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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/08/19 in all areas

  1. 004 was suppose to be at the Silverstone Classic the other Sunday but decided to stay at home with the weather forecast not looking good, been sat in the garage ever since waiting for somewhere to go so this morning put in an appearance at a local classic event at Ilkeston Town Centre Market Place - 20 mins away.
    4 points
  2. Hi Guys and Gals, I'm now on my 3rd Esprit but new to this forum. I had a lovely Silver S2 back in 97, unfortunately it caught fire in 1998. I then purchased a Red S1 but sold it due to moving to the States in late 99. I have now just bought 505H and its about to leave California. It's a 77 Monaco white S1 that's been stored for the last 27 years. The car looks pretty solid, no rust that I can see but it needs a fair amount of work. The Plan is to keep it LHD but get rid of the Federal bits and bobs plus delete the sunroof and get the interior back to factory look. I have restored quite a few cars and I'm lucky enough to have my own workshop with a 2 post lift. I guess it would be better to drop a UK 2.2 engine in the car and keep the existing matching numbers engine to one side. It looks like it would take a lot of money to bring the engine up to Euro spec. If anyone has a factory steering wheel, engine cover and airbox for sale please PM me. Right, off to read some S1 restoration blogs.
    2 points
  3. Hi All, I'm seriously thinking of getting an Evora for my daily commuter car. I have always been a lotus fan but the closest I have been to date is a vx220 a few years ago. Was looking to buy a boring eurobox to commute in then it struck me with the super slow depreciation and half decent mpg of an evora it could actually be a sensible (ish) choice. I have only briefly sat in one at a track day but was impressed with the space and comfort (and I am quite a tall chap) Bit of a long shot but is there anyone in Hertfordshire or north lo son sort of area that could spare me 10 mins to have a proper look at an Evora in the flesh? I can bring biscuits and I'm not that weird... Thanks Dan
    2 points
  4. I have choose a water based paint and it looks stunning. Non original black would be not a problem for me.
    2 points
  5. A little more work today. All the Abs has gone other than wiring, never to be seen again on the car. Ian Lord's replacement servo system is being fitted. Last light pod has also been removed today. Notice the enlarged drain hole, something I did years ago to stop the water collecting in the pod housings. I was under the car Saturday at the front removing the lower front spoiler lip and under body shields. Most bolts are rusted to hell, so will need to invest in some extractor sockets, as some nuts are just round now. Getting the nuts off that are holding the front top edge of the bumper on is proving to be fun. I've managed to get one nut off so far, the others are mostly round. I think this is will be one of the hardest jobs on the whole car, at least the back bumper is easier to get to all the nuts. I've invested in more zip lock bags as well to store and label up all the parts as they come off. Also I'm breaking those bags down into sectional bags, so will be so much easier when rebuilding again know what part of the car they are from. Once a few of the under-body panels are off, I think things should start to be easier to work on. you just have to keep plugging away.
    2 points
  6. My ten cents; you've upgraded the fit and finish all over the body so non standard paint is no biggie.
    2 points
  7. Resprayed in a nice tough matt black in order to match the rear diffuser better 😁
    2 points
  8. Finally decided to tackle the headlining on 713D After reading up all I could find about replacing the headlining, I decided it was time to take the plunge an go forwards.I had ordered material from Woolies some 15 years ago, although dry stored, is was no better than the original headlining that was dangling from the car roof.Lotusbits supplied the one in the photographs. Close enough to the original, and will make the car look tidy again.Before starting, all seats were removed, just so I could get confortable. Once the old lining removed and the area cleaned up, i measured not only the roof of the car, but also the dimensions of the material removed.On the roof, where the back section fits, I can clearly read: “713D” chassis number “VR” Vinyl roof, and “GOLD” the car colour. The photos have been touched up to show this. Handwriting has been added for visibility Handwriting has been added for visibility The dimension are as follows: Rear section: 1180mm x 490mm Glue zone 1130mm x 480mm The back foam strip is not included ( 25mm wide x 1000mm long) must have been an inch originally. Front section: 1180mm x 600mm Glue Zone 1160mm x 560mm Roll bar section: 220mm x 1270mm The parts were cut and make fro glue to be applied. I used a Würth Spray (power spray glue plus) max resistance 110C. The nozzle is adjustable, to set the spray width. https://eshop.wuerth.de/Product-categories/Power-spray-adhesive-Plus/14013005041702.cyid/1401.cgid/en/US/EUR/ Application to the roof was simple and I would even say can be done without masking of the windows. Application to the material on the bench is also easy, I used a cardboard guide to avoid over spray. To transport the material to the car interior, I used an old cardboard poster roll. I pre-marked both the material and car centres (back and forwards). roll to carry matrial, coated in glue Bonded the centre line, then used a foam roller to put everything onto place.Much simpler, than at first anticipated. The roll bar cover was also a lot more straight forward than expected. I supported the PVC moulding on my vise, applied glue on both sides and fitted the material. The grills were refined using hot glue…not a preferred engineering solution, but suitable for this application. Need to finish off the front piece and rear side pieces, and we should be good for another 40 years ! All for the moment. N.
    1 point
  9. Miles. Bar the first 8k, all mine. 7 years.
    1 point
  10. To me.....Lotus doesn't need to be current and right on trend with it's logo.......it's about the history in the badge........not the latest design....... When was the last time Ferrari, Lamborghini, Bentley, Porsche....and the other top end brands that they wish to be along side .....change their logos???? The prancing horse,.....The bull,.....The wings.....etc...... Did it need to been resigned........I'm sure Colin was happy with it and it's been kept similar for 70 years.....apart from the couple of years they tried a green lozenge thing........and that looked awful......... Just my own personal view........but when I next buy a new lotus......if they tell me it's going to have that badge on......I will ask for the old badge to be applied.....and if not possible would rather have it debadged.........of get some n if I of ones from eBay..........they'll be the Chinese copy I'm happy with.......
    1 point
  11. @RobinB5 Thank you for taking the time to read the post. The tools I used were very much old school algorithms/ equations. However when I was consulted by Alunox and noticed their primaries were the same size as my calculations we formed a mutual interest. How Alunox arrived at the sizes was not discussed. I must stress the calculations I used gave only an initial approximation to work from , as constant variable pulsing flow has its challenges.. We also needed to consider the pressure waves travelling in front of each pulse at circa 750 mph and how they react/ invert or nullify within the design. On top of all that you need to take into account the velocity as this will determine the low pressure zone on the back of each pulse and how it interacts with any pressure waves at certain RPM.. Because we have a constantly increasing and decreasing volume, pulse sizes /pressures and velocities , a full range of calculations are needed . The size of the Primary tube are so important to get correct to cover the full range of flow needed without creating to much or to little back pressure. To much can cause detonation, poor cylinder evacuation , excessive EGT and drop in performance .. To little can cause a lack of velocity again effecting cylinder evacuation and VE.. Its only when you do high volume flow practical testing you start to refine the calculations and get a feel for how its going to pan out.. .. But as stated this does not account for pulse flow , that gets calculated in after.. It was only when I introduced the Volumes my engine was going to produce in comparison to std unit that we had a difference in sizing.. this was at the collectors/ secondaries.. As the pulses converged two into one the original Alunox set up was to restricted for my engine at high RPM . This would cause the pulses to compress and their velocity would drastically increase . This in turn would introduce back pressure, the siphoning effect on the collector would then be drastically reduced or cancelled . This is where my design on the collectors came in .. they were sized to create a consistent flow dynamic without stepping up so much as to introduce unwanted pressure wave inversion. I was also using single scroll turbo so the intersection needed better flow streamlining. A couple of pics following will show how that area changed.. I must say with all the computer modeling tools/ programs available , it will make this sort of design quicker and easier to quantify. Interestingly I part used Fluid Dynamics when calculating the induction side , the computations seemed to suit the application better. However Just taking the manifolds and measuring flow comparisons will give you very little useful data for reasons previously stated.. You must also use the given engines exhaust volume to produce the test range parameters, remembering the exhaust volume has a direct correlation with induction performance/ boost / VE etc.. In short its one huge balancing act... Good luck with you studies.
    1 point
  12. A little update . The exhaust started to be a bit louder again . So time to check the experiment and open up the muffler. I noticed that there was a small hole where the tube enters the muffler. This has nothing to do with the fact that it is made repackable, but was caused by an old repair. So I had some welding to do. But back to the experiment: I openend up the exhaust and indeed, there was a lot of rockwool missing. It wasn't empty, but a lot was gone. After inspection, I noticed that where the rockwool gets hot ( around the perforated tubes ) the fibres are becoming very fine and brittle ( almost like dust), so it is evident that they are blown away rather quick. To be honest, I expected it So the new plan was to buy some exhaust packing material in a motorcycle store on line. That was the plan, but I have no patience, so I started a new plan with materials I had lying around. 20190811_180711 by gvygvy, on Flickr I wrapped heatresistant heatwrap around the two perforated innertubes, before repacking with the rockwool. It looks like the stuff that is used as exhaust wrap, but it is an industrial product used as insulation around steampipes. Before using it I made sure that it is really heatresistant, so I used the open flame from a gas blowtorch on it for some time....perfect. The idea is that this layer is very resistant and will not just blow out and it works as an insulator against the rockwool that is not touching the perforated pipes and in order to prevent the rockwool fibres from blowing out. I also want to try a different approach as a gasket to close up the muffler. The heatresistent silicone had done a good job. It stayed sealed , but it took some time to remove it and open up, so this time I want to use a roll of flexible self adhesive gasket, to test if this makes opening and closing more easy. The silicone sealed well but takes some time to remove and clean. picture of the wrapped perforated tubes, before I started filling with rockwool. 20190810_133722 by gvygvy, on Flickr And at last I use some exhaust clamps to close up this time. This allows me to open up and close, just using a spanner. 20190811_181059 by gvygvy, on Flickr So let the test begin. The car sounded a lot more dampened again, so that is perfect. Let's see if the rockwool will stay in a bit longer this time. If not....I order some motorcycle 4 takt exhaust dampening whool.....
    1 point
  13. Absolutely fantastic cars. Not sure about the good mpg bit - as the loud peddle is sooo much fun 👍
    1 point
  14. They are truly stunning cars - If you’ve not driven one yourself yet, you must! The scare yourself sensible day at Hethel is a great day out where you can drive both Exige and Evora, have a factory tour together with a look around the classic Lotus where Clive Chapman operates out of.
    1 point
  15. It's current and right on trend, everything's flat and looks like a stock vector these days, that's just what's considered cool. The yellow and green have moved into contemporary shades too. I'd imagine it's almost instantly adaptable for various applications - illumination, print, digital. It jarred me at first but I love it and the idea that they took the visual weight out of the badge, works for me.
    1 point
  16. 30.000 miles that is Thanks Harry please quote me, delivery to South Africa
    1 point
  17. The snapring fits in a recess in the input shaft (I mean the mainshaft in the geargox itself) and would sit on the shoulder at the end of the splines (under spring tension) . Thats a pretty nasty input shaft. Maybe better biting the bullet and replace it. I'd remove the top cover of the box and check that not too much contamination has entered via the input shaft scroll drain tube into the bellhousing
    1 point
  18. Looks great. Can you share a better picture of your carbon steering wheel column cover with the carbon instrument panel cover? I am thinking about doing the same. It's around €500, not sure yet if it is worth the extra bucks..
    1 point
  19. I am sadly. Time to try something else fun. I haven’t chosen anything specific just yet. It’ll be front engine, rear wheel drive, with a bit less grip. Haven’t had anyone interested in the Exige ring me up yet though...
    1 point
  20. Hi, correct. Imho and for what I have read and heard before the circlip is essential. The springload is to big for the circlip. The input shaft is pushed forward and than the nylon thrustwasher will fail and input shaft starts drilling it's way into crank shaft. This issue never happens in Citroen SM or DS because bearing in flywheel is ball bearing an no nylon ring. Better install upgrade circlip. cheers, Harry Martens
    1 point
  21. Finding ways to making the Lotus badge more aspirational and desireable to a wider audience is essential if Lotus are going to deliver Geely's ambition for the brand. I'm not convinced this new logo achieves much towards that end, it looks cheaper and less premium to me but I accept it will work better online and on social media where logos are often typically tiny compared to say print ads and more traditional media - the main reason many big brands are going for more simple, flatter logos. It's already working better online compared to the previous logo which loses detail when very small on screen. But this does seem like the tail wagging the dog to me. I find the CABC intials to be an inelegant design but I'm relieved that they are still there at all! I only hope the 'old' badge will still be an option for the nose of the next generation cars. I've invested in it heavily with emotions over the years!
    1 point
  22. Who cares about the badge - when’s the new Esprit available?
    1 point
  23. Most car companies have tweaked their logos multiple times over the years. https://listcarbrands.com/all-car-logo-history-evolution/ Compared to some of those, Lotus has hardly changed at all.
    1 point
  24. TechyD, thank you for your courteous response. I'm pleased that we now seem to have more about which to agree than disagree - not to mention our love of Lotus. I have a couple of friends with Evoras and one day I mean to have one! Richard
    1 point
  25. That’s bloody amazing! Some really great playing. Move over Satch
    1 point
  26. The world's average temperature has been very consistent over the past 2,000 years (as reconstructed through various methods, e.g. ice core samples, sensitive isotope variations etc., all showing very similar results) with all the temperature variations (including the Little Ice Age) falling within less than a 1°C range. There was a gentle rise, following the Little Ice Age. Since 1900, however, that rise has been unprecedented, i.e. there has most certainly not been a gradual rise since the Little Ice Age, and the evidence suggests this very much 'is' to do with anthropogenic CO2 emissions... Once the rise over the past century has been factored in, we have to say that the temperature variations over the past 2,000 years now fall within 1.4°C; that's a colossal difference caused just over the past century alone. This coincides with the sharp rise in CO2 levels. The CO2 levels 'were' at 4% in 2015 (equates to 400ppm); they now look set to top 415ppm in 2019. They were at 369ppm in 2000; 353pppn in 1990; 328ppm in 1980 and at around 300ppm - 3% of the atmosphere - just before 1900. From, 200-1,000 years ago, they fell within a few points of 2.8%; in fact the only other time CO2 levels topped 300ppm/3% of the atmosphere within the past 800,000 years was around 330,000 years ago, which conicided with a global rise in temperature.
    1 point
  27. Run 29psi/2.0bar front, 32psi/2.2bar rear - I think the same as the manual for PS4’s, works well on the road, didn’t like it with the higher pressures that were listed for Pirellis
    1 point
  28. It’s because climate change is more accurate, global warming is one aspect of it but the climate is more complex than that and so the reference has been changed to reflect that. With the research and satellite tracking now in place and monitoring, crucially we’re able to track and differentiate the “man-made” aspect away from natural trends. Of a related tangent. One recent example of the climate monitoring shows the banned CFC-11 gas still coming from regions of China where it’s being used (but not proven to have been manufactured there). The most recent data shows the temperature trend over the last 400,000 years has operated within a constrained range and now we’ve blasted through that barrier.... Climate change: Current warming 'unparalleled' in 2,000 years https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-49086783
    1 point
  29. The automatic tensioner is only semi automatic! It does not prevent either under tensioning or over tensioning. It needs setting on changing belts and should be checked periodically. My hunch is that it was originally designed to allow between cold & hot engine, which has a significant impact on th belt tension. As CarBuff says, an overtensioned cambelt will whine.
    1 point
  30. Terrace of three thatch cottages, I believe that we saved the brick walls🤔
    0 points
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