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Herc

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Everything posted by Herc

  1. Love the pic of the headlining - it's like the inside an Arabian tent.
  2. 1-3-4-2 surely? Page 2 at the front of the workshop manual.
  3. The auxiliary housing is a casting which has the distributor on one end, the oil pump, oil filter, and a cambelt pulley wheel on the front end to drive it all. It is bolted on to the side of the block. There are about 5 bolts holding it on - all different lengths. Page 36 / Figure 23 of the Engine section of the workshop manual. PM me if you want more details. My worry would be whether you can slide the pipe down with the engine in place. Then again, your options are limited. The only alternative I can think of would be to try to braze on a new end of the oil pick-up from underneath. Quite tricky. Re. big hex key: exactly. no welding should be needed, just a bolt and two lock nuts of the right size did it for me.
  4. Regards the over-long suspension stud, I think there should be a slim nut under the nylock, which enables you to hold the stud stationary when you put the nut on the other end, and adjust the tightness accurately. What I ended up with can be seen on one of the photos here: https://plus.google.com/110688590824613490459/posts/GepFd22nzy2
  5. From memory, to remove the whole oil pickup I think you have to take the auxiliary housing (distributor etc) off the side of the engine. That means taking the cambelt off, of course. Under the housing is a very big socket you have to undo to get the pipe off. It's a really big size, if I remember, so a lot of people use a locked nut on the end of bolt. This ought to be do-able with the engine in, I would have thought. Just take the whole airbox off, and probably the carbs too. The oil pickup is also braced on the underside somewhere, if I remember correctly. I don't know if you can get at those nuts. LotusBits for a replacement second-hand oil pick-up. You might need a new gasket for the aux housing, and a new olive for the pickup pipe. God knows if you can do it with the engine in place. Good luck!
  6. My '78 Elite has imperial spec fuel pipe: 1/4 " ID x 3/8 " OD. I bought this from the states: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130704620805?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT It is softer (really quite soft) than what I had before (albeit that the old stuff had harden with age) but very tough, and fits the existing fittings perfectly. I bought 15 foot, which turned out fine for the tank to flow-lock valve, with a bit to spare.
  7. Well I struggle to keep mine in - it just pulls out from above. Are you sure the problem is not the oil pickup? I found the kitchen-dining room a great place to work on the engine. And on a stand it looks rather architectural.
  8. PS I found the main bearing cap bolts needed a lot of strength to shift, and a good quality octagonal socket. If I remember correctly, a couple of the bolts are hard to get at without removing the oil strainer, which is itself a little complicated.
  9. Yes, everything is a fiddle. As per esprit S2, you really need to bite the bullet: take the engine out and put it on a stand. Everything becomes much easier then. When removing the engine, the preferred amateur approach varies from the manual. Don't try and haul the engine and gearbox out together unless you have a lot of room under the car. I did it that way so I am sure I wouldn't to it that way again! Expert opinion on the forum is that it is simplest to move the pair forward together in the engine bay, then split them, before lifting the engine out. This is not a car designed for cheap maintenance, but jobs are not that complex if you go the long-way round.
  10. Mike at LotusBits wrote a very useful PDF on the various upgrade options: http://www.lotusbits.com/improving_your_lotus.pdf The slide summarising the chassis swap option is below: Ultimate Chassis upgrade for the Elite & Eclat : Fit an Excel Chassis - Outboard vented discs all round - Bullet proof gear box - Trunnions replaced by ball joints - Conventional rear suspension  - Variable rate power steering - Better engine mounts - Can still fit original wheels – so not obvious externally Issues - The shape around the diff is changed, so localised fibreglass mods are required  - The front anti-roll bar to body mount are in a slightly different position - Need to modify the bottom of thefuel tank to clear top of rear shock absorbers - Hydraulic clutch conversion There are some pics of the chassis if you scroll down: http://www.lotusexcel.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1547
  11. Charlie, do you remember, were those earthing points inside/under the dash? Cheers Herc
  12. The saga of an idiot rebuilding an 907 continues..... The engine is running quite well now - after the carb linkage cock-up. BBQ postponed. However, I now get to fettle the oil leaks. Well, the main one seems to be from auxiliary shaft oil seal. It's quite a leak too - about 1 big drip a second. Shocking.... Anyhow, I can see no option but to take the auxiliary housing off in due course to investigate, but I just thought I'd ask if anyone knows a of reason for such as bad leak: - It's a new gasket, looks like it's in square. - I can't remember if I fits a circlip, but I'm sure I must have done. - The cambelt seems to run down the middle of the pully OK, so I presume the shaft is fully in place. Just seems a really bad leak considering. Cheers Herc
  13. Elites are in the boot. I think all Eclats are in the engine bay.
  14. ... et voila! That makes all the difference. The engine is starting and idling OK now. I think it needs a little balancing, but so much better than before. Now to sort those cam cover oil leaks.....
  15. Aha! I think I realised what a plonker I am, courtesy of Tim Engels, http://www.espritfactfile.com/carbbalancing.html I've mis-installed the carbs, so that the linkage arm on the front carb is on the wrong side of the arm on the rear carbs. Hence the front carb is massively over throttled all the time! OK, so hopefully if I just take off the front carb and slot the linkage arm in the correct position......
  16. OK, so the latest on starting my dodgily rebuilt engine (i.e. by me). I can get it running very lumpily. I've had trouble getting the static timing right, but it is sort of starting now. The trouble is that, if I can get the engine to pick-up, it runs away with itself. I can even cut the ignition, let it slow down a bit, then flick it back on and it carries on revving. I've checked the return springs on the throttle - I've even got the airbox spring fitted. I can see the throttle levers returning OK. Frankily it's like it's over fuelled, although I need a bit choke to get it started in the first place. Confused. Has anyone any ideas? The best I've can come up right now with is a can of petrol and box of matches. For back background, the car did run OK-ish before I rebuilt the engine, so the carbs etc are basically OK. However all parts have been sitting on the bench for two years while I rebuilt everything.
  17. Yes Dan, that's your chassis. Cheers! Herc
  18. Have a look a the last pic on this album: https://goo.gl/photos/DW6GJGCxfFhvtS9q8 That's where I put the strap - I *think* it was where it was before! Herc.
  19. Cheers Dunc. Humm, not sure my indicators are something a right-minded mechanic should be coverting ;-) Anyway, I found a nice diagnosistic guide on the web http://easyautodiagnostics.com/misc-index/starter-motor-on-car-tests-1. Wife and I started to go through the tests. By the time we tried Test 3, the motor was turning fine.!! I *think* the problem was that the copper earth strap on solenoid wasn't tightened up. It's a connection I hadn't actually noticed before. It's got a copper nut on it, with no cables connecting to, just a copper strap into the starter motor body. I think it got loosened up when I clean the starter up, and was making making a poor connection. Anyway, whatever it was, the engine is turning over fine now. A small step, but an important one. I think my next issue is fuel. I don't think I've got any in the carbs yet. The dash fuel light is showing - does anyone know what drives that? I have my suspicions about the flowlock valve not working.... or maybe it's on backwards ;-) Herc
  20. I've some ideas to investigate but I'd thought I'd see if anyone has any good ideas. I finally plucked up the courage to start my engine after the rebuilt and chassis swap. - I've got a new battery - fully charged, - spark plugs are out, - I can turn the engine over with a socket on the crank pulley. - There are lights showing on the dash, but some erratic traffic indicator behaviour - one side flashes the green arrow correctly, the other flashes both arrows?! - Side lights OK, but not sure main beams are. - Fuel pump makes some noise. Fuel warning light shows on dash. When I try to turn the engine over on the start motor, I just get a clonk from the solenoid. Engine doesn't even start to turn over. Worse, when I left on the ignition for a few minutes by accident, a fabric cover wire into the coil (?a resistor wire I presume by the covering?) started to smoke, was warm, but not hot. Might just be something that has got onto the wire during the rebuild but didn't inspire confidence In principle I haven't touched the wiring, other than to remove and refit the engine, and the chassis of course. When rebuilding I tried to clean up as many contacts as I could, especially on the start motor. I'm getting 13V across the motor too. So, I'm presuming some bad contacts somewhere. My first guess is to revisit the chassis earthing points, since I suspect my excellent paint job might by partly a problem. Does anyone have any more informed ideas? Can anyone confirm where all the chassis earth points are? There's one in the boot by the battery (this is an Elite BTW), one on the front of the engine to the steering rack. Are there others I've missed? Cheers Herc
  21. For what it is worth, the distributor looks like the Accuspark ones sold on eBay. I fitted one much the same. You can buy the electronic ignition converter and fit to the original distributor, or buy a new distributor with it fitted. That looks like the complete distributor kit.
  22. Ah, I found the old discussion. It's here, with a link to the pic: http://www.thelotusforums.com/forums/topic/60745-battery-clamp-rear-washer-fluid-bag-holder I was wrong in what I said above, the washer water bag hung behind the battery. Herc
  23. Dunc. There's a picture in the owners' handbook. The battery has a wooden cover, covered with a cheap nylon carpet-like material, that includes mini-shelf thing on top, which was designed to contain the tools in a plastic roll. The rear washer was a plastic bag, hung on the back of the wheel arch, next to the battery. I think there is probably a good reason few cars seen to still have the bags these today... I did post a copy of the pic a year or two ago for someone. You might be able to search for it on the forum. Herc
  24. Showing my age, I can't remember anything about this at all. It was all sorted in the end. 910Esprit - that was probably it! I had it on the wrong side. I think the workshop manual might have clarified it in the end. Herc
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