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Showing content with the highest reputation on 26/11/22 in all areas

  1. Nice black leather on the inside
    2 points
  2. Doh! Just worked out it’s a reverse thread. What a dodo! Unfortunately I cannot delete the original post. Perhaps Bibs will come to my rescue and hide it somewhere or change the name to protect the guilty!
    2 points
  3. I finally finished a reasonably involved upgrade to my LE headunit. When I got the car, the alpine w505 had been upgraded to a budget ebay android unit. I would not recommend this. It needs you to hotpot you phone for data, then it's very slow almost unusable for Google maps etc. I decided that if I'm going to do this, then I should do it right! I settled on an alpine ILX-705D which has wireless carplay, android auto, multiple camera support, DAB etc. There were cheaper options but few had wireless carplay. I like the fact the alpine is in keeping with the OE options, a natural progression rather than 'aftermarket' Things I wish I knew at the start.... I probably should have taken the dash trim off, in my car the red countered band the full width of the dash. But it's possible without doing this. Take out the glovebox, it's not hard and makes the job 10x easier . The 200 cables ties bundled behind the headunit and glovebox need snipping off. The headunit brackets from the OE headunit don't work for the ILx. I needed a pair of generic ones and drilled extra holes. I removed the old headunit and the short adaptor loom which connected HU to car loom. I then proceeded to snip off a bunch of cable tied to release the cables going to the imprint unit. I looked for BT and NAV units but no trace, they might have been taken out when the android unit was fitted it they were easily accessible. The imprint unit is bolted to the underside of the dash pax side. Only reachable in the lotus position, very uncomfortable but managed to free it and the cables going to the headunit. This was a pain to do, and could be skipped but I really wanted to remove the unused redundant parts. It's a shame to lose the imprint as it allowed fine control over the DSP EQ, the recent HU's don't have the ai-net connector needed. And the built in EQ is more basic. It's probably fine for 95% of people, unless you have measurement microphones and sw to really understand what's going on in car. The HU comes with a specific GPS antenna, I stuck this under the lift off cover over the speedo/clocks. It works great in this position. Cameras.. I'd decided that a front camera would pay for itself if it stopped me clipping 1 kerb. I went for the alpine multi view camera. The front was surprisingly easy to fit. Undertray off, fed the wire from behind dash to pax footwell fusebox area, then through the grommet blocking the unused LHD steering column hole, from here cable tided it to the other wiring harnesses up to the pax side of the grille mouth. We managed to feed this through behind the grille and out the mesh in the center top. Tucked the wire over the cowling to hide and used the VHB stick on camera mount to put the camera in the top center of the mouth as far back as possible. In this location it shows the top edge of the numberplate, pretty much perfectly aligned. For the rear, I decided to upto the latest multi view model "as it should be simple" Warning.. its not as simple as you think!! Mounting the camera too 3 of us 3 hours on a ramp.. the bumper has to come off to access the camera mount bolts. Once off, simple job to swap the new camera onto the old mount, it's the same size. For the cabling I decided to use the oem cable. The connectors are the same, 5 pin camera end and 6 pin the other end. The old camera uses 4 pins. 0v, 12v, vid, vid-gnd. The new ones adds a 5th pin for view change I assume. Luckily I thought, the cable in the boot has the 5th wire fitted. New cameras go direct to the HU ideally. A composite adaptor is available but I think you lose the mode switching. Going direct means the camera converter box needs to come out (more weight saving.) So after stripping the rear seat upper, lower, rear screen trim, both headrests out, I could release the rear quarter trim and see the camera box tucked in by the sub. Sub comes out easy, and so does the camera box. I ran the cable from this point forward, there was enough length in the original cable to reach under the carpet alongside the drivers seat. I'd hoped I could use the cable that came with the camera to go from here to the HU. But as they have 5 pin one end and 6 pin the other i couldnt. 2 options from here, 1 cut the plug off and join it to half of the supplied cable , or option 2. I desoldered the female connector from the camera control box and soldered this to half the supplied cable. This means the original cabling is untouched and I have a connection by the drivers seat under the trim. 1 point of caution, the 5th pin (position 3) from the boot end of the cable appears at position 6 at the end by the sub/seat. This needs to be in position 3 at the headunit end. I made this change in the extension cable so the original wiring still all original. The extension cable route is following other cables under drivers footwell carpet up behind the a pillar trim past the speaker crossover through the dash to the headunit. With all that done, all that was left was to buy the loom side connector from RS and fit this to the loom supplied with the headunit and add a antenna splitter for FM/DAB I went passive as it was avaliable quicker, but I could really do with an active one as signal is a bit marginal. After all this, I have a working sub, and headunit with the latest functionality of a new car. The improved reversing camera and front camera are well worth it! Despite the work involved, I'd really recommend this upgrade.
    2 points
  4. Push the the mechanism in the middle off the boot latch with your key or screwdriver. This will allow you to leave the boot open, it turns the lights off in the luggage compartment and you can set the alarm, I drop the boot onto the latch and that gives you plenty off room to feed the cable out off the car. To put the latch back in working order simply press the outer leaver down. If you need any photos for a reference please let me know.
    2 points
  5. Thanks, this was helpful. I got it sorted in the end. The phono cable behind the head unit is the input to the Imprint unit not the subwoofer cables as I assumed. The imprint unit drive the sub directly, the cables connected together were cabled tied together behind the airbag module! I'll post a longer explanation of the trauma of the stereo swap/ reconfiguration separately.
    2 points
  6. Fab for a home restoration, hopefully now being saved. Personally, I'd buy a sorted one for £20k to £25k but some folk love spannering for years on a project of love. Good for them. A pal has just bought a S1 Esprit in bits. The car in bits, not my pal, though he may be in a few years 🙂 Justin
    2 points
  7. Spotted this morning in Foxhills car park in Surrey. Looked fab and hats off for taking out late November.
    2 points
  8. @mdavies I will certainly be pointing out that the issue regarding the availability of the test drive was down to their stupidity in releasing the test drive slots for all deposit holders, with no consideration given to the engine selection, deposit date or build slot scheduling. I have bought cars in the past without driving them first and not regretted my decision. Without looking to profiteer, I'm pretty sure I could get out of this one and at least get my money back given the length of the waiting list. That said, I hope to enjoy the car, in which case it will be with me for some time.
    2 points
  9. Went for an epic 4 day journey through the Australian "Alps" (hills to the Europeans). Swapped cars with some 911 GT3 owners for some of it. They can keep their GT3's. Wow, the GT430 Sport is a much, much better drive than all of them. The 991.2 generation just felt heavy and sluggish to react in comparison, the 996.2 was fun, but slower. The Evora felt so much more nimble and connected when jumping back into it.
    2 points
  10. When putting my car back together I had to replace the engine earth strap - there wasnt one! I used the flat plate on the chassis behind the engine mount (red circle on the picture), and one of the engine mount bolts on the engine itself (yellow circle).
    1 point
  11. My efforts to focus on getting the engine back running did not go so well. When I bought the carpet set I also bought an additional 3 meters off the roll. This was sitting around in the garage and getting in the way. I thought the best way to clear the space would be to fit it to the car. I had already used a corner of the 3 meters to cover the lower dash side panels on the prop tunnel, but the other pieces for the boot fitted easily on to the rest of the carpet. After a while with a can of spray glue the boot looks like this. I didnt have quite enough glue so at this point the tank cover panel was on the floor waiting for me to buy another can of glue. But this gives you the idea of what I have ended up with. After fixing the boot carpet I really had to get on with the final pieces for the MOT. I checked and adjusted the tracking using the string box method, checked the castor - which was way out, however after 2 attempts to adjust it made no difference I decided to get the garage to fix that. I also bought some LED stop/tail lights and front side light, as the bulbs were really dim even though they were new. Finally I had a go at bodging the peeling lacquer with some spray cans on paint/lacquer. There were several patches on the car where the lacquer was peeling badly. These got rubbed down, then painted with some not very well color matched paint, very lightly rubbed down again, then lacquered and again lightly rubbed down before cutting back with T-cut (since thats what I had), and then a light polish. This sounds quick, but it was going on between other jobs over a few weeks. That brings me up to date. The car is currently at a garage for a few final jobs, including the MOT and tuning the carbs properly. They put it through an MOT before touching anything else, and I was quite pleased to see that the only failure was a slight leak on one of the brake calipers - I expect that is just a union I had not done up tightly enough. Its always very nerve racking putting a 39 year old car through an MOT, especially one I had completely pulled apart and put back together.
    1 point
  12. If your car has a water cooled turbo, you can probably skip the timer. They had their day when the oil in un-cooled center sections could overheat and coke up the bearing in the center section, but later cars got coolant to the turbo.
    1 point
  13. The last Concorde built, Alpha Foxtrot, flying back to Filton Bristol from Heathrow.
    1 point
  14. I can remove the thread but in truth I spent about 10 mins trying to fit mine on a trackday before I realised the same. This thread could be very useful in the future!!
    1 point
  15. (Lotus RH threads on back order, ) well perhaps not.... It's reverse threaded to prevent the ccw twisting torque from a tow cable from loosening the tow hook. Instead the twisting cable will tighten the hook.
    1 point
  16. Don't worry Phaeton, we won't laugh too much 🤣 It caught me out for a few minutes the first time I tried too. Nothing mentioned on p152 in the handbook either. It seems rather odd it's a LH thread, but it is a Lotus?
    1 point
  17. You could always screw a mechanical oil pressure gauge in & see what the idle pressure is. Doesn't need to be in the dash, leave it in the engine bay & take a look after you've been for a run & she's up to temperature
    1 point
  18. Having thought about it a bit more, the oil pressure transducer is nothing to do with the low pressure light on the S4s. The change to the Caerbont gauges in the S4s resulted in the oil temperature gauge being deleted and there was a separate low pressure swtich and oil pressure transducer used instead of the combined unit in the earlier S4. On the S4s the transducer only feeds the oil pressure gauage on the dashboard, so if that is working there is nothing wrong with the transducer, but even if it isn't, its got nothing to do with the low pressure light problem you're reporting. The low pressure light on the dashboard is controlled by the separate low pressure switch through the relay I previously mentioned. If that switch was at fault I would expect you to see low pressure warnings all the time, not just at idle, so the relay would still definitely be my first port of call. For reference the low pressure switch is A082N4039F if you end up needing it.
    1 point
  19. I've replied on your other post.....
    1 point
  20. Kenny, your car, your cash, your choice - in this case. More generally though, and my reason for commenting despite having no interest in the current Emira, the business practices that - let’s be clear - Geely, operating under their “Lotus” brand, establish and find that they get away with now, are more than likely to be applied for future buyers of future products. And so potentially affect many apart from yourself. Giving a strong reaction to what you are seemingly being expected to accept could help many others! Again, good luck with your purchase. (Especially if you do pay up before a trial drive!)
    1 point
  21. Blast I must proof read more often, missed out the I and the A from the middle. T.
    1 point
  22. Wordle 525 3/6 ⬜⬜🟩🟩⬜ 🟩⬜⬜⬜⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 I guessed this 5-letter word in 5/6 tries. 🟨🟨⬛🟩⬛ ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ ⬛🟩⬛⬛⬛ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 Can you guess this word? https://wordlegame.org/uk?challenge=cmFkYXI Daily Quordle 306 Oh great archaic words as well. 7️⃣4️⃣ 5️⃣6️⃣ quordle.com
    1 point
  23. Doubt he will be on the forum or would have already been infected by the “my car’s tucked up for winter” syndrome. T.
    1 point
  24. Wordle 525 5/6 ⬜⬜🟨⬜🟨 ⬜⬜⬜🟨⬜ ⬜🟨⬜🟨🟩 ⬜🟨⬜🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 I guessed this 5-letter word in 4/6 tries. ⬛🟨🟨⬛⬛ ⬛⬛⬛⬛🟨 ⬛🟩🟨🟨⬛ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 Can you guess this word? https://wordlegame.org/uk?challenge=cmFkYXI Daily Quordle 306 7️⃣3️⃣ 5️⃣6️⃣ quordle.com ⬜⬜⬜🟩⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜🟩 ⬜🟨🟨⬜⬜ ⬜⬜⬜🟨🟨 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ ⬜⬜⬜🟨🟨 ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ ⬜⬜🟨🟨⬜ 🟨🟨🟨⬜⬜ 🟨🟨⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜🟨⬜🟨⬜ ⬜🟨⬜🟩⬜ ⬜⬜🟩⬜🟨 ⬜⬜🟨🟨🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 🟨⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 Okay, but the jury is still out on my last word.
    1 point
  25. I’m not complaining. It will be what it will be. I’m very very glad I wasn’t deliberately trying to be a first though, it’s turned into a “perfect storm” of hiccups and problems.
    1 point
  26. LOL, you guys are hilarious. The 996 owner loved it, but he liked the Cayman GT4 even better. He likes the directness and feedback the GT430 brings. He also had an S2 Exige previously, so he knows the Lotus vibe. I didn't have time to sample the GT4. A comparison I am looking forward to. The 991 owners also commented the GT430 felt lighter and was fast, and only seemed to go one speed - quick! I think they appreciate the dual personality of the GT3. But that comment on the all or nothing approach of the Evora is exactly why I love it. It feels special at any speed. Of the two GT3's, the 996 feels closer to the Evora than the 991. The 991 just feels too modern and disconnected for my liking, despite its genuine everyday usability. One guy who drove all the cars but owns neither Lotus nor Porsche is currently checking the Emira configurator. 😁
    1 point
  27. Wordle 524 3/6 ⬛🟨⬛⬛⬛ 🟨🟨🟨🟨⬛ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 I guessed this 5-letter word in 4/6 tries. ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ ⬛🟩🟩🟨⬛ ⬛🟩🟩🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 Can you guess this word? https://wordlegame.org/uk?challenge=Z3VpbHQ Daily Quordle 305 6️⃣7️⃣ 8️⃣3️⃣ quordle.com 🟨⬜⬜⬜⬜ 🟨⬜⬜⬜⬜ 🟨⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ 🟩⬜🟨⬜🟨 🟨⬜⬜⬜🟨 🟩⬜🟨🟩⬜ 🟨🟨⬜🟨⬜ 🟩⬜⬜🟩🟨 ⬜⬜🟩🟨⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 🟨⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 ⬜⬜⬜🟨⬜ 🟨⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬜🟨⬜⬜⬜ ⬜🟩⬜⬜⬜ ⬜🟨🟨🟨⬜ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 ⬜⬜🟨⬜⬜ ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ ⬜🟨⬜⬜🟨 ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ ⬜🟨⬜⬜⬜ ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 ⬛⬛⬛⬛⬛
    1 point
  28. Inside B@C (aka "Lotus Surrey") yesterday - customer Seneca Emira awaiting delivery and boss's Esprit V8
    1 point
  29. Have you checked the low rpm oil pressure relay hasn't failed? That could cause the symptom you describe. Should be relay B in the rear relay station in the boot/trunk. $317 for an oil pressure transducer, what is it made of SJ Sports Cars have them listed for £55, even with US Shipping that's significantly cheaper if you end up needing one. But I'd start with the cheap/simple relay first.
    1 point
  30. When I did a photoshoot the photographer was hanging out the back of an estate car taking photos - I was driving the support car at the time. He got so low to the ground he scaped his camera on the tarmac.
    1 point
  31. Here's a few photos I took on the photo shoot for Classic Car Magazine on Tuesday.(22nd Nov) We were sooooooo lucky with the weather. It was terrible all last week up to the Tues, Then a sunny day for the shoot with a few dark clouds rolling in after we had finished. Since then it has rained every day. It was interesting seeing what goes on. Ive never been on one before. The photographer took his life in his hands sometimes with him hanging out the rear window of the support car to get (hopefully) some great shots of the car in motion. I have been promised a batch of photos from the shoot after the magazine comes out. Around Christmas probably.
    1 point
  32. And right there it is folks - @C8RKH is dreaming about crossing to the dark side.
    1 point
  33. Wordle 524 5/6 ⬜⬜⬜⬜⬜ 🟨⬜⬜⬜⬜ 🟨🟨🟨🟨⬜ 🟨🟨🟩🟩🟩 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 I guessed this 5-letter word in 3/6 tries. 🟨🟨🟨🟨⬛ 🟨🟩🟩🟨⬛ 🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩 Can you guess this word? https://wordlegame.org/uk?challenge=YmVhcmQ Daily Quordle 305 🟥8️⃣ 9️⃣5️⃣ quordle.com
    1 point
  34. I don't ever recall seeing a separate mounting boss either - you could use one of the engine mounting bolts. There may be a drier bracket that is not obvious - it is a flat plate welded to the chassis just below the top edge and a few inches behind the offside suspension "tower" and engine mounting plate. There are two captive nuts for a drier if fitted. Pete
    1 point
  35. Hi Phil, picked up your message. Here is mine, picked up from Silverstone at the beginning of November. Have not stopped grinning since. Just hope the weather improves so I can get out more.
    1 point
  36. 1 point
  37. One of the newest neighbour's in our hamlet saw and heard my car coming past the other day and told Sharon, the local gossip. Within miutes it had spread round the other male neighbours, 2 of whom asked when they could see the "new McLaren" 🤣🤣
    1 point
  38. Be concerned about nothing - the only thing to worry about is reading all the bollocks on the web and not buying an Evora cos of it.
    1 point
  39. Greg, is there anything in the manual about the reset? I'd be popping to your local car alarm outfit and getting them to take a peek... They're usually pretty generic so they should be able to get to the bottom of the issue.
    1 point
  40. @mayak sorry I haven’t been coming on this forum often. You don’t need tools to remove the shifter bezel (item 36). You need to have some strong fingers though as you will need to press hard on those clips while pulling the bezel up. I started from the two sides together. Cheers!
    1 point
  41. @pete is that comment aimed at me? Nothing in particular against Lotus. Thankfully they seem to making more good decisions than bad ones for the first time in a long while, but having lived locally to them for over 25 years and having a fairly good insight into the industry, I’m just interested to have a discussion about what could have been a great event that from what I can see got hijacked. It seems however that any view other than the one from Lotus isn’t accepted here, so in that case, go Lotus! 🥳
    1 point
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