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Grizzly - The Lotus Forums Jump to content


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About Grizzly

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  • Name
    Brian Adams
  • Car
    Lotus Elite body onto Lotus Excel chassis
  • Modifications
    Lotus Excel chassis and running gear
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  1. 503 death warrant?

    Vultures circling......... I'll have the leather interior for my 503 project
  2. Does anyone know the proper name for the once yellow sponge used in the interior of an Elite and where you can get it from. Many thanks Brian
  3. Good morning, Was there a conclusive decision regarding the above discussion as to whether to persevere with the original hvac unit with vacuum controls or install a modern unit? Pondering this myself at the moment. Speculating - would an MX5 unit fit (if they have one) as everything else MX5 seems to! Thanks Brian
  4. I have kept the spare wheel tub from a scrapped Excel with the intention of letting it into the boot of my Excel. No reason why it shouldn't fit. Has any body any experience or thoughts on this. Ensuring the tub is properly glassed into the elite body is one detail I have yet to consider. Why? To give good access to the spare wheel when on the side of a motorway in the pouring rain Brian
  5. My Elite body is now sat on my Excel chassis. I knew it would not be a straight fit, but had no inkling of the actual work needed to the body to make it fit, as I could find no detailed information anywhere on-line. So, I wish to share my experience with you. By simply lowering the body onto the chassis revealed six points of conflict. The first points of conflict were the angle iron reinforcements under the rear seats to which the rear seat belts are bolted. This was easily resolved by removing them, but more on these later. The second points of conflict were the heads of the bolts that fix the front of the final drive harmonic dampers mounting bracket to the chassis I resolved this by cutting away an area of body to cl ear the bolt heads and restructuring the body around the bolt heads. This area is under the rear seats which is an area of deep foam sandwich which is easy to cut away and shape. To get a firm shape I used Polyfilla which I covered with fibreglass and body filler before spraying with plastic primer / filler. The third areas of conflict were the sections of the transmission tunnel at the back of the rear seats due to the wider splay of the Excel chassis here. The first picture shows the chassis poking through the partially cut away tunnel wall. The next two pictures show the full extent of required cut outs. These were filled with fibreglass mat and resin The finished panels filled and plastic primer / filler sprayed The rear seat belt reinforcing angle irons will have to be remade to suit the new panels. The fourth area of conflict is where the hole on the left of the middle picture is in the floor of the boot where the top thread of the suspension damper pokes through. This has still to be repaired. The fifth area of conflict was the heads of the bolts that hold the handbrake plastic tub in place because the cut out in the transmission tunnel was too small. The final clash came to light when the body was fully down on the chassis but would not line up squarely. The nearside lined up with the body mounting points on the chassis, but the offside was about 10mm out (to the rear). I eventually traced this down to the body mounting point half way along the body which was tight against the chassis and would not let the body slide forward and into place. The answer was to reduce the thickness of the body mount by grinding it down. It’s down now. The front holding down bolts in the engine bay above the front suspension are both in and tight without any mods. I have used these as the main alignment bolts. The holes in the body for the rear holding down bolts have been drilled and and the remaining holding down bolts will be fitted where they touch the chassis as they do not all line up. The tapped holes in the chassis for the front seat belt fixings line up nicely though which gives me bit of comfort that the body is in the right place. Now for the engine..... Brian
  6. Reading the thread on front springs has aroused a fear of mine that the front and rear springs are not the same, even though to my inexperienced eye they look the same. I did not mark up the springs when I removed them and cleaned, painted and refitted them at random. The chassis sits level but has yet to have the body refitted. Before I do that can anyone confirm that they are the same or not if not how to identify the one from the other. My suspicion is that they are are dimensionally the same but have different ratings. Thanks Brian
  7. Is the Elite weird?

    John, don't forget that you would have to make and fit two petrol tanks into the footwells in front of the rear seats and connect them like the Europa. I wouldn't cut the body but leave it as it is and use it as a two seater estate car - shooting brake - hearse?
  8. Is the Elite weird?

    Oilmagnet, no offence taken. You were right I was asking for a mock up of an Excelite, but as you said it would look no different from an Elite. Dave Excell, I am genuinely serious about investigating a physical alteration to an Excel, but I don't have access to an Excel to compare measurements and draw up plans. I'd be interested to learn more about the heater box mods as I was told this was the reason why the interchange could not happen Thanks Brian
  9. Is the Elite weird?

    Just catching up with posts An Excel with an Elite back end is no more an Elite than the Excel is an Eclat. I like the Excel except for the back end. I like the changes made to the interior dashboard but I' m told the Excel dash will not fit into the Excel - hence the proposed body mod as opposed to the chassis swap which I am undertaking. If I had the workshop space it is something I would have a go at.
  10. Is the Elite weird?

    Fascinating thread! My favourite Lotus cars are the Europa twin cam and the Elite. I also like to think about how our cars would have evolved. Oilmagnet - could you put an Elite rear end onto an Excel to see how that would have looked? Has anybody the skill and wherewithall to try it? Bet it's more than a simple cut and graft job!
  11. Grizzly

  12. I won't be pursuing this any more. My investigations have show that no one makes a simple tube or pole sender that fits into a tank with the twist and lock rings. they all have five bolt holes in the top flange to bolt onto the tank. VDO do a weld on fitting to fix the sender to, but by the time you add up the cost of this fitting, plus cost of welding it on, repairing the coating on the tank and buying the sender it just isn't worth it. So float type it is then
  13. Hello Clive, That's a very usefull document It says that "The fuel tank sender varies from circa 30 ohms (full) to circa 370 ohms (empty)." which confirms the range quoted by most car sender specifications Brian
  14. Hi Clive, The sender isn't in the tank - it's on my bench I have been using a multimeter across the terminals to measure resistance change when the float arm is moved, but all I get is a constant reading of 1 regardless of where the float arm is - so something isn't right and its not the sort of thing you can easily take apart - well you can take it apart,- putting it back together is another matter! Next on the test list is the SU fuel pump which I don't know yet whether it is mechanical or electronic - the former I think as it is original. I will convert to electronic if it is to get rid of pesky points Brian
  15. Thanks for that info I've been on the SJ website and, where as cost is not a great factor - if that's what they cost that's what they cost- I was still looking for a tube sender - senders for boat fuel tanks seem to figure a lot - I suppose the tube has a damping effect on the float movement - but a lot of them have bolted top flanges not the twist and lock rings