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Showing content with the highest reputation on 19/01/20 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    So, I have returned from Northampton Motorsports with a newly mapped ECU (apparently it had a Talbot Sunbeam map on it!). And boy, does it make a difference. Plus it's now serviced so can be used without restriction. The Motorsports dude said that the engine (rev limited to 7,000rpm) still had more to give at cut off. Probably another 10-20hp. Northampton Motorsport are on the ball, and sell their own fuel injection systems and all sorts. Amazing collection of cars there, including a turbo with a V6 Jag engine transplant! The numbers (for a 2.2L na engine) are pretty impressive I think, especially from an engine of this age, so am super happy. All the lumps and flat spots have gone from the rev range and it's now a smooth linear build. Really happy. So, apart from the wheels needing to be lacquered to protect the soft rolled aluminium rims, and the centre console stuff to come back from Stitch Perfect, the car is pretty much job done! Awe. Some.
  2. 4 points
    14. XXX As the winter slowly progressed into spring my thoughts turned to doing more work on the actual car. With the aim of completing most of the exterior items by the end of the forthcoming summer. I’d bought a high quality electric aerial to match the automatic period radio/cassette unit bought back in August 2016. However, the motor unit was too large for it to be placed in the front wing. @RichardJGC confirmed that a smaller version was available which would fit after some modification. I spilt the control circuit housing and was able to place within the door jam aperture, once the inner wing had been filed a small amount to allow the aerial to fit vertically within the space and out through the wing aperture. The cables were threaded through to the cabin via a grommet within a black PVC conduit and tie-wrapped to the dashboard bar to keep them tidy for later connection to the head unit. During this time I also revisited the door bars which I’d had media blasted to their original look. These were to be left in bare aluminium apart from the hinges which had been finished in black. I had initially obtained plastic replacement bushes from SJ Sportscars. However I’d since learned that fitting brass bushes were a better solution so the bars was sent off to have bushes machined and press fitted. As the fine weather was still sporadic, I ticked off some of the smaller jobs that would allow me to tackle the more time consuming ones once the long sunny days returned. This included tidying up the inner sill covers. The engine cover was also completed with the same under bonnet NASI insulation as used by Porsche 928, as recommended by @Tony K Using 2 to neatly cover the underside of the engine cover. The cover being finished off with a new rubber edge seal. Hopefully this, and the butyl sound proofing in the cabin would help insulate against engine and road noise. Other items like the new boot pull cable and assembly were also fitted. As were new number plate lights and stainless steel screws. The ‘L’ shaped retaining lugs securing the vertical boards covering the rear lights were also cleaned up and painted satin black. All of the boot board fixings were renewed in stainless steel. The binnacle, steering column and switch gear plate had come out really good in their newly painted Nextel. The dashboard and binnacle demister grills were fixed in place, as was the passenger side air vent. Being careful not to mark the new Nextel finish, which had fortunately come out in a pleasant and practical darker shade than I’d expected. As I had feared unwelcome reflections in the windscreen in strong daylight. With the inner sills in place I fitted new seat runners to the seats and bolted them in, figuring that I had more room without the doors in place. By now summer was fast approaching and my next tasks would involve pushing the car out onto the drive once more to provide greater access and the beginning of my final assembly stage, which would begin with fitting the doors. Something I was warned by @Final Edition that would take a long time to get right.
  3. 3 points
    Not if you kept the box, they're not.
  4. 3 points
    Okay, so several upgrades on the way, a couple planned, a couple not... First of all, new tail lights on the way from GRP! This was planned, they're just a little delayed... Next, carbon scoops, on the way from Alias23, just a little delayed too due to a questionable Italian courier Next due to Mr Fox an unplanned changeout! I've sent some more cash Imrans way for his street profile splitter. Finally and not planned but just couldn't resist due to the price, a set of NTR46 one way Nitrons. Have actually been really happy with my Komotec/ Eibach lowering springs but for the price I just couldn't say nooo
  5. 3 points
    I think the seats are nice in the car albeit not very thick so the drivers foam may we’ll be more compressed than new by now being 10 years old and having butt imprints for 50k The ride was very good soaking up bumps and potholes with ease. The best lotus seats I have used were in my late Excel SE, they were really good on long runs but then very well padded. TBH yesterday was not a fair test having been on 3 trains for nearly 6 hours with less than great comfort followed by the extended car journey due to the M4 closure. I get uncomfortable in the cinema as always on the go at work or home doing stuff, wife always telling me to sit down and chill out! The roads never allowed for fun driving yesterday Justin so thought I would do the test as we often travel distance to see family and I now have the excuse to take the Lotus instead of the family wagon The seller told me about the potential battery drain so will investigate that over the coming weeks, not sure how old the battery is either so will check. Thanks for the tips on power points, he obviously forgot and I was in a hurry to go so only looked at the handbook last night quite late which confirmed most queries. Not sure about the Lotus Mats as they look short compared to the floor pan and seen a few posts about this issue. They look good so if anyone has them fitted please post a photo? I will have a chat with James at SWLC as will need someone to look after servicing to maintain the history although happy to do interim ones myself as always, brakes will be in the summer. I will get James to order the odd trim bits as don’t have a local main dealer. I finish work at midday today so we will be out terrorising the roads getting that engine to sing Giles sent me this shot of me driving away a happy new owner yesterday. Dave
  6. 3 points
    Every Evora should have these! The driving is simply transformational for the car! It’s the one upgrade every one needs! Combined with the aero and jhooks of the GT 430.....your normal can be extraordinary.....
  7. 2 points
    A bit of bonding at today's large cars and coffee event at Wynyard Hall, NE England.
  8. 2 points
    Hi Derek, I slid the PCB out of the case and visually all of the components look perfect. No sign of heat or damage. The lacquer and all of the soldering is beautiful. Just to recap on the issues; The CEL is on permanently. The ECU won't go into diagnostic mode when pins A + B are linked. I can't get into the ECU with a computer (although, this could be my ALDL lead at fault or my lack of Espritmon skills) The car starts from cold ok but the idle speed is low and needs throttle to keep it running. When warm, the idle is ok at ~1000rpm. The engine runs rich at all times (hot or cold / slow or fast) The car is chuggy and jerky to drive. The spark-plugs are fouled with soot after a drive (probably causing misfire and adding to the rich chugging and jerkiness) Other than that, the car is great Andy.
  9. 2 points
    I think this is just a drilling down through the chamber to provide an oil feed to the aux shaft bearing that end. It's blanked off when the housing is bolted into place. I don't have a gasket handy but quickly traced a bit of paper to check: Keeping going Fabian!
  10. 2 points
    Ok people, I have just been contacted by Adrian at the Chandlers ford race centre, he has just up-rated his computer system and can now offer us many different Lotus cars to drive and wondered if we wanted to run a TLF championship? Or just another meeting there?
  11. 2 points
    Nightfall blue
  12. 2 points
    Isn't this Porsche waking up to the market and Lotus by acknowledging that their 4 cyl sojourn was a mistake?
  13. 2 points
    The power point in the boot by the latch is always live so I plug my C-tek charger in to that. The boot rubber seal is big enough to allow you to close the boot with the charger lead going over it. Just don't forget it and drive off with the charger still connected like I did once! I now attach the charger case to the steering wheel as a reminder when its on charge!
  14. 2 points
    Use the sport button and don’t be afraid to get them revs up. seats look lovely - my initial drive home from oopnorth I got back with ankle pain from the driving position that endured for the first week or two. Don’t suffer from it now at all. Absolutely right sir about 24mpg is a sweet spot
  15. 2 points
    Mine has a charging point in the boot, though I can leave for 2 weeks+ without trickle charging. Plus one between the seats. Lotus still sell overmats with Evora text or did in 2018 as Bell and Colvill supplied a new set for mine. I hope you will get that MPG way down over the next few months....5000rpm to the 3 red lights is the best place to be. Justin
  16. 2 points
    Well today was the day to collect and bring the Evora home and my first ever drive! I set off at 5am taking three trains to Sudbury from Plymouth to be collected by Giles Cooper who is a fantastic chap and I can definitely recommend him if anyone is looking for a good car, he has a superb motorsport background and really knows his stuff being an Ex Lotus and TVR dealer. The Evora was better than I imagined and looked stunning at his 16th century home parked alongside a gorgeous TVR. Well was it all I expected....oh yes what a superb car and the blue fin exhaust sounded awesome heading through the tunnels on the M25! Shame they decided to shut part of the M4 as my Tom Tom decided to take me down some horrendous back roads adding a couple hours to my trip with snail pace traffic. Mind this proved what a capable car the Evora really is handling the traffic with ease. After 300 plus miles my ass felt like it had been kick by a bloody horse but I expected that with the race type seats fitted which have limited padding. The engine torque is fantastic along with the cruise control which proved invaluable on the long journey allowing some relaxing of the old legs! What was impressive is the speed it adjusts the throttle with steep hills maintaining the revs perfectly, the manual finger adjustment was equally as quick. Not had a good cruise control like this since the DB7 or S Class so well done Lotus! I returned 38.2 MPG according to the trip which I reset as I hit the M25 which was superb for a GT car although I maintained around 75 MPH at 2000 RPM for a large portion with the cruise on. Visibility is better than the Esprit and the mirrors are really excellent allowing easy reading of the road behind, blind spot vision is not great but expected like the Esprit. Gear-change is pretty good but the cables have been done along with the clutch. The mirror adjusting switch is in an awkward place behind the door handle but that is just being picky TBH. Things to sort; I am getting quite a bit of wind noise where the door shuts in the mirror region both sides, it quietens completely if you put your finger along the area. May need new door seals? The Allen headed screws on the scuttle and holding the spoiler are quite corroded so stainless will be fitted. The Grille either side of the exhaust has some minor bubbling so will remove and powder coat. The battery drains after a week or so, I will plumb in a charging point for the maintenance charger to save removing the battery cover/carpet as I use my motorcycle mostly for work etc. No Mats, where is the best place to get these? There is a USB on a lead in the glove box which I assume someone has added but I will fit another somewhere on the dash area as use these all the time. The leather on the sills is easy to scuff getting in and out so not sure if they do protectors? The leather on the dash in the centre behind the screen has slightly pulled apart from heat/sun and shrinkage so will try to think about a smart repair as only interior defect. The Blue callipers need a refresh if being fussy but not urgent and will overhaul when I do the discs which are 50% through their life cycle I reckon. The boot release cable under the rear seat needs looking at as not working although the electric release is fine. The little plastic covers which go over the seat belt D rings are missing, anyone know if these are from something else or a Lotus part? Not an issue either way but need a pair. Good news is it fitted in the garage next to my 1960 mini which was a concern Got home at just after 7pm so tired but looking forward to a good Sunday drive out on some lovely roads in our region with the better half. Really pleased and thanks for all the advice helping me make such a fantastic car choice guys. The Evora really is a massive step forward over the Esprit which I will always love and can only imagine what a late Supercharged Evora is like! Dave
  17. 2 points
    Had a trip to Komotec this morning...
  18. 2 points
    In the kit there were 2 metal supports that needed to be bolted to the wheels hubs. This supports will be connected with the fresh air feeding pipe. I got this kit complete of all the parts including bolts and air feeding pipes from Italy and there were included fitting instructions with pictures step by step. Very easy to install.
  19. 2 points
    Hi there, Sorry but just been reading this! And this is my opinion ! not meaning to rude, nor flippant in any way shape or form! Honestly. But Sorry but you don't seem to sure of anything to do with the task of changing your pads, Now your car would of cost more than 50K The brakes are the only things that stop you hitting something else! Labour time to fit new would be somewhere between .75 to 1 hour book time just get them done. then you are 100 % sure. Sorry if that seems a bit blunt, but as an MOT tester I have seen the results of someone having a go! Andy
  20. 1 point
    I'm Laurie, I just took delivery of my second Lotus so it's probably about time I posted something here. I've switched over from an Evora 400 to a new Exige 410. The kids have dubbed it "Lil Satan" ... seems about right. Loving it! Cheers!
  21. 1 point
    I’m after any info anyone may have on this esprit My uncle owned it but sold it in ‘92 to make was for my cousin, I told him he should’ve kept it and he agreed the lotus would’ve been less trouble! Only info I have is based off the MOT checker website but if anyone has it I’d love to hear off them/see some more pics
  22. 1 point
    Thanks Dave. Have taken off the header tank too , it’s also coated in very hard scale not rust. So will be making a new one.
  23. 1 point
    What a lovely looking S2, fingers crossed for you
  24. 1 point
    Head pulled - happy to find this to be honest.
  25. 1 point
    Yup, the mats were made by Classic Restorations in Alyth, however, anyone who makes car mats could measure it up for you. The mats did indeed go with the car to @Kimbers so he could post pitcures. Also, it wasn't an LA, it was a 2010 +0. I have someone making some custom mats for my current 410 Sport Evora, will post pictures of them but they will; just be a direct replacement, size wise, of the 4XX mats.
  26. 1 point
    If there is a component failure in the ECU it probably happened quite a while ago so there isn't likely to be any smell of burning. A visual inspection of the PCB is required. The ECU can be repaired but it is probably cheaper to buy a 2nd hand one from the 'States (it was used in several different cars) and put your Memcal into that.
  27. 1 point
    Yes, the driver side mat is short. In fact, just wrong for some bizarre reason. However, it protects the necessary bits and does not catch your heel or disrupt in any way. I had rather forgotten this as it matters so little to me but I should have mentioned. The passenger side one fits correctly. Mine were complimentary but had I paid for them, I would be miffed. I would hope Lotus have resolved this, perhaps a dodgy batch, but I am sure they have more pressing matters to attend to presently. Any mat you do buy, please ensure it is fixed in position with the screw-in retainers. The Lotus ones at least have the hole and finish trim to do this, though I am sure it is easy to buy the fixing kit. Excels are lethal if fitted with non-fixed overmats; they slid and end up catching the accelerator pedal, holding it down on full-bore. Justin
  28. 1 point
    Out of interest sake, it seems that the BMW 17117558480 rad is a really good fit. Just needs some modifications for mounting and fan mounting if you were to use the original fans. Previous owner bodged a repair on the original radiator in my Elite and it's cracked. Unfortunately very expensive to get a reconditioned, winner-racing or custom built one in South Africa, so in the meantime I needed to find something to work while getting it registered and roadworthy. Found one of these for ~£40 at a second hand store.
  29. 1 point
    If you’re concerned about media residue post-cleaning, there’s a process I’ve used before known as dry ice blasting. It uses no media, just CO2.
  30. 1 point
    If he did, I think that @Kimbers still owns the car.
  31. 1 point
    I found a more attractive pattern called WL5 from Amazon. Diamond looks too "industrial". IMO, best looking would be "turned engine" pattern, but I could not find it at any reasonable price. '
  32. 1 point
    Hopefully those staff who want to work on will get the chance to maintain the dealership/franchise!
  33. 1 point
    Work on the Rev counter continues, more on that soon. I decided to have a look at the side/headlight twist and pull switch. Which, after 40 odd years, wasn’t a smooth as it once was. On closer inspection it was apparent that some of the metal parts were rusty. As it’s a mechanical switch I did contemplate just dropping it in a bath of Deox-C to remove the rust. But... I couldn’t resist taking it apart to see how it worked! The picture shows all the parts that make up the switch. If you are going to take it apart I would recommend you do it in a bag! There is a VERY small ball bearing that you do not want to lose, ask me how I know! This is how it works In the case there is a spring that sits horizontal to the shaft on which the ball bearing sits. On the brass rod you can see three recesses. Two are vertical, one horizontal. When the switch is in the “in” position the ball sits in the horizontal recess (bottom right) when you twist to switch the sides on it moves to the bottom vertical one. At the same time the metal cam rotates on the inside across its shelf and sits over a gap. When you pull the switch for headlights the ball engages with the top recess and pulls the cam down which moves a brass collar (which sits astride a plastic holder) down to make full contact with the three legs of the switch. First thing to do is remove the knob. The knob is held in place by a push pin. Look at the knob and you will see a small hole. Stick a small screwdriver in and depress the metal button at the bottom of the hole whilst simultaneously pushing the knob off the switch. Then you need to remove the small nut off the end of the rod remove the washers, collar, holder and cam then carefully remove the brass rod not forgetting the ball bearing. Then give everything a thorough clean. There is a knack to putting this back together. This is the method I used (others are available). Take the switch and hold it vertical, contacts upper most. Take the brass rod and orientate the two vertical recesses approx. with the spring. Insert the rod so the top is just behind the spring. Take the ball and place it in the hole so it just rests on the top of the rod. Gently manoeuvre the ball so it rests on the spring. Holding the switch and rod like this in one hand, with the other hand take a small jeweller’s screwdriver and depress the ball on its spring. As you do this gently push (using the desk as your third hand) the rod over the spring. You will hear/feel it slide into the first recess; you need the ball in the second recess. Once you have done this the rod will sit there happily. DON’T be tempted to pull the rod back and forth or you will pull it out along with the ball! Now the other bits, first is the cam. If you look at the rod you can see a threaded bit at the top, then a shoulder then another shoulder just above the top recess. The cam needs to sit on this bottom shoulder, which, if the switch is in the “in “position places the lug on its shelf. It will go on but will need pushing past the spring legs of the terminals. I used a pair of pliers to get it down there. Next is the plastic carrier followed by the brass collar (there will be witness marks on it so you get it in the same position as before) then the fibre washer, spring washer and finally the small nut. Now you can have a play with the switch! And marvel at how smooth the action is.
  34. 1 point
    Here's my attempt an an arty boot screen...
  35. 1 point
    I wimped out on my original plan of something witty and entertaining for a splash screen, so got the camera out instead.
  36. 1 point
    I think there's a separate discussion on the annulus, the collective wisdom seemed to indicate that it was symetrical. The two parts wear together so putting them back incorrectly orientated would be a problem, I'd guess much as swapping pistons to liners other than the ones they bedded in with.
  37. 1 point
    In the case of my car, yes I believe the way the previous owner wired in the fan override fried one of the QDMs on my ECM. I don't know whether the V8 ECMs have any form of inbuilt protection or not, but if not I'd be inclined to suggest the use of some form of protection diode. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable on the V8 ECM can confirm/refute what I'm saying. Being a more modern design it may well have protection but I don't know. The lack of a protective diode shouldn't be an issue short term, but long term it could kill the ECM if it doesn't have built in protection.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Absolutely amazing job, love this car
  41. 1 point
    No. The none return valve in the oil filter does that , which it is why you must have the correct spec filter.. When tuning these 900 series engines many years ago it was discovered that the oil supply to the cams was excessive , flooding the cam housings with oil that would could be better distributed at the bottom end and turbo. By fitting a restrictor you can modify your oil flow to the cams and engine as a whole . By doing this you can better maintain oil pressure , increasing it in a well built unit. However anyone who is not sure of what they are doing or does not fully understand the concept should avoid doing it until they are confident it is correct for their build.. To be fair the benefits far out way the avoidance which is why most of us tuning professionals do it as a matter of course. The drain back is a completely different side of the oil flow dynamic. I am so sorry Fabian, i was trying to do a play on your words, but it obviously came across to strong.. Sorry.. I thought you had forgot the pics because you had posted so many more since, i was just checking as we are all so interested , a picture is worth a thousand words . On the cam followers , i agree longer skirts have advantages in certain situations. BUT..... not just any long skirt follower . The ones GK sells will do the job perfect as they are a tuning part.... However did you know the crown on the GK ones is a lot thicker so the follower sits higher on the valve, providing the required skirt clearances... Now why you need to know this is because everything changed has an effect .. So, to explain. With most engine rebuilds, especially when fitting new guides , you will re-cut the valve seat. this in turn will reduce the thickness of your shims when fitting the cams by .010 - .030 depending on a lot of factors. When resetting/ matching the combustion chamber volumes further cutting back of valves is normally used as the primary method before fine fettling. ( but not many bother with the chamber matching) . On top of that you then fit a cam follower which is circa .020 thicker . When you take into account the original shim thicknesses vary from .080 to .100 , you can have a situation where the shims you will be fitting can be getting a tad on the thin size. You want to try and keep them north of .070 to be on safe side. I only say this as you mentioned this engine had been professionally re built before , so i expect they will have been re-cut prior and again when you did it . As a result , especially as you are now fitting new guides another cut will be needed , this will compound the situation unless you intend to fit new valve seats at the same time .. This is just something you may not have known or fully understood , i hope i have put this across in a way that is not condescending .... This is not the first time we have bumped heads. So if you wish me to stop posting observations just say, i will not be offended.. This post is already to long to go into the pump side of the flow dynamic , but i am sure someone will give a technical explanation .. etc.. If it was easy everyone would do it. .. keep going..
  42. 1 point
    Hi Dave(changes) , sone people might get upset by some of your comments - not sure if you intend for them to come across as they do? I'm too old a bunny to be concerned. I havnt got around to doing the cam pics because Im busy taking the engine out and its low priority. My garagevis small and they are on the other side of all my parts. I read about the restrictor mod on the Lotusbits website aboutv7 years ago! As you said to me about the cam followers, why change the spec? Incidently, Gary Kemp sells those followers and told me they will work with a standard 107 camshaft. They have advantages over the shorter skirt in my opinion. The oil pump is pretty simple. The problem on here is no one has bothered to post any significant detail about it. All I found was its difficult to build pressure, but no explanation of how it works. Hopefully that will change as I go into it in much greater detail then ever before, with figures! Im very pleased all the the sealing is perfect on the engine. Now I just need to rip it apart and see whats happened. Should not take too long. I have already done the difficult parts the first time around, second time piece of cake. Everything is so much easier with practice. Im learning a lot and will have this up and running towards the end of March. Guess what if it isnt perfect I'll rebuild it again, if only to make a point and set an example for other enthusiasts.
  43. 1 point
    I just love the way my topics stay precisely on point.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    That's beautiful work Simon. I can't wait to see your car! Cheers, Richard
  46. 1 point
    It hasnt be run for over 20 years. The top covers were media blasted both sides buy a powder coater, but not powder coated. I cleaned them with brake cleaner. Then rattle can paint. The media can get imbedded and is released with hot oil. The cam towers and head were aquablasted as was the sump. The block was cleaned with compressed air, brake cleaner and pipe cleaners. All the oil ways were tripple checked, brake cleaner, pipes and compressed air. All the other aqua blasted parts were cleaned over and over with compressed air rags and brake cleaner, i would say I did more cleaning than most would. I really left no stone unturned. The wear can only be caused by lack of oil or abbrasive substance in the oil. Many rebuilds have been written off by blast media, which is why some garages wont use aqua blasting. I found oil in both cam towers, the lower camshaft being submerged. I haven't yet got the lower cam tower off. When I do it will hold the answer. If its got the same wear, despite being immersed in oil, it must be due to media. If not then its an oil problem. All the oil ways so far are clear. I am planing a full spectral analysis of the oil which will,show up silicon content. Hopefully confirming what I suspect. When I rebuild it again I shall replace the annulus, rotor and the housing. I shall also check the pick up pipe is not sucking air buy putting a clear pipe on the oil cooler outlet and checking for air bubbles. Your correct I must be certain as to the cause. I hope people are learning from this it could save many many hours and a lot of money. Im pleased all of my sealing has worked perfectly with no excess sealant so far. I will get the sump off and photograph! Was a shame to take the camshaft out. The rubber seals were perfect, as was the end float and cam snubber setting. Im not goingbto flower this up Its gutting taking apart everthing that took so much effort to assemble. But, never mind these things happen. At least I have a stunning car which I will complete and put skis on!
  47. 1 point
    In fact here is aforementioned piece of ply as I am using it as we speak. Note array of every small spanner I have to try and find ones which fit the choke and accel cables, which are of course different sizes! Can never remember what they are.
  48. 1 point
    At least on these cars you can remove the boot section. I have a shaped piece of ply which fits in place of the boot floor and extends quite far forward to rest on the bellhousing and a piece of foam to kneel on.
  49. 1 point
    Yes I have taken the leap of faith
  50. 1 point
    I think given the effort and expense that @KG has gone to trying to recreate the car that was originally promised for the US it would be uncharitable and uncharacteristically sniffy and pedantic of TLF to be excluding him from this thread. I say let at least the GT430 recreations or ‘continuations’ to stay. I’m sure the very astute members here will be able to work it out and get a decent night’s sleep afterwards.


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