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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/04/21 in all areas

  1. Just chucking some more pics into the thread. Finally got the harnesses done a few weeks ago. Made such a difference on track. Also, managed to survive the Bedford noise lottery last weekend. Jim’s 2Bular QP system did its job pretty well.
    5 points
  2. After posting in the 'Introductions' section, I thought I'd keep a diary of my car and any upgrades I do in this section. It's a 2019 Exige 410 Sport. Cyan Blue, with the interior colour coded pieces in yellow. It's got the Carbon Fibre seats, Carbon Roof and Lithium Battery. Collection day was long but exciting. When I arrived here, I'd never even seen a 410 sport in real life before, never mind seen or driven the car I'd actually just bought... The sales woman went to grab the car from where it was tucked away, and when she brought it round for me, even my mask was barely able to hide my smile... 0 I then had a fairly long and steady drive home, taking my time to get to know the car. Didn't want anything silly to happen straight after picking it up. Finally a few more pictures from when I got it home: I'm still waiting for my sensible 'daily driver' to be delivered, so the Exige had to be taken to work yesterday. Wasn't ideal when I stepped out of the front door to find ice/sleet on the car. As it turns out, the Cup 2 tyres seemed to grip surprisingly well in the cold conditions. Glad we didn't have any laying snow though...
    4 points
  3. Think this rings true. It's the reason I wanted an NA. I had a car that was punch you in the back fast in a straight line. That could be fun (especially watching cars retreating in the rear-view mirror) but it was often a practice of constant restraint and there wasn't much time between corners to enjoy the shove. It was also quite a lazy experience as you could just leave it in gear and dial in whatever speed you wanted. I wanted something that would build through the rev range and give you time to enjoy the accelerative experience as well as the corners. It's not THAT fast in a straight line but it's certainly not slow and it accelerates in a fun building wave which feels more frenetic due to it's rev happy nature. On the road it's not about straight line speed it's about the experience and fun it grants you along the way.
    3 points
  4. British Weather 👍😊
    3 points
  5. Just thought I would give everyone with severe stone chip issues on the winglets of their beloved cars a heads up. I've made a template and I'm getting it cut out by Nick at Aliath who creates hundreds of these specialist PPF kits for just about any car. I've used his kits for a for years now on many of my cars and had no issues as its of a high quality material . After a discussion with him we decided to make a template off my car and he will be adding them to his already large list of kits. Easy to put on and good protection. He's probably gonna do it in a matt black wrap or a matt finish regular kit. I've attached photos of the issue and the template I made so he can get a perfect cut. If anyone is interested ill let you know as soon as he's made them. All the best
    2 points
  6. Mine arrived today from Aliath. I will post up some pictures before I fit them, although I will wait until the warmer weather before if fit them.
    2 points
  7. In terms of Autotrader monitoring (part of my job) Hollybrook Sports cars also have one at a similar price of around £44-45000. However there are still only 2 Early NA's one Man and one IPS. TBH if I was the owner of the manual I would be upping my price a couple of thousand then letting them knock me a little. I think £28k is quite low compared to everything else out there. The IPS is only 1 year newer but a whopping £5000 more and then you are into the £36k and above for sport racers! Its a lesson really in my trade, always monitor trends and adjust your pricing accordingly!
    2 points
  8. I own the Excel above from the 1983 motorfair, currently running on 14” speed lines (I have the Toyota wheels) otherwise all original. Keith - When I spoke to Andy G he sent me the pictures above! Here is the car now, I wasn’t a fan of the red interior when I purchased it, luckily has grown on me since then!
    2 points
  9. Photos of the Lotus stand/cars at the Earls Court motorfair 1983. The front pic of the excel has one of the London Lotus centre directors/owners.
    2 points
  10. Oakmere are a decent enough bunch so can’t imagine it would need too much that they wouldn’t fix
    1 point
  11. I have a spare lumenition module if you end up needing one Fabian 👍🏻 Dave
    1 point
  12. Assuming rear Best with the driveshaft removed - then just drift it out from behind with a hammer and wooden block.
    1 point
  13. That sounds encouraging Chaps. The Landlord at the Wonston Arms has done a lot of work on his garden, and Pete will like the beer there, so that might be a good place to start?? What do you think??
    1 point
  14. Bloody useless the lot of them, it’s why we have the whole cladding issue. Dig the footing, get them in to inspect, if they won’t sign it off tell them to tell you what is wrong with it, as in why they have failed it.
    1 point
  15. if your fuel level was low in one of your carbs, I suspect you will be getting closer to solving your problem. Fingers crossed!
    1 point
  16. Careful !! There is NO correlation between choke size and startup. You may have assembled bits in some sort of disarray so check over what you've done. The change from 36 to 35 mm will be of no great consequence other than marginally earlier mains online but doesn't hurt to try and is without peril. FWIW, Keith Frank ( chap referred to earlier in regard to tech analysis of carbs ) has determined Dellortos to be handicapped in terms of emulsion tube and slow run designs quite comparably to the Webers. Your transition behaviour issues will likely derive from these aspects, perhaps aggravated by modern fuel characteristics. With the DCOEs it's been pointed out that one may run with main clusters removed altogether, for the sake of evaluating the slow run operation more clearly. Suspect it's the same with the Dellortos. This must be done with care to avoid any chance of needing deep throttle, as with traffic merging and avoidance events, but will permit low load cruise at a fair turn of speed. Checking in this way will offer some insight into the function of slow run jets, progression holes, and also the balance. Complex matter, this parsing of fuel delivery. In what sense were you advised to expect change of carburetion due to the small shift in CR?
    1 point
  17. Ideal opportunity to wear my ski trousers!
    1 point
  18. If the beer's good, I'm happy to don thermals! Pete
    1 point
  19. 1 point
  20. £295.00 sounds an absolute bargain for useless advice. We had a Structural Engineer come in and provide his boundless expertise on raising some lintels into the loft space. We also specified steel beams to be used. He came back with a solution that used timber and would have the beams poking out of the roof - that was a good £600.00 well spent. Suffice to say we upgraded his solution and went with Steel - so far the house is still standing and nothing is poking out of the roof.
    1 point
  21. I Had an M3 give it large coming off Thickthorne roundabout her in Norwich last year. Whilst the Evora dug in and gripped I could see him sawing at the wheel and he must have lifted. By the time he got on it he couldn't catch me till I lifted....at the legal speed limit.... I just kept it planted. I think on the roads, its all about the driver and of course the presence. There's only one thing that disappoints living 3 miles from the factory, everyone has seen so many they don't even notice you.
    1 point
  22. Very enjoyable watch, highs and lows but looked like a great adventure
    1 point
  23. So bank holiday weekend didn't go exactly to plan, it was meant to be 4 days full of car stuff and some nice food. Reality was I was stuck working so it was back to midnight sessions again, really need to sort the new career thing… Time to get rid of this crappy wheel whilst the rest of the interior goes back in: Usual power down so it doesn’t blow up in my face, and airbag was taken out, just thought I would show it as people seem to not post much on removing the airbag Remove this green tab to release the connector 4 bolts to be removed And wheel off Then simply swap the old wheel, for the new wheel and spacer with longer bolts, installation is a bit tighter as the cable is about its limit, you could maybe run a 40mm spacer if you wanted to push it, but cables will be at their max on installation New wheel, spacer and steering shroud done:
    1 point
  24. The other problem is inconsitency of fuel these days, and the increasing ethanol amount. EFI cars with feedback can adjust to compensate but carbs cannot. I dont think carbs can ever be absolutely perfect and stay that way.
    1 point
  25. I’m confused here. The pistons are the same size ? Or has the piston swap effectively increased the cc of the engine ?
    1 point
  26. Driving hard but not stupid on public roads and the difference I bet between an NA and a GT430 will be down to the driver, not car. A straight drag race, no chance for the NA. On track, no chance for the NA. That's why no difference between your car and 140i. However I bet you in the NA were more composed than the 140i driver. Just my opinion
    1 point
  27. Fabian, there is indeed a great deal to this and we may well be running fuel which has evolved into something less than ideal for use with the original kit. Yup, the smaller venturi must activate the mains sooner, as will raising the fuel height. If you're going into this intrepidly you must be ever so rigorous with methods, otherwise less likely to succeed. Starting points include the float height and fuel pressure regulation, assuming all kit in fine fettle. Resist temptation to stray far from established fuel height settings. There's a wealth of insights available on the Sidedraft Forum. Cheers
    1 point
  28. if you take the trim pice off you can check if the wiring is there for the switch, either that or pull te seats out. Gav
    1 point
  29. Spotted this just now in Superman II!
    1 point
  30. He's already accepted my offer as non-Exec Director of Thread Drifting with a min post count target close to 150 per day.
    1 point
  31. As an addendum to my contribution on this thread, there was one aspect of working that I sorely missed and something I think needs to be thought about. What I missed most at first was male company and office banter. I always enjoyed visiting and speaking to our customers and was fortunate that my business partner has a very similar life outlook to me. One of the first things I did after retiring was to buy a classic Mercedes SL and carry out a light restoration. Trouble was I was mostly doing it on my own. My wife didn’t want to help either!😉 After a couple of months, I volunteered to become a steward at Brooklands Motor Museum just one day a week. That has been brilliant as I was surrounded by a bunch of similarly aged guys, most with similar outlook on life to me and a load of old cars to play with. It’s even provided another branch to our social lives since we regularly see each other with wives outside of the museum. Importantly though, it filled the male banter gap in my life, so it is just one more thing to consider when thinking about retiring.
    1 point
  32. just be careful you don't end up doing 5 days worth of work in 4 or 3 days a week ..
    1 point
  33. It is a personal thing, I’ve owned both and wouldn’t go back to an NA. But I also wouldn’t have a 4xx either (styling). The GTxxx range saved the day for the Evora... great to have 3 variants for all tastes and all with the Evora magic!
    1 point
  34. To be honest after 11 years I'm bored of repeating myself, so can't imagine what others think 😄 Maybe I should just copy and paste old posts 😂 The Mansory gear knob was never introduced, it wasn't legislated or tested. The aluminium one was introduced on the Sport Racer not MY12, then standardised later on. The headlamps have always been Bi-Xenon (from 2009 to 2021) so don't know where that misinformation came from (cheekily they were a cost option). They changed from being gloss black to satin black mid 2010 for quality reasons and they lost the "Lotus" script when the car was introduced to China. But exactly the same lamps. What I'm most interested in though is how @jep is getting on with the 400 flywheel and clutch. Great choice? No issues? Personally I'd value an N/A higher than the S equivalent. And being an SR variant, that's a bit of a unicorn Evora.
    1 point
  35. Fantastic to be back out with MLOC for a run in the Peak District this morning.
    1 point
  36. Awesome, and on an S2, too (which took some fettling of the pods)
    1 point
  37. Hi! Thanks from the future for the replies) You helped me I also bought (just in case) Sealey (found it here https://www.bestadvisers.co.uk/jump-starters ) jump starter to avoid such problems
    1 point
  38. 1 point
  39. I could not solder capacitor legs directly onto spade terminals - wrong materials, so I hatched a plan Created a newly cimped "extension' cable with extra run-through of copper cable, which allowed me to solder the capacitor in-circuit, but near the locating pins on the lamp socket. Not terribly elegant in the grand scheme of things - but it works and interference is massively reduced to an almost inaudible level. I'll also add in RF chokes for good measure (now that I have them), and move any remaining RF noise. Then just onto repeating the process with any remaining offensive LED lamps. Huge thanks to all who offered advice etc. - much appreciated, and I've learned a lot more about electronics, my car, and creating solutions to problems, and my soldering technique is improving - despite the evidence here. Happy days
    1 point
  40. Time will tell how reliable the velcro is @drdoom. It is stiched on so glue failure shouldn't be a problem. Anyway, after nearly two years and two months off the road the Esprit has finally broken cover. Still plenty to do before its ready for an MOT, but its a big milestone having it in a drivable condition again While idling on the driveway it kept stalling and it took me a while to realise it was due to be a lack of fuel. The weird thing was the low fuel warning light wasn't on and I know that works because it was illuminated before I put fuel back into it for the first time a couple of weeks ago. Obviously not that reliable at indicating low fuel I guess 😕
    1 point
  41. Some great photos of my car taken by @Malcolm Feth.
    1 point
  42. IT RUNS!!!! Chucked five litres of fuel in it and initially it wouldn't start. Was a bit slow off the mark to realise the fuel inertia switch needed resetting. Once it did start I quickly got up to about 4.5bar on the oil pressure gauge at idle, so I think that's sound. Next problem to solve is that after about a minute of running the idle got really lumpy and then it stalled on me 🤔
    1 point
  43. I Took my new neighbor to my local cars and coffee this morning, yes its Thursday and yes we are all retired. This guy own 14 different cars including a Ferrari 458( Dancing donkey) etc. After the initial shock of quick it was and the sound he says, and that's a Camry engine? nothing was said then on the way home he says, I cannot believe the ride in this thing...unbelievable have you got it set on soft?.
    1 point
  44. Here we go, they are not to everyones taste but were a big improvement for me and an easy swap too. Happy Bunny .......and also much easier for the car to pass the MOT as the old lamp fittings were fairly rusty and difficult to set up.
    1 point
  45. for future readers, purchase new hub nuts and new hub to carrier bolts along with the bearings an impact wrench works fine to loosen the hub nuts I had to use an plain allen wrench (actually 2) and a box end wrench to loosen the hub to carrier bolts. some rounded anyway, actually the allen wrench rounded my hub to carrier bolts had to be removed and installed with hub pulled out a little as the cap heads don't exactly line up through the access hole a rubber mallet faciliated removal of the bearing/hub unit once the bolts were loosened I added grease to the bearings before installing and cleaned the hub mating surface and added a little grease to faciliate removal next time I cut (another) allen wrench to a length to fit thru the access hole and changed out a 3/8" drive allen wrench to use a torque wrench to reinstall them remove the wheel center cap and resinstall the wheels to torque hub nut (car in gear, wheel choks and friend on the brakes if needed) compared to the new bearings, the left bearing was not healthy either
    1 point
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