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Showing content with the highest reputation on 23/12/19 in all areas

  1. Heaven atop Col D’Aubisque. 410 Sport in Military Grey.
    7 points
  2. All exiges are arguably track focussed I guess but the 430 is just the most focussed of them all, and for me the best looking/most aggressive. i have found myself just opening the garage for a quick look at it!
    3 points
  3. Hello all. New here. I got this beauty a couple of months ago. It's getting more and more difficult to not drive it all the time. This was at a Cars and Coffee meet. Photo credit goes to my very talented relative.
    3 points
  4. With caymans and Alpine A110 starting at gbp 46 k (eur 50k ish) then it basically gives you the answer where you need it o start a 4 cylinder 2 seater sports car. if you want to start higher, either you have a car fully loaded so it comes cheaper than the above with options or yoh make sure they are positioned above (so basically a faster more powerful engine). If it is a V6, this is immediately more expensive and potentially a smaller market plus not the easiest to fit with emission rules.
    2 points
  5. Looks amazing!! What a fantastic setting!
    2 points
  6. Okay, so a new set of Nitron NTS 40 road version arrived here. I can add that the springrate is 50N/mm on all four corners, and that the helper springs rear are 15 N/mm. Adjusting collars are not gold anodised but grey as the damper bodies themselves. Looks very nice. Adjusting knob are on top on all four dampers, and are not blue anodised but black. They have short travel between clicks and a very distinct click to them, so feels nice. I won't be driving with them untill Spring, so cannot comment till' then on how they perform and with the 50 springrate on my Turbo SE 1990 model. We'll see. As ca be seen on the picture, there are a few parts accompanying the set, which is not shown in the advertising. This is two upper helperspring platforms and a nicely made springbase adjustment tool. I haven't measured up the distances for the mounting bushings (below), nut those delivered in the set are very nicely made to shape and are offset for the rear dampers. One ned to buy new bolts, nuts, washers and four sets of damper bush kits, A082C6036F, which is used both front and rear.
    2 points
  7. I actually have a xmas jumper with that design. 🙂 My better halve has a similar one: Always gets a conversation started at the office xmas party. 🙂 And we both wore them when going to see The Rise of Skywalker (things got bloody hot in the theatre!). 🤓
    2 points
  8. Funny you say that @Bibs!!!
    2 points
  9. I went out for a little run earlier. The gear learning mode is a breeze and seems completely seamless. Set it going via the menu, go for a litle drive and after a couple minutes it's done. I'm trying to work out whether I prefer the analogue or digital (horizontal bar) rpm readout. Digital has a lot of dead space when driving on the road, but the analogue one doesn't look all that great to me, and annoyingly it decides to show you revs in a live number too, which I find a bit distracting. I'll stick to digital for now. Shift lights are nice and bright but I think come on a little early by default at 5200rpm. I need to reset more to what i had on my Solo2DL. Otherwise I'd like to see a cruise control tell-tale light and an exhaust flap message when I hit the button, both of which i believe will be addressed. OMG that plastic!!!111
    2 points
  10. All in and working today
    2 points
  11. Hello, I am happy to join this forum. I do have an Exige 380 GP Edition. This year, I installed the Nitron 3 ways kit. And in February, Komotec will install several upgrades: - work490 😁 - close ratio - Quaife LSD - Lightweigth flying wheel + clutch Cheers
    1 point
  12. I managed to get the heater connector that was missing from mine (thanks @Nellie) It was a bit battered but I managed to straighten it out sufficiently to use. (I knew about it before Neil sent it). I've now overhauled the heater (new foam and paint) and the motors and its looking good! I have sourced some generic heater cables and made the ends match the originals and used the originals to get the correct length.
    1 point
  13. Here's a few pictures I should have put up ages ago since our move from the south of England to the Scottish Highlands. I've been quite busy during all this time, honest! Robin's Rescue: Where's my new garage going to be?!
    1 point
  14. @Mattmahope Matt my friend you're over thinking and getting worse than me! Just go see Daniel at KT
    1 point
  15. Ha thats funny, i live about 2 miles from greg, i sure i heard some swearing earlier :) Clio 182 are fun this is my second. i through it in for a cheeky MOT today, just to see what it failed on... it passed, after a tweaking of the horn wire.. insured on a multi policy so just taxed it for the month.. track day just book :)
    1 point
  16. I have a pair of HKS BOVs and think they can only help reduce stress on the turbos.
    1 point
  17. Hi Andy, they do look good... May I have a pair in primer so I can have for my Esprit... 🙂 Also, I would be interested to see how you actually mount them on the car when you have done that - also interested to see how yours end up Fabian... I ideally want a solution where they are not bolted permanently to the tailgate...
    1 point
  18. Weekend update !! on Saturday I put another 200 km which brings the total to about 400 km after the engine build.. I drove up to 3500 rpm and it was a lot of fun... The car idles well, the engine pulls hard, there is some vibration Between 2500-3000 rpm when I try in 5th to accelarate, but I think that it is normal... There is also some turbo lag between 2900-3200 rpm... I still haven’t revved the engine over 4000 rpm so I don’t know how strong it will pull there.. With regards to traffic driving I have avoided it, but still I use the on switch for the radiator fans just to be safe.. (we installed one before because in the warm climate the engine was overheating) Has to do something with the incline positioning and size of Lotus radiator.. When I finish the break in of my engine I will reconnect the Blow Off Valves.. What do you guys think BOV or no BOV ?
    1 point
  19. Thanks. I'm not sure we've properly meet in person as I've not attended the bike events. But I was at the Lotus 70 event where you're car and bike were on display. 😁 I was there in the Exige and unable to get my bike there despite wanting to. I had my son with me and wasn't going to invest in a seasucker for a one-off occasion. I 'm known in the 110 club though and was one of the first bikes registered as the club was set up. I used to race mine in the early 2000's era as a junior before I went to being a sponsored pro as a senior where the bike was retired as a sentimental piece of wall art. Hope to see you somewhere in the near future. 🙂
    1 point
  20. Hi all, and Happy Christmas! I have already posted on the Evora section but just reposting here to widen the group. Please feel free to merger posts or similar if required. Anyway, I am very close to pulling the trigger on the TVS1900 for my Exige. I am hoping that you guys can alleviate one last small concern I have... The TVS1900 is obviously a lot bigger than the standard 1320 unit, and even quite a bit larger than the 410/430 supercharger. From an entirely uneducated random survey of other cars, it seems like 1900cc on a 3.5l engine is perhaps a little “oversized”. As we all know, the bigger the charger, the greater the parasitic loss. My question is whether you notice this at all? Does the engine still want to rev freely and chase the red line, or is it more of “lazy” torque monster? I appreciate that it is all relative of course - the V6 is no 4 pot screamer to begin with. But I guess I want to understand how the kit will change the characteristics of the engine more than just knowing what headline figures I can expect. Thanks in advance!
    1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. Can't say I have noticed any 'laziness' in the engine character compared to standard. Yes you can 'make progress' using the torque rather than revving it out, and I find I don't chase the red line so much since the conversion. Then again, I love how the car performs and still have a clean licence (touches wood). Where are you planning on getting it done?
    1 point
  23. Update: on the plus side - the car is running again. On the minus side - I ditched the new starter and went back to the original (which works, it turns out)... for now. Regarding the new starter and required wiring, it appears that capping off the coil wire is not correct. That said, I found conflicting info on what to do with it: Lotus Marques has a Q/A on a very similar/same(?) starter for the early Esprit and its wiring here. It says, "These two cables should be connected together and secured to the single solenoid terminal," referring to the two light-duty wires to the ignition switch and coil. (anecdotally, my car's wire colors match those of the Esprit, not those found in the Elite workshop manual - I suspect there has been some rewiring at some point in the past). BritishStarters.com shows, on the product page for the Eclat starter (link) that, "If your car is a '3 Wire Hookup', the screw terminal on the backside of the starter is where that 3rd wire goes. Typically, it is an extra wire coming directly from the coil to give the starter extra juice for cold starts." I assume that the "screw terminal on the backside" is the one labeled "Ballast Resistor Bypass Wire Attaches Here" in the attached image. I *believe* that either solution will work, but I the second seems more correct (or at least more elegant). As for my starter, the reason why it cranked but never started ended up being caused by a ground wire from the Lumenition power module. With the original starter, the power module was grounded to a small bolt on the starter. The new starter doesn't have a provision for grounding like that, so I chose a different ground... I chose poorly. I only discovered this after backtracking to get back to a semi-working state which involved reinstalling the old starter, and wiring everything back up as it was before I started -- replacing questionable terminal connectors as I went. Turns out my problem had always been bad wiring, so with new connectors and a replacement wire or two, the old starter worked like a charm. When I re-wire the car, I'll likely reinstall the new starter after finding a better ground for the Lumenition power module, but for now, I'm up and running on original equipment.
    1 point
  24. Just finished watching this on Sky, it was excellent and well recommended.
    1 point
  25. Good to see @Arun_D earlier and measure up his Cup R wing, gives me a good baseline now to be able to accurately design my new wing...
    1 point
  26. With the festive season upon us and the New Year nearly here I thought I would look to improve on the aesthetics of my Cup 430 in 2020. I am very happy with the basics but looking at improving : The standard rear transom, painting the charge cooler cover from Red to either yellow or Vivid Green, having the front clam bonnet air vents clad in Carbon ala: McLarens ( awaiting info on this ) , possibly also looking to replace the Matt black front and rear roof pillar covers and the black protection below the side intakes . Anything else ?? The car has overall behaved impeccably in over 18 months with no rattles or squeaks and having it full ceramic coated with additional PPF has preserved the paintwork as new. I wish my McLaren had faired so well !!
    1 point
  27. My Evora was delivered a year ago today. It was driven down by Bibs to Devon from somewhere near Stanstead in unrelenting torrential rain that lasted all day. The message I had on route was - car goes really well but because of the weather I’ll keep it to under 130mph 🤣 Dark when he arrived but looked stunning. The arrival mileage was 7700 and after a year it’s on 10200 (get out and drive it I hear you say) It does get driven but I’m putting 50k on other cars so it’s events and shows only really. Loved the last year and have just renewed AIG Insurance today on a 4K limited mileage policy (£581.79 including brake down and with zero excess) I will be doing more mileage next year as two European trips already booked in for (Classic Le Mans and then a month later Germany/Switzerland/Italy heading through the Alps. Now parked up in the garage, cover and trickle charger on but some of my favourite pics attached from the last 12 months. 😁👍 Glad to report I have had no issues what so ever and zero costs other than a service and a tire. Still loving this car.
    1 point
  28. Let's put the next Tesla rapid charging station on that flood plain over there, What could possibly go wrong 😁.
    1 point
  29. Lovely car, they really get under your skin. See you’re in Macclesfield, I’m in Ramsbottom, if you ever fancy a meet up or drive out with Cup 079 let me know.
    1 point
  30. Just to confirm that the 220 Sport with revised exhaust was fine at Bedford 👍
    1 point
  31. So that would make Kimbers (and I) aligned against Darth Vader.
    1 point
  32. Here’s my new (to me) 410 in Elise Grey with carbon roof and yellow accents It’s my 5th Lotus in a row over the course of 11 years, it’s absolutely bloody fantastic and my favourite car of all. Love it!
    1 point
  33. That is the perfect attitude to owning any unnecessary fun car. If you worry and begrudge maintenance spend, you just end up spoiling the thrill of ownership. Always buy the fun car you can afford to run. Be it a hot hatch, sports car, supercar or classic. Justin
    1 point
  34. Sascha @Komotec showing me the last Evora GTE during my visit yesterday! Great shop!
    1 point
  35. Haha - not helped by autocorrect there! Can you cut the cable a re-terminate the connector basically - they answer is yes from what I have seen It will make life much simpler for routing, though you will have to solder some plugs, which I doubt you will struggle with So I've tried to work it out for when I do it, you've probably already fixed these problems and will probably want to do it a different way, but the though process may help. The dash uses 712 5 Pin connectors for the data, so you can simply make up an extension cable - but importantly by being able to terminate in the car, you can get through a smaller hole, install the cable and then terminate. If you don't mind soldering, that's what I would do. The connectors you need are, 712 5 Pin male into the dash (https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/industrial-automation-circular-connectors/1902447/😞 And then at the other end a 712 5 pin female (https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/industrial-automation-circular-connectors/1152944/ Then you can make a simple extension cable with a 5 strand wire whatever the length you want, can place the boxes where you want and all that jazz. Now placement options are opened up would actually located the boxes a little differently, bear with me... So by the method you said you would have hidden or on the dash: Dash GPS Datahub Two cables from datahub out of the dash, connecting to: SmartyCam Channel Expander Which then connect to sensor in the engine bay: Oil Pressure Oil Temp Gerbox temp etc Obviously this all works, but it would leave two ports on the data hub 'stranded' and if you want to add a lambda you are back doing this all again to route them in, and you'd also be pushing more cables out from the cabin to engine bay. So as an alternative: Hidden or on the dash: Dash GPS Two cables through the dash connecting the Dash Data Port and the GPS to: Datahub, which connect to the SmartyCam in the cabin Then a second cable going from data hub through to the engine bay, which connects to the Channel Expender on to Oil Pressure Oil Temp Gerbox temp etc So the second method means you have no spare ports trapped behind the dash, two cables going through the dash as before, and a single cable to the engine bay, it would look like this: So for the routing, I would go either two cable round the air vent panel like this (its passenger side but you get the idea, just swap it for drivers side): OR There is a small cap circled in red that will get you through and then loop back into the clocks, there are other gaps there but many look too close to the steering column for my liking and I wouldn't want the column to get caught on a cable OR You can go through the look into the HVAC controls circled in yours in green, just remove that plastic shelf: the front view here: Then drill out the back to get to the footwell (my least preferred option) Then route to the drivers foot rest and follow this path with both cables: Then mount the data hub somewhere here: Run a cable to the Smartycam (I presume you are bolting to your harness bar), then another cable back down to the bottom of the rear wall behind the handbrake, follow the handbrake cable out and you are under the fuel talk. Its this hole here, red wire in there to make it more obvious: From there mount the Channel Expander in the engine bay and plug your sensors in there. You can also run a couple of spares to go back to the data hub, so you can add another data hub in the engine bay in the future or directly to the internal hub - I believe the lambda sensors need to go to the data hub not expander. Thats how I would do it anyway, keeps ports accessible for the future and would be easiest to run. As an alternative you can remove the bulkhead cover and go via the main loom, your panel should be much easier to remove then mine as we have have different harness bars and mine makes remove quite a mission! If you want a rear view cam for reversing you will have to go direct into the dash, but you may be able to add another smartycam to the data hub - instructions aren't clear Hope that all makes sense!
    1 point
  36. At home in Arizona on a beautiful December evening.
    1 point
  37. I bet theres some full on chair envy that goes on in there.
    1 point
  38. Being very sympathetic to those who have flooded, but also interested in how the area looked, here's Teston, Yalding and the caravan park appropriately named 'Little Venice' close to me.
    0 points
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