free hit
counters
Leaderboard - The Lotus Forums Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/01/20 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    This is the car after a visit to the ceramic dude. Honestly, the jury is out as to whether it's any good. The paint work certainly comes up nicely, but you've got to have the kit to maintain it - it doesn't look like this magically. Also, I got a nasty stone chip just after having the work done (typically) so, it isn't quite the armour plating that I had been led to believe. The wheels were coated and it made rod all difference (brake dust pitting on the fronts), so I suspect that I'll have to have them laminated. But, if nothing else, the road dirt (currently biblically epic in Herefordshire) doesn't stick to the paintwork quite as much and the body and glass are hydrophobic, so its not all bad. I wonder though, if I couldn't have achieved this with a really good wax (at a 100th of the cost, albeit reapplied annoyingly regularly). Time will tell on that. The car is currently with Nick at Tomorrow's Classics to have it's 1,000 mile service (1,000 wet, greasy, flooded and mud-caked, but also epic miles). It's also having a fuel sensor issue fixed, as the telemetrix gauge needed a Smiths sender unit (natch). Also, I have figured out a way to lift the tailgate and keep the tips of all my fingers. Super impressed with myself with that fix. Centre console bits have gone off the Stitch Perfect in Worcester to be redone (they were bit rubbish), which should show off the highly illegal (and incorrect Ferrari 275) ashtray off nicely. And - more sacrilege - I've had a rosewood Europa (latest, more terrible one) gear knob added. I know, right? Oh, and the Apple CarPlay double din unit is just awesome. More heretical modifications, I know, but it makes the car so much more awesome. On Friday the car visits (with me along for the ride) Northampton Motorsports for the ECU to be tuned (or whatever). It's who Lotus Bits (who rebuilt the engine recommend). So am super looking forward to that, as the car currently burns through petrol as if there were great lakes of the stuff just sitting in the ground. Which means - technically - come the weekend, we'll be rounds complete on the car. I am super pleased.
  2. 5 points
    What if money was no object two black and gold 430s yes please.
  3. 5 points
    Since the storm has passed....
  4. 4 points
    ...and not a daily driver!
  5. 4 points
    Some teaser photos. Transport company won't get car to me until the end of the month at best.
  6. 3 points
    Well I have been thinking rather than messing around measuring valves and guides etc I am going to renew the whole lot. New valves inlet and exhaust and new guides. I am going to get the head completely redone. I am also going to replace all of the bottom end bearings. Its a very small cost in the scheme of this build, which has gone way beyond what you might expect. Its actually frightening considering I have done all the work. Its essentially a new car and the engine has to be just as good. The next time this engine is run it will be better than before! I am tempted to get new cam shafts rather than use used ones. I will fully investigate the oil pump and system. I have a spare auxillery housing Andy gave me which i can use to determine how it works. I will have the engine out today or tomorrow. By end of March latest it will be running again and fully rebuilt. Not sure if I want to fit an oil restrictor, especially when my problem seems to be lack of oil. Ill think about it.
  7. 3 points
    Head off, thanks sparky real easy if you jack the engine with the exhaust side mouting bolts loose. Head, pistons all appear good. Both cam carriers are damaged and are the cam shafts.
  8. 3 points
    Me.... mine is the bollox... i thought it was a very straight forward Build to be fair. My second 910 Turbo engine from the crankshaft up. some make it sound like a Saturn 5 to build. It’s an internal combustion engine, that’s all. And to be fair the tolerances are not even that tight. the main thing is having the right kit and space. Fabian was dead unlucky IMO. Had a follower fail by the sound of it. nothing to do with blast media. My entire block, sump and head blasted. Clean as a whistle. No residue. Good as gold. stop over thinking it. @Lotusfab
  9. 3 points
    Over the Port of Felixstowe last night
  10. 2 points
    I’m sure it’s in the S4 onwards manual - or one of them - I’ll try and find the section when I’m back home as I’ll need it again, and the wife’s best Perspex jug, very soon
  11. 2 points
    I’ve just purchased a 1976Elite that’s been off road for around 12 years. Hopefully be road ready this summer. Here is a photo of it used by Lotus in add campaign.
  12. 2 points
    Assuming what you've been told is true see if you have a fuse in 22 which is the CDL circuit. It needs a 7.5 amp fuse. If you have one then see if you have wiring and lock actuators in the doors.
  13. 2 points
    So.... I was just finishing up fitting the (expensive) new wheel bearings in my Elite rear hub carriers and I'm thinking - for the umpteenth time - what a crap design, when I had an embarrassing epiphany . Having had an Excel for a few years I'd got a picture in my mind of the Elite hub carrier pivoting on the lower bolt - and I'd been thinking why on earth didn't they put some sort of bush/bearing in there! However - (and I cant believe it's taken this long to click) the motion of the Elite hub carrier is not even similar to the Excel - the Elite hub carrier has no relative motion to the radius arm to which it is fixed whatsoever! It is bolted firmly in place in two axes - there is no pivoting action going on at all, so it doesn't matter that the hub carrier just has a hole with a bolt through it! . Sorry Colin/Ollie Yours embarrassingly! Pete
  14. 2 points
    Tony, I'm near Loddon - just off the A146 out of Norwich - here most of the time so just drop me a message Cheers Ant
  15. 2 points
    7600. Weekly use usually.
  16. 2 points
    Leather is used in all surfaces typically in contact with the occupant's body, so top surface of seat cushion and bolsters right out to the edge, the headrest choker, and the headrest including its sides for appearance sake I suppose. The vinyl (PVC) therefore is seen on the seat flanks and the very top of the headrest only, with that covering the backside of seat not shown in the photo. This is the form in which my S2 was originally trimmed. Cheers
  17. 2 points
    On a TE we had problems getting initial oil pressure after re-build, in the end we used an electric drill with a sprocket attached, took the timing belt off and spun the oil pump until we actually got oil coming out of the usual places (round the cams etc), so you could check that way before stripping which would be more indicative of whether there's a problem or not rather than checking there isn't a problem at next rebuild and not knowing whether that was the problem this time.
  18. 2 points
    @Lotusfab just one thought - you did disconnect the oil supply line to the turbo charger, crank the car over(not allowing a start so with plugs removed) and recover about 0.5l of oil?? I’m sure that’s the process before starting a later engine
  19. 2 points
    Hi Dave. The block wasnt aqua blasted. Its was cleaned with brake cleaner. I put a boresvope into the oil ways . All were clear. I even took pictures of the internal oil ways. My mistake was aqua blasting and media - never again! The plastic pipe method is used by other well known engine builders to check for air leaks on the pickup pipe. I replaced the olive on the pick up pipe. Sofened in hot water prior to fit and torqued twice. There were no cracks visible in any of the followers. I didnt appreciate they were cast iron amd Lotus had changed them to steel . I understand now they have flaws which cant be seen. in hindsight I would replace all of them with the long skirt followers. I learned from that! I was unlucky with this its not rocket science its just an engine. Im an enthusiast and even though I could farm it out I have built everything on this car. If I hadnt aqua blasted this and the oil pressure relief valve hadnt stuck I would have a perfectly serviceable engine. I agree though, if you do this all the time your would have built it quicker with less chance of problems, but would you have spotted the pressure refief valve issue before fitting? You've laid down the gaunlett now - i will rebuild it again and it will be perfect! The other thing I have learned is I shoud have bench tested this engine prior to fitting in the car. This time I will get Lotusbits to bench test it on their rig before it goes back in. I will post a video on youtube. If it isnt perfect after this rebuild I will acknoledge you were right and have it professionally
  20. 1 point
    Blimey 50/50 then! Excellent
  21. 1 point
    https://themarket.co.uk/listings/lotus/evora-gte/e83f4e4a-c045-43a2-b5c3-a063c017ff8e GTE sold for just shy of £70K Justin
  22. 1 point
    Dropped the radiator off at Serck Motorsport this morning ready for it be re-cored and have a new frame and fans fitted. They're also going to pressure test my condensor/chargecooler assembly to see what condition that is in before I decide what route I'm going to take with that. Was interesting talking to Darren while I was there. They have three separate workshops down there, one dealing with traditional copper/brash radiators etc, another dealing with the ally side of things and the third for inspection and cleaning, F1 teams being a big customer for that. That department is busy at this time of the year in the run up to the new season. Sounds like my radiator will be in good hands Should see it back in a couple of weeks; I've got plenty else to do in the meantime...
  23. 1 point
    aha - i am happy somebody else has finally raised this problem as i have it too. Never felt in on the NA or the S i had but it is REALLY noticable in the 400 but only when its VERY WET. about half a second to a full second delay for sure. I though i was going mad - had silverstone check the brakes twice but found nothing wrong; Had the brake fluid changed as a precaution and for my own sanity (and the front pads as they were 70% worn) and it still does it.... looks like they all do that then..
  24. 1 point
    The overhaul is done to eliminate play, so if you don't notice any play, not really necessay. You'll be able to check each joint while you have the assembly out to replace the cables. It's not that much work, but not a lot of money either. Maybe enough reason to change it while you're there. I think the black bushing you mean is actually the stoppad on gearstick outer sleeve that slides against the reverse inhibiter when shifting between 1st and 2nd. (third from left, bottom row, in the pic). They do wear with use. Filip
  25. 1 point
    For the UK there were 135 or 136 HC Turbo and 45 HC NA. These numbers I have got from certificates issued by Andy Graham. European LHD numbers were significantly lower than UK throughout production so I would guess at 10-15
  26. 1 point
    Pleasure Can't remember if it was mentioned within the blog or not, but Pedro also started to date the nurse that attended to him following this crash.
  27. 1 point
    Your Dad & I had a lovely chat about Concorde at the Xmas bash. Seems he's quite the fan!
  28. 1 point
    If there is a fault with your module, this guy gives great service: https://www.technozen-electronics.co.uk/lotus-elise-cdl-module-repair/ When my module failed the modules were on back order so a new replacement wasn't even possible. Situation should be better now, but it would be worth getting your old one repaired as a spare as they aren't the most robust device.
  29. 1 point
    Awesome welcome to the forums. Just outside Norwich here. Look forward to seeing her on the road! Paint looks nice!
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    Hi there - congrats on the car - looks good in the pictures Gerald at GST Performance in Newmarket looks after my S1, but you need to book your car in well in advance - any genuinely good specialist will have a waiting list of cars and you just have to join the queue, so you'll probably need to be patient! @Sparky is in Watford and is also an Esprit whisperer and while I have no doubt that the @Dan E clutch issue will probably turn into a full rebuild of his car, Sparky probably would still be your quickest option near to London.
  33. 1 point
    Just pull harder from the bottom. The sealing foam tends to get sticky.
  34. 1 point
    Wiring; I’m intermittently working on the loom when the opportunity arises. I’ve picked up some tips from @Lotusfab Bearing in mind I’m a wiring novice, I have learn’t the following: - invest in a quality ratchet crimping tool + a power wire stripper. Saves a lot of time & they cost peanuts - don’t use yum cha spade connectors from eBay - I’ve soldered every connector. The next owner will enjoy the benefit. Something I learned - add the smallest of dots of solder to the tip of the Iron. It helps conduct the heat more efficiently (this is after you have tinned the tip) - do not use a flux paste. The chlorides are too strong and may cause an issue long term. Use the self fluxing wire instead - do not use lead free solder - what were they thinking! - shrink wrap all connections - use a ballpoint pen for your tags. Ink pens (artline in my case) run if they get moist. Another rookie mistake. - tags. I use removable ones on string like in antique shops. Much more convenient than masking - use quality heat shrink solder connectors for all joints. They have solder that melts when you apply heat. They are easy to use and a much safer option - to help the wires make their way down the plastic conduit tubes (doors etc), use a dry spray lubricant. The ones for the mirrors are 2m long. - watch out for bullet connectors. It’s very easy to create a cold solder - don’t use electrical tape on your loom. Use Tesa loom tape. Much better finish and doesn’t leave a sticky residue - I’d recommend pinning your loom to a plywood sheet to make it easier to follow what goes where ....question for the day.... my existing relays are 30amps? Sounds like a lot. Does anyone know the correct ratings for each circuit? Or where can I find the answer? cheers
  35. 1 point
    Was going to stop for a quick bounce but didn’t have time.
  36. 1 point
    How can you possibly be married to someone so intelligent and talented?
  37. 1 point
    Yes - the little copper pipes are original. Pete
  38. 1 point
    It's been suggested somewhere in these threads that the oil cooler can be left out of action on start-up of a freshly built engine and I agree entirely. The oil cooler loop is a sub-system and is not in the least needed until the engine is getting really leaned on. Seems a better way to ensure rapid pressure build-up, and for narrowing the search should a problem be evident.
  39. 1 point
    Ooh that one..... sure does look pretty. good luck with the rebuild
  40. 1 point
    And there's me thinking I was taking the piss.
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Here is a collection of the super rare Evoras GT430 Sport as far as I could find and trace them
  43. 1 point
    @internets I drove the black 400 IPS. I would most likely keep my Evora NA, as it is for me just about perfect. 400 IPS would be complimentary. I would stick with a manual if forced to choose between two. Justin
  44. 1 point
    Trying hard not to pick my own car but there’s nothing else made by Lotus since 2010 that I would swap the GT430 for. If it had to be another Lotus I’d go for the Type 25 edition Exige Cup 430.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    For God’s sake don’t let the MIL find that one!
  47. 1 point
    Tailgate ready to go back on. Lumenition Mega Spark 4 installed. Starts easier. Seems to be about a volt extra at the coil. Still needs more tuning. Waiting for screws formthe engine cover and the seals to arrive. Then the MOT.
  48. 1 point
    Hi Gents I see so many posts where people are struggling to pull steering wheels off and talk of damage done when trying. I made this a few weeks back, it is simple, works easily and will not damage anything when used. You insert the long T bolts through the oval holes in the wheel casting and turn 90 degrees to catch, then tighten up the large bolt with the cone end located into the centre indent in the steering column. When all located nicely tighten the large bolt and the wheel will gradually pull off....easy. I am happy to supply dimensions if anyone want to copy and if really stuck I could make a few, though post from NZ might cost a bit NOTE first remove the nut holding the wheel on Cheers Darren
  49. 0 points
  50. 0 points


  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up
×
×
  • Create New...