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First seat finished in leather and vinyl per OEM methods, new Pirelli webbing, foam supplemented where broken down in the hip area.

Taken at the factory, no doubt before it headed off to Switzerland. Love it in white!

...and not a daily driver!

I'm around 4,000 (ish)

I found this fascinating: http://www.1994f1.com/2020/01/06/pedro-lamys-1994-silverstone-testing-accident/

Leather is used in all surfaces typically in contact with the occupant's body, so top surface of seat cushion and bolsters right out to the edge, the headrest choker, and the headrest including its sides for appearance sake I suppose. The vinyl (PVC) therefore is seen on the seat flanks and the very top of the headrest only, with that covering the backside of seat not shown in the photo. This is the form in which my S2 was originally trimmed. Cheers

Approx 4500kms...mostly track mileage!

As it is with my wife, so it is with my daughter who feared driving the Evora lest something untoward might happen on her watch. But I know they secretlywant to drive it so I always insist they try her out. I know how they'll feel once they have driven it. That big smile came after her first drive in the hills. Now when she visits, she asks for keys!

Hi everyone I am new to this forum and this is my first message. As a keen collector of Bond cars, I recently acquired a nice white Lotus Esprit S1 to add to my collection. Although the car is originally english (it's a RHD), it is am import from another european country. She arrived safe in London where I live last week. This vehicle is in decent condition (pictures attached) for her age, but I still would like to do a complete check as the car has not been driven a lot in the last 10 years and there are a few things that need fixing (the rear gear is very hard to find and there seems t

on exotic location in, erm, Penzance Sainsbury’s car park.

Was going to stop for a quick bounce but didn’t have time.

Car dragged across the field, which is an utter quagmire, back in the garage by Nobbys A4 4x4 thingy. Turbo technics have diagnosed the turbo failure due to oil contamination - with water they seem to think. Oil is clean as the day it was put in - on the dipstick, at sump drain and the filler - I’ve explained the failure mode to them and they’ve now gone back to re-examine and test the turbo as it’s possible something else is wrong they don’t routinely check for. Turbo is repairable and not overly expensive. So just need to do some common sense checks on the car - like oil supply lines an

see what happens this time then

questions sent to eliseparts with also more details about the installation and where to installs the pipes. as I understand after 4 years, hardware is important but if you don't have the good advices, knowledges, feedbacks it's complicated to "take the plunge". (and this is why I am really grateful to the TLF and members who share their experiences whatever they are)

We can offer an N/A manifold for £650 and we are happy to add these into the group buy, I will update the first post accordingly. The price for the remaining system will stay the same. Just to ensure complete clarity these wouldn't be made in 321 Stainless Steel, it would be 304 as the N/A manifolds get nowhere near as hot as the turbo'd engines, but please rest assured that these will still be very strong as well as offering a nice power increase. If we get orders for 30 mixed manifolds (G, Stevens and N/A) we can go ahead at the prices quoted. Also thank you to Jaap for the

Just under 8,000 although have done a further 7,500 within 12 months in my other Sports car. Neither are daily’s !!

We can support the groupbuy with the by Alunox tested EFR 6258-G turbocharger Pn. 11589880036 at Euro 1.598,- (EX VAT, EXW) orders at [email protected]

Have had this argument on here before (me, have an argument, perish the thought!) - someone will say the servicing was done based on mileage so is FSH. It's crap as the schedule is usually xxmiles or xx months, not pick and choose to suit.

How can you possibly be married to someone so intelligent and talented?

Thank you so much for this very informed post - much appreciated @Fridge

Preposterous!

Lengthy chat with the S1 owner just now, he does not recall the beams other than in the satin black now on show. FWIW.

Hi Eric. They are AC delco. Made for the Corvette and other American cars. Best to buy new or remanufactipured. They are very cheap from th US about £70 when I bought them on ebay..

Right Sparky.... it's quite pricey but..... Looky here

Your post highlights how lucky we are to have this forum. The collective knowledge of all is invaluable. Frankly, I could not restore my car without everyone’s assistance. This one issue alone will save many of us a lot of headaches. And money! Wouldn’t it be great if we could get even more input from people like Mike?

Knowing Andy, some kind of beef in red wine stew

Just had the car professionally weight balanced and 4-wheel wheel aligned. It turned out that I had set it up well by hand using string and an old WHS Smith ruler bought when I was a youngster. It's bang on now, and it drove home beautifully on its 120 mile round trip to York at 60-70mph without a break, and never missed a beat. A full write up in time.

Something to start your search - https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corvette-door-window-motor-right-1968-1982.html

Couple of shots from an open track day a couple's of days ago

Videos on youtube Sound from outside Checking it over Final power run

Me.... mine is the bollox... i thought it was a very straight forward Build to be fair. My second 910 Turbo engine from the crankshaft up. some make it sound like a Saturn 5 to build. It’s an internal combustion engine, that’s all. And to be fair the tolerances are not even that tight. the main thing is having the right kit and space. Fabian was dead unlucky IMO. Had a follower fail by the sound of it. nothing to do with blast media. My entire block, sump and head blasted. Clean as a whistle. No residue. Good as gold. stop over thinking it. @Lotusfab

Fabian.

@ALUNOX (https://www.alunox.co.uk/) can make you one. This is the valved cat-back system fitted to my car in Stainless but they are masters of Ti too.

Transformation of GT 430, done! Details of changes to come, lots and lots of work!

In deed, the GT430 Sport/GT430 story is a very paradox one. Before ordering my GT430 Sport I went through all the same considerations as The Pits did. The beautiful line and elegancy (the air vents in the front wheelarch you can not get rid of with a GT430) and the way I use it made me decide on the Sport. My dealer and I, we realized that there will be only a very small time window for ordering this exotic from Lotus factory with personal specifications. Therefore, I ordered mine immediately at beginning of October 2017. The prediction was that all the GT430s will be sold out very quickly an

Wedgey goodness! Nice and dry out this afternoon so gave the Elite a blast to get the oily bits moving - started fine after working the choke and getting fuel flowing for the first time, after at least 6 weeks standing!

Could someone be getting a bargain..

This is my Type 49 Lotus Exige 430 Cup built by Lotus to celebrate their 70th birthday and Formula 1 victories at the Goodwood Festival of Speed in 2018. Inspiration came from the Type 49, which was driven by Graham Hill to win both the Drivers’ and Constructors’ Championships in 1968. It’s painted in the same iconic red and gold leaf colours. It was (and I think still is?) the fastest road car around Hethel at 1:24.8. It was the 5th quickest road car up the Goodwood FoS hill climb in 2018 with a time of 53.51. This car also featured in Top Gear’s Car of the Year in 2018. I

I have tried these, and they do work but have a limited life if you don't get the oil consistency right, I would recommend something along the lines of molasses or W90/95 and I can confirm the savings involved are enormous! ....but for goodness sakes don't actually start the engine!

I'm planning on fitting the engine before fitting the body - it's how they did it in the factory so it can't be that hard. Pete

That engine block looks really clean Tom, did you have it blasted to get that finish?

Luckily I'm taking the liners out to fit to the 907 block, so it's ALL coming apart. They seem well stuck though so I may have to fashion a puller. Here's the restored original 907 block for my internals. Stripped back and prepared for assembly. The issue with the 911 block was that the adapter plate for the sump meant that half the bellhousing bolts didn't line up And there was oil everywhere - and I had no idea how the internals were arranged. But it doesn't look too bad, condition seems ok and I'm getting an idea of what goes where thanks to forum memb

Super strong these Eclats!!

I have seen them on ebay.

Played around in the parking house.... (and in Lightroom)

My grazes and cuts from doing the job on my last car have just healed - can't help sorry !!

Are you sure it's not a wiring issue, loose or corroded connections causing voltage drop or possibly wires almost broken through where they get flexed when the door opens/closes. The motor has push on connectors which are tricky but not impossible to get to, so you could try making some wires and connect 12v directly to the motor and see if it then lifts. if you end up taking it out for refurb (they don't usually need replacement) you will need to try this anyway as its going to be very tricky to remove it with the window in the down position.

Only a few nuts and bolts inside the door - you need a double jointed midget orangutan to assist !!