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Showing content with the highest reputation on 18/08/20 in all areas

  1. I've joined the club!!! And yes......that picture is actually my car!
    8 points
  2. This car is now on my driveway. Search complete! Thank you to everyone for all their help. Really appreciated.
    7 points
  3. Straightforward process, but didn't see an obvious thread so took a few snaps whilst doing this tonight. Time required: an hour or so including a cuppa. Firstly you will need: 6x NGK Spark Plugs, Lotus P/N A132E6503F - at just over £5 a plug from the dealer handy as anywhere. These are NGK ILFR7B8 spark plugs for reference. Same plug used in the S/C Evora. You will also need: 1/4" socket with 8mm and 10mm sockets and extension 10mm spark plug socket, 3/8" or 1/2" drive. Double sided tape if your boot carpet doesn't tidly stick back up Instructions - the Front 3 Plugs Open boot lid. Remove black panel that sits above middle/rear of engine. It just pulls up and out of the way. Remove loom plugs on top of coil packs Remove 10mm locating bolts on each coil pack One at a time, remove a coil pack, then remove and then replace the spark plug. Instructions - 3 Rear Plugs The other rocker cover of the Toyota V is obscured by the clam. Pull back boot carpet - its held by double sided tape so should come away easily Remove 6 x 8mm bolts in the access panel as per photo below Remove the panel (you may gently need to prise out with a trim removal tool) This will reveal the heat shield access panel Remove the 4 x 8mm bolts You will now be able to access the three remaining rear coil packs and continue the same process as the first three. Refit is reverse of removal and all that.
    4 points
  4. Very broadly: Purge is in operation when the engine is warm, a minimum time since exiting crank has elapsed, there's a vacuum in the inlet manifold and closed loop fuelling is in operation. When the integrator is in an acceptable range the rate of purge is decremented when the HEGO indicates rich and the rate of purge is increased when the HEGO indicates lean. When the calculated dutycycle is above 85.5% (SE, other models may vary) then 100% dutycycle is used.
    3 points
  5. What gaiter have you bought? I used a triumph one from eBay (e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gear-Lever-Gaiter-for-Triumph-Spitfire-Triumph-GT6-Triumph-part-710820-/20155697348) and it was a perfect fit without any trimming required. I used a little silicone spray to aid fitting but that was it. There was nothing in those two threaded holes on mine having just checked my photos.
    3 points
  6. Instead of an Evira, how 'bout an Elvira 2 pot ? (salt & pepper shakers) 😉
    2 points
  7. Part 3 Generating shape and profile continued Following the glaze coat is the next stage of flatting, all by hand now.. Air tools can be a bit aggressive , leaving marks that will need filling again , so although its labour intensive by hand it can work out quicker.. Another reason for hand flatting is feel/ sound. It is not easy to explain but you can feel and hear how the surface is flatting out .. When it becomes uniform it has a different feel and sound to the stokes ( My therapist said what you are now thinking ). At this stage seeing the very slight deviations will be difficult even with a straight edge . Using a guide coat will help show up the odd spots etc , but I find by just wiping a hand over the surface you can pick out any low spots and defects. .. The next pic shows the roof really starting to form out now , with just a small build adjacent to the capping rail to bring into line (329) The next two pics show how the profiles of the roof and tailgate harmonize. The first shows the smooth progressive flow from one to the other which we had lost with the sunken tailgate (330) The second shows the consistent shape starting to form side to side, with the tailgate matching the roof line perfect (331) We can now start to progress down the tailgate length … As with most, the shape has sunk , the following pic’s will show what with have to start with and work from.. (280) (282) (283) (284) With the top front section being level where we have already formed, the back transom area is not far out , but as pic;s show the center substantially dips down over the length ,, This was the same on both sides. The next stage is to carry out the same process of build and flat to bring in line and match to the quarter panel profile .. It is also important to note that on the 'G' cars there is a stabilizing strut that need to be fitted to the inside of the quarter panel before finalizing shape. With out this the panel can flex and any shape will become inconsistent. TBC
    2 points
  8. Only where it is supposed to have . A lot will depend on quality of what you are looking at .. Area's where gel coat has de-laminated will be of concern .. Aggressive sanding of exposed GRP surface with 40 grit to key in primary repair. Then apply layer of resin with cloth or mat as you would to any damage repair area. ( I will be covering this type of repair a bit later in the thread ) .. As long as your gel coat or substrate is sound and crack free you can start working the finish.. Unfortunately media blasting can disguise gel crack , so you need to go searching.. Areas where it lifted during blasting will have been bad spots.. Its ones you can not see that come back to bite you. In situations like that I would orbital sand each panel one at a time down to a circa 300 grit.. This will be quite smooth . Then apply a thin stain coat by hand , wiping over the panel allowing it to soak down into any cracks .. Then stain should not put much colour on the panel but will highlight all the cracks .. you can then grind them out and carry out resin build repair as previously stated. .. ( don't over apply stain if cellulose based ) . Spraying an epoxy coat all over will only bury what is there already .. Unless you apply a tissue or similar layer within this , any cracks will eventually work their way up . If you are looking to do similar to what is in this thread, then only local repairs will be needed. You will see as the thread progresses, we use polyester coat to seal everything down once required form is achieved .. These are also far more resistant to cracking..
    2 points
  9. For future reference, yes its quite easy and straight forward. You have to remove the heat shield from between the engine and bulkhead, this is straight forward but one nut is captive the other is loose so you have to be careful not to drop it. I did this with the engine cold so needed my long bar to crack the sensor loose. One sharp tug to break the seal and it then just undid by hand. New one in and all fitted back. The fault light has cleared, the OBD reader is now clear apart from the catalyst cycle needs time to reset but need a longer drive, the 02 sensor cycle has reset. For reference, I googled the lotus part number which gave a generic Bosch part number and I bought one of those for less than half the price of lotus and I spent £12 on a set of o2 sensor sockets, so all in about £70, a lot less than just the sensor from lotus.
    2 points
  10. That's the good thing about an ex-press car, lots of professional shots on the web! I've found a few of the Murrry's photos and a scan of the coc if its any use to you. Gav
    2 points
  11. SuperGT300 race win in Japan.
    2 points
  12. Hello All - Bought my first Esprit last week. I'm very excited to be a part of this exclusive community and I look forward to learning from all of you. I've already gotten a bunch of enjoyment out of this '98 Esprit V8 and I've made a couple very minor repairs to window regulators. I know there will be more to come, but I feel honored to represent the brand and will take care of this one well until (maybe?) it becomes time for it to find its fourth owner. Still can't believe I managed to find one this nice and in such great working order. Cheers, Steve
    1 point
  13. Body , panel fit ,flat, gap, prep and paint. Part 1 Introduction Before undertaking any restoration, partial or complete, you need to ask all the relevant questions.. The main one is what do you or the customer expect from the finished result.. The next one is, how is going to be achieved. In this thread we will run through what was undertaken to achieve the specified body restoration requested by this customer.. The subject is 1982 Esprit turbo ‘G’ car. The customer’s request was to achieve a flat panel finish with all matching gaps, along with spot on panel alignment.. The paint finish should be flat with as much depth as possible. The focus was on emulating a hand finished show or promo car. Analysing the project The first consideration is a 38 year old GRP body with all the usual defects. These vary from gel crack, to flaking paint and micro blister, with some previous repair work etc etc.. However the biggest problem is the panel deviation.. Over the years GRP will move and distort. You can see this in most of the examples out there.. When they left the factory as new, the panel alignment and shape would have been much more consistent than what old father time has left us with now.. This is just the nature of the beast … The challenge is to not only return a 38 year old example to as new, but also move it onto the next level only found in show/ promo versions.. An inspection of subject Esprit did not show any horror stories, just what we expect to see.. Although several coats of paint in some areas, I felt sure there was no hidden nasties.. When I explained everything involved and the time span needed to complete the requested finish the customer said proceed.. The starting point. First we check and asses all panel fitting and contours. This will mean removing the panels and then refitting with new seals etc, shimming and adjusting to the best possible fit . By using a long flexible steel ruler as a plain gauge and straight edge, you can easily expose all the areas of concern. These can be marked up showing all the high and low spots. The aperture fitting is always testing, Gaps will end up going in every direction, so finding the mean position is all we can do. Once happy it’s the best it can be, we can start the graft . The following pictures show how the contours of the roof and tailgate have sunk and bowed. Stripping off all the paint exposing faults in the gel finish was next. Any obvious gel crack areas were immediately addressed by removing said gel coat in that area at same time. This is a selfless task that has to be done to get the best results. It is very important to establish a solid and structured base to work from for this type of finish… Straight forward repaints will only require rubbing back to provides a stable substrate to prime and paint over.. However we will be building the base layers using GRP and various polyesters and carbon fillers, to reshape the panel profile. If we were to do this over just a sanded paint layer, there is a possibility chemical/solvent reactions can soften the original paint making it unpredictable.. Unfortunately if dodgy paint layer is left, initially everything would seem fine and only some time later (months/ years) you can get wobbles in your flat finish or sinkage / mapping around repair build blend points .. This happens because the original paints eventually dries back, contracting and pulling on the surface .. On straight colours, if clear coat layer has enough depth, you may get away with another flat and polish , but you are usually stuffed with metallic finishes as the metallic in the base coat will shift and show fault . The next stage will be to address the areas pictured above , to achieve the desired shapes and gaps.. TBC..
    1 point
  14. That is an absolute bargain for someone. Bloody hell - it’s a new car.
    1 point
  15. Yes, I'd have to agree with you @ChrisJ the '8' is the giveaway. I work with fonts as part of my business, and we did the FYEO alarm sticker graphics for @Lotusfab as many aren't quite right. I released that these would have been hand made by the production arts department, so these were recreated in Adobe Illustrator in the same way as the outfit who produced Fabian's new tyre stickers. Number plates are an area of their own. Some plates of old seem to use an almost random set of characters and spacing. Yet others of those times do follow more expected formats and fonts. Since 2001 or thereabouts the font and size has been standardised. Probably in part to comply with EU standards. I think it will be difficult to replicate Jimmy Bond's Turbo plates as the font seems a bit odd. The '8' is the giveaway. Obviously they can be replicated, but possibly not from the usual sources that produce registration plates. It may be necessary to make a custom set, replicating them in a similar way as described above. However this process will not be compliant with current standards of current and period plates. I know that the film cars were prepared by Lotus Cars, and registered by them, so I'd assume the plates came with the cars, and not adapted in many ways by film production company (Eon in this case), which is usually the way. Without looking at the full character set, I doubt you'll be able to just expect the 1935 font to fulfill the requirement exactly. I'd be looking at the 'Old 1900' style. At least as a starting point.
    1 point
  16. Thanks for pointing that out. I realised at the time and then forgot about it. I will sort it at some point!
    1 point
  17. 2013 Evora S with only 1400 miles on the clock, all 3packs and 19”20” diamond cut wheels for 36k must be the bargain of the year? https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/10768149
    1 point
  18. I can sleep guilt free and not stress out Fabian now, looks like Fancy plates do the pre 2001 font plates. 😁
    1 point
  19. I like the sound of an entry level Evira 280 - where can I put a deposit down?
    1 point
  20. I knew it was something simple. 🤔 Great stuff thanks Derek. LOL Barry, That's exactly how mine is at the moment and has been all summer. I do get the occasional niff of petrol though. If you really wanted to use the Rover solenoid, all you'd have to do is fit a 7ohm (10w) ballast resistor in series to satisfy the ECU. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0-1-100-ohm-10W-High-Power-Resistor-SQP-Type/183468805331?hash=item2ab797ccd3:g:jagAAOSw4gpbtiZz Andy.
    1 point
  21. Well I gave it a few bids at the end was hoping for around 12 and bid up to 13273 guess its not the one for me, hopefully there is another out there with my name on it Thanks Dave
    1 point
  22. Don't you mean the older font was narrower? Reiterating previous comments, I'd snap down your bindings, regardless of "continuity", just in case those brakes scratch the louvres. Since skis are designed to flex in the vertical plane.
    1 point
  23. Fabian, you've done an amazing job and I know you are fastidious down to the last detail......and I don't want to sound like an arse but.........you do know your number plate is the modern font and not the old one! The modern font is narrower.
    1 point
  24. Great guy! I got this lovely pic of him.
    1 point
  25. 1 point
  26. Maybe its using the lucky eight ball algorithm to determine when to purge?!? 😂
    1 point
  27. I'm on my 3rd cover for my 3rd Lotus, These are much better than the American offerings and reasonably priced too.
    1 point
  28. Exactly, just an electro-magnetic, open/shut valve. Using the slightly smaller Rover canister should be fine in the UK's climate. You will likely need to use the original Esprit solenoid though. The solenoid is controlled by one of the Esprit's ECU quad driver circuits and is monitored. Using a different solenoid will likely be noticed by the ECU and throw up a code 26 error and bring the CEL on. Unless the Rover solenoid coil has roughly the same resistance as the original Esprit item, then it would be ok. Andy.
    1 point
  29. Hi Robin, Not so much regulation. Just allows the tank to naturally vent without stink. The tank vent tube is always open to atmosphere via the charcoal filled canister. Any vented smells are hopefully absorbed by the charcoal as the vapors pass to atmosphere through the canister's atmospheric vent tube. At no time is there any pressure (other that atmospheric) in the fuel tanks. Then, when the ECU dictates appropriate, the solenoid allows the inlet manifold vacuum to draw the vapors from the canister and burn in the engine combustion process, thus kinda regenerating the charcoal. This draws fresh air in through the canister atmospheric vent in the process. When the vapors are gone, it will be pure air that passes through the canister/solenoid and into the engine, albeit a very small amount. The ECU makes the mixture adjustments needed to accommodate this small amount of extra air (or vapor) Purging is only done when the engine will least notice the extra air/vapor, ie while driving above certain rpm's. Andy.
    1 point
  30. Hi Robin, I've previously taken an unhealthy interest in these canister systems and don't see the ECU making any such assumptions. Sailorbob will know re; Esprit specific. The ECU operates the canister solenoid whenever engine operation dictates suitable and likely continues to do so, whenever appropriate, regardless of whether the canister is purged or not. The largish Esprit canister is appropriate for the relatively large amount of fuel the Esprit can hold and as such, the large amount of vapour that could need need dealing with on a hot day. Or, more likely, it was available in the AC Delco parts bin and someone said, "that should do it." Fitting a smaller canister should be ok in temperate climates like the UK. Many modern UK cars have a very small canister of about 1/3 of the size or less. Andy.
    1 point
  31. Hi guys i have just searched through your forum and found this car being chatted about i am currently the highest bidder so thought i would join up and ask for your opinions on the car ? if i win the esprit i want to fix up the mechanicals and use it as it is like LOTUSMAN33 has said above as i think putting more money into it to get it back to standard would be an open cheque book, thanks Dave
    1 point
  32. Hi Gavin I have just recently been getting engine warning light with OBD code P0160 - Bank 2 sensor 2. It has happened after the last two times I have washed the Evora and after it has had time to dry out I have cleared the code and it didn't come back on, so I am guessing it is water in the wiring. Pedal Loud has a Youtube video showing similar For some tips on an alternative method of removing a stubborn sensor see this video The DeRoure link for the sensor is here https://www.deroure.com/partinfo.asp?MAK=1&MDL=20&TBL=12628&SMA=1&SMO=20&ST=sensor&SC=0&PBID=1087696 The Bosch part number is here https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/bosch-1149030.html but it can also be found on Ebay for a little as £50 for the genuine Bosch part. I bought two and might do both at the same time. I Haven't done mine yet as it is only throwing the warning after being washed.
    1 point
  33. @Mattmahope I placed the order yesterday, how did you know?! Hahaha Went for B6 screamers, in fa boy size.
    1 point
  34. Mine has a PNM ally one fitted, but if you're considering fitting the rubber gaiter from the top I personally wouldn't bother. I found it much less of a struggle to undo the pinch bolt that holds the lever into the master assembly (red circle) and remove the whole lot. You can then punch out the roll pin that holds the reverse collar in place (blue circle) and slide it off the shaft and the boot then slides on with minimal effort. Much easier to slide the boot onto this end like this 🙂
    1 point
  35. lies! I beat you to that one by nearly a year ☺️ While we're here, my B6 went back to the factory in the summer to have the padding panel set added, matched to the rest of the trim in my Cup. What a great job they did too, it only occurred o me now that I hadn't shared a photo....
    1 point
  36. Nice work Dave, can’t wait to see the car!
    1 point
  37. First time I've seen them on film - very impressed! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qoPww8I-1vA
    1 point
  38. Right you are, Steve, particularly with regard to avoidance of knock in blown engines. The thrust of my inquiry has been to ascertain what sort of octane my engine will require once rebuilt to a new spec, mindful of the sort of fuels readily available in Canada and the U.S. Cheers
    1 point
  39. Oh I know that feeling all too well. Always from “specialist” garages as well 😱
    1 point
  40. That looks great. When you said lip and I saw the pictures I immediately though of those Ethiopian tribes who use a lip plate to extend their bottom lip. It's traditionally a sign of social significance or wealth, so interpret that however you like!
    1 point
  41. I feel that was bound to go quickly, you were getting a quality car for a very rare price. It's a true bargain
    1 point
  42. Part 2 Generating shape and profile of roof and tailgate. As the previous pictures show the top of the tailgate profile has sunk significantly and the body line is now inconsistent. This same problem was on the main roof area but not as obvious in photo’s . Unfortunately the curse of this type of restoration is even the slightest waver will be seen in the reflection spoiling the whole effect. Any deformity on the roof area will jump out at you because of its location to the eye line .. Looking at any panel head it on will disguise faults. But create an angle of view below 45 degrees and things start to appear.. When a paint finish has an orange peel effect , below this angle you start to see it clearly. However an orange peel effect can also take your focus away from general panel deformation, this is why some restorers never fully colour flat. You can test this analogy on any car finish, you may be surprised what you start to see.. Using a straight line in any reflection or strip lights as I do, will also help your eye focus on the actual surface profile as well as paint finish quality. In the following pic of roof section it is hard to see the fault , but it has sunk around 1mm by the yellow X, also in the foreground you can pic out when air pockets under the original gel coat have been exposed on the capping rail. (0256) These sort of dips and hollows are all over the roof panel and only visible with this method or in final finish. So extra attention to detail here pays dividends later .. The roof and the tailgate roof extension should have a natural slight curved shape from side to side and front to rear. This slight dome effect is what gives the panel a certain rigidity. On the next pic you can just make out the curve , also a small dip in the center between the two red dots.. (0261Li) This all may seem very petty to most. In the above pic you get the impression there is not much wrong with any of the above, even though previous views have shown how far out things actually are. Photo’s , especially without gloss finish will disguise the true shape . So correcting these faults requires generating a fresh surface skin , lifting all the sunken points and sculpting the optimum profile. This is a very long messy and quite intensive process to get spot on . It requires constant building and flatting until desired shape it achieved .. On these roof area’s , mainly due to the amount of building up needed, especially on the tailgate, we used a carbon fiber filler .. This provided the volume, rigidity without the weight.. Following pic shows things progressing with additional application of carbon fillers needed on the tail gate . (0290) A lot of the initial work can be done with air sanders, Orbital and flat bed, but as the shape forms you will need to use all hand blocks and planes etc, with guide coats . The next pic shows the roof now starting to get the true shape , with matching profile across the shut line with tailgate .. A final skim over with 180 grit on DA (orbital sander) to ensure all traces guide coat paint is removed . (292) Next step is to apply a glaze filler , This is a fine grain , quite fluid filler , which we use to eradicate all the finer defects . It will also provide a substrate that can be worked to a high degree of finish. With this application we can now start to hone the final shape .. When applying and sanding we also level up the height of the roof to the capping rails. They should be in the same plain and match up leaving the appropriate gap for the finishing trim to be attached .. Whilst doing this it is necessary to insert a shim the same thickness as the finishing trim under the capping rail to insure correct height is maintained when finally fitted up . ... (293) It should also be noted , that between each filling process, sufficient curing times should be allowed. Although these are activator hardened in less than 30 min , in can be several hours before full cure has occurred. This will vary on temperature and accuracy of ratio on mixing.. Working the surface after just 30 min is common practice , but the best and more accurate results are achieved by allowing more time .. ( These will also vary with different products and application ) TBC
    1 point
  43. I hope that Lotus will always consider their old/legacy customers with their old Toyota engines (4 or 6 cylinders). 🙂 My experience with the Lotus service network in France is not really "outstanding". It's complicated, more than I expected, to find qualified technical guys. So my concern is what will happen with the new Lotus strategy 🤔
    1 point
  44. Last Friday's Metro...
    1 point
  45. 1 point
  46. Neil Heat the copper washer on the gas hob holding with a scriber or similar until glowing cherry red then quench in water, this will anneal the washer, it will seal fine then. I do this with all copper washers and not had a leak since, if the surface of the plug or housing is very rough then a little loctite 574 or similar car help provided the area is clean first. Dave
    1 point
  47. Gavan is incredibly knowledgeable and a thoroughly decent guy too. Hell of a racer as well, best driver I've ever been in a car with
    1 point
  48. I’m in - as of later this week when I take delivery... 2014 Evora S Sports Racer IPS...
    1 point
  49. We were just holograms Tony..... didn't you notice Kev flickering?🤣
    1 point


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