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Showing content with the highest reputation on 15/05/14 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Ok guys heres the update. A NEW ONE SWITCH SYSTEM IS AVAILIBLE As mentioned a short while back, Ive been developing a replacement again which I wanted to be a one switch system as per the original unit. Having paid for the initial development unit to be made as per my requirements, Ive spent the past few weeks testing it with great success. The unit is made here in the UK using a military application unit and as such supply should be no issue. The company I have been working with on this project are remaining nameless (their choice) at least at the moment. They do not deal with the general public and only supply in certain industries, however, it was by happen chance that I contacted them and my initial enquiry was picked up by one of their technical engineers who happens to own several Lotus cars (elites etc) and as such took the project on as a 'curiosity' problem...it pays to have a common passion! As such, without the boring details, the problem was addressed and the solution was found. Ive successfully covered nearly 400 miles using the new switch and its functionality is excellent. Ill list its attributes and benefits; One unit - smaller installation space required, simplified wiring, neater solution Control of low pressure warning system - included in the unit, working as per the original alongside the control of pump functions Robust casing - shock proof, vibration proof, more than adequate water resistance on wiring connections, as mentioned this is a military grade unit Improved internal construction - improvements over the previous type unit in terms of it accuracy, longevity of use, reliability and quality Pressure spike dampening - whether or not anyone else has ever noticed, there is occasionally a slight spike in pressure when the pump runs, this can give a slightly fluctuating reading of pressure and as such affect the 'feel' of the pedal and its performance. chances are though you wouldn't notice, it is very slight, but the opportunity to remove this and make an even more consistent functioning unit is incorporated in the design of this one Functioning indicator - The unit includes a coloured LED functioning, which enables you to quickly see if the unit is registering UNDER the minimum pressure, PUMP RUNNING to bring the pressure up to maximum and MAXIMUM PRESSURE reached, this is a simplified function but is a good visual indicator that the system is also working correctly. So from just the above few points you can see this new switch has many advantages over the previous solution, and indeed possibly better than the original unit due to its basic functioning LED indicator. In terms of actually fitting the unit it is a fairly simple affair, but obviously the previous guide to system maintenance and bleeding still applies. As a competent mechanic, if you can service your own engine there is no reason why you cant sort out your brakes! Unfortunately, the only down side is that it does require a thread adapter to fit into the pump housing. The original M14 thread isn't supported these days in this type of manufacture so a short adapter will be used, but this doesn't affect its functioning or fitment. Now, as mentioned I have tested this well and I am happy with its ability to control the low pressure warning light system, the pump functioning and I also believe that due to the included pressure dampener, I feel the pedal has a more consistent feel to it also. Infact this was one of the first things I noticed...however I am massively OCD and do notice these things more than most! As mentioned on my previous post, I am hoping to put together a complete package which includes the switch and thread adapter, wiring and instructions on its fitment. I am currently attempting to source the correct wiring plug connector to enable its direct fitment straight into the existing wiring loom. I cant promise this will happen as it is slightly different from the standard AMP connectors, but I am still searching. This will enable an easier fitment with less wiring involved. As for price, this still needs to be discussed with the company involved and then I can let you know cost, and how to purchase.Im afraid Ive had a lot of other things going on at the moment so this isn't too high in my priority list but I am still working on it. Hope this news helps some folk out!
  2. 2 points
    Nope. It's not a Ford Escort mate. There's the Sport300 kit that SJ Sportscars sell, for better or worse but the Esprit is/was too rare for anyone produce anything.
  3. 1 point
    Hi guys. I had my V6 on order in a Ferrari colour Grigo Medio but ended up ordering my car in Pewter (a ford colour i believe) Grey after discovering, by total fluke, that they had done another customers car in this colour to save the additional 4 to 6 months of colour testing required by Lotus on a new shade. This saved me a lot of bother as the colours are v similar. I think it would be quite useful to start a thread/record of unusual or other manufactures colours that Lotus have actually used that `are not on the official palette. This may help us when ordering new cars in future? I will start proceedings with a Porsche gt3 viper green Evora. lets see what we can come up with
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    When I remember the advert right it was a special color, if you want more details maybe Stephan of Lotus München may help. [email protected], he sold the car for the first owner
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    Hi all, I've done my first little mod on my Evora this morning and raised the front of the seat base up to help support the back of my thighs and also feel like I am sitting in the seat rather than on. Here is a step by step guide below:- Tools:- 6mm Allen key 6mm Allen key bit and socket set Parts:- 10mm thick large washers or spacer with 8.5mm internal hole (aluminium preferable) 8mm x 40-45mm cap bolt (optional if owner want same depth of thread to fix into body) Time:- 20-30mins per side dependent on method Guide 1:- 1. First famialarise yourself with the seat base and locate the 4 cap bolts holding the runner to floor. 2. Using the seat base adjuster, slide the seat to it's most forward position and remove both the rear cap bolts using a 6mm socket drive. This makes undoing the bolts easier but if you don't have one then a 6mm Allen key is fine. 3. Now slide seat runner to it's most backward position and remove the two cap bolts. I had to use an Allen key as my socket drive wouldn't clear the underside of the seat. 4. Now carefully tilt the seat forwards or backwards and unclip the seat belt wiring harness. 5. You can remove seat from car, taking care not to scratch the leather sill or centre tunnel. I found that lifting the seat forward, then tilting the seat back makes the headrest clear the door frame. It's a little tricky so be careful! Now's your chance to vacuum the carpet under where the seat used to sit as you'll never get another chance! 6. Now remove the existing black washers from front holes only and retain these. We are going to reuse these and place them over our new ones. In my case, my new washers were taken from an existing Esprit I used to own and were mill finish aluminium. So placing the existing black washer over the new masks the shiny material and makes it look original. Place the two washers over the existing holes. 7. Refit the seat back into the car taking care of the leather and other materials that might get scratched. Guide the seat base runner and line up the holes over the holes of the washers. 8. Reinsert the cap bolts. I've used the existing ones as mine were approx 35mm long and there are still plenty of threads to hold the seat down, even with the new washers added. If you prefer, buy some new longer ones to suit. I loosely put all 4 bolts in first to make sure they all went into their retrospective holes without cross threading, as now the new installation is slightly on an angle. 9. Now tighten up cap bolts to the recommended torque settings. A word of warning, even to those who don't perform this mod, all of my bolts on my driver's side were only finger tight and came undone with no effort at all. One bolt was even loose! So please check yours as the driver's seat gets the most use. 10. Check to make sure seat base adjuster works OK and you have full movement both backwards and forwards. And that's the job complete! Guide 2 (takes half the time) 1. Using the seat base adjuster, slide the seat to it's most forward position and loosen (don't remove) both the rear cap bolts using a 6mm socket drive. This makes undoing the bolts easier but if you don't have one then a 6mm Allen key is fine. 2. Now slide seat runner to it's most backward position and remove the two cap bolts. I had to use an Allen key as my socket drive wouldn't clear the underside of the seat. 3. You can now tilt the seat back enough to lift the existing black washer up and slide your new washer/ spacer in underneath, making sure you line up all the holes. 4. Reinsert the cap bolts. I've used the existing ones as mine were approx 35mm long and there are still plenty of threads to hold the seat down, even with the new washers added. If you prefer, buy some new longer ones to suit. I loosely put all 4 bolts in first to make sure they all went into their retrospective holes without cross threading, as now the new installation is slightly on an angle. 5. Now tighten up cap bolts to the recommended torque settings. A word of warning, even to those who don't perform this mod, all of my bolts on my driver's side were only finger tight and came undone with no effort at all. One bolt was even loose! So please check yours as the driver's seat gets the most use. 6. Check to make sure seat base adjuster works OK and you have full movement both backwards and forwards. I hope this guide is beneficial to you guys and note, any modifications to you car is at your own risk. Before picture of seat After Picture showing seat tilted up at front all,
  8. 1 point
    A bit late but some interesting cars there; Still getting used to the shape of these but at least most seem to be bought in shades other than red; An actual Daytona, full marks to the owner for turning up to a little provincial show; Probably a nightmare to drive but Aeromaxes look cool; Nice M3 There is a massive Holden presence up here, these things sounded awesome Austin A35 pickup with racing history at Jim Clark's stomping grounds Gratuitous shot beneath a typical Fastlane sky;
  9. 1 point
    I still believe if there is one thing Dany done a good job with was the test track. If you look at the older pictures with grass growing through at parts you realise just how much work went into it. I think it really is something everyone should be proud of. Must also help Matt Becker and the handling guys do their jobs too. Buddsy


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