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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/03/21 in Posts

  1. Say "Hi" to the newest member of our little family, an 8-week-old Utonagan girl that we've named Charis after the Greek goddess of charm and beauty. Already tipping the scales at 8.2kg, she's a big girl and is going to end up a VERY big girl, I'm sure. Our existing Utonagan girl, Macha - now 3, is viewing her with suspicion and I think just wants her to shut up and go away as Charis is regularly demonstrating that she has a pair of lungs and a voice to match her rapidly growing stature. The neighbours must think that there is a mass-murder taking place, . WARNING: The following images may induce a cuteness overload.
    9 points
  2. This little lady became a family member, . A few more pics here for those interested : https://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/74382-if-you-love-your-dogs/?do=findComment&comment=924367
    4 points
  3. Ha. Usual EU bluster. You mean you farted about for months, dillying and dallying over whether to invest in a vaccine or not, let alone the R&D and production facilities. Then someone decided to place an order for a fraction of the vaccines you needed. In parallel, a small insignificant (according to EU) Island nation just got on with it. Invested in the R&D and the production facilities, and committed to 10 times what they needed to secure supply, whilst your leaders scare mongered re the vaccines potential efficacy and created an environment of suspicion. So glad we left you lot to it!
    4 points
  4. No need to share all of your wildest dreams with us. 😉
    4 points
  5. As of a couple of weeks ago I decided to stop working and retire. At 75 I thought it was about time. I have now started the long awaited mods to my Excel. I have now made an adapter plate that mates the Toyota W58 (Excel) gearbox to the lotus 918 V8engine. it will use the twin plate AP clutch with the friction plates made to take the Toyota spline. i will keep the topic updated as I go. Picture below
    2 points
  6. Some great photos of my car taken by @Malcolm Feth.
    2 points
  7. While I wait for the ECM situation to get sorted out I'm doing some of the little odd-jobs on the car. First up was to clean and straighten the rear wheel heat shield and replace the shock absorber heatshield which was crumbling away. New alongside what's left of the old shock top heat shield. The new one required a little trimming to get it to fit. All back in place after a little panel beating to straighten out the main heat shield. I also fitted the tinted indicator lenses that my wife kindly bought me for my birthday Then after nipping up a few weeping brake unions and re-bleeding the brakes I fit the front wheels with their nice grippy new rubber. My sparkly calipers show up quite nicely behind the Futuras Shame the state of the rims let it down 🤦‍♂️ Almost ready to land back on the deck again...
    2 points
  8. This update is for @JonSE as he will have to deal with this at some point. I only work part-time doing 3 days a week but I still don't seem to have the time to work on this car. Instead, I seem to have become an Electrician for both my kids rewiring bits of their houses and when I'm not doing that I'm decorating at my Son's. I plan on retiring fully in the summer but if I'm going to become a full-time handyman for my kids I might just stay at work hahaha Anyway, I have nicknamed this car 'the mongrel' as it had so many missing pieces and I think that suits it rather nicely! I haven't made a massive amount of progress but I have taken a mould off of the spare roof section I got with this car... It was a bit of a ropey panel as it had a few star cracks but fortunately they're towards the sides of the panel. The idea is to eventually turn the shell upside down and then clamp this panel to the roof and fill the sunroof in from the inside rather than cut a section out of the roof I got with it and graft that in... That way it will be easier to get the shape exactly right and I've made the external roof mould relatively thin so it has a bit of flex in it... I also borrowed a pair of moulds for the front lower quarters and I've made a pair of new panels from them... These were a right pig to get out but they gave in in the end... These are going to be needed to repair the front where some Philistine had hacked it to fit an S2 spoiler... So I will have to trim down the repair panels and then glass them in. Here I was just fitting them to the outside of the shell to see how much had been butchered and with the light from above it becomes obvious... By the time they're shaped, fitted and primed nobody will ever know - unless they read this thread of course... This will be a lot easier to deal with when the shell is inverted but before I do that I need to spend a million hours getting rid of all the old paint. This car has had a really thick layer of polyester (by the looks of it) and then colour over the top. You can see here on the top of the front wing just how thick the paint is... So that will be fun stripping that. POR used to do a paint stripper that wouldn't attack gelcoat but they were banned from selling it by the health & safety brigade
    2 points
  9. Well, anyone with a bloodstream that's more than 70 percent wine is immune...
    2 points
  10. I've always risked it without. You'll be fine. Oh, I see
    2 points
  11. Look what I found under the passengers mat while cleaning the car at the weekend 😀
    2 points
  12. HFL's New Race Car for 2021, Yes We're Racing a Lotus 😍 I am excited to announce that for the 2021 motorsport season we will be competing in the Lotus Elise Trophy Championship around the UK's best circuits and here is our new race car fresh from the Lotus Cars Production line, I may start a new thread but thought worth posting here first. I've owned Lotus's for over 30 years now, my first true car love was a Lotus Elan M100 back in 1989 and since then I have had the pleasure of owning quite a few Lotus Cars, so to finally get to race a Lotus is super exciting and especially so as Lotus recently announced that 2021 is the final year of Elise production after over 25 years so better late than never though I guess to finally drive one in anger on track. So thanks to the team at Lotus Silverstone for supplying the beautiful 250 Cup in Porsche Miami Blue, the car is now off to Hangar 111 to be converted into a race car which basically means pulling it all apart and replacing a ridiculous amount of parts. I will update regularly with how the season is progressing, just hope I don't make too much of a fool of myself, and hopefully soon motorsport fans will be allowed back to the track so feel free to come along to watch the shenanigans unfold. For More info please follow link - https://bit.ly/2Oyc8ve Some more exciting HFL Motorsport news coming very soon! Cheers, Paul.
    2 points
  13. Continuing from my earlier post about a carbon rear diffuser, and tow strap. I bought the one from Matt, and got it fitted last week. Think it looks great!
    2 points
  14. A little update: We collected Suzanna on Friday evening and had a nice chap with the owner. Turns out he owns/runs a company that does race support, mostly tires for the lower formula classes. In 1982 he shared the track with no other than Ayrton Senna, in Formula Ford! Plenty of memorabilia, including several signed helmets form Senna. Anyway, about the Jaaag: she looks as nice as in the picture and even the short drive onto the trailer gave me a big grin. 🙂 Yes, I confess, I went for the safe/responsible option of taking the trailer out instead of just driving her home. It just didn't seem like a good idea with a car I hadn't even seen. Last time I tried that (a barn find Range Rover off of Ebay) we barely made it 10 miles before she overheated because of a failed water pump... Not sure if this means I'm getting sensible or just old! We did put her into use that same night to go and get takeaway down the road. Everything seemed to work, but worryingly the oil pressure warning light stayed on and worse still the gauge was at 0... Engine sounds fine though, no tappet noises and very smooth, so must be just an electrical problem, right? 😬 On Saturday I found the time to put her up on the lift, but not before letting another mate take her round the block, rewarded with another big grin and some curse words cause he'll always fancied a V12 and the drive only fueled his desire (of course). The underside seems in good shape, a little bit of wear and clear signs of decent repairs/treatment. Here she is sharing her new home with Emma the Esprit: Yesterday I continued the inspection, did an oil and filter change (the one on it was a HD tractor one, though the specs were a reasonable match) and hooked up a mechanical oil pressure gauge. 5 bar at idle, crisis averted! 🙂 When putting the switch back I also found the wiring for the switch and sender was the wrong way round, which explains why the gauge didn't move and the light stayed on. Still glad I got a mechanical confirmation! So time for a proper drive, leave the Esprit at the Workshop and take the Jaaag home. I'm impressed with the smooth ride, combined with tight steering. I could feel no play in the suspension when poking around and the road going manners confirm this. Effortless progress as expected and even the old autobox doesn't bother me, smooth shifts and surprisingly instant kickdown when overtaking. Excellent I thought, just as disaster struck: the engine starting hesitating and died on me as I pulled over and put it in N. A deep sigh, fingers crossed, restarted, seemed fine, so on my merry way. Only to come to a halt a few 100m further. Aah, lack of of fuel, despite the gauge at 1/4 and no warning light. Luckily there was a petrol station nearby, so an easy fix after all. I did notice a coolant leak while she was sitting. A weep on the pipe to the expansion tank, so nothing bad and should be another easy fix. We made it home OK, still very happy with my buy. Apart from the coolant weep and a tendency to pull to the right all that needs attention is elektrickery. I'm no stranger to the works Lucas, Prince of Darkness so not too worried. It's mostly the dash, none of the gauges seem to work as they should and I have proven I can't trust the warning lights either. I should really find a good forum for some tips and tricks, and a workshop manual (and user manual, I can't figure out how the heater is supposed to work). Any recommendations? Preferably non-Us based, because of all the differences to wiring due to emission regulations etc. Greetz, Filip
    2 points
  15. Another item to check it the position of the temp probe against the condenser in the climate box. Check to see if there have been any TSB's about this on early Evoras. I understand that if the condenser core ices up then the compressor doesn't cycle on/off and this would lead to compressor overheat.
    2 points
  16. I've had auto cars, flappy paddle autos and single clutch 'automatics'. My personal view, even a fairly slow modernish single clutch box is fine once you learn to go with it. I haven't driven an IPS but I'm fairly certain it'll be around as quick or quicker than the old ZF 6 speed that I used to have in the Jag and that was perfectly fine. I bought a manual because I missed driving a manual (more to do!) On the other hand, automatics are really nice for just blasting along a road or track. You don't need to worry about timing the gears as much just smash those paddles up and down as you need to and concentrate on getting the flow of the corners right. I currently have both manual and flappy paddle loaded cars, I enjoy both. There's lots of snootiness in the car world, just drive what feels good to you at the time.
    2 points
  17. That looks brilliant . I do love the tartan seats . As you say it is all a compromise one way or the other . My seats don’t need a full rebuild and the dash will be like new . Steve quoted £15k for the retrim . I couldn’t see the value in that versus what I believe I will get for substantially less , abide I will do lots of hours myself . The key for me in the work I’m doing is to get the seat inserts remade . It is a special part of the JPS.
    2 points
  18. Another IPS owner here. You'll find NA owners saying theirs is best and S owners doing the same. No different with gearboxes. For every review saying IPS is slow there's another saying the manual shift is rubbish. In reality they are all very good, just different. As Goatboy says, most IPS 'wisdom' comes from reviews of the first cars before software was sorted. For me I was pleasantly surprised by how well the IPS worked. What it loses in involvement it gains in ease and driveability and the theatre of those blips on the downshift. It also avoids the eventual 3k clutch replacement and for the S IPS is 200-ish a year cheaper road tax to boot. Agree on comments about the white one - it looks perfectly fine but is caught between cheaper earlier cars and the later MY12 and IMO more desirable Sport Racers.
    2 points
  19. I agree. Mine is an IPS by the way. And it blips itself so I don't have to! God it sounds epic when it does it too.
    2 points
  20. Just to help out 1. Never overcharge a system as overcharging is easey done if not weighing the refrigerant in and going by pressures and temperatures as this has many variables .Ambient temperature ,engine speed ,internal fan speed, ,evaporator/condenser cleanliness. Always weigh the charge in and being slightly overcharged is worse than slightly undercharged as overcharging can cause liquid refrigerant to return to the compressor and we all know you cannot compress a liquid. 2 .Always try and engage the compressor at engine tick over otherwise your stressing the magnetic clutch and compressor if you put the A/C on at higher revs so dip the clutch and put the A/C on if necessary. As nothing likes going from 0--4000rpm in 1 second 3. The only cooling the compressor has is the cool refrigerant vapour returning from the evaporator so running severely undercharged if the low pressure switch isn't working will kill a compressor quickly and to compound the problem the compressor has no sump and the oil in the system is miscible with the refrigerant and lubricates the internals as a mist returning with the suction vapour and low suction vapour as in short of refrigerant means the oil doesn't return as well. 4.Always run the A/C at least every month as the glandseal that seals the refrigerant from escaping via the input shaft only seals when wet with oil and whilst stationary the oil drains away and the seal will weep.this happens on large tonnage compressors as well so much so manufacturers now fit what's called a stationery gland seal support that keeps the oil around the gland and stops it draining internally back inside the compressor bit I'm going off topic. If it's cold out most car A/C's won't run due to lack of warm air or heat load to stop liquid returning to the compressor this is usually below 6'C .So run the car to temperature and place on recirculation and warm up the cabin the leave on recirc fan on full A/C on and use the heat in the cabin to give the A/C something to cool and your be ok only needs to run for a few mins. Hope this helps
    2 points
  21. I’ve posted these elsewhere, but for us classic lotus owners, decided to post here too. Had my engine to JS Motorsport for some work I wanted doing, prior to me taking the car on a Swiss Alps tour next year. There wasn’t really anything wrong with the engine apart from a slightly noise cam follower, but I decided while it was being opened up to do everything. Head although ported previously, was finished off by JS. Fitted Forged rods and pistons, all bolts are now ARP, valves and guides also done, along basically with everything else. Used JS “special” cam followers too. Full engine balance, flywheel skim etc etc. Engine then run in on the dyno and a power run performed. Have to say I have been exceptionally impressed by JS, very very knowledgable and more than that, very good to chew the fat with, spot on in fact 👍 So here are some pictures along with two dyno runs, taken 10 years apart. I am exceptionally pleased. One thing I did do after speaking with JS about this was to fit an updated oil pump, primarily due to my tour next years and lots off continuous motorway driving, plus all the ups and downs of the mountain passes. I hope you enjoy...
    1 point
  22. That’s a fantastic car and price ! A bit too quick and powerful for me but there must be a queue of buyers forming ?
    1 point
  23. That's just lovely! ❤️ Never heard of the bread, did some research and now I want one. 🙂
    1 point
  24. I believe a TLF campaign helped to have it removed, it was universally unloved!
    1 point
  25. Sounds like some of it has leaked out in this case.
    1 point
  26. My 911 fanboy car chum bought his first Lotus on Saturday.......a carbon grey 2013 Elise S. His resistance has been worn down by years of Lotus rides and Lotus talk. It will be his only car in London...........but he has use of my Twingo 133 to assist when needed. Justin
    1 point
  27. I think if that's what is on sale at that price someone who wants one will buy it. You can't buy what isn't on sale and if you want an Evora, what else are you going to do? I wouldn't turn down the Silverstone cars in that price area. You also know it came from a decent dealer so have peace of mind.
    1 point
  28. I know you know it wasn't personal at all. 😉 Just a great clip, no matter how many times I've seen it, it always cracks me up.
    1 point
  29. And still reporting covid-included deaths, with +'ve test in last 28 days. Why? I still don't fully understand how a positive test 28 days ago, with 10 day isolation period still means I died from covid? Where are the numbers indicating people that (unfortunately) died FROM covid and only covid? Yes @Bibs, and now the same outlets are wringing their hands about poor mental health, poverty, social inequality blah blah - where everything seems to be someone else's problem - no one seems to be able to be self supportive/self motivated and just to crack on. Why are we waiting for the government to pay us to get excercise? What happened to personal responsibility ?
    1 point
  30. It’s so detailed, I wonder if it’s not a dream, rather a recollection.
    1 point
  31. After putting the heater box back together I decided I couldn’t put off fixing the wiring any longer. I have since discovered that I didn’t take many pictures of the work, and of those I did take one picture of some wiring looks very much like another. The first think I did was to assess just how much of the loom was damaged. It looked like one or two of the wires were completely burnt through, and several others had got hot enough to melt the insulation and leave it thin or damaged. Someone had obviously been behind the dashboard to ‘fix’ the damage as there were a number of bodges to get things working again – primarily around the fog light switch which took its power jumped from the headlight switch. This is a 1984 car, and from the factory didn’t even have front fog lights, so these must have been fitted by a previous owner. I wasn’t sure if the current ‘fix’ was the cause of the damage, or put in place to make things work again. I decided to restore the loom back to its factory spec, and would work out a better solution for running front fog lights later. I took a note of the color of all the damaged wires and ordered up a meter or 2 of all the cables I though I would need from Auto Electrical Supplies who I have used in the past. This included a load of pre-insulated, glued but connectors that I would use to splice in new cables in place of damaged sections of the old cables. I then set to work, sitting in the car cutting out one cable at a time and splicing in a new section. This was around December/January time and putting a fan heater to blow into the car, and occasional use of the hot air gun on the heat shrink connectors made working in the car quite warm. I was testing each cable for continuity from end to end as I went, so I was fairly confident everything would work afterwards (which it did), but I could only test it once I had finished and re-connected the battery and all switches. I found some very odd ‘fixes’, including the choke switch taking power from the radio supply and being grounded to the (fibreglass) dashboard, the radio taking power from the cigarette lighter, the radiator fans not being connected to the loom at all, and most of the fuses being of the wrong rating. I have left the engine bay wiring (including to fog lights) alone for now, but will move on to that after ive finished with the dashboard. In preparation for that I have run a new (fused) power cable alongside the loom to the engine bay connector and will use this to power the fog lights, I will probably take a signal from the main beam cable through a relay to turn them on when putting on full beams. Once I had everything connected back up again I wrapped the loom in new loom tape and reattached it to the scuttle. To be honest it looks pretty similar to before I started work, but at least there is smoke back in the wires now.
    1 point
  32. Mine has a 1 inch ID one, or the metric equivalent.
    1 point
  33. Some b&w snaps from a tour round the factory at an open day - my records think the was 1977. I used both b&w film and some colour neg - but the colours ones were not great indoors.
    1 point
  34. Oh sorry need to read more carefully! I understand the cost issue and need to control the spend. I spent a lot of time with Steve whilst my car was trimmed. We are talking an as new factory correct trim. This takes months of work. The seats were stripped back to a bare metal frame. This was welded and repaired, as in a lot of cases the cross bar has detached. This was sprayed. The Pirelli webbing was cut from new rubber and secured with new clips. The seat foam was repaired or remade as appropriate and reshaped where it has sagged over the years. This is a lot of work before you even start to trim. There are a lot of trimmers who will just make new seat covers and thats it. The problem is the finish will be poor and the seat won’t look good after sitting on it for a few months. I understand why a quote may seem a good deal but you have to ask yourself what will they do for the money? Its not possible to match the quality without experience and cutting patterns for each Lotus model. The tell tale sign on the S1 is the dash stitching. The twin needle stitch line around the dash is always perfect on Steves trim. Others I have seen have an interesting take in it! The same thoroughness is applied to the fibreglass panels. Before any trimming they are stripped down, all glue removed, repaired with new glass and then trimmed. Its very difficult to compare quality in pictures. Far better to look at a car Steve has done and compare it with another. He has an S1 there at the moment. You could always ask to have a look. When the covid is over. You may be able to rescue the original trim. It may look like its not repairable but Steve has some amazing repair techniques. Worth asking before you trash the existing trim. The JPS is a stunning car. Whatever way you go I am sure it will look amazing. Heres some seat pics. They don’t do justice to the time it takes to create a Lotus seat. I have skipped a lot of stages as Incan’t post them all. Most trims look ok in pictures or at a distance. The real test is when you see it for yourself.
    1 point
  35. Well I've worked out what the cause of my poor running is, my replacement ECU doesn't work 😞😠 I spent most of a day testing all the wiring to find no faults in that, all the voltages and earths were sound, but I just couldn't get the ECU to talk to Freescan or Espritmon. I finally decided to try the paper clip trick between pins A&B on the ALDL connector to check that it wasn't my diagnostic cable at fault and even that didn't result in the expected CEL light code flashing. I then swapped the ECU out for my original one, which has a faulty QDM on it and low and behold the ALDL connection works and the car runs so much smoother, albeit without the ability to run the fans (the reason why I replaced it over a year ago in the first place). Instead of buying another ECM module from the states as I did last time I think I'll send my original one off to see if it can be repaired. Seeing as I can't do much else on the engine side of things until the ECU is sorted I decided to tie up a few loose ends on the front of the car. I fitted some rubber edging strip around the radiator tray and air duct to protect the chargecooler hoses from chafing. My new horns have been installed. Then I had a right battle trying to get the corner undertrays and the lower bib spoilers to fit. None of the holes seem to want to line up without a fight. Are they prone to suffering shrinkage with age? This was the best I could manage after half a day of fighting it. The two pieces don't meet very nicely in the middle either, but again becase the bumper is trashed it's not really worth me wasting much more time on it if I'm going to replace the bumper anyway. The car is slowly beginning to regain its identity
    1 point
  36. @hml_xyGreat to see you are still having lots of fun in that lovely & rare car of yours Heiner! Being tailgated & provoked to race by modified & heavily tuned hot hatchbacks is inevitable and can be very distracting at times. 😬 The Cupra shares the same 2 litre EA888 engine & AWD drivetrain as the Golf R. A Stage 3 tune provides 500hp, but there's always a danger that the engine will blow if revved out for prolonged periods. Perhaps you should have kept the serious speed up for a while & waited to see his engine blow. 😎
    1 point
  37. MP - 2010 Basic Salary - £65738 MP - 2018 Basic Salary - £77379 MP’s - 17.7% increase NHS - 3.46% increase (same period) Speaks volumes. 🤔
    1 point
  38. Wow no more Evora's to be built already. Such a shame for the best road car they ever made.
    1 point
  39. Would want to jump to a GT if I were to change, I don't like the 400 look that much. I'm not keen on the suspension being much harder than the S1 though. What good does it do on the road? If I want a track car, I'll buy an Exige!
    1 point
  40. I've never liked the multi-part 400 rear spoiler. The original S1 was far nicer in my humble opinion. The later carbon ducktail pure sex (but then we all like different things!) The front of the 400 I was not a fan of when it first came out. However, I think it looks good now and has grown on me but it always looks better in the flesh than in pictures. Having had an S1 the interior was superb, it really was a special place to be. However, having had a 4xx for 3 years I can confirm the build quality did move on with the 4xx interior despite what some S1 owners would have you believe and access in and out much, much better. The S1 interior was more bespoke, the 4xx more mainstream in terms of materials and fit/finish. As you know, I have a huge fondness and a hard spot (it would never be soft!) for the S1 so no "dissing" going on here, but nostalgia is no defence to progress and in quality of fit and finish the 4xx did move things forwards. I'd still like an S1 NA in my garage though but it would need the venom red interior - maybe a white with red interior one! However, I doubt it actually exists outside of the brochures, but a white one with the dark blue Premium Leather interior would really float my boat!
    1 point
  41. Not seen them on an elite, of my elites/eclats the favourite ones I had were this style.
    1 point
  42. This éclat was at the Earls Court launch in 1975, on this trailer in the car park. I think the wall needs repainting. This was after I was at the Hyde Park parade. The wheels do not look like the ones that ended up in production. I took a number of pics of this one as.
    1 point
  43. Have found a few colour ones from outside the factory.
    1 point
  44. As long as it doesn't come with the gopping 400 tailgate or front clam ☺️
    1 point
  45. Well when you have no choice, you're pretty much stuck with them. LOL Of course there is a good side to them. They make a great place to set your beer when you're working on them! Actually I have 3 the other is quite roadworthy! '77 503 in Lagoon Blue
    1 point
  46. Fitting the liners , People have different ways of fitting liners, but this is the method I have used for years without issue . Once all the liners have the nip heights set / adjusted to required spec and are in correct orientation dry, mark them up so they can be removed and placed back in exactly the same position when sealant applied.. I do this by simply applying masking tape up the center line of the decks.. see Pics's Next jobs is to remove all liners and prep all parts ready for next stage, this is done so you are not looking for any part in the middle of a procedure ... Wipe all mating surfaces on liners and block with a spirit wipe to remove any oils etc. Prior to fitting liners it is time to refit all the block/head studs and locating dowels .. important to note these are torqued in with oiled threads , i also apply a small amount of blue thread lock. When all fitted prep area where liner # 1 is installed by first wiping with tack cloth , then smear the surface with your chosen sealant. Then prep the # 1 liner with tack cloth and apply sealant to the contact area. Carefully slide the liner into place . When fully down give slight twisting action side to side to ensure fully bedded . You will find this will be quite stiff to do compared to when dry.. Whilst doing this ,using a long straight edge align the datum marks on the decks to ensure fully straight in position .. Failure to do this now may cause alignment issues with the flats on the liners not being square to each other or even touching on the points. By the time you have prepped and fitted liner # 2 it will be awkward to re orientate # 1 , as the sealant will have already grabbed .. Repeat the same procedure on all 4 liners . You should get a nice bead of sealant at the base and all around the liner if fitted correct. Next job is to remove the masking tape markers and fit an old compressed but very clean head gasket, followed by the cylinder head. Torque the head down to 40 ft lbs in the recognised sequence, ( remembering to oil the threads) . This will compress the liners into their final position. Leave like this for circa 12 to 24 hours .. Before leave to fully cure, invert the engine . You will see another bead of sealant on the base of the liner. Remove this with a cloth and spirit wipe . Because the sealants used here are mostly anaerobic they will not fully cure in that environment. To prevent the sealant polluting the oil it is removed from that area, it is not an issue in the water jacket where it will dissolve and disperse . This conclude the fitting of the liners. Next job will be to match the pistons to the bores and gap the rings ..
    1 point


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