become supple and lose its inherent storage kinks. Following advice I began to put it in position, using masking tape to first hold in position so that it took the form of the body shell. I was to be leaving for Poland on business for a few days, so I rolled the car back into the sun warmed garage and let time do its thing. On returning to the UK I was keen to crack on and see how the trim had set in position. I found that the process worked well, though when removed for gluing it quickly lost its shape and had to be handled carefully when the time required to fit permanently. I also found that it was best to mask the trim thoroughly, rather than just at intervals, but that may be just me, as I’ve not seen anyone else take this approach. Anyway, it worked. Trickier sections, such as around the curves of the wheel arches required the use of some localised heat. I commandeered an old hairdryer and used a strip of the heat wrap I’d bought for the chassis and engine mount protection from the exhaust to help prevent stray heat reaching the precious paintwork. Just in case. The rear corners were the trickiest sections of all were the rear corners which I had noticed on other cars were difficult to obtain a smooth transition. This did take a whole afternoon to get right. Using a combination of applied heat, an assortment of clamps borrowed from my friend Keith, and small dabs of superglue using a pin to the undersides of the waistline trim to provide a quicker adhesion ahead of the sealant to setting. Fiddly work indeed. The beauty of forums such as this and the ready made community of Esprit owner restorers on Facebook is that I was able to ask advice on the angles that the waistline trim had to be cut. Thanks to @jonroberts, @winners, @madrocket, @JNW3 and others this only had to be done once, and saved me rubbishing whole lengths of painstakingly fitted trim only to start again on those sections. I used an old stool and blocks of wood to obtain the right height, together with a cardboard template I’d made with the 2 angles required, along with my trusty Stanley knife fitted with a new blade. Heating the overlapping end to be cut first to soften it, before finally trimming. Another one of those heart in the mouth moments I found were becoming quite frequent in these final build stages. Again, this hastily thought up homemade method worked very well. The next stage was the door carrier which is necessary to fit the outer trim. An odd idea, which I couldn’t believe worked, or why, but found that it did. New strips had been obtained along with the obligatory stainless steel rivets to prevent rusting. The strips were fixed in position using masking tape and the doors drilled. Yikes! Making sure that the drill depth didn’t hit the precious drop glass inside. More yikes! The rivets were pre-trimmed as I found that they would expand a little too much and squeeze out the carrier strips. The outer waistline trim was then fixed in place with sufficient overlap to allow the ends to be cut once they had set in position. With the door trims fitted the car was looking more like an Esprit, and taking shape overall. Fitting the ‘A’ and ‘B’ pillar finishers were less labour intensive and quickly moved the exterior along. No longer did I have a car that looked like a half assembled Lego kit. Only the bonnet, rear hatch and main glass were necessary to complete the overall exterior look.
  27. 7 points
    Hi all, Writing this because I am a bit bored and a few of you might be interested. I left a good job at JLR last year and began a job at a Chinese company in Chongqing last August. Chongqing is normally a fantastic place, very vibrant, great people, a great metro system and very picturesque. I get a long winter break, I left China just before Christmas and returned to China to start work after Spring Festival. I actually flew to China on the day BA said they were stopping flights to mainland China. I flew Heathrow to Beijing, then Beijing to Chongqing on Air China, I have never seen Beijing airport so deserted, 500 domestic flights were cancelled that day, new flights were scheduled using the big planes that had arrived on long haul flights to do a few domestic flights, I actually flew to Chongqing on the same plane that brought me from Heathrow. I have now been in my apartment for 15 days, up until Tuesday this week I could come and go as I pleased, I went out every couple of days for groceries etc. everything is shut except pharmacies, where you are not allowed in, you stand behind a table at the door and ask for what you want, and a few supermarkets, you cannot enter a supermarket unless you pass the temperature test (temperature gun on forehead. On entry back into my community (walled area containing 13 high rise blocks of apartments, surrounded by a high wall with 4 entry exit points through security) temperature is checked again. Supermarkets are quiet but have plenty of stock. Work was supposed to have started on the 3rd of February, then it got delayed to the 10th, now its the 24th. Things have changed now, on Tuesday this week I went to go out and found only one exit/entry point open. They would not let me out because I did not have a pass. I phoned a Chinese friend who spoke to security who then let me out. What my company didn't tell me was that I or they should have registered me with the community management when I arrived, although they did arrange for the Police to visit me on my first day here who gave me information about the virus. This means my first day here is officially Tuesday, so now I am not allowed out of the community for 14 days from Tuesday. My company are talking to the management company to see if the Police visit can be enough to prove I have been here for two weeks already to allow me a pass, which will let me go out every other day, if not no going out for 11 days. People who have not left Chongqing are allowed one person from each apartment to leave every other day. The government delivered me a parcel of vegetables and my friend just arranged a delivery of beer, other friends can help me get food, all the online shopping apps are in Chinese so I cant do it myself. I won't starve. To kill the time I have been learning Chinese, doing lots of free online OU courses, (now doing Learning to Code for Data Analysis) exercising and watching lots of TV, although my VPN has stopped working today. This site is one of a few that I can use with no VPN, obviously the CCP are not threatened by Lotus enthusiasts. People are starting to slowly return to work, but its more office people working from home rather factories re-opening. The virus is being taken very seriously here. Some of my Chinses colleagues are still in their hometowns because they have not been able to return to Chongqing after spring festival. Everybody is very bored staying indoors. The Esprit is safely tucked away in my garage in Norfolk, it passed the MOT in January but I returned from a 200 mile round trip a few days later and the exhaust is blowing a little from somewhere around the wastegate, something to look at next January. Sorry for the long post, I will answer any questions if I can find the time! Steve
  28. 7 points
    "The first year’s production allocation is already designated to customers around the world."
  29. 7 points
    Last weekend at Bahrain International Circuit
  30. 7 points
    The situation is real simple - Lotus have nothing new to show the public just yet.....they will have at the end of the year and that’s when you’ll see what they have in the pipeline no matter how much people moan for it to happen earlier. So there’s no point in attending Geneva, Beijing, Goodwood (unless they want to show their current wares).......so can we just give them space to try and take a company that’s been stuck in the 90’s for the last 30 years and wait until they are ready to move the business forward! It won’t be too much longer - first step next year, with new Evora based platform car and we will see the Evija in full form.....maybe even earlier than this.Thereafter new models will follow and realistically we will see them in ‘22. Their situation is not something that can be changed overnight, but let’s just be thankful that Lotus are on the rise once more and better times are ahead #forthedrivers
  31. 7 points
    First day I got mine I had been out for a good drive, lots of look and sideways glances but as I was nearing home, there was a mid 20’s, blonde and really good looking. She was looking straight at me with her thumb up. As cool as possible I nodded back to her only seconds after I noticed a double decker bus filling my rear view mirror. I check now before making a dick of myself over again!!!
  32. 7 points
    I now have a brace of Lotus cars
  33. 7 points
    The Carbon has landed...
  34. 7 points
    Why does that pic seem to need a caption along the lines of "The couple celebrated 25yrs together." ?
  35. 7 points
    Come on good people of England. You have won (voted) your freedom. It's more valuable than money or fame, because it contains integrity and cannot by it's nature be subdued for eternity. Or look at it this way: Now the leavers have won, Well, in fact I think everyone in the UK have won. But on the other hand, one might say that during all these many years of being a member of the ec, there have been millions of British people surpressed. And they sucked it up (or what ever the term is), and now it's just the opposite. Nah, I think you all won - the war is over, enjoy the peace untill the next stormy weather. Just take a short walk down memory lane and remember when the eastern wall fell (and the Berlin wall). Yes, money was not fed to the right people, so that many in east Germany did not get a chance to recouperate the advancements that the west side had gone through. Some even today claim that they would prefer to go back again in the eastern communist regime that once was. Because they don't have to think, they don't have to struggle on some levels, and they don't have to decide what they want to do with the responsability that freedom gives instead of a nanny state. But think of all the free souls who fought to escape suppression and died trying. Better to try than kill the soul. My wife was born behind that eastern wall, and I can tell you for sure, that it was not a midsummernights dream. It was hell on Earth. Constant lacking food, constant being surpressed in speaking or writing, constant surveilance. And millions ended up dead or near dead in prisons and concentration camps. As the Romans said: you can control people by deprive them everything or give them everything. In either case, they will stop thinking. Do you think that the ec freely wants to give the same chance you had, to other member countries? In the national radio, even yesterday, they told on the news, that the ec wants to tighten the web over the people even more. Even tighter. Or do you remember that boy who stood alone in front of a chinese tank on the square of the Heavenly Peace? He wanted one thing: freedom. No more tyrany. No more suppression. No more control. I think the ec is a failure and a catastrophe by definition, because it offers money and success to those who are rich enough to always stay on top of things. Where as it offers small crumbs to the vast majority on the scaffort where it sacrified freedom. Crumbs such as save ½ hour when going abroad, make the cucumbers straight, let's survail every single individual, let's lower the salary but keep prices up etc. etc. etc. Do you think Bonaparte offered real freedom and prosperity to the masses after 1789? No, he wanted connonfodder to become a dictator. Another regime in history. I am not entirely convinced that everyone in the UK realise just how lucky you are. Maybe, just maybe, it's like having grown up inside a house that had it all, everything you need, save that one thing. And then one day the door to the entire world opens up, and you step out, out of the house that you have been thinking of as being the whole world, when in fact it was never that. Freedom can be quite overwhelming. Never mind pettyfull little things like a passport, the currency and ½ hour more traveling time when going abroad. I am sure we can come to terms of a trading agreement etc. after a while. Now step out of that jail you've been thinking of as your home for the last 46 years, and enjoy. Some may for a while say "no, I don't want that; it's blinding; it's not safe. Of course it's not safe. Anything disasterous can happen, and sometimes it does. But the same disasters may happen inside the cage. We're just trained not to see it. They are excused. It's only natural. In fact, I believe you'll like it! Today, ladies and gentlemen, you should all be proud and spell your names with capital letters only! Kind regards, Jacques
  36. 7 points
  37. 7 points
    I did not want to comment on this Thread anymore , it goes off in all directions with comments on things most owners have no direct experience in, and using assumption as a guide.. But .... Balancing an engine is PRIMARY .... If you don't you will never have a great unit.. It will work and run fine, but like a wheel out of balance it will sap performance and contribute to premature component ware.. Balancing rods and pistons at home as per you tube video is , SO DIY .. Bloody hell , why don't you just do it right for once ... It does not cost a lot ... I just had the lot done for a few hundred quid. That is Crank , fly wheel . clutch cover, front pulley and belt drive / bolt /washer, rods and pistons , even the clutch cover and fly wheel bolts... That is rods end to end and overall .. All done within a couple of 10th of a gram. !!!!!! Lotus spec is 3 grams ... Most after market is not as close as that ... Only when i have purchased top end equipment has it been within lotus spec, but still not as good as i like or it can be ... But I always check and correct everything... Not doing so is nothing short of guess work and hoping for the best.. I sent Fabian a private mail on this very subject 2 days ago outlining these very points , but here we are with pages of scribble on what i feel is a straight forward important aspect of an engines construction , debating if it is to expensive or worth doing , or should we have a go with the kitchen scales.. And you all wonder why they go BANG... A lot of advise is free, just make sure its accurate and comes from experienced source , .. then how you interpret and what you do with it is up to you.. ( not everything on the Web is correct for your specific engine) .... sorry if this has come across a bit blunt Fabian , but i felt it had to be said , not doing so would be misguiding the readership.. No aspect of the post was directed personally at anyone , it is just an observation..
  38. 7 points
    Well I don't think I've had a delivery of soo much carbon fibre in my life I also got a sample of a new product ill be testing Its been a long journey what with the original courier who lost us a month in time (won't happen again!). However happy to say the package has landed! Thanks to everyone for their patience! I'll check all parts and numbers later today (currently at work work) then start work on applying the mesh for the non intake side before getting everything packed and ready for shipping out
  39. 7 points
  40. 7 points
    New to me 2014 ‘S’ 4.5k miles, white/black with 2bular and K&N. Absolutely loving everything about this car! My 4th lotus after Elan+2, S1 and S2 Elise 111s
  41. 7 points
    Took the Esprit for a trip down memory (Potash) lane!
  42. 7 points
    Harry on his way back to the UK. Nearly flat out..
  43. 7 points
    My main concern, before I built this engine, was sealing and gasketing. The irony is the sealing on everything couldnt have been any better. I experienced none of the usual lotus leaks! I really didn't see this engine failure coming! I have had a long think about handing this engine over to a professional, but I keep coming back to the same points. I want to build all of this car and I just can't accept being beaten by an engine- I don't do failure. So I guess I am going to double down on this engine and rebuild it again by myself! I have learned a great deal already and shall put it to good use. I have researched many websites now. Every single picture of damage seems to correlate to iron particle scoring. Before I go any further I must say I have a great respect for Daves Changes and others expert knowledge when it comes to these engines. I appreciate all of the input on this thread. Please understand how some advice can hit home when a failure such as this has occured after so many man hours and so much effort. There will be piss takers but remember what Joan Collins once said, "the only people I know that haven't failed are those that haven't tried"! So I recall my old RAF motto, Per Ardua Ad Astra. Thinking, analysing, reading and listening I have come to a conclusion. I accept Dave is most likely correct and the glass blead is not a factor. This will be confirmed by microscopic analysis later in the week. I own this failure totally. I made two catestrophic omissions when I rebuilt this engine. Dont make my mistakes if your rebuilding one of these! Here they are. I failed to test and check the PRV in the oil pump housing. I failed to detect cracks in the cam followers. If Im honest both caused by lack of knowledge of this engine. So I have tested the new oil pump housing PRV and shall replace all of the cam followers with steel ones. Conclusions The initial lack of oil pressure, due to the PRV stuck open, may have caused slight wear to the follower skirts, but would not have caused this failure in itself. Indeed the car ran for two months with no issues. This was caused by fatigue damaged to the cam followers and a failure by me to detect defects in them in an effective manner. The follower must have been running in a cracked state for a while. All I noticed way a slight misfired at idle when hot. The tuning did seem to drift off slightly on my last few drives. The wear of the cam housing and follower must have resulted in iron particles some how getting into the oil system. The quantity and size of particles must have come from the missing cam follower skirt. Dave I appreciate your view on this, but I simply dont buy that the particles came from the bearing surfaces. There isnt enough wear on them to justify the amount of material in the sump. All the pictures I have seen that are identicle to the damage on my bearings indicate iron particle damage. This caused scoring of the bearing surfaces with a resultant dropping of oil pressure and an increase in operating temperature lowering the oil Viscocity on my last drive. Eventually the top of the cam follower broke to pieces resulting in the engine stopping at idle. Solution The time for analysis is now ended - lets rebuild this sucker! The engine has suffered serious damage. The most important thing is to remove all debirs. I have to throw away all of the new oil hoses, oil cooler and replace. The rest of the engine will be subjected to a stringent cleaning regime of degreaser, jet washing, brake cleaner, pipe cleaner, brushes, sonic cleaning and compressed air. All old gaskets completely removed. Then the shoping list Two replacement 107 camshafts. One replacement inlet camshaft housing and a second opinion from an experienced builder on the second. If no good it will be replaced. New steel cam followers. Cylinder head. Reconditioning by experienced company with a minimum of new valves. Check and reuse of liners and pistons which still appear in good condition. Big end bearings although they appear serviceable will be replaced as a matter of course. crankshaft grinding and new bearings with balance against flywheel. I noticed after the rebuild the engine balance was off. New rotor, annulus, auxillery housing and oil pump housing. I will remeasure all of the components and list everything that needs replacing. As before I will list all components I think need replacing and get them double checked by a professional prior to assembly. After all that if I can still afford to keep my garage I will put it all back together and then get on with the ski racks!
  44. 7 points
    Thanks @jonwat. Yes, that's why I replaced them However, at the time of original assembling the carbs and manifolds I didn't understand their relevance, but it was mentioned to me at my local Lotus Club NE meet. I still didn't quite understand the subtlies either - Doh! Though I'm not certain that these were the cause of my problems when trying to get the engine to run and idle smoothly. Perhaps I'd have had problems later down the line once I began to drive the car? I suspect so, given the reasons for fitting them. Oddly, the car came with those simple plastic spacers, so I'm not sure if it ran with them or not? Or badly perhaps? As this car was a none runner when I purchased it. Certainly, I found the 907 engine and twin Del'lorto combination a far more unforgiving set-up than I've experienced with other engines and setups of this kind. Perhaps showing what a barnstormer this engine is (for it's age at least). I could certainly see that it was a 'revver', and had performance. Such a sweet sounding motor. I become to love the Del'lortos, even if my initial lack of knowledge about them prevented me from making faster progress during this stage. Dave Bogg has done a great job of tuning them, and now that I've done over 1,000 miles since July I will be taking it back in the spring for a tweak. Combined with the suspension geometry that I've just had done by specialists (details to follow), this will make the car a joy to drive. I'm certainly enjoying it! I hope that you're enjoying my write-up also. It's certainly bringing back quite a few memories. Even if it is now just going back to the end of 2018, as so much was done in the process. The restoration was enjoyable and stressful in equal measure, but overall a fabulous opportunity to realise literally a boyhood dream, and meet so many like-minded and enthusiastic people into the bargain. It's a great community, spreading across the whole globe.
  45. 7 points
    Seriously, Fabian, give it to PNM. I'm not sure what the forum page limit is.
  46. 6 points
    ^ That, and for the sake of £50's worth of oil, I'd be changing it. The next owner of your car will be easier to find too and you'll probably realise more cash back if it's serviced on schedule correctly.
  47. 6 points
    Sooo, attended HPE automotive today, had the nitrons bolted on. Have to say Dan's a top man! Nitrons went on first, then he did corner weighting, she weighed in at a healthy 1129kg with 2/3 of a tank fuel she was fairly well balanced to begin with having only about 7kg difference between axles. Next up was geo, front end was good and we left ride height the same as with the Eibach lowering springs; 135 front and 140 rear. Rear needed some work though as things were a little out. Then we moved onto Alias23 carbon side scoops. Install was fairly straight forward following Imrans comprehensive instructions but as the carbon outer shells required bonding on we couldn't attach them as didn't want them coming off before the adhesive had .set on the drive home. Got home and had to try finishing off the install, I've used 3M tape for now and given it a good yank. The advantage being that I can probably prize it apart if required as it still needs a little fettling on the passenger side. On the drive home the ride was very impressive. More compliant but also more on rails through the bends. For now they're set to the mid point for rebound and I'm quite happy with that to be honest.
  48. 6 points
  49. 6 points
    I'm thinking this kind of thread should be a sticky. In the same vein, I had a stud breakage in the engine block which I am told is fairly common. The engine mounts use M8 bolts, the top one of which was missing on my car when I first took the engine out. On removing the mount, this is what I saw - The top bolt had broken in the past, and someone had attempted to drill it out. As it happened, they'd not only managed to break the drill bit off in the hole, but also a bit of the tap. The other holes were not in a good condition, either. So, I cleaned the area up, and used a set of carbide-tipped ball-ended mill bits in the die-grinder to remove the remaining bits of the drill, and tap. I then mixed up some Devcon aluminium metal paste, forced it into the hole, and let it cure for a couple of days before smoothing it off. I'd already bought a new pair of engine mounts, as the originals were in a poor condition, and cut the flange end off to use as a guide to drill the new holes. I bolted up the flange using the two lower holes to give me a reference jig for drilling and tapping the top hole out the next size up to accommodate larger, M10 studs I'd made. I continued the process, rotating, and using bolts to secure the flange for the next drilling. New M10 studs screwed into the block. I relieved around the flange holes to make sure the nuts seated correctly. And then finished article. I also had to manufacture a new support strap, as that had disappeared somewhere in its lifetime. 13,000 miles later, and no stud breakages. Hopefully this might help someone else who finds themselves in the same predicament.
  50. 6 points
    17. The Art of Glass (well it is a 1978 car...) Apologies, I’m running out of puns of Bond film titles. Probably for the best. It is fair to say that I faced fitting the windscreen and rear hatch glass with trepidation. I had read so many things about the preparation and process that my head was beginning to spin. I desperately wanted this stage to go well, as failure would mean a whole setback in preparation and cost. I had been given the name of an independent mobile windscreen specialist 2 years earlier by John at the paint shop. Paul (not Ringo), had arrived just after that Easter to remove the windscreen and rear hatch glass from the car. Which I had safely packed away in large thin storage boxes made from sheets of specially purchased hardboard, and stored in the spare room behind a wardrobe. It was time for me to unpack them and clean them up, which I tentatively did. I’d called Paul to arrange a suitable day to refit them to the car. However due to our busy schedules this turned out to be very tight, as I also needed to get the car away for tuning that afternoon, due to tuner’s availability also. The stainless steel inserts that assist the corner alignment of the windscreen chrome finishing trim were a very tight, if not impossible, fit into the slots. I therefore had to painstakingly file them, but without taking off too much. This required continually filing and then carefully assembling the trims on a soft and flat surface, so as not to mark their outer polished finish. I have no photos of this process, as it was so tricky and had to be done slowly. It took at least a dozen iterations to get each corner to fit correctly. I also carefully filed the ends of the trim to smooth off minor burrs. It was worth all the effort in the end though. I had also very carefully pre-shaped the trim sections to fit the curvature of the roof line and 'A' pillars etc. Not for the faint hearted, as one press too hard could kink this fragile pieces. All that had went well thankfully. However I was afraid that Paul wouldn’t realise how fiddly the fitting of the glass would be, having read about the process on other restoration threads. Which I once again poured over, at least twice. Yikes! In a mild panic I messaged @Lotusfabas I knew that he’d documented this extensively, and had just done the same with his Esprit Turbo. I was now at least confident that I could instruct Paul in anything that he was unfamiliar with, or at least not expecting. Thankfully, Paul immediately put my mind at rest. He had recently fitted a new windscreen to one of my other favourite cars, a Ferrari 365/GTS ‘Daytona’, and he was not fazed in the slightest. So I knew he was up to this job! He understood the complexities associated with this type of job, and I helped out where instructed. I was quite nervous to say the least. Especially helping him carry the glass on the hand suckers to the car. This is no understatement. It had to go well, and on time. The pressure was on! The windscreen took about 2 hours to fit, but the rear hatch glass went in about half that time. Oddly, considering it has trim on all four sides. This included making our own seating blocks from solid Styrene Butadiene rubber to raise the glass to the correct height to meet the surrounding trim sections. I made the executive decision to also fit the matt black vinyl strip to the base of the windscreen, even though the screen had been correctly masked. It actually finished off the installation well. Though I cannot see it retaining a clean edge over the years, but could be easily re-applied. Again, I didn’t have the time to take any photos as I had to remain focused on the job in hand at all times. However, I was extremely happy with the finished results. For the first time in three years the car now looked complete. Amazingly Paul would only except a small charge, and absolutely no more. Having loved the opportunity of fitting a screen to an Esprit. I now had little over an hour for lunch and a tidy up before my pal Mark would arrive with the trailer to take it down to Malton for engine tuning.


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