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  1. I've volunteered the MIL.
    3 points
  2. The forum software will resize them to a max of 1200 pixels wide so they display inline ok.
    3 points
  3. So, I used to own a dry-sump car identical to this, and now own a wet-sump car identical to this. Without opening the engine cover you cant tell the difference except that on the dry sump the oil pressure takes ages to come up after starting, if it has been left for a while, and you can hear the oil glugging into the oil tank. The hidden differences are difficulty in checking exact oil level and a potentially huge bill if the complex and unavailable lubrication system fails. Its understandable that the numbered Essex cars should be premium priced but does not follow any logic that a dry-sump non-Essex should be any different to a wet-sump identical early Turbo. But then again the classic car market is not logical....
    3 points
  4. Exige + quiet road = 😁 Random pic taken in the middle of a “spirited” drive in the summer.
    3 points
  5. Yes it’s been just up the road from me for all those years Tom, i sold it due to peer pressure from friends as I was the only one with a two seater so my car wasn’t used on trips or outings. This didn’t last long before I bought a black 84 Turbo missing my S1. The guy I sold it to had it stolen and although they didn’t get far they managed to damage the front spoiler and break the screen. I think it was at this point the colour was changed to yellow and the white leather dyed the same to match. The owner thought it was a S2 being on a ‘T’ plate so SJ sold him the spoiler to suit, he had no idea it had a turbo kit so the bodyshop fitted that during the repaint. The DVLA should never have issued a newer plate when the private reg came off so should have gone back on a ‘S’. I have bought the correct Turbo spoiler already to suit the Turbo look and as you say for nostalgia reasons I will be putting the car back to how it was for the time and enjoying it. We plan to move to a bungalow in Cornwall in the next 2 years once my son leaves for university so doing a full S1 restoration just isn’t practical at the moment. I will keep hunting down the parts though as need the S1 repair panels, two front wheels, a S1 dash (not clocks or binnacle), rear glass and a pair of door cards. I have the rear wheels, seats, steering wheel, centre ashtray, wheel centres, centre console, mirror, dash vents already. I plan to get a provenance certificate to get the correct interior trim combo and finally return to Lagoon blue doing a body off restoration once I have a big garage built on the new property. I am tempted to apply for the BRX246T plate when I owned it but think I may as well just go for its original now instead. My current priority is my JPS as having two off the road Esprits just isn’t practical and my motorcycle is now trapped in the garage 🙄 I have ordered loads of service parts for the S1 so when the weather warms I will change the tanks ( I already have two alloy ones), fit a new pump, belts and do what I can to run, I may have to pull the engine though as like the JPS it has leaks everywhere and the clutch is stuck. I’m tempted to fit a HC engine as the current engine has been changed from original anyway so keeping my eyes open 👍🏻 After a quick wash removing all the bugs, dirt and rubbish,I found the missing CX501 centre caps in the car which was a bonus. One bit of fantastic news is the owner had lost the keys so I visited my parents where I lived at the time and found a spare set in the loft with half the air filter ( yes I fitted the K&N’s 🤭 all those years ago knowing no better). I pretty sure the steering wheel and other air box back plate are up there just so much stuff to dig through along with my other set of Essex cam covers. I need to find a spare wheel at some point as that’s gone during its previous ownership and the little knob for the electric mirror adjustment. I’m not even going to attempt to dye the seats back to white so they will be coming out and getting fully trimmed by the chap doing my JPS interior once it’s back, I have already picked the materials and agreed a deal. Really looking forward to driving it again and still pinch myself to make sure it’s real and my old car is home, best xmas present ever! 😊 Dave
    3 points
  6. 2 points
  7. You think I want to deal with insurers
    2 points
  8. Yes, I'd agree with @LOTUSMAN33 regarding the images. As someone working in field of content creation I always work at full resolution, involving Terabytes :D Take the dashboard out as I described. Why make a half job of it? Bite that bullet!!
    2 points
  9. I always go medium or large with no issues over the years, those images aren’t very good as is Jon. 👍 Good job with the wheels, you’re flying along now 😉 Dave
    2 points
  10. Well done Jonathan. Those are a great purchase. I had to go with new at 3x the price. With some turning up at an Autojumble 2-3 years later. As with the old adage, it's the size that matters 😄 and these look the business. They'll give you just enough height to work on the underside and not be too high to make a good job of the roof. Which in your case will be useful. Their diameter means that they'll also offer the least rolling resistance. The weight carrying ability isn't a major factory with an empty body shell. From memory, the lower dash is fastened to the crash member beneath it by screws located through metal tabs mounted either side of the item. It may locate into the upper dash at either end also, though not sure. The main thing is to remove the binnacle and instrumentation first. That will help expose the lower dashboard better. The loom fits into the glove box for the fuse boxes. Obviously the glove box removes also if need be. Remove the lid too if that helps. The loom connects to the interior light switches in the door jam too. The centre console needs to come out first also of course. I don't think there's anything more complex about it. It's been a while since I removed mine. The sills are attached by large rivets which need drilling out. Together with mastic (I refitted everything with Tiger seal, choosing black as the bring best colour - buy at least 3 for the whole car for cost effectiveness. More if resealing the quarter light windows. The rivets are located on the underside along the inner edge of the edge. Be careful as the sills here could be worn, and can be repaired prior to painting. Other rivets are in via the top of the inner sills (door jam), and also under the petrol tanks (2 or 3 from memory). Those are tricky to access. If you haven't already you need to invest in a good quality paint scraper type tool. Strong and long, like Andrex. But also thin enough to wedge between the panels and cut the old mastic sealant. I also used a thin knife to do this, but mine had been refitted with enough mastic for the car to exceed Mach 1 without panels flying off. For reference, I painted the body shell underside with black satin Raptor up to sills, not beyond (over them), which looks great. The underside of mine was looking a bit worn to leave original. It finishes off the car well. Though you'll need the painter to move the shell around on the dolly to access it without hinderance. I bolted the body shell onto the dolly via the seat mount holes, which were accessible for this purpose.
    2 points
  11. Big set of castor wheels arrived off eBay today for £30 delivered, hefty items! I was concerned they wouldn’t be big enough even though they are rated to 150Kg each, but they seem immensely strong.... I’ve a little scrap wood and an old pallet I’ll bash together to make a dolly over the next few weeks. Can anyone help with the question regards lower dash removal please? That and the outer sills to do and then I can get the body booked in somewhere....
    2 points
  12. I'm sure @Bibs will be along to recommend the firm he used (or has while I type), but I'll add to that CarLimits.com who operate out of North Weild near Harlow. I know you're not planning on track days and at first glance these sort of things may look tailored to that but they're about getting to know your car by taking it to the limit (actually you'll likely reach your limit of skill before the car's limit is reached), then dialling it back so that you know how far you can go before the car does something which you're not prepared for.
    2 points
  13. Hi Chris, Here are some more pictures of my Elite, as requested. The photos were taken for a recent feature in Absolute Lotus magazine after my car had undergone a two year restoration at Lotusbits.
    2 points
  14. But, to be serious for once, I think these cars have done splendidly to last the way they have. How many 80s cars do you see on the road? So, when I come to do my suspension next year it will be a blast and maybe a coat of some protective paint here and there. That will outlast my ability to drive it. I see no value in making something pretty if I'm never going to see it in normal use. Function over form. My opinion! Each to their own.
    2 points
  15. Car restoration and making everything look nice and work properly is a very rewarding hobby for many people. Its nice if the looks are maintained if the car is driven! Any decent car restorer will have done all the chafed wires, earths etc as a matter of course along with all other functional items as well tacking aesthetics. There are those who add loads of bling and mods to cars and get them detailed with all kinds of expensive paint coatings etc but they still drive like a pig and break down but thats not what restoration is about.
    1 point
  16. Untreated/untreatable dementia creeping in now .... Who mentioned Logan's Run ? It's OK folks, I know it was @Barrykearley 😉 It all seems pretty dystopian to me at the moment. Now I'm being told to open the windows to let covid out (which I don't have) but will I let any particles in ???? Bo((*cks.
    1 point
  17. Once, on our way to Ian & Shan's, we'd forgotten to bring a bottle of wine, so stopped at an establishment in Margate to pick one up. I walked in and asked what wines they had. She said "red and white." Yes, she really did.
    1 point
  18. Final config ..... of "Upper Interior" the front-facing side of the visor is in matching white (like the head rail)
    1 point
  19. 1 point
  20. Blimey - £170 to see what rolled off the line - maybe I'll just leave them as they are Thanks for the link, though ......
    1 point
  21. Yes, but finding something other than French wine on their shelves is more difficult than a finding a virgin round here.
    1 point
  22. Here's some post's on the solenoid mirrors. If you're not sure, you can compare your door switch, which will be different for solenoids vs motors. The whole mess relies on the ball joint the mirror is mounted on having enough stiction to hold the mirror in place but still move a bit when the solenoids kick. A little corrosion and you're done, hence the WD40 fix. As a dread prior owner, I could not put the solenoids back in, I swapped in the guts from a pair of ebay motor operated ones and added a switch to suit. I took mine apart verrry carefully with a heat gun to soften the adhesive behind the mirror glass while I gently pried it off. Odds of breakage are higher than you'd like though.
    1 point
  23. Well who would have thunk it - so if we “crash out” as the bbc so like to refer a no deal situation - we actually have multiple choices. Maybe we won’t starve after all. on a side note - my old chap owns and runs a machine shop - he’s never been busier - and it’s noticeable that uk sourcing companies are indeed swapping back to uk supply chains 👊
    1 point
  24. I had the same issue with my brothers S2. As you say they are not motors but solenoids that click when you move the switch. Each click should move the mirror by a small amount. On my brothers car they had stopped moving so took it off the car, sprayed WD40 behind the glass for a week or so and kept operating the mirror until it worked via a power supply. It did free up eventually without resorting to a strip down. C43
    1 point
  25. Noted on the image size, clicking back through and some are very grainy. Will do on the dash, if I go that deep the loom will be coming out also, which is a bit scary, but reckon I can get it back approximately in place for an auto electrician to sort it properly. Managed to get a set of Kangol belts from eBay over the weekend to reintroduce the ‘seatbelt’ circuit light back onto the dash. Seems a lot of these lights were physically missing behind the legends. Choke / brake etc. I’d like them all working properly when the car is going again. I expect the belts aren’t exact but they seem closer to what I remember than the ones in there at the moment. Had a few chats today regards the front end and if to go S1 or stay S2. Maybe some moulds available that enable a lower wing nose graft to be created more easily than I first thought and experience of doing this. Will weigh it up as I progress and I’m a bit earlier to get to this stage than I first thought (“ha, just wait.....”) Gently placed one rear 3/4 glazing pane into the aperture for motivation and a high res engine shot as the last was grainy....
    1 point
  26. Have a look at a product I discovered recently. It’s called Lanoguard and is derived from Lanolin. Very thin and easy to apply at normal temperatures but dries tona very smart satin black finish and is resistant to pressure wash and of course normal road contaminants. Features very strongly on Facebook and has a good enthusiastic following. I’ve not yet used it extensively on my cars yet but early signs are very good
    1 point
  27. Sorry a bit late to the thread but thought I post in case anyone else come across this in the future. There are many companies that will recycle your old catalytic components and give you money for them. They are made from rare and expensive materials which can be salvaged so there is still value in them. When I changed my headers for Larini ones I got quotes of £70 to £120 for my old headers. Not going to change your life but will pay for a fancy meal out for not very much effort.
    1 point
  28. It's worth whatever you or someone else is prepared to pay. Not trying to be obtuse here but it is a rare, special car, in outstanding condition, with great provenance. It's difficult to compare cars like these and they will be bought more with "heart" than "head" I would hope.
    1 point
  29. Yes, prior to '85 I think 😀 The solenoid operated ones move with a clicking action every time you toggle the switch, as opposed to the constant motion of the motor operated ones 😀
    1 point
  30. Am I right in thinking that early mirrors do not have motors but solenoids which click and move the mirrors? Mine has motors but they are not correct or original to the car...
    1 point
  31. Thanks all. Off to see the Red one, just got off the phone with the dealer, very helpful, he sent a walk around video, and it looks in great condition, in the walk around video, I saw the sport button, which is good. Its had a new clutch, and cam belt with timing chain in March this year, at a large cost! And a large file if invices, apparently it was ex lotus management, then the current seller, so not many owners.
    1 point
  32. Fear not! The British climate is becoming more favourable to viniculture which is, BBC experts say, down to Brexit.
    1 point
  33. Yorkshire tea is about as much Yorkshire as Eric Morecombe. It does make a nice tasting brew though.
    1 point
  34. BBC last night & on iPlayer - The Hill with Sean Connery. https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/m000qdxm/the-hill
    1 point
  35. Well I'm thinking about not eating or drinking any of that foreign muck. It's Yorkshire puddings and Yorkshire tea for me in future 🤪
    1 point
  36. The car limits course at North weald is excellent way to drive your own car to your limits very safely and at reasonable price
    1 point
  37. New tyres is an absolute must. Every single esprit I’ve ever bought has come with antique tyres - Esprits are lethal and awful to drive with old rubber.
    1 point
  38. https://catdrivertraining.co.uk/ https://www.thelotusforums.com/latest-news/our-news/the-lotus-forums-driver-training-day/
    1 point
  39. It’s only going up by about 40% @Dan E - maybe you could try some decent Herefordshire cider instead 👌
    1 point
  40. I gave up and simply etch primed and top coated with enamel spray paint. Seemed the easiest and simple way without having to take expensive bits too and from places.
    1 point
  41. I haven't bought French wines for years. I usually stick with Aussie, or English wines from Kent. If the BBC is more interested in moaning about the price of Brie, then they can do one, because they should be reporting that there’s plenty of really good British cheeses which beats it hands down, instead.
    1 point
  42. Update on the tyres. Ordered the R888r, sidewall is about 11mm shallower on the rears than standard - but they have a good roundness to them so it’s hardly noticeable. Done my sidewall stickering today using the new dry sump range by tyrewallstickers.com and they look great. Obviously look a bit out of place off the car and in bright white, but that’ll soon change. Thought about doing them after tyre is on the wheel but this made it all a bit easier. They took about two hours to do and was a really easy process, can’t even get a pick underneath any to try and peel them off. They’re stuck fast but only time will tell! Got new aluminium centre caps and badges too, so I’m ready for the 3pc wheels to come back and get it all assembled ready for the car to be done at paint.
    1 point
  43. This is one of my favourites I discovered during a visit, it has an amazing taste at room temperature. Always buy British 🇬🇧 Dave
    1 point
  44. Thanks, did some mods in the meantime and check it out! Also changed the red black to gold black theme for now.
    1 point
  45. Chassis has been completed a while ago.
    1 point
  46. Beginning of restoration 3 years ago.
    1 point
  47. If you own an Elise built between these years and have not recently been in touch with a Lotus Authorised Dealer or Repairer, please contact your local one regarding the Fuel Injector Rail Recall to have it checked and repaired if required. This does not affect cars in the USA.
    1 point
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