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Steve Cook

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Steve Cook last won the day on October 11 2013

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About Steve Cook

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  • Birthday 06/10/1968

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  • Name
    Steve Cook
  • Car
    1980 series 2 Eclat
  • Modifications
    Rover V8
  • Location
    Ashford, Kent.

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  1. They are 3L Capri rear brakes so this should be what you are looking for
  3. Hi Pete, John "The Nut" has been in touch after I messaged him and still needs the pipes - sorry. Steve
  4. Pete - Mine are off an S2 Eclat, so not sure if they fit an S1? I note on SJ's website they are listed separately? Steve
  5. John - did you get a replacement pipe? If not I have a pair of 2.2 stainless over the axle pipes in the shed. regards steve
  6. Steve Cook

    Steve Cook

  7. or the simpler option is to fit poly bushes to the lower links they slot in easily
  8. No, I think its the wrong adjuster - that is I think its the adjuster for the other side, (aren't they handed)? From the photo it wont adjust as the lever will rise up the ramp rather than engage in the tooth. Could be wrong though! Steve
  9. Couple of problems with it - where has the front spoiler gone? and I'm not sure on the use of an excel spoiler on the rear. Steve
  10. Denis, I'm impressed! I looked and looked at fitting a master cylinder and just couldn't see how to do it, I then looked in the footwell trying to fit it under the dash, but again gave up due to lack of space. As for the diff, at present its the standard 3.7:1 but I have an atlas axle and 3.07:1 gears that I plan to fit once the rest of the niggles are sorted Dan has done the same set -up and reports it works well. (I did plan on fitting it from the off, but I broke the spare lotus diff I was stripping - I was using the tubes from the lotus unit and bent the bearing carriers getting them out
  11. Matt, I toyed with going your route for many months, but being a tight wad there was no way I was going to pay for a pull type MC and couldn't find a vehicle that they are fitted to as standard so gave up. My system is a bit basic and doesn't seem have much feel, though difficult to be totally objective on the short distances travelled. That said it is easy to get to and simple to adjust so swings and roundabouts I suppose. Steve
  12. I changed the fuel lines for 10mm copper flow and return clipped to the chassis and fitted a swirl tank in the boot to make sure the fuel didn't get aerated etc. I'm in 2 minds about the paint - it looks quite good in the photo's , but in reality its flat, micro blistered and chipped. I'll probably leave it for now and get the car on the road to sort the niggles, then decide whether to spray it (same colour) or whether to leave it as is for the original "patina" look - even though its had a top half blow-over some time in the past. For now, the real decision is whether to satin black
  13. I must admit having got it out the garage and being able to stand back, they don't suit it as well as I though they would - however, now I have the spacers made I can use any wheels with the correct PCD without worrying about the offset too much. MOT is a way off yet as emissions will be way off and need to sort a center consul to house the switches - I've re-wired to do away with the S2 switches as half of them were broken and the fibre optic illumination system was missing. Lights work but need to be fitted, then I guess I can see what it fails on! Steve
  14. Well after being a member for a number of years now and contributing to others woes occasionally I thought I'd better put some pics up of my efforts so far. So here it is first time out of the garage in about four years. When it went in it had a seized 2.2 engine. It had stood for many years needed totally gutting. I guess really the body should of come off, but my garage just isn't tall enough for that so it stayed on - it is a galvanised one so I'm keeping fingers crossed for it. So why the bonnet bulge? To clear the injection plenum for the 3.9l rover V8 I know its an o
  15. Depends how lucky you feel - and if you have a series 1 or series 2? On the series 2, if you remove the under dash trim, you can see the fan covers each side. They are held on by 2 phillips screws and 2 clips each. these can be removed (with some difficulty) and this will give you access to the fan blades. turning them will normally free them up, but they may then screech from lack of lubrication - probably the reason they seized in the first place. If your still lucky, it will be the lower motor bearing that is dry, if you have a long thin flexible spouted oil can, you can get the nozzle betw
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