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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/04/15 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    This has just arrived to replace my Exige S To say i'm excited would be an understatement ! Sadly I have to wait until next Friday for the Ventureshield to be fitted....... Si
  2. 1 point
    Recently I changed my original exhaust cast iron exhaustcollector to a 4 in 1 stainless steel collector by SJ sportscars. The resonator had to go and in itsplace I welded a stainless steel flexible part that allows movement when the systems get hot or cools down. The muffler stayed the same. I do not know if this muffler is an original piece or not. This was the old system: This is the new 4 in 1 This is the inbetween tube with the welded in flexible: And here is the complete system in the car So after driving around for a while, I found that the system was very sporty , but just a bit to much (loud.) and on top of that, there was a rattle in the muffler, so I decided to open up the muffler to have a look. Inside I could see that the muffler is a 3 chamber piece. I am happy to notice that it has a very decent flow through, with the two perforated pipes inside ,each diameter of about 54mm. I think this system has very little backpressure and is very free breathing; I think its a "double S" muffler, but I dont know if it was originally installed on my Esprit Now I could see that the first plate, was broken in two and one half was just completely loose and rattling inside the muffler. Almost all the ceramic wool was blown out, so no wonder the exhaust was loud. I decided to repair it. So after cleaning up the parts inside (stainless steel) with pickle.I filled up the middle chamber with rockwool and welded back the plate. Instead of two tackwelds , I decided to weld around the perimeter and also to weld the tubes to the plate. After that I had to close the muffler and I decided to make an inner ring in stainless steel, so it would be easier to weld around the 1.5mm thick tube without blowing holes (I weld with electrodes, not with a tig welder, so 1.5mm is not easy). After that I could close up and weld around and I finished by cleaning up the complete stainless steel housing of the muffler. I took the car for a spin, and The sound became a bit quieter and muted, although still rough and sporty. I did not go in high revs because the streets were wet , and I do not want to trash the esprit. http://vid583.photobucket.com/albums/ss276/gvygvy/geluid%20esprit_zpsmzjpfhzg.mp4 Geert
  3. 1 point
    The sun is back in the south of Sweden just in time for Easter holiday. Went out for a couple of hours driving earlier today. Below are two shots.
  4. 1 point
    Bloody hell Ok - here we have an example of sleep-posting. Like sleep-walking'and 'sleep talking' I have no recollection of when, why and for what reason. Posting in my sleep ! That a new one. Posting before 6 am is a cue! Can this thread be deleted (or kept for comedic value!)
  5. 1 point
    So I made it to edinburgh. Sat in holiday inn express at the Airport. One sleep to go.
  6. 1 point
    I owned an XJS with Ivory leather interior...it also had a black dash top.
  7. 1 point
    Hi Guys, Just had some good news, Goodwood have accepted my LF1 to be part of their Supercar Sunday setup in the infield on May 3rd for one of their Breakfast Clubs Anyone else going? Never been to one of these before, they are also doing a Soft top Breakfast Club in June which I've entered the Elan for so fingers crossed.
  8. 1 point
    Reflecting on yesterdays drive and the car park space at the hotel 300 miles and over 6 hours in the Elise yesterday and a chunk of traffic jams, it was so much more comfortable than I exepected it to be, so that's 1250 miles in 18 days of ownership, the run service is next week..... But what an addictive car to drive
  9. 1 point
    All the width, but THREE tailpipes?...
  10. 1 point
    What you need to do is grind away all of the damaged and burned fiberglass as well as any other damaged areas and all cracks need to ground down to eliminate them. Then find some resin and fiberglass matting or cloth and repair the damaged area till they are at least the same thickness as the original was. Gel coat is the top coat like a hard top shell coating to make for a smooth finish one can paint. Gel-coat also eliminate the glass fiber telescoping through the matt fibers when you paint it. I use a product call duraglass which hardens like concrete so no need to apply gel coat. Does the same thing. It is made for fiberglass repair and works very nicely. It can be difficult to work IF you let it fully cure before filing off just like you would do with bondo. You will need to shape it before it completely cures out which is easy to do with a coarse flat file or 36 grit sand paper. Once you have the glass fiber built up to desired level, then ruff up surface with sand paper for a tooth that the duraglas can adhere to and skin coat the entire area with duraglas and shape smooth with a file and sand paper. Fiber glass matt is stronger but won't give you as smooth of surface as easy as cloth will so that is why I use fiber glass matt with a duraglas skim coat before primer and paint. duraglas https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1ASUM_enUS513US513&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=duraglas%20body%20filler fiber glass matt http://www.fibreglast.com/category/Fiberglass_Mat Then get an aluminum skinned heat shield to protect the part from heat so this won't happen again. There are a lot of products out there that you can use to keep everything cooler. Aluminum dissipates heat the fastest of any metals so this is usually found on one side of heat shields that faces the heat if you use a blanket type shield. I skin coated my entire Elites body after repairing all the damaged stress cracks and other body damage to produce a very smooth and straight body unlike the factory put out back in 1974. I have over 500 hours in my paint. hard to afford if you don't do it yourself. lol ATB Richard
  11. 1 point
    Remember this: THEY'RE ALL VERY OLD. And that means everything on the car. It's not just running gear that deteriorates, it's everything. Just because it has covered less miles doesn't mean it's a 'better' car. One that's been properly looked after by a decent owner (and God knows I saw some expensive rubbish when I looked around) is arguably a better bet than a lower mileage car that's been neglected. Vanya has it spot on - these are expensive cars to run properly. They need careful, and regular maintenance, and as most things are a complete pain in the arse to get to, that maintenance can tend to get by-passed. Just sayin'.....
  12. 1 point
    Keep looking at my Elite S2 project sat on the yard.....and wondering if it will ever be done. I've stopped the leaks to the interior but the damage was done decades ago and it needs a proper job doing which could be ages away. My current job pays peanuts compared to last one and with 1 kid at Uni and one off there next year realistically a restoration is 5 years away. Trouble is it's gorgeous, I could just have it around the garden as piece of modern art!
  13. 1 point
    Stephen, Don't get over concerned on the Esprit, this sort of issue may be new to you but is old hat to those who know them... An experienced Esprit man should be able to evaluate your problem thoroughly, provide a solution and the costs involved without dramatics. It basic mechanics to the trade.. There is no reason why the box should be damaged if it was fine before... The thrust bearing disintegration in pic's I have seen a few times.. This has two causes.. One of these would make me check the back lash on the crank, If that is fine then its a simple basic fix... fit new or recon parts job done... No dramatics.. The clutch fork issue is a strange one with no consistency on failure. Some last 100k miles and still going, others .. well.!!! ...It would be interesting to get a batch reference on the failed units to see if there is any connection.. On the job front... I wish you well on your hunt for a new position... And always be positive... Remember to Concentrate on the solution not the problem.. FOCUS.,... good luck... Dave
  14. 1 point
    Just made me laugh - clicky
  15. 1 point
    The screw at the end of the worm gear will adjust the end float on the motor, rather than change the pod position.
  16. 1 point
    Thanks again guys, I'm putting it down to experience, I wouldn't overly recommend the metal garages anyway due to the condensations problem, wood seems to breath far better. Its a shame though as we are renting at the moment and probably for the next couple of years so it would have been handy if the metal one had lasted till we moved out, I guess at least with a quality wood one you can take it with you, there is no way you could dismantle the metal type once up, unless mother nature has her way, she made it look easy
  17. 1 point


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