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Showing content with the highest reputation on 21/12/20 in all areas

  1. Happy Christmas fellow wedge owners - or as close as we can manage this year!! Hopefully there will be some meet-ups next year! Winter Solstice today! Spring is on it's way 😄 Pete
    7 points
  2. Well 4 years in on my 400 and 20k miles. Fancied a change but is a difficult one to replace, so after the big service at Oakmere, I have treated it to a detail and ceramic coating
    5 points
  3. Probably funnier to me as we live in Waverley (T2) surrounded by T4, but
    4 points
  4. With the previous areas completed , there was just the door handle mod to complete on the drivers door .. Starting with a painted original , we remove and fit a template to work from, which outlines the new handle. Next we grind down the thickness of the panel so the new handle can fit flush . This recess will also provide the lip for the for the new handle to locate into .. The original square shape is profiled at the same time to mirror the internal section of the new handle . Once completed the mask can be removed and the new handle fitted.. A small amount of final fettling is needed to insure suitable clearance around the handles edge is available for any polyester a paint build up. But as with anything Lotus , you change one thing and another jumps out at you .. As i said previous the later handles have a completely different lock assembly they marry too . The actuation levers are in opposite and conflicting planes. So a little poetic licence had to be taken to get the new to work with the old .. The above pic shows the original simplistic assembly , with its compact fitting so not to interfere with the window frame and door bar .. Below is my adaptation to use the new handle with the original catch assembly, which works really well considering .. The trick was to keep it as simple as possible .. Finally all the paint is removed from the door in preparation for next stage .. One of the unforeseen problems and a real pain was the new paint that was put on a year before .. Up until now all the sections worked on had some gel crack or damage so paint removal was a given .. Unfortunately this presents a dilemma on the undamaged panels that were just down for repaint.. Putting new paint over soft paint will only lead to major long term issues , or more than likely cause a solvent reaction.. Isolating is an option , but this will only mask a problem and still leave a soft substrate .. So the only solution is to carry on removing all the original soft lacquer coat .. To give you an idea of what i am dealing with , the following pic is of the sand paper used on the DA to remove this layer. As you can see almost immediately the grit pinned with the soft paint layer .. This made a tedious job very frustrating.. using a lot of DA pads . but Hey Ho its all part of what we love doing .. The tailgate was the worst , for some reason it was laid on there really thick.. It took a whole day to get it down to a satisfactory stable layer with a grit level that was exceptable to work from .. Interestingly during this process we did identify a few other points that needed addressing at the same time , so plus points all round .. next up final prep before polly coat
    3 points
  5. Who did the top end work? Do they know liners need to be clamped if still using original sealant? i.e. It could be leaking water from either top or bottom of liners! Its a bit of a smoking gun that work was done a few hundred miles ago. Revs falling back slowly could be something as simple as lack of free play in cable, linkage or balance badly adjusted. If none of them, then I would suggest an air leak of some description.
    2 points
  6. Just a brief update in the spirit of the season, if not the prevailing times😬. With alternate accessory brackets nearing readiness I've gotten well into fabricating alternative, Turbo style engine mount perches whilst awaiting latest batch of bits from SJ. The early chassis affords little clearance to spare in regard to the dry sump oil pump, hence the need for such creativity on the accessories installation. I intend to trial the SJ uprated engine mounts kit but wish to hedge with the Turbo style in the event that the poly perishes too readily under the exhaust side conditions. Best of luck to all as we persevere through these headwinds, Steve
    2 points
  7. Don’t use sealant under ant circumstances. You need to compression test the car.
    2 points
  8. Might have to increase it from 19p a bag!! Would be nice for the farmers to actually get paid for it.
    2 points
  9. He messaged me about the mot shortly after it had been fitted. I mentioned that a shite wheel like that is probably fine on a low powered fwd ladies car 🤭.
    2 points
  10. Part 14 To get a Naked Bottom , '' in the pink'' .. Before we can start getting the bottom sorted , we need to remove the Chassis .. So first set up the lifting frames. Next locate in position with all fixtures and fittings removed . Then lower the chassis from the shell in one smooth action . Job done . just need to park the shell in the upper position so most of the frames can be removed and we can get down to the dirty work .. As you can see from the above picture some under-body protection had been previously applied which was showing its age.. Before we can apply coats of Raptor , all this crap has got to be removed... Leaving it is not an option , it will only peel off over time and be a real let down . So do it right and do it once .. Unfortunately there is no easy way of doing this ... it needs to be scraped off a bit at a time .. But we do start to see the bottom in the pink. Next more of the same ..
    2 points
  11. Unless Russell Carr has forgotten his glasses and decided he doesn't like designing cars any more, I'd say no
    2 points
  12. I’ve placed it on watch 🤣
    1 point
  13. Lol I may have to quote you on that sometime fella 😁
    1 point
  14. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1983-Lotus-Esprit-S3-low-mileage-very-light-n-s-front-damage-very-easy-repair-/114588001734?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Something to tinker with Barry over the winter 😁
    1 point
  15. Drain the oil and replace with a decent fully synthetic oil, take it for a 20 mile drive, check dipstick.
    1 point
  16. I might know of one for sale if you mean it.
    1 point
  17. Hello mate, happy to go at a bit of diagnosis, Tier permitting, in January.
    1 point
  18. A leak-down test would be advisable, and you could then check not just whether there's a leak from the cylinder but also where it goes to. Even if you don't have access to a full kit to compare cylinders you can do it by putting compressed air in via the sparkplug hole and checking for signs of air leak, out vid dipstick = rings, out via oil filler = valve guides, bubbles /disturbance in coolant = HG or bottom liner seal ( as per Steve's post), out via exhaust or carbs = valves.
    1 point
  19. It looks a nice car but either the dealer takes a fee for introducing you and the owner....or they are selling the car. If they are selling the car with an invoice from them and you pay them, then your purchase is covered under the Consumer Rights Act (or its successor in name). I had this once with a much older car. I ended up with a £6K bill shortly after purchase. I asked the dealer for £4K contribution (long story, they failed to fix issues, I got them fixed etc...). I issued a summons, they paid £3K to settle. The key to the legal argument was how they described the car in the sales advert. The car was described as immaculate and ready for years of trouble-free motoring...........what a mishtaker to maker. Any car advertised (privately or dealer) is legally required to be 'as described'. The PJS advert is certainly not over-promising anything but you still have legal rights if you are paying PJS for the car. So be careful when wording your adverts. 'No warranty implied or given' is not a get-out if your description is (significantly) inaccurate. Justin
    1 point
  20. IIRC, when I sold my Evora through Silverstone on SOR basis the fee they took included for them to provide the necessary warranty. However, as I understand it, a car dealer is under no obligation to offer a warranty although a purchasers rights under consumer laws still prevail. The buyer’s contract of purchase is with the dealer if bought from them. This is worth a read https://www.unicominsurance.com/insurance-news/cars-sold-on-sale-or-return/
    1 point
  21. Interesting - they might well have done - We need someone with an S2.2 to give us a comparison... Part of Lotus's process of continuous improvement... 🙂
    1 point
  22. It may be same in shape, but I'm not sure if Lotus strengthened it in some way to cope with the galvanisation process. I've seen some images of shocking twisting and buckling of S1 chassis which have been galvanized.
    1 point
  23. S2.2 is the same as an S2 but came galvanized as far as I am aware -
    1 point
  24. They (Lotus original guides as well) are designed to use a small amount of oil to lubricate them, so seals will be detrimental in that respect.
    1 point
  25. They have to follow the line taken but the Mail, the Express, The Telegraph and the FT
    1 point
  26. So over 40 countries have shut their borders to us,pity they didn't do it to China when this first happened
    1 point
  27. just remember that the French surrendered to Hitler with barely a whimper .. tells you all you need to know about the resilience of their backbone let them close Calais as long as they want - we will just have to eat British!
    1 point
  28. It should scare the bejesus out of you. I had a fwd 300hp Focus RS a few years ago and full throttle in second or third was a wrestling match between me and the car. It wouldn’t bear thinking about with only half a steering wheel 😬
    1 point
  29. Thanks for the tip. My GP surgery hasn’t contacted me either, so I just booked an appointment online at my local Boots 👍
    1 point
  30. https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1994-brooke-190me
    1 point
  31. Next, the engine was rebuilt. Lighter "H" connecting rods, rings, shells, gaskets, etc. and steel liners were incorporated.
    1 point
  32. An Evo 5 or 6. RS if you might. The best 4wd I ever drove. Or too keep it japanese... A NSX?? The real one of course from the 90's
    1 point
  33. You tend to use the Digital Speedo in a MINI, much easier to see/clearer. VOE Hmm, low powered. I've said it quite often to people comparing my car and the missus' and I can assure you that the torque steer generated by the 231BHP being put through the front wheels of these is far more likely to put you in a bush than 400 through the rear wheels of an Evora . They can easily and cheaply be mapped to well over 300 bhp - but the thought scrares the living bejesus out of me!!
    1 point
  34. Just heard that monumental bell end Vine on Radio 2 moaning and doing his usual whiny hand-wringing about the horrendous queues of lorries in and around the Port of Dover due to it being closed off due to COVID. So, here’s a screenshot of Dover. Can you see all those red lines indicating the horrendous queues and traffic jams? No? Well, neither can I.
    1 point
  35. Thats a close 2nd to and esprit for me.
    1 point
  36. Thats going to take some getting used to. How many times do you grab a hand full of air. Guess the airbag wont perform as required either.
    1 point
  37. I'd recommend you read How to Restore Fibreglass & Bodywork also How to Restore Paintwork by Miles Wilkins a Lotus restorer of many years.
    1 point
  38. Are there MOT rules regarding steering wheels. I’m not convinced that’s even safe. And yes, it looks shite.
    1 point
  39. No we are OK for toilet roll Barry, we still have some left from the first lockdown 🤪. It's the Brussel sprouts that have got me worried.
    1 point
  40. I have recently bought a set from Deroure and they are level with the top of the sill.
    1 point
  41. Perhaps he was a taller person obsessed with viewing the legal range of the speedometer?
    1 point
  42. T5R great car, especially for lairy oversteer in the snow but you'll find it a bit of a clumsy boat after the Evora. Something Japanese is a good shout though, a bit different. Quite like the R34 myself, it looks incredible... Also GranTurismo... What are you going to do, it's burned into my brain.
    1 point
  43. Hello fellows, I got some exciting news for you. I ran for dyno today with Imran's air intake system and the result is superb. Allow me to do some explain first: Dyno run is useless if you just do a "single" run and no compares under the same dyno machine. Because the number could be dramatically variable depend on the dyno machine, the method, the air temperature or maybe your car's mood. And there're two type of dyno machine: Happy dyno & Sad dyno. Happy dyno like "Dynojet" always can give your the number pretty close to the offical manufacturer sometime even higher than the manufacturer's claim. And Sad dyno like "Mainline" will always surprise you with a much lower number than what is should be. Please keep this in mind: There is no right or wrong. Cause different dyno machine run much different numbers so the only useful number is the difference on the same car with different tune run on the SAME dyno machine. And this is pretty much what I do: Same dyno machine. similar air temperature, One stock exige S(IPS) and my exige S(IPS) with Imran's air intake system. The result is: Mine got 50HP more ON WHEEL than the stock one. That's exactly the same result from Imran's dyno run. So great job Imran, this air intake kit definitely will give your more throttle response, more vivid driving experience and for sure: more power babe!!!
    1 point
  44. New photo of Essex 18 s/n 10942 by current owner Mel Streek - from facebook. This of course had the big Stocks resto and was for sale in October 2017. Mel said he owned #13. (now black in Switzerland) when he was in his 20's. I asked him if I could add his name to the register and he was happy.
    1 point
  45. Part 13 Provisional assembly .. With all panels prepped , careful assembly is started, realigning and gaping as we go .. This is the time you are thankful you took the time to check and re check , fit and re-fit during each stage. At the time it seemed like so much fiddling a faffing , but experience has taught me this is when all that work pays off… The pic above is showing the side of front wing and how it aligns with the bonnet form . So you may think that is it.... But NO !! we need to do the bottom .. next job chassis off and start scraping the underside ..
    1 point
  46. At an Esso tie-in photoshoot with some Singapore classic car club members today. The lovely E-type is chassis #1 with the 4.2 litre engine. Nice contrasting colors.
    1 point
  47. I had this exact problem and was paranoid about number of clicks etc but read on another forum to just pull the plunger out all the way and when you fit it into its bracket press the brake pedal in (so it ain’t touching plunger) once it’s in the bracket release brake pedal and let the plunger set itself. I followed that method and it’s been fine for well over a year. I find lotus take the absolute pi$$ with stuff like this. Same as with price of spare parts. Its a shame tech centre isn’t available like vagcom is
    1 point
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