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Grizzly

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  • Name
    Brian Adams
  • Car
    Lotus Elite body onto Lotus Excel chassis
  • Modifications
    Lotus Excel chassis and running gear
  • Location
    Altrincham

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  1. Hello, My Parts Catalogue shows a number of vacuum hose "arrangements" in the section to do with the Airbox, the like of which I have never seen before. I am assuming (maybe wrongly) that this is all to do with emission controls required in the States. Am i right in thinking that the crankcase breather valve is to do with these emission controls and is not a UK requirement and a simple breather hose is all that is required. Thanks Brian
  2. Hello Tony, Interesting observations. As a Project you can, of course, do whatever you want, but where do you stop? My initial project was just to restore the Elite, and much of that would have been cosmetic. However a snapped cambelt resulting in damaged valves made me look at fitting an Excel engine, and It was only because my Elite also had a rusted chassis that I started down the Excel chassis route too and it took off from there. It has grown into the car I have nearly got now as I have also used the Excel wiring looms and Excel dash. The only bits of the original Elite being used beside the body are the heater / AC matrix, interior trim and seats, and even those I have modified. The Excel dash does fit but the middle section in front of the gear lever has to be modified quite a bit, almost to the point of making a new piece. The work has been onerous because I am an amateur restorer with very limited resources working in a lock up garage without power or water and limited finances. My suggestion to remodel the Excel body is based on two points. Firstly, the car is already built and everything fits, so no struggles to get Excel parts squeezed into the Elite body. The cars look very similar but there are dimensional differences. Secondly, I think that a modified rear end ( a la Elite) on the rest of the Excel body is what, maybe, the Elite would have become in the same way the Eclat morphed into the Excel. I would still like this to be done, but sadly not by me. Any takers? Brian
  3. Good Morning Simon, You are a man afer my own heart, I am in final throes of completing my Excelite - an Excel SE re-bodied with an Elite body. To answer your question, which has been asked many times,I don't know of anyone who has a complete list of items that require attention to remove a body from its chassis, I virtually completely stripped my complete Elite before removing the body which was then easily done. I only had half an Excel (the engine had literally been ripped out of the front end) so I cut the body off with an angle grinder, salvaging parts as I went. My whole journey so far has taken 15 years of sweat, frustration, finding parts, problems because the two cars are not as compatible as you might think, learning how to fibreglass repairs, make new parts etc. It has been fascinating, but would I do another? Probably as I know what not to do, but honestly I would leave the Excel body on, cut off the rear section of the Excel body after the B post and put an Elite rear section of body on. This way you could get an Excelite and keep the Elite for restoration as is! Pity you live so far away, but handy for Lotusbits. If you PM me with your email address I'll send you some pictures Good Luck Brian
  4. Hello, Having completed the mechanical rebuild I have now turned my attention to the electrics, starting with the engine bay electrics and have found a couple of unexplained items. The first unusual item is that there is a socket in the engine loom close to the starter motor wiring that I haven't the foggiest as to what it is for. The photos below will show you a round two pin socket, the like of which I have never seen below. The two wires that come from it, one slate grey / green and the other black / yellow come from the main harness somewhere, but not through the engine harness connector. Grateful as always for any pointers before I start the harness strip down to find the other end. Thanks Brian
  5. https://www.hagerty.co.uk/articles/buying-guides/buying-guide-lotus-elite-eclat-and-excel-1974-1992/
  6. Hello, After further thoughts and research I have come to a conclusion which I hope you can follow below. Let me first clear up a misunderstanding on my part. I thought that a Ballasted Coil had an internal ballast wire or resistor before the primary coil. That is not the case. The terms Ballasted and Non-ballasted refer to the circuit as a whole. A Ballasted circuit has a ballast resistor as part of the circuit. A Non-ballasted circuit does not. The difference between a ballasted coil and a non-ballasted coil is the number of turns in the internal coils. The external ballast resistor reduces the voltage to the primary coil from 12v to 6v which is considered enough for normal running and is claimed to have other benefits. However this is not enough to start the engine where 12v are always required A Ballasted circuit has a ballast resistor by-pass for starting putposes (ignition key in start position) and reverts to 6v when the ignition key is in the ignition position. A Non-ballasted circuit delivers 12 volts to the coil at all times. Having understood the above I followed the starter and ignition circuits on the circuit diagrams. 12v comes from the battery +ve terminal to the main post on the motor solenoid. From there it goes to the Start Relay, Ignition Relay and Ignition Switch amongst other circuits. When the ignition switch is in the Start position the switch contact sends 12v to the Start Relay terminal 85 which energises the relay coil causing terminals 30 and 87 to connect which sends 12v to the Starter Solenoid activation terminal which activates the starter motor and the engine turns over and fires. Releasing the Ignition Key back to the ignition position the switch contact sends 12v to the Ignition Relay terminal 85 which energises the relay coil causing terminals 30 and 87 to connect which sends 12v to Splice A which sends 12v to the ignition coil. The Circuit Diagrams do not show either a ballast resistor or by-pass wire. Therefore, my conclusion is that the coil sees 12v at all times which is a non-ballasted circuit, and the coil required is a 12v non-ballasted coil ie a 12v coil for a non-ballasted circuit. I found this article helpful https://vintagetriumphregister.org/ballast/#:~:text=A%20ballast%20coil%20is%20designed,cranked%20by%20the%20starter%20motor. Brian
  7. Hello Jon, Thanks for keeping on trying, but..... I have fitted an Excel chassis and 912HC engine under my Elite body. Or should that be the other way round I have rebodied an Excel with an Elite body. So I need an Excel coil. On the basis of my thoughts above I am leaning towards a 12v ballasted coil, but why SJ have two separate offerings still leaves me hanging. Brian
  8. Thank you Chris I did look on their website but it doesn't tell me whether it is ballasted or non ballasted. For my own personal reasons I want to buy a complete kit so that I know they are all compatible
  9. Thanks for your prompt reply, Jon, but I can't do as you suggest, well not yet anyway as the car is electrically dead. This has been a whole car rebuild and I have just finished the mechanical rebuild. The wiring looms are in but not connected to anything yet. All the looms are from an 1988 Excel In my systematic way I want to complete the engine bay ignition wiring before moving on to lights, instruments etc. I am confused as to why there is not a simple "fit this" to my question. What was originally fitted when the car was new. As a bit of explanation I bought half an Excel - the engine had been literally ripped out along with the original coil so at the moment I am coil - less (and clueless)😁 Brian
  10. Hello, I have been talking to Accuspark about fitting their electronic distributor system. I want to get a complete package from them - a 45D distributor with vacuum, leads, plugs and coil. But which coil - ballasted or non-ballasted? I can find no ballast wire or ballast fitting in the ignition loom. Not is there any indication of on the wiring diagram I have. As far as I can make out from the separate diagrams the coil is fed with 12v from the starter motor solenoid via a supplies splice and the ignition relay. The perceived wisdom is that a 6v supply to the distributor cap is best. So do I fit a ballasted coil, a non-ballasted coil or it doesn't matter which is fitted? Thanks for your help Brian
  11. Hi Richard, Thanks for letting me know. I'll keep trying. One day.,.........
  12. Well done that man. After 10 years or more I'm not that far behind you. A year or so aga I tried to source a set of Boot carpets, but to no avail. It would appear that you have what I and others need is the templates for a boot set. I for one would be grateful if I could borrow your templates to make my own carpets. Alternatively cardboard templates would work just as well if you would knock them up. Many thanks, Brian
  13. Thanks Pete, I know the flat plate you mention - wondered what it was for. I'll sort it now
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