Steve Cook

Hi Pete, John "The Nut" has been in touch after I messaged him and still needs the pipes - sorry. Steve

Pete - Mine are off an S2 Eclat, so not sure if they fit an S1? I note on SJ's website they are listed separately? Steve

John - did you get a replacement pipe? If not I have a pair of 2.2 stainless over the axle pipes in the shed. regards steve

or the simpler option is to fit poly bushes to the lower links they slot in easily

No, I think its the wrong adjuster - that is I think its the adjuster for the other side, (aren't they handed)? From the photo it wont adjust as the lever will rise up the ramp rather than engage in the tooth. Could be wrong though! Steve

Couple of problems with it - where has the front spoiler gone? and I'm not sure on the use of an excel spoiler on the rear. Steve

Denis, I'm impressed! I looked and looked at fitting a master cylinder and just couldn't see how to do it, I then looked in the footwell trying to fit it under the dash, but again gave up due to lack of space. As for the diff, at present its the standard 3.7:1 but I have an atlas axle and 3.07:1 gears that I plan to fit once the rest of the niggles are sorted Dan has done the same set -up and reports it works well. (I did plan on fitting it from the off, but I broke the spare lotus diff I was stripping - I was using the tubes from the lotus unit and bent the bearing carriers getting them out of the diff casing, more care needed next time) Steve

Matt, I toyed with going your route for many months, but being a tight wad there was no way I was going to pay for a pull type MC and couldn't find a vehicle that they are fitted to as standard so gave up. My system is a bit basic and doesn't seem have much feel, though difficult to be totally objective on the short distances travelled. That said it is easy to get to and simple to adjust so swings and roundabouts I suppose. Steve

I changed the fuel lines for 10mm copper flow and return clipped to the chassis and fitted a swirl tank in the boot to make sure the fuel didn't get aerated etc. I'm in 2 minds about the paint - it looks quite good in the photo's , but in reality its flat, micro blistered and chipped. I'll probably leave it for now and get the car on the road to sort the niggles, then decide whether to spray it (same colour) or whether to leave it as is for the original "patina" look - even though its had a top half blow-over some time in the past. For now, the real decision is whether to satin black the bumpers or leave them colour coded? The rear is damaged as can be seen in the pics and the front is poor with peeling paint, chips and the corners are white where I think the car had a tarpaulin over it for a period and it rubbed the paint off! What do you think? Steve

I must admit having got it out the garage and being able to stand back, they don't suit it as well as I though they would - however, now I have the spacers made I can use any wheels with the correct PCD without worrying about the offset too much. MOT is a way off yet as emissions will be way off and need to sort a center consul to house the switches - I've re-wired to do away with the S2 switches as half of them were broken and the fibre optic illumination system was missing. Lights work but need to be fitted, then I guess I can see what it fails on! Steve

Well after being a member for a number of years now and contributing to others woes occasionally I thought I'd better put some pics up of my efforts so far. So here it is first time out of the garage in about four years. When it went in it had a seized 2.2 engine. It had stood for many years needed totally gutting. I guess really the body should of come off, but my garage just isn't tall enough for that so it stayed on - it is a galvanised one so I'm keeping fingers crossed for it. So why the bonnet bulge? To clear the injection plenum for the 3.9l rover V8 I know its an outdated engine etc etc but the motor it was fitted with was "buggered" and I fancied something a bit throaty - it was always the long-term plan, but discovering the full extent of the problems with the 2.2 engine brought the realisation date forward. So its a 3.9 V8 mated to the existing getrag box via a TVR bellhousing. This required hydraulic clutch so I went the cheats option and have the cable operating the master cylinder - visible in the last engine pic. Radiator has been recored, with twin nissan micra fans on an inline thermoswitch. Exhaust is 50mm stainless with crossover section behind the gearbox mount, twin cherry bombs under the handbrake and then twin stainless cherry bombs for the rear silencers. Ford EDIS takes care of the sparks, and injection and timing advance is by megasquirt - this still needs some sorting. It starts fine and runs but its not "sweet " yet, more tinkering required. The engine has been stripped and rebuilt by me, new bearings and rings, high lift piper cam, head ported (I'm a whiz with a grinder ) Carbon fibre intake trumpets and large bore inlet and cone filter. Brake pipes have been replaced with copper lines and braided flexi's Front calipers overhauled with new seals, rear cylinders and shoes replaced. Front suspension is poly bush, for the rear I stayed with rubber (I 'm sure I heard somewhere poly on the rear didn't work too well?) Wheels are MGZR with turned spacers. I have the standard wheels but wanted better rubber than is available in 14". So its now moved all of about 30 foot in the 5 years I've owned it! But will go further soon as I'm moving house - hence the rush to get it started and moving recently. Interior also needs lots of work! I've bolted the seats back in temporarily for the move - the rest is just thrown in for now! No garage at new house yet so have a shipping container to try and squeeze it into Well thats all for now! Steve

Depends how lucky you feel - and if you have a series 1 or series 2? On the series 2, if you remove the under dash trim, you can see the fan covers each side. They are held on by 2 phillips screws and 2 clips each. these can be removed (with some difficulty) and this will give you access to the fan blades. turning them will normally free them up, but they may then screech from lack of lubrication - probably the reason they seized in the first place. If your still lucky, it will be the lower motor bearing that is dry, if you have a long thin flexible spouted oil can, you can get the nozzle between the blades (Drum actually) and get some oil on the lower bearing. I did this on both of mine that had been seized for years due to the car standing. One side it totally successful, the other is still a bit noisy, so we'll have to see. If your not feeling lucky, or you have a series 1, then I'm led to believe the only way is to take the complete dash out. Good Luck!! Steve

Nice one Dan, glad to hear its alive! regards

Interesting! - my S2 choke cable wasn't illuminated, but had a contact in it for the dash warning light. I removed it as I've gone to injection and don't need it, I'll have a look to see if I've still got it, but from the sound of it it may not be original, probably a triumph part, it looked similar to a dolly one I once had. Regards Steve