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  1. 14 points
    Miles. Bar the first 8k, all mine. 7 years.
  2. 9 points
  3. 7 points
    More crazy cars from today in Monterey.
  4. 7 points
  5. 6 points
    004 was suppose to be at the Silverstone Classic the other Sunday but decided to stay at home with the weather forecast not looking good, been sat in the garage ever since waiting for somewhere to go so this morning put in an appearance at a local classic event at Ilkeston Town Centre Market Place - 20 mins away.
  6. 5 points
    Not quite today but I hit the half century last month - Thanks to my sister.......................
  7. 5 points
    Ah yes, perfection.
  8. 5 points
    A couple of pics from a dawn run last weekend to liven up an old thread. Not been driving much this year as I have a project on at home. Hopefully I can get a trip to Spa before the year is out.
  9. 5 points
    I don’t like it. And as for “Simplifying and taking the weight out of the lettering”, what a load of cobblers, do they really think we’re that stupid? Why not take out Colin Chapman’s initials altogether in that case?
  10. 5 points
    I have my baby back and have brought her on a little trip to Bucks to work for a couple of days. Barge boards and sills resprayed Gloss Black, Front Splitter painted Gloss and red stripe put all way round painted rather than stickers. All the grills resprayed gloss black, full front end respray after laquer started lifting and totally recon'ed alloys and powder coated.
  11. 5 points
    Courtesy of classicrevivalphot
  12. 4 points
    Greetings Lotus bros, I've been racking my brain for months trying to find a way to charge the battery without opening the trunk lid. Finally after months of research and planning, this is what I've come up with. Hope it helps anyone else who finds charging through the trunk lid annoying. First, the materials needed. 1. A drill bit that can cut a hole 3/4"-7/8" 2. An SAE extension cord. You only need around 3ft. 3. This flush mount SAE connector: Next, cut a 5/8" hole near the interior trunk latch. There's a crease there which I lined the hole up with. I've included a reference photo to show approx where this hole is being made. Don't worry, any cuts you make in this project are only through fiberglass and plastic. There are no wires nearby to interfere with, and no metal cutting. From the outside, measure where you'd like to place the connector and make a 3/4"-7/8" hole. Remove the license plate light to assist you in visualization and routing the cable. From here it's pretty self explanatory. Route the cable through into the boot of the trunk and connect it to your SAE battery terminal connector. I used some waterproof silicone to keep things water tight (although prob unnecessary as it was all very tight) and a 5/8" rubber grommet for the trunk interior. Tidy things up and enjoy charging the battery without having to open the trunk. From normal standing height, you can barely notice it's there. **Note**: I couldn't get one of the mounting screws on the exterior connector in. There may be metal under that one, but the other 3 were def only in fiberglass/plastic.
  13. 4 points
  14. 3 points
    On the advice of other members. I'm starting a Evora GT thread. Feel free to post your Pictures, Mods and questions. Here is the my Evora GT. Luckily, it was the first one sold in the America. Lotus officially says "First in the World"!
  15. 3 points
  16. 3 points
    And there was me thinking we agreed about everything. I didn't realise you were a softy Liberal after all!
  17. 3 points
    Can not disagree with what you saying, just trying to point out that it’s good to see Lotus trying to reach out to a bigger audience, will she help sales with this car who knows , but like I said if this video helps sales with the next generation of cars it’s win win for Lotus. All top performance brands use these people to promote there products in this day and age, so no harm done by Lotus jumping on board I am sure
  18. 3 points
    Hi Neil, yep Ive been looking at that. I have refurbed the old caliper just need the tiny ratchet bit and it will work. I should be able to get one somewhere I hope. As I last resort I'll switch them both. Drive shafts I rebuilt both if them some time ago. I greased them and put them away for storage. When I went to fit the second one it had frozen on both ends, I ended up taking it apart again. I have put it back together and installed it. What a faf! So what's left? the rear brake calliper and fluid. The top fuel lines, engine surround filter and plenum. The Turbo, boost pipe and Exhaust. Ignition coil and ignition harness. Tailgate Mot plate change Ski racks. Must keep going!
  19. 3 points
    Hi Guys and Gals, I'm now on my 3rd Esprit but new to this forum. I had a lovely Silver S2 back in 97, unfortunately it caught fire in 1998. I then purchased a Red S1 but sold it due to moving to the States in late 99. I have now just bought 505H and its about to leave California. It's a 77 Monaco white S1 that's been stored for the last 27 years. The car looks pretty solid, no rust that I can see but it needs a fair amount of work. The Plan is to keep it LHD but get rid of the Federal bits and bobs plus delete the sunroof and get the interior back to factory look. I have restored quite a few cars and I'm lucky enough to have my own workshop with a 2 post lift. I guess it would be better to drop a UK 2.2 engine in the car and keep the existing matching numbers engine to one side. It looks like it would take a lot of money to bring the engine up to Euro spec. If anyone has a factory steering wheel, engine cover and airbox for sale please PM me. Right, off to read some S1 restoration blogs.
  20. 3 points
    In the booth with Upol reface. 6 hours of continuous laying up. I mixed and a mate shot. Ran the booth at 27 degrees so it was hot work. Could not recommend this product more highly enough. Went on smoothly, super strong, and only a handful of pinholes.
  21. 3 points
  22. 3 points
  23. 2 points
    It ummm doesn’t need that - I loved that car......
  24. 2 points
    It doesn't negate the test completely, but does mean that the problem is up-stream of the HT part of the dissy. So, could be any of: Pick-up in dissy LT lead between dissy and AB14 AB14 unit (amplifier) Coil Wiring between coil and AB14 Rev Limiter King HT lead Look for the rev limiter and disconnect it ten repeat the test of looking for a spark at the king lead. . It's a black plastic device, wit the word "Lucas" moulded into it. It has a flat row of terminals, you can trace it by the wires from the coil . In cases of overly-high engine speed, it permanently earths the -ve side of the LT coil, so suppressing the spark generation. They can and do fail (as do AB14s), but have that easy test of when disconnected the car should be able to run (unlike testing an AB14 which is a PITA).
  25. 2 points
    Yeah, it got a bit wet - I had to juggle brolly and camera to get this nice photo of Alex's car as he headed off :) Evora 410 GT by Matt, on Flickr
  26. 2 points
    Moving forward with the headining re-trim this afternoon. The tricky front part, as my sewing skills are inexistant, but still, no choice but ti give it a go. Used the old material as a template, cut the new, and pulled out the needle and thread. While gluing, 2 brackets need to be riveted into position, these are later fitted inside the top of each door seal. An overkill, as there is already a spring support 50 mm away. Best to mount the rear view mirror first. Originally mounted with wood screws, and into the roll over bar. I prefered a simple nut an dbolt solution. There are spacers behindt the screws that support the sunvisors, these were reglued into position. Bulb in the for dash illumination changed (even though it is useless) Refit, check all works and now for the sun visors Removed the material, and enjoyed discovering a cardboard card, sticky taped to a metal frame (well adds lightness) Sewing skills will need to be discovered to retrim the visors, but first some dark brown material to keep it original. Even, with a few mistakes, on the whole a positive Sunday in the garage. N.
  27. 2 points
    I've got nothing against her personally but she looks like she's talking to young children. Maybe she is? Let the dumbing down commence! Wouldn't you all prefer to see what former Lotus F1 drivers think of it?
  28. 2 points
    I thought I liked the last badge until I saw the old and the new side by side. The last badge does look a bit dated I feel with the chrome out line. I actually think I like the new badge. Simple & bold buddsy
  29. 2 points
    You'll find the ones on the left fall of first on right hand circuits, it's down to the heat and not uncommon. A lot of people used to just remove them before trackdays but Lotus have upgraded them to include a spring clip which holds them in place but better than the previous versions.
  30. 2 points
    If you had painted Michelin logos you'd brake even harder!
  31. 2 points
  32. 2 points
    1) I use Motul 300V 5W40, would not bother with extra draining - it will all go over a few oil changes 2) I use Motul Gear300 75W90 and change it roughly annually or every 10k miles 3) Dunno, I just use OEM 4) Changed to Ferodo DS Uno and DS1.11 and they work very well so far with virtually no noise. This is race compound brake pads, so keep in mind disks wear will be faster (but not overly fast) and they may be a bit lazy when fully cold (not a big deal)
  33. 2 points
    Thread bump, more stuff from Dan.... quality!
  34. 2 points
    Shouldn't that be Jocksit?
  35. 2 points
  36. 2 points
    You forgot the bikes
  37. 2 points
    Funny tax that one. Was put in place to protect the Australian Car Manufacturing Industry. What car manufacturing industry?
  38. 2 points
    Roger that. There is no Moore to say. Justin
  39. 2 points
  40. 2 points
    Yes Evija has been designed so that the battery pack can be removed, replaced and upgraded as battery tech improves.
  41. 2 points
    These pics of the front nose look fairly straight forward. I’ve stopped counting how many times I have removed and reinstalled the pods - when I got to 30. Bonnet would be double that and then some. I can’t begin to tell you how much work has gone into getting this right. Even the professional help I’ve used along the way have found it very challenging. I will never, ever touch a damaged fiberglass car again. Even if it was a 308. A bonnet tip for anyone else that’s crazy enough to nut and bolt one of these cars. If you’re keen to keep the filler to an absolute minimum, pay a lot of attention to the adjustments on the rocker cams that lock down the bonnet at the rear of the bonnet. You can vary the up and down gaps on the front of the car by adjusting the cams at the back. Another tip: Instead of using lots of unsightly shims on the front, you can add longer bolts at the bonnet hinge plate which will push the lip slightly upwards. This is the progress on the nose so far - from this; Now it’s at this level. Very close to painting; Tomorrow night I’m going to fine tune the gaps. They look out in the pics because of the lighting. In the flesh it’s pretty close. The flickering light at the end of the tunnel is staring to burn more brightly -
  42. 1 point
    They almost look to good to hide trumpets behind an air filter. Almost...
  43. 1 point
    Bloody knew it - you’ve only gone and fitted cup holders
  44. 1 point
    Fabian, engine bay looks stunning, but as John said, some decent aero quip connections would be better to stem the risk of a fire, a fire system will not always put out the fire sadly from what i have heard ! Not sure what the brass slip on connections are like on the FPR, can they be removed and replaced with male to female unions to fit aero quip connections ?
  45. 1 point
    That’s bloody amazing! Some really great playing. Move over Satch
  46. 1 point
    Without any scientific facts my 460 is miles quicker than a bog standard 380, and that was quicker than my 350S too. Strange all these mixed up numbers, not that it matters... cheers
  47. 1 point
    It's the same as the 4 cylinder MAP sensor which is listed as a cross reference to the AC Delco 213-183.
  48. 1 point
    Think you all too focused on the looks/association of these doors. When done correctly it make ingress/egress so much better in tight spaces.
  49. 1 point
    Ahh but that’s not how leftyism works - they are selective of their opinions and memories.
  50. 1 point
    Which Scottish part are you going to attach it to?

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