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  1. I bought my Evora from Bell & Colvill in September 2018 and they were offering their usual 50:50 payment option ie 50% up front and balance after 2 years at 0% APR. After all the negotiations and agreeing a good p/ex with Jamie for my Exige I had originally intended to pay in full but he offered the 50:50 so it seemed daft not to really. Anyhow, I have just received the letter from Lloyds re paying the balance at beginning of September as the original agreement, so went online to my account and after navigating my way round the site, it seems that due to Covid-19, they will offer a further 3 months payment holiday at no additional cost. I know the banks are, unusually for them, being more helpful at the moment re loan repayments, so I called to check and it seems yes I could defer the final balance for 3 months, still at 0% and without affecting my credit rating. So if anybody else has a similar loan arrangement due to end shortly, you may as well get an extra 3 months. I figure it's better off in my pocket than theirs right now!
    3 points
  2. Yes I’ve read other articles saying similar and having run my own business getting on for 30 years, I do have a very jaundiced view of banks in general, so under no illusion about how underhanded they can be. Nevertheless, since I’m never again likely to take out a mortgage nor a loan, I think I’m fairly safe. 😃
    3 points
  3. No, I don’t need to extend and had it been B & C providing the finance, then I wouldn’t but given it’s the bank who provided it and given how they’ve behaved towards businesses in the recent past, it does give me a small amount of satisfaction to take the additional time offered.
    3 points
  4. Not sure if I have posted this before but this is the extended version and shows many of our NHS heroes receiving their portraits.
    3 points
  5. I was assured it would absolutely not affect my credit rating and since it is a 0% agreement, there will be no additional cost implications. It is a situation many thousands of people all over the world are in, through no fault of their own, so it very clearly should not have any adverse effects on their credit rating. I’m also well aware I am simply taking advantage of the situation, despite not needing to, however I do view it as a bit of karma for the banks after the way they shafted so many innocent individuals and companies in the recent past.
    2 points
  6. Finally got a new plate on my VX220 SuperCharged.
    2 points
  7. I have an S2.2 with speedlines so other tires, but for those with an S3 or turbo esprit : rear : continental EcoContact 6 225/60 R15 96 W ( 270km/u)at 125€/pc front : continental EcoContact 6 195/60 R15 88 V (240km/u) at 80€/pc or rear : Barum Bravuris 2 225/60 R15 96 V ( so max 240km/u) at 85€.pc front : Barum Bravuris 5HM 195/60 R15 88 V (again max 240km/u) at 52€/pc I had Barum Bravuris in the rear on my Esprit in the past and they were OK tyres
    2 points
  8. Who else thought the last line was slightly over the top?
    2 points
  9. Dads been helping Alistair Florence out with this Blog, thought you might like a read! https://media.lotuscars.com/en/blog/1990-2020-thirty-years-of-the-ground-breaking-lotus-carlton.html
    2 points
  10. And, I'd give that lovely new cradle a couple of coats of paint while it's accessible as an investment against future corrosion if I were you.
    2 points
  11. Success, everything lines up, fits properly and all gears have been accounted for! The lever is reclined back from vertical by a millimeter or so still, but I'll accept that to be within tolerances. Its certainly a LOT better than it would have been if I'd carried on with the original bent cradle.
    2 points
  12. Been a while, time for some updates! I've had the car almost exactly ten months and 12,504 miles as of last night. Lets just say I took the advice that we were able to drive as far as we wanted to heart, and have been out around Sussex, Surrey and Hampshire a lot. Some thoughts on the last few thousand miles. Firstly, while I am very aware that I have a large amount of free time compared to most, I understand people that don't drive their sports cars much even less than I did when I first bought the car. The car has come alive since about seven or eight thousand miles, and I have considered it properly broken in since about ten thousand. The car hasn't put a foot wrong in my ownership, and I don't expect it to given that it's late in the model cycle and the Toyota bits. The interior quality has been good in my car, no squeaks or rattles to speak of. I don't think the interior is very well thought out for a car that, to me, is more of a GT than anything else, the lack of armrests is very irritating when on the way to more interesting roads and the position of the cupholder is similarly annoying, as well as there being only one of them. I realise that this position is often dismissed as the concerns of someone that doesn't drive their car properly, but I disagree. You can't be on it all the time, and for very very little weight penalty it would be nice to have a decent cupholder and elbow rest. I've spanked my car around the NC500 and loved it, but there was still a boring, 8 hour, 400 mile schlep up there to get out the way first which would have been greatly improved by having these small things. I believe I have complained about this before but I haven't checked previous posts, ahem. I'm considering adding them myself, the 400 door cards fit (although they're expensive) and maybe paying a visit to d:class auto to investigate a custom central armrest. In addidion to this, I'd really like a round, smooth steering wheel and to move the cruise control buttons off the wheel and onto a stalk. Thsi will need a bit of investigation and I'm in no rush at all, they're very minor things. Talking of modifications, I have done my first two! The 2bular exhaust was sourced courtesy of Nick at PJS Sports Cars who did an excellent job of fitting it as well as the carbon panel I bought myself. I've gone for a twin exit exhaust that should be a little quiter then standard for the track noise limits, enabling me to do my first ever track day soon! Most likely Donnington, for friendliness and run off purposes, ahem. I'm waiting for it to bed in and settle down before giving my final thoughts on it, but I'm pretty happy so far. The second bit was a carbon panel to replace the black plastic panel between the roof and the rear deck. This was from Elise Parts in Holland, and I'm satisfied. It's not a perfect match either weave or colour wise, and the line in the middle doesn't quite match up, but it's miles better than it was before. I'm really not very fussy about stuff like this when it's an aftermarket part, and how long do I spend looking down from above at that line anyway? No bother. Should it have been this way from the factory, or at very least been offered as an option? Of course. Lotus were proper, proper broke when they developed this car though, so I guess I'll given them a pass on that. Pics! Carbon roof by Alex D, on Flickr Dat ass tho... by Alex D, on Flickr Now, while I was at PJS, they weighed it for me... Lotus. Oh Lotus. You are supposed to make light cars, you know. The spec I have is probably the heaviest spec possible with extra weight options ticked and it had a full tank at the time, but still. 1 lardy boi by Alex D, on Flickr Other than all that, everything is going smoothly and I'm pretty happy with it. It would be nice if it was faster, but as it's kinda lardy, I accept it. If the decision is made to keep it then it'll be getting bumped to 500bhp as a minimum, however. Here are some more pics, although please excuse the condition. I'm much more interested in driving it than cleaning it, and so it's pretty much perpetually filthy. I've had a fetish for driving through fords recently, and here's a couple of snaps from the ford in Shilton, in the Burford area. This is long enough to get some good splash going, I might have to come back with a photographer friend for some action shots. Fresh out of the ford at Shilton by Alex D, on Flickr Fresh out of the ford at Shilton by Alex D, on Flickr I'd like to try and keep it looking like this: IMG_20200521_121836 by Alex D, on Flickr But really, it spends most of it's time looking like this: At rest in Burford by Alex D, on Flickr Here's some assorted random photos. I've got a long way to go before being able to get a decent shot of the car, but I'm trying. Brothers by Alex D, on Flickr Taking in the sunrise by Alex D, on Flickr Still working on the angles, ahem by Alex D, on Flickr Sunrise Silhouette by Alex D, on Flickr
    2 points
  13. With the rebuilt engine and gearbox now back in, and only the tidying up jobs left to do, I won’t be posting on this thread again unless there’s something interesting that develops, and even then I’ll probably post elsewhere on TLF. Hopefully, it’s been useful to TLF members, that was my sole intention anyway. It certainly wasn’t a vanity project, as I wanted to share the pitfalls, successes, the processes, and how I coped with what turned out to be a totally unexpected bloody marathon, when I’d only expected a sprint. All the work I’ve done has been in an attempt to improve and maintain reliability. And reliability is the key word. Roll the credits - A well-deserved special mention and thanks goes to Dave Lisle @CHANGES, for his sage advice and the loan of his engine building tools. Also, Connaught Competiton Engines for their precision work and knowledge of machining processes, and Paul Matthews of Forge Engineering for the UN1 gearbox rebuild and Quaife ATB install. Pretty sure I’d have been a lot worse off without them.
    2 points
  14. I never said I was fast, but it's getting there. The one piece primary shaft upgrade is a little more involved than I'd anticipated, notice that first gear is now straight cut which means the secondary shaft also needed attention. The new shaft was too long to fit under my press, so I had some more practice on the kitchen appliances. It's saved me £1500 by doing this myself, it really isn't rocket science, all thats required are a few basic gear pullers and a press. I did damage one of the diff bearings on removal, so have ordered some new ones, but apart from that pleased with the progress.
    1 point
  15. No we’re not but this afternoon I used the money to buy premium bonds so at least I stand a chance of getting something out of it.
    1 point
  16. 1 point
  17. I wonder if that cartoon was drawn by a bloke? Hmmmm....
    1 point
  18. Thanks for claryfying Bibs! In that case, no reason why you shouldn't take advantage of the opportunity. 🙂 I know some brands over here do the financing in house, but those are big companies so easy for them to spread the burden.
    1 point
  19. They get paid in full by the bank at time of purchase. They do have to pay a decent premium out of the 50:50 too, they effectively cover the interest on the loan out of their margin on the car.
    1 point
  20. Lotus offer further price reductions on brake and clutch kits
    1 point
  21. Don't start me on the builders - we are supposedly remodelling our house driveway and barn (read very big garage 🙂). We started the process last August and we still haven't had written quotes / estimates from most of the people involved - it supposedly starting in September. What gets me is that they are all happy to come up for a morning (in some cases two or three times - as they have forgotten what they are supposed to be doing). What little has been done (garage and barn doors) have been completely mis-spec'd by the fitters, the barn door has destroyed itself twice over the winter and I now need to brace it for high winds as we have only just discovered it is only rated to 59mph winds when we were told it was rated to 80mph - we live on Dartmoor ffs - it gets windy and we told them so. Rapidly looking for other builders / roofers - the roof won't survive another winter like last. So if anyone on here is only a half-arsed or better builder - move to Devon, you could make a fortune - it's a licence to print money, there must be so much work as if a customer has the temerity to ask 'How much is all this going cost' the local builders totally ignore you. Before COVID we were actually thinking of moving just because we just don't trust the trades people round here any more - our neighbours also had a hell of a time with there builders.
    1 point
  22. Same here 7 days a week. Took only 1 of the bank holidays, really needed this holiday/break/house move to de-stress. That worked well didn't it!!
    1 point
  23. I am totally agree with you. The buzzer is not really useful but the TCU warning is very important. I will contact AIM and let you know what they have to say 🙂
    1 point
  24. If you haven’t already done so, it’s a good idea to use copper grease on those gearbox mount bolt threads, especially as they’re so long and thin. Mine were seized when I came to remove the frame, and I really thought they were going to shear.
    1 point
  25. @Tocus this car hasn't been sighted as far as I'm aware, it definitely would be one for you. There was also Export RHD #0940 in white/brown full FYEO/Essex Spec, also not sighted again from @Veilside's list. Andy Graham confirmed it was delivered to Hong Kong new. So we have in 1980 white and brown #0928 (DOM RHD), #0940 (EXP RHD), #0953 (DOM RHD), #0954 (DOM RHD), #10311(EXP LHD). Only #953's whereabouts is known. We know #928 White Heat was scrapped. Still searching for the others. The 3 x MY81 white/brown cars are known, owned by @wolflyn, @GJones and Martin Williamson. Lex
    1 point
  26. Welcome to the Sports Racer club, they are wonderful cars.
    1 point
  27. Tell that to an ex-work colleague of mine who's partner died of Covid at the end of April.
    1 point
  28. Managed to finish off the gear linkage overhaul this evening having had a parcel of parts delivered this morning. When I took the exhaust cradle off the car I noticed one of the bolt holes for it in the RH mounting bracket had stripped its thread. When I went to helicoil it I noticed evidence of a welding repair, and fearing that may also have been contributing to the misalignment of the gear cables, along with the exhaust frame so I decided not to take any chances and ordered a new one. When I compared the old one with the new one I couldn't see any measurable difference, but as you can see its clearly been repaired and based on the success rate of all the other previous 'repairs' I couldn't trust the quality of it. New exhaust mounts fitted to the cradle The cradle all fitted back to the car and the gear linkage successfully set up as per the manual at last. Most of the centre tunnel has also been reassembled, but I haven't gone any further with the interior because I need to run some new wiring through to the centre console and its going to be a lot easier to do with the interior partially stripped out.
    1 point
  29. @red vtec there is a difference between "furlough" and the JRS (Job Retention Scheme) is there not? Any employee can be furloughed, however, there are defined rules for claiming for furlough'd workers under the JRS scheme through HMRC. There is nothing to prevent someone from being made redundant whilst on furlough (or indeed whilst not on furlough) but remember it is the "role" that is made redundant and not an individual. So you cannot make someone redundant in a role and then employ someone else in the same role. The key issue is around what the furlough is and is not used for. It is to be used to pay employees salaries (up to the limits), it is not to be used to substitute redundancy payments so if a business believes it will not be viable, it still needs to ensure it is able to pay the redundancy obligations they have accrued. Hope that makes sense.
    1 point
  30. That’s definitely my car but with the original Isle of Mann registration. Was in a lot better condition back then by the looks of it. Love the other cars too, not heard of the French one but Darrians and Davrians always look good. Trevor.
    1 point
  31. Tom - The wrinkle finish goes on well as long as you’re spraying it in a hot oven. If not, a hot-air gun is your best friend, you have to make sure the component is hot when the paint goes on, spray it, then play the hot air gun over it. The wiring loom is what it is. Short of constructing a new loom, my suggestion would be to lay it in, see where the wiring ‘wants’ to go, then connect it. Hoses also have an impact on where it goes. Make sure nothing chafes, or hangs unsupported. You might have to do that a few times before you’re happy with the cable run. Progress - I got the engine started after finding out the inertia switch was the reason the fuel pump wasn’t filling the fuel lines. Then the usual fill-up with coolant, and the long-winded ballache known as ‘bleeding the f*&#ing air out of the charge-cooler system’, which usually turns out to be a 3-day job on my car. Shame Pro-Alloy didn’t put a bleed nipple on top of the CC rad, but there you go. The engine runs fine, no banging, clanking or knocking, so I must have done something right. It’s reasonably quiet, or as quiet as a 910 could ever be, and definitely quieter than before. Oil pressure was 4 bar on start, which settled back to 1 bar at idle, but the oil wasn’t up to temperature so I’ll check that later. I haven’t balanced the throttles either, I need to get a meter for that, and the TPS will need setting, too. No CEL light illuminated, and everything seems to function as it should electrically. Thus far there’s no oil leaks from the engine or gearbox, whoopee! I might even push the boat out and put the undertray/oil catchment device back on at some point. The exhaust emission is clean, the previous incarnation would cough black soot out on start-up like some old smoker in the morning before lighting up his first fag, however this new version is clean as a whistle. I’ve still got work to do, the tailgate has to go back on before I put the boot floor in, then vacuum pump and connections, and do an idiot-check of absolutely everything I’ve done, making sure all pipework and electrics are properly secured, and protected against chafing. It’s taken a long time to do, but I haven’t been in any hurry, and I was held up some by parts supply and waiting for cylinder head work to be done. Time will tell, but hopefully this will have been a good job. There can’t be much else left to do on the car now, probably easier to list what hasn’t been done, but I’m sure I’ll find something else to tinker with.
    1 point
  32. Started putting back the snake’s wedding that is an S4s engine loom. I can’t help but think there’s a simpler solution, not that I’m about to rip it all out and start again. Trying to run the wiring where it wants to go with the least strain, I made some good progress, and there’s light at the end of the tunnel. I thought I’d better see whether it could make oil pressure before I got too much further, so out came the spark plugs, fuel relay, and crank sensor. Thought I’d cheat and use jump leads on the battery, but I couldn’t get a decent enough connection to turn the starter, so the battery went in the car. Spinning it up, no untoward noises or knocking, so that was a bonus. I gave it about 10 seconds to be kind to the starter, then checked the oil level, which had gone down, so good news. Another 10 seconds, and the pressure gauge was just over the red. The sump level had dropped again about a litre or so, so I figure I now have oil pressure and can continue onwards. I’ve ditched the FPR nylon return line in favour of some rubber fuel hose, and I’m waiting for some clips to arrive so that’ll be next week. Also, I’m waiting for a new inlet manifold vacuum connection to arrive. I’ve got two of them, but can I find them? Can I hell, I’ve searched everywhere, even emptied the bin, but no sign of them. No doubt I’ll find them as soon as the new one arrives.
    1 point
  33. UPDATE guys, after 3 attempts the beauty has started after 10 years of sleeping 😀😀 , first two attempts have been wrong as I have stupidly routed the dizzy cables 180°out....🤣🤣 but (thanks again Matt...) routed again in the right way the engine start immediately, what a sound! Perfect oil pressure, no water leaks from pump and pipes, no tappet sound, everything is just perfect, it's a Swiss watch! I have build engine temperature to see if the fans works and reached just below 90 they goes on immediately, I have not calibrated anything on the carbs but they are running very well and the idle is stable at about 900 rpm. What can I say?
    1 point
  34. Hoisted the engine up, flywheel and clutch bolted on. The usual problems with lining up, but I finally got the gearbox mated to the engine, and lowered into position. The wife directed the pre and post-install garage clean up, supervised the engine lifting arrangements, and handed me the correct tools when required. By way of a thank you, I’ve put a bottle of cheap Asda Prosecco in the fridge. I know how to treat a girl.
    1 point
  35. Interesting read on crank welding: https://www.dragracingonline.com/2018/november/crankshaft-rescue.html Laser Welding: http://www.e-m-p.biz/laser-welding/classic-cars/
    1 point
  36. Back in the garage, and now tackling one of my all-time favourite procedures, shimming the valve clearances. Getting this one right is the ticket to a smooth running engine. Get it wrong, and and it’ll be a rough runner. Get it badly wrong, and it’s game over. I have a few spare shims from the previous C-service I carried out, but with the work that’s been carried out on the cylinder head, I suspected they were never going to be sufficient for the task. Thankfully, those nice people at Connaught Competition Engines have boxes and boxes of all different sized shims, and offered to lend me the one in the ranges I wanted, so I don’t have to order any up. The downside to this was not all shims were in the right place in the box, so I did have to spend time measuring them up with a micrometer before I started. Last time around, the inlet valves were all within specification, the exhausts weren’t, but as I said, the head work meant those went out of the window. As I had to start from first principles, I first used identical shims for all the valves to get a baseline, and checked the clearances to determine the required shim thickness. The inlets worked out fine, however the exhausts proved a bit more difficult to get right. This wasn’t helped by me putting an incorrectly sized shim in when the magic marker I’d used wiped off it, which prompted some choice language! I’ve now got to a point where I’m happy with the clearances, though. I prefer to take them to the lower end of the specification, which has proved to be the best solution for my needs. I should finish the cam housings off tomorrow, so can continue with the sprocket change.
    1 point
  37. Yes, Ian, those are the discussion details to which I refer, thanks to you and to @Giniw for the insights. Where do you suggest looking for the reinforced rubber jointing, i.e. what is a typical use for the stuff?
    1 point
  38. Steve, I assume you mean this - ”5mm thick flat bar in the engine bay side, 2mm reinforced rubber jointing between the chassis tab and the GRP, 3mm thick spreader plate over the original plates, and fixed by M10 bolts with nylocs.” But I can’t take all the credit, I have to thank @Giniw for his insight into suggesting the noise could be caused by the chassis tab working against the GRP, and suggesting I try rubber jointing between them. Without that I really don’t think it would work as well as it does. I’ve driven the car nearly 7,000 miles since then. And yes, I’m still happy with the solution.
    1 point
  39. The plasterers have run out of plaster, I've run out of money, so stuff the bungalow. I thought I might sell it and buy an Evora, but with 20,000 bungalows about to become vacant I doubt it would fetch much. So time to self isolate in the tiny garage and have a go at fitting this GTO racing gearbox kit. First a steam clean, Then a good read of the manual followed by spanner time. Being split in halves makes this box relatively easy to work on, so here she is, like a Damien Hirst work of art. Nice and clean, no undue of wear on the synchro rings, forks or gears themselves, very fine metalic deposits on the magnet, so far so good. Now where's that Quaife...
    1 point
  40. Thanks Stephen, certainly turning everyone’s head but I’ll put that down to the Ti exhaust 😎
    1 point
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