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Showing content with the highest reputation on 25/04/20 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Fitting the liners , People have different ways of fitting liners, but this is the method I have used for years without issue . Once all the liners have the nip heights set / adjusted to required spec and are in correct orientation dry, mark them up so they can be removed and placed back in exactly the same position when sealant applied.. I do this by simply applying masking tape up the center line of the decks.. see Pics's Next jobs is to remove all liners and prep all parts ready for next stage, this is done so you are not looking for any part in the middle of a procedure ... Wipe all mating surfaces on liners and block with a spirit wipe to remove any oils etc. Prior to fitting liners it is time to refit all the block/head studs and locating dowels .. important to note these are torqued in with oiled threads , i also apply a small amount of blue thread lock. When all fitted prep area where liner # 1 is installed by first wiping with tack cloth , then smear the surface with your chosen sealant. Then prep the # 1 liner with tack cloth and apply sealant to the contact area. Carefully slide the liner into place . When fully down give slight twisting action side to side to ensure fully bedded . You will find this will be quite stiff to do compared to when dry.. Whilst doing this ,using a long straight edge align the datum marks on the decks to ensure fully straight in position .. Failure to do this now may cause alignment issues with the flats on the liners not being square to each other or even touching on the points. By the time you have prepped and fitted liner # 2 it will be awkward to re orientate # 1 , as the sealant will have already grabbed .. Repeat the same procedure on all 4 liners . You should get a nice bead of sealant at the base and all around the liner if fitted correct. Next job is to remove the masking tape markers and fit an old compressed but very clean head gasket, followed by the cylinder head. Torque the head down to 40 ft lbs in the recognised sequence, ( remembering to oil the threads) . This will compress the liners into their final position. Leave like this for circa 12 to 24 hours .. Before leave to fully cure, invert the engine . You will see another bead of sealant on the base of the liner. Remove this with a cloth and spirit wipe . Because the sealants used here are mostly anaerobic they will not fully cure in that environment. To prevent the sealant polluting the oil it is removed from that area, it is not an issue in the water jacket where it will dissolve and disperse . This conclude the fitting of the liners. Next job will be to match the pistons to the bores and gap the rings ..
  2. 5 points
    I find all this speculation about how and what Lotus should/could be doing amusing, tiresome and frustrating in equal measure. Ever since the 1960’s when I first owned a Lotus I’ve been, frankly, surprised they ever managed to survive at all. There have been many pending collapses followed by false dawns every time a new owner came forward, but always they seemed to step smartly back just as soon as they realise what they’ve taken on. Prior to Geely, arguably GM at the time probably had the biggest potential budget of all the owners but I never felt Lotus was a good fit with a giant US auto corporation and so it proved. Now, however, I genuinely believe Geely are a good fit. They obviously have the budget but Lotus has suffered from under investment for so very long that there needs to be a lot of spending to lay proper foundations. Most of that money is never seen by us, the car buyers, but it still needs to be done in order to build the solid ground for the future. Whilst all this has been going on, we have had the Evija as a bit of a distraction and to show that Lotus is still alive. I imagine that has probably needed a relatively small team to design and develop whilst work starts and continues on new future models. In the past, Lotus has always been able to bring new cars to market surprisingly quickly, probably too quickly if most of the moans on this and other car forums are to be believed. I’m sure now, Geely are probably very aware of Lotus past record of frailty and are making damn sure the next new model will be as well built and fault free as is possible. That all takes time to achieve! We can all speculate on what we want from this next new car, and others, but let’s just wait and see. It won’t be many more months and I’m sure it will be worth the wait. When they have that next car I would be very very surprised if we don’t see a marketing effort going into overdrive to promote that and the company. For my own part, I would like nothing better than remaking the 1960’s Elan but the world has obviously moved on and legislation has made that impossible anyway. Beyond this next interim car, I really can’t see me buying another new Lotus. Not because I am dissatisfied with the company or their perceived lack of promoting the business/products, but more because I am a dinosaur and just can’t buy in to an electric sports car. I am an old fashioned petrol head who wants noise, smells, lightness and drama from my sports cars, alongside the givens of sweet handling, road holding and going like shit off a shovel. Going forward, I just can’t see any car maker giving me what I want, not just Lotus. But that is all just me and, as I said earlier, the world has moved on. Alas I haven’t! So having said all that, let’s just give Lotus a chance to show us what they can do. I’m encouraged the company is in safe hands and am looking forward to what they come up with - even though I probably won’t be buying too many more myself.
  3. 4 points
    As the car is progressing well, but has no glass a weather is due to change. Thought I’d better get old the old marquee. Should help progress once I get the side on.
  4. 4 points
    Classic car prices peaked in 1989 and fell. They did the same thing in the Global Financial Crisis in 2008 and are doing the same now. The economy is getting covid battered and it will get much worse before it gets any better. Classic cars are a discretionary spend and have been ramped up, in part, by dismal investment returns. It's therefore hard to see how the current bubble is going to do anything but pop. As Dave says, the peak has already been reached and we're on the way down albeit that it won't be in unison. In my view that's really no bad thing as it will hopefully allow enthusiasts who actually want top own and drive the classic cars a change to buy them at realistic prices.
  5. 4 points
    Hopefully spent wisely, cos i’d imagine Danny B would have developed his personal helicopter and champagne brand However I’m with Jonny on this, Phil has had a good year to show what Lotus can do with (in Lotus terms extremely large sum) the money, completed the skeleton factory/visitor centre? One new car (Evija) into production hired a shed load of engineers/staff. So what have we seen/Geely got! Say what you want about JMG but with no money managed to keep me in a Lotus. Up to date we/me had far more correspondence with JMG than I have with Phil/his lieutenants. Up to CV I should add. Yes i’m really looking forward to the video of this weeks “meeting” from Bibs; and in the coming months hopefully some real news on the “interim” 2020 - 2021 car before this becomes the 2022 car, and before all the forum users start with their stop living in the past and I need to stop living in the MJK/Chapman era, we have owned Lotus cars since 1982 and hope that our grandsons will be able to follow in the Lotus family tradition.
  6. 3 points
    Maybe so. I didn’t suggest everybody finds it tiresome and accept I may be in the minority with that view. My Lotus history goes back nearly 60 years, through many iterations of ownership, so do believe I have the right to comment, and I do actually believe at long last it will all come good - just as soon as they have new models to promote. If you were to speed read through those 95 pages, you would simply see the same hackneyed yawnfest of opinions being repeated time and time and time again. Now time to give the new management a chance and see what the results of their labours are I think. Only then can one really critique their efforts. Right now, the Elise is 24 years old with only 1 major facelift in that time and the Evora 10/11 years old with relatively minor updates, so not a lot to shout about at the moment. Personally, I’m prepared to be patient and wait to see the results of the investment and work!
  7. 3 points
    @Spinney I share this view, well said. I am perhaps a tad more optimistic regarding electric or whatever wins the motion war. Or at least live in hope; McLaren and others will need to find a solution to make interesting sports cars - I wonder if Governments may reverse the 'no hybrid' stance. If not, I think something will materialise to maintain our interest. I rarely buy new cars in any event, I tend buy 4 to 10 year old or classics, so there is plenty to keep my attention for a few years yet. I totally understand why those who buy new Lotus are so worried; they may not be able to purchase another come 2022 and beyond as the cars could be so different. Yet without Geely, that may happen anyway...as Lotus Cars would shutdown. i just want Lotus to survive, frankly whatever it takes. That way, there is a chance of another 'proper' Lotus car one day.....which i can buy 2nd hand in 2035! Justin
  8. 3 points
    Peugeot GTI’s, now that takes me back. Fantastic fun cars and don’t see many these days but values like all hot hatches are very strong.
  9. 3 points
    Right let’s give this a go 1. MK 2 Escort in beige with dog tooth seats 13L I think 2. MG Midget which I built with the old man, steel cranked 1380 engine, full fibreglass front end it was a replica of the “Safety Fast” race car, crashed into a bus stop after running out of talent, rebuilt again would love to get that back but can’t find it 3. Rover SDI Vitesse Moonraker Blue if I remember correctly with velour interior 4. 309 GTI I actually backed this into the Vitesse and damaged both 5. 205 GTI 1.6 6. 205 GTI 1.9 7. BMW 325 with full Hartage conversion brilliant car, mate put it through a fence then into the side of a house so that was the end of that 8. Holden 202 (I think) station wagon in Australia bought in Sydney drove up the East Coast to Cape Tribulation then back down to Townsville across, then up to Darwin, back down the centre to Adelaide and Canberra (the worlds most boring city) across the Nullarbor Plain to Perth then up the West Coast to Kimberley then back to Perth where I sold it for 500 AUD more than I bought it for. Water pump went about 50k from Ayers Rock we had water but run out about 10k out so we just carried on it got so hot the paint on the bonnet started bubbling. Thought it was buggered found a local mechanic and he was like it will be fine pick it up in the morning and it was. Amazing car 3 speed column change. 9. Back to the UK a other 205 GTI 1.6 10. First flat purchase so a £350 Vauxhall Cavalier 1.6 GL possibly, with a dent up the arse bought at auction 11. 1000mile Renault 1.9 16v the single most unreliable car I have ever owned absolute piece of shit 12. New 106 GTI brilliant car so quick and handled like nothing else. 13. Merc W123 280CE coupe still want another one of them 14. New 2000 S1 Elise funnily enough that had 2 new front clam shells after it twice got backed into at the station also done its head gasket 15. Merc E280 petrol Saloon 16. Merc E350 petrol saloon 17. Merc C220 saloon 18. 1989 300SL it was mint Black with grey leather shouldn’t have sold that 19. C350 Estate sport amazing car I was commuting to Hertfordshire 4 days a week 122Mile round trip never missed a beat and was so comfortable and fast whilst doing 45mpg 20. E63 with performance pack so 550bhp loved it but petrol consumption was a joke and wife hated it 21. BMW 330d it was just a car nothing else 22. 1981 Dry Sump Esprit 23. BMW 335i grand coupe 24. Lotus Elan M100 oh and a bundle of Merc Vito vans not sure how many still have a few but they’re owned by the company so don’t really count and I had an Audi at some point but it was so boring I can’t even remember what model it was but it was definitely red probs missed a few
  10. 2 points
    Oh @BatMobile, metallic black is for Adam West.. Motorsport Black is for Christian Bale
  11. 2 points
    Totally agree Jonny For me it’s frustrating that Geely, who I really admire not only for turning Volvo around but that they have taken over a small British sports car manufacturer but have also decided to put so much money into what for me and my family is an amazing car manufacturer. They are allowing the company to rebuild its self as Phil sees fit. Geely obviously have faith in what and how Phil is going around this turnaround. But all these extra engineers working on a myriad of future sports cars, and yet we still have radio silence on a car that was due to be shown last year, production this year now next year hopefully. We had snip its of information on Evija before its mega media release, so why nothing on the interim car, why no PR excitement about the interim car; surely we are not going to stop production of the current cars and start production of the next generation of Lotus cars the next day with no publicity or advertising? please just a little information, while usually I advocate no news is good, I’m not sure in the current climate that is the best policy. Let everyone know Lotus is still around and still builds super sports cars yes I’ve signed up for Geely news just in case they release information
  12. 2 points
    Tested a theory today. One of my bottom arms was a bit knackered. The cup for the ARB bushes was rotted away. New ones aren't cheap at £125 each. On the opposite side of the arm is a plain hole which happens to be the perfect size for Mini stabilizer arm bushes. The bore of these bushes is also a perfect fit for the ARB. So I swapped the arms side to side and it seems to work a treat. The Mini bushes seem to be more substantial, come in various grades and cost peanuts. Will see how they perform and last once on the road.
  13. 2 points
    I can say from decades of experience that the next Big Thing to shoot up in value will be whatever I sell next.
  14. 2 points
    95 pages and counting suggests that people here enjoy speculating about the future of Lotus. So it is welcome and encouraged here. Masses of other threads to read for those who find it tiresome. Continued radio silence at Lotus becomes unforgiveable if they have anywhere close to £1.5bh to spend. I'm amazed how many here think it's just fine, whatever they don't do, whatever they don't say, however much they ignore current owners or the current range, however long they delay, it's all good. It's really not and it will cost the company dearly. The podcasts are a great idea but that's one bloke's initiative and effort and he's not one of the new, highly paid, senior management. There are many hugely talented, dedicated people working at Lotus. They deserve a lot better than what we've seen so far.
  15. 2 points
    Come on Barry you would look great in an Evora
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    In other news, the car passed it's MOT last week. I'm chuffed to bits, and of cause the project's not finished. My MOT guy is very friendly and there are still a few things to sort out including only one HL pod operating. Also some non MOT stuff I still need fixing such as the rev counter and electric windows. And then threre are the two problems I picked up on the way home from the MOT: The baby pheasent (or similar) I hit which cracked the front bumper around the number plate and on ariving home I couldn't find reverse to put it back in the garage. But I guess that's all part of the Lotus experiance? Can't wait for the chance to get out, drive it and get to some meets. I'm quite close to caffeine and Machine (near Stratford-Upon-Avon) might bump into some of you there? Also I have a couple of friends further up North with Elises so maybe I'll pop up at some Derbishire or North Youk Moors drives Attached pic is from when I checked and adjusted the toe.
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    Nahh... Soft porn... This is based on a 300 / 330 bhp spec , ancillary dependent... @dunc_sx is not intending to run big power due to the gear box restriction.. However I have found this porting method / sizing can work extremely well with Base spec engines up to the 350 point.. The range of the flow velocities needed are complimented by this particular spec. The advantage with this set up is, should Duncan want to step it up at a later date , it can all be done with the bolt on goodies as apposed to needing to strip the donkey.. Other parts that have been fitted as standard upgrade on this build are, the 100 amp alternator and high ratio starter motor, along with a full set of new sensors for the stand alone ECU , including the remote AIC unit. We were very fortunate in this case to get hold of the last commercially available set Nikasil Liners, and chrome top SE spec pistons .... I believe SW Lotus has a small stock but is keeping them for their own use.. Here is a few pics of the Liners being fitted and the process used.. The first job is getting the block clean paying particular attention to the land area where the liner sits .. Next job is to offer up the liners dry.. These are a very accurate fit and will bind is any surface dirt around. i always wipe the block and liner with tack cloth before fitting to be sure.. The next job is to check the nip . After dropping the liner down #1 pot , using a small twisting action to feel to make sure fully down, set up gauge and take reading.. pic's show it in being done in one plane, but i always check in 3 planes on 1&4 and in 2 on 2&3. You will note the reading on this liner was +0.01mm -- 0.0004'' to the deck.. Very close to center spec . The next job is to remove this liner mark it 'A' with felt pen and record its nip.. Then repeat the process with the next three liners all in the same #1 pot, marking B, C ,D, with relevant nips heights recorded.. What this does is give you data showing any discrepancies between the liners themselves.. You then offer up Liner 'A' to the other 3 pots in the block and record all the nips .. This will give you the data and any discrepancies in the block deck /seats.. In most cases these discrepancies are very slight usually within one or two thou. However if you just fit willy nilly you can end up with things being in worse case out of spec.. or with unnecessary wide variables. By taking a bit of time and the data gained, you can chose the best combination of liner to pot leveling any differences to the bare minimum... Once you have found the best combination on paper, fit the liners dry in the order decided on.. Check all the individual nips ensuring they match the measurements you should have , liner to deck . The final check is Liner to liner nip. From the data and combinations chosen you should have these as close as possible. Spec is 0.001 between any two , I prefer 0.001 across all four.. Pic's show nip between liners 2 & 3 at 0.003 mm or just over a tenth of a thou. The others could not be this easily seen on the dial , too close ( I need a digital dial ) .. They don't all come out this close without a little bit of fettling .. but that is a job for a specialist.. however you will find by using this process you can get the best match set up from your liners within factory spec. The next job will be to set the liners into final position. ....... and match the pistons..
  20. 1 point
    Back in the day I used to do a 20 mile A/B road drive to the station in a company Corsa GSI. I drove it fast, knew the road like the back of my hand and given the time I was travelling there was nothing on the road. Occasionally a white 106 GTI appeared in front of me. Didn't look as if it would be that fast but blimey have to say that it was proper quick.
  21. 1 point
    The Holden and when I had hair
  22. 1 point
    My 1998 door cards have alcantara centre panels, but the foam has vanished over time, so I just have alcantara flapping about over the panel. This afternoon I whipped off the panels, then pulled off the alcantara insert panels by straitened the split pins; the panel came out. I found the original foam had turned to dust but luckily I had some left over foam from woolies which was a perfect match. I used the alcantara as a template and spent a bit of time making sure the alcantara holes lined up with the panel holes using a drill bit to make the holes in the foam manually. Then a bit of spray glue and careful use of a screwdriver to reopen the split pins and the panels are now foamy again !
  23. 1 point
    Totally with you @LOTUSMAN33, here was mine - puchased with 103,000 miles on the clock as it was the only one I could afford: Went Orion 1.6i Ghia afterwards as mid nineties and insurance was going crazy (I was early 20's) but ideally wanted to go XR3i and then RS Turbo Escort,
  24. 1 point
    Here is metallic black, the classy non blingy black for an exige @RRSSS
  25. 1 point
    How refreshing! Good stuff, Dave.
  26. 1 point
    I remember Nick Mason being asked what he defined as a “classic car”. He replied that in his view it was “Something that was desirable when it was new.”
  27. 1 point
    Excellent work, Dave. The wife says she likes your digital torque wrench!
  28. 1 point
    Quick update as I've been very quiet since my last post. I haven't had the charge cooler fitted or even bought the engine parts I was planning on. Now we're all in lockdown everything is on stop apart from me having a go at fitting the silencer in place of my decat manifold (where the a sports cat would normally be fitted i have a straight pipe hence the awful ear bleeding racket). Has any one attempted to fit one of these or a sports cat themselves? I cannot wait for lockdown to end so fancy trying it myself....unless of course its a tough task. What do we think guys, do'able??
  29. 1 point
    If I can help anyone get rid at really really low prices of a European M100 or a Any Esprit S4s or GT3, that would be my pleasure!
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Nice, great combo and.....top off too
  32. 1 point
    what could be more of aproblem is the burgeoning leasing market of new cars underwritten by the car industry, think total debt is around 9o billion and in the states in the trillions. If this all goes tits up then it must have a knock on effect to the classic car market
  33. 1 point
    I have the dash out at the moment with wires everywhere so im not ignoring all the suggestions i just cant start the car yet until i get it all back in. I will update on the suggestions shortly. Thanks folks
  34. 1 point
    The snubber washers should be fitted either side of the the top wishbone arm bushes.
  35. 1 point
    Giugiaro cars were fitted with 2 fans stacked back to back and built so that they are in rotational harmony when both operate. On the Stevens cars there was a different form of HVAC plenum adapter formed to accommodate the single fan type blower typical of modern cars.
  36. 1 point
    Full geo - the old way. To make it more complete, I describe here again, what I did. I hope that I did it right and maybe it's useful to someone out there. Or just myself, for next time I do it. The old way worked well. Spent the day in the bat cave setting up my LEGO system - Lotus Esprit Geometry Optimisation. My wanted numbers are a mix of SE and Sport300 as I altered the car away from SE spec. 1/ Leveling the floor, having shim tiles ready, placing the car center on the surface. Floor is dead level. 2/ Setting dampers to 70mm each (from under spring lock rings to top of bottom housing). 3/ For fun measuring fender height. Max deviation is 3mm left-right-front-rear-cross. 4/ measuring ride height front and rear. 5/ setting dampers to 12 clicks from hardest (a bit over mid-way - standard point of setup). 6/ Using 4 aluminium ramps and a piece of thin green 1,2mm string, I made a square a la Service Notes. 7/ Adjusting the string setup after taking measures, so A=A, B=B and C=C a la Service Notes. 8/ setting dots on tape on floor to mark axle centerpoints. 9/ setting dots on tape on floor to mark wheel lines. 10/ Taking measure of 20° in/out on each front wheel and marking on tape on floor. 11/ measuring toe in rear. On spec 1mm both left and right. 12/ Measuring and adjusting rear camber to 1,0° both left and right. On spec. 13/ Measuring front camber to 0,9 left and 1,1 right. Non-adjustable on my car. 14/ calculating front Castor to 1,5° on left and right side. Right on spec. 15/ Adjusting front toe to 1° left and right. I may change that. 16/ Bumping car and re-measure everything in spec. Except I need to take the rear apart, brake lines etc, to install new poly radius arm bushings. And remeasure all again. Picture shows string being setup, so not level yet. For ease of use, I made up a LEGO-system work sheet. All setup was done with 2,0 Bar tyre pressure. I am not sure yet, what toe I want on the front, so I will probably make some experimentations for that. I have a feeling that I may end up with 0 or a tiny tad toe in on the front. I had plenty of tramlining when I bought the car years ago. Surely don't want that. I had very much toe out. I need to do it all over again to check after having moved it around outside. At that time I ballast the seats and ½ fuel, and lock the nuts on links and suspension. The idea is clearly described in Service Notes as for the parallelogram. The tapestribes and dots are from the web. On top of that, I used a roll of fine 1,3mm light green string (to make it precise and so I could actually see it, when walking around the car). Then a long level, a flat metal ruler of 1 meter, 2 pieces of bread with cheese, 1 pencil, 1 roll of painters masking tape (doesn't stretch), 1 bottle of juice, 4 aluminium supports (for a trailer), 1 big 90° angle ruler, 1 protractor to measure angles of 90° and 20° and 1 camber tool with air bubble (can do without and measure it manually). When you steer straight and are on level surface, ride height is set, tires are set, you can measure camber, either by a small airbubble tool, or manually. When you have camber angle for lets say the left front wheel, you steer the wheel 20° inwards, as in turning right. This is marked by using the point of center of your wheel hub center, in a vertical plane on to the floor, on a piece of tape sticking to the floor. Set a dot. Then do the same for the two outermost points of the rim, having the steering straight still. Then you have 3 dots and draw a line. This line is now your reference to the wheel being straight. Now, measure 20° angle from the center point, outwards, forward and rearward, as you would steer 20° left and right. Set a point as far away as you can, and draw a line with the flat metal ruler. More distance makes more precision. Take your time. Now measure the camber again. Then countersteer to 20° outwards, as in turning left, and measure camber again. You now have 3 values of camber for each front wheel: straight, 20° left and 20° right. Now, depending on what the numbers are, you can calculate the castor. If the two 20° measurements for a wheel, is calculated like this: What you are trying to achieve, is a camber difference from turning left and right. So, if both measurements are negative, subtract the small number from the larger number. Then multiply that with 1,5 and the result is your degree of castor for that wheel. Negate any + or - when adding or subtracting. If you on the other hand have one negative and one positive cambermeasurement from turning the wheel, then add the numbers together. Multiply by 1,5 and the result is your castor for that wheel. Finally, if both of your camber measurements on one wheel are positive, then subtract the smaller number from the larger number. Then multiply by 1,5 and the result is your castor for that wheel. Repeat the calculation for the other wheel. It's really simple and does not require a lot of expensive cumputer tools from race shops. The picture above is to give you an idea of taping. But, do the string square first as I wrote in the previous post. Then you can do the other precedures for camber, toe in, and castor. Use a big level together with the big 90° angle tool, to ensure vertical correctness when taking measures and making dots on the tape on the floor. The multiplication factor of 1,5 is a result of measuring at 20° angles. If you measure on say 15°, then multiply by 2. If you use 10°, multiply by 3. If your floor is not completely level, son't worry, as the 4 stands are adjustable in height, and both those and the car can be set up level by the use of the thin floor tile vinyl shims I showed in the above. Just buy a piece of 2 x 1 meter, cut them to say 35 x 40cm and you have a stack to play with. each is 1mm thick. Good enough to use for this purpose. Don't lift the car on to these vinyl shims. Then you unsettle the suspension. Instead place whatever stack you need in a corner or more corners, behind the tires, and roll on to them. Measure with the car on them, if it is now level, straight, perpendicular and across. If they slide, just use a bit of painters masking tape to make them sit tight together. Only draw with a thin line pencil as thick lines makes it imprecise. The final time I do it, I'l luse all new nuts for the ones that need to be loose for pre-tensioning the bushings. Little Red Riding Hood is now ready to dance her ballet. I used my LEGO form, as a guide to write down what I found usefull to know, both now and for the next time. It's nothing special, just a practical work sheet. Hopefully this made some sort of sense I'll keep it in the cars file. Kind regards, Jacques
  37. 1 point
    I've got 3 job interviews next week so need to get peep's. Nothing for months then suddenly everyone is interested!
  38. 1 point
    Well I have done everything I can now. I have to wait for the cylinder head, camshaft covers to come back before I can finish the build. I have upgraded to the post 1987 set up. It appears it doesnt require a belt snubber. I can't finish the geabox either because I'm waiting for my grade 0 straight edge to come. Guess its gardening time!
  39. 1 point
    It was a long time ago
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Hi David no luck as yet unfortunately, I tried calling the mobile number but it’s now a disconnected number, I’ve sent an email too but no response as yet . I will try again soon and keep you posted,. cheers , Lee
  43. 1 point
    I'll try this quiz too: 1) Yes and Yes 2) No 380 smaller than 350, probably yes 3) strangely Yes 4) Yes and Yes (+24mm compared to first Yes) 5) Yes (with the exception of China) How did I do?
  44. 1 point
    This particular engine build spec included port matching along with some port sizing and shaping.. Because this engine is going to be running Omex stand alone ECU there are extra performance advantages that can be capitalised on from gas flowing the inlet and exhaust side . This is done in a way to match the mating surfaces of the manifolds reduce the laminar layer improving VE potential ... The sizing and shape has been done to meet the performance spec of this build, taking into account the type of air filter and exhaust system being run. This should allow the engine to run a lot smoother and respond better through the whole rev range .. The following pics will give you an insight to what is involved .. Before After Before After Before After Before After
  45. 1 point
    20. The Wheels Are Not Enough The next task was to align the wheels so that ‘shakedown’ test drives ran a bit more smoothly. I was recommended a couple of places by the folk at the NE Lotus Club in County Durham. Some of the chaps there race their cars and recommended Track Torque Racing near York, and @grimreaper recommended Revolution up near Gateshead. Unfortunately Revolution had recently shut up shop. So I called Track Torque to sound them out. They seemed to know what they’re talking about and they obviously race-prepped a lot of cars, so I stuck them in the memory bank for when I was able to afford the time and money to get it done. Christmas was fast approaching and I’d look at doing this before my next filming commission kicked off in February. So, in the New Year I made an appointment on what looked like a fine weather day. Setting off at first light, which isn’t that early in January. I’d heard good things about Track Torque, after spending the last of the previous years fine days ironing out some of niggles I was excited at the prospect at finally been able to drive the car as the manufacturer intended. The Esprit cruised down through the country lanes to the dual-carriage way to York at a steady 60mph with periods of 70mph. Arriving at Track Torque Racing at about 9:45AM. The car was put on ramps and given an initial visual inspection before hooking up to their alignment machine. They made some notes as to their initial visual assessment, and after a brief discussion about driving style they set about weighting the car and measuring the wheel-2-wheel balance. This took about 45 minutes or more after checking that the tyres held 18psi in the fronts and 27psi in the rears. I took up my position sat in the car held aloft on the ramps whilst I checked and answered my emails. We were in good company with a number of other Lotus Cars in the workshop in various states of work, from tuning and suspension mods. With a 1970 Lotus Seven mk4 in for a complete rebuild. Whilst the chaps did their work I took the opportunity of being on a ramp to inspect the underside of the car and chassis for any problems. The underside still looked in good condition considering the 800 ‘shakedown’ miles that had been driven so far, and everything seemed to be in order. The fronts were found to toe-in quite a lot, and the front of the car was a bit “lop-sided” towards the nearside. I mentioned to double check the upper ball joints and the sure enough the upper nearside needed to be loosened and turned around the correct way. The caster being preset during the build. The fronts were found to toe-in quite a lot, and the front of the car was a bit “lop-sided” towards the nearside. I mentioned to double check the upper ball joints and the sure enough the upper nearside needed to be loosened and turned around the correct way. The caster being preset during the build. Once the rear shock absorbers adjusted the car was found to balance really well, with the thrust line pretty much spot on, which was good news. The nearside shock absorber showing 9 threads and the offside 10 threads. The rear radius arms were then shimmed to achieve the correct toe-in. Using locking paste on the nuts and the bolts were also marked just in case. The final print out gave the full picture of the measurements. With a brief test drive on the winding lanes through the Vale of York, and a simple adjustment of the shock absorber settings, the whole process took between 4.5 and 5 hours to complete without a break. A significant investment in time and effort, but resulting in a thorough geometry setup which is reflected by the before and after measurements. It was now ready for a blast back home through the North York Moors. Comparing the profiles of before and after you may just be able to see that the front site a fraction lower, and the rear, ahead of the rear wheels marginally higher. I reckon by about a thread on the Protech adjustable shock absorbers. No longer does the car’s steering drag on manoeuvring, and turning in to a corner is immediate. Overall, the car now rides the bumps in the road, rather than skittering over them, and feels very solid.
  46. 1 point
    A few before, during and after pics for those interested ...
  47. 1 point
    Well done, Jaws. We know you actually aimed at that pothole, knowing they would be amazed .
  48. 1 point
    Be wary of the accuracy of information, even on here (which tends to be the most accurate). The deletion of the door pins was never planned to be a MY12 change and was introduced a few months later. As for MY12 changes happening at different times, this is absolute nonsense too. All production planned changes were done in an accurate and efficient manner. Bruss/Bravo73's was pretty much the last MY11 Evora before Lotus moved to MY12 and made all the updates in one hit. Other points brought up. The Evora sports exhaust (blue tipped) was never part of the sport pack and was a stand alone option (as stamped with "track use only") that could only be fitted after the car was PTS.d. The sports pack simply added titanium tips to the standard exhaust and were the same colour as the standard stainless steel ones (i.e not blue) Also the CR gearbox was never part of the sports pack and was also a stand alone option up until MY12, when it was then standardised. It seems odd that a lot of mis information gathers more momentum than accurate info. I've read so much dross over the 10 years of Evora ownership, and feel like I'm a broken record repeating accurate stuff. I read a while back someone stated the Evora interior door handles are from the Honda Civic, just looking at the difference in size surely highlights the stupidity of this. Still didn't stop Absolute Lotus Magazine putting it in print.
  49. 1 point
    Updated dyno results with a bit of mapping but still my original hardware. A healthy 401PS.
  50. 1 point
    for oil pressure located here, just need a T fitting


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