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Grizzly - The Lotus Forums - Lotus Community Partner #ForTheOwners Jump to content


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  • Name
    Brian Adams
  • Car
    Lotus Elite body onto Lotus Excel chassis
  • Modifications
    Lotus Excel chassis and running gear
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  1. Good afternoon, I am about to embark on the installation of a modern Air Con system in my 1978 Elite 503. The original system was removed before I got the car and all I have is the original Heater / A/c evaporator unit, which is neither of the ones shown in my manual. I believe it is the later Lotus version, details of which I cannot find. My first problem is been to identify the threaded connections on the unit. There is a Daddy Bear, Mother Bear and Baby Bear ( so to speak). The Baby Bear connection is redundant on a modern system. Both the Mummy Bear and Daddy Bear have the same metric thread of 1.75, but neither are M12 fittings. Further research has brought up a 1 and 5/8 UNC possiblity, but it doesn't make sense either. Any guidance to there identification would be a great help. Thanks Brian
  2. Hello Andy, Thanks for your research. From the top they look identical. But that is all. The original ones have a row of 5 pins next to a single pin. The single pin is to illuminate the switch and is connected to the dash lights. The five pins control the motor. I have ordered illuminated window switches from 12 Volt Planet which, though non original, should do the job. Brian
  3. Hello, Long time lurking but all has been going well.........until now. The electric window motor switches taken from a 1988 Excel are all in a sorry state; I've tried to repair them but with my poor eyesight and stubby fat fingers it has beaten me. They have an odd pin configuration of 5 and 1 which I cannot find on any new switches. I could just use 5 pin switches which should allow the driver's door passenger window switch to work as per the wiring diagram, but what about the single wire that goes to the single pin? What does that do anyway? Some direction would be helpful. Many Thanks Brian
  4. Hello Adam I found these worked for me 501 W5W T10 194 BULB HOLDER SOCKET PRE WIRED LED HALOGEN LAMP Buy one and see if it fits - if OK buy more - that's what I did Brian
  5. Hello Pete I have some info and pictures for you The width of the rubber tyre at it's widest point is 125mm. However, the steel wheel stands proud on one side by 10mm. Hope the pictures help By the way I keep this tyre in the wheel well of my Volvo V40 which, because I work on the car and its bits in two places, is really a mobile tool shed. So having to empty the tools to get at the wheel it's surprising the number of tools I have bought and used just once, but still carry them around with me - You never know when you might need it again, if ever Brian
  6. Hello Pete, Please don't apologise for contacting me - there's no need - it's what we're all here for My "standard" tyres are 215/50/15 The 2001 Volvo V40 space saver tyre I have is a 125/90/15. So 90% of 125 is 112.5. I built in a wheel well to accommodate the space saver - photo attached - the bottom of the well is level with the lowest part of the car at this point where the body sat on the Elite chassis I don't think it's much help as the bottom of the tyre, without a well, could be much closer to the road, thus giving you more space above the tyre than shown in the photo. Brian
  7. Thanks Pete Pin won't budge so it's a drill out job after all Brian
  8. Hello, Can anyone tell me how to split a tailgate hinge. Is the hinge pin a rolled pin that needs knocking out with a drift, or drilled out thanks Brian
  9. Hello Pete The wheel / tyre fits on the car just like any space saver tyre - it works, but looks odd. I haven't driven my car with the space saver on, but I'm assuming that if it works for my Volvo 440 it will work for the Elite. I wouldn't drive any distance with the space saver fitted, or very quickly - basically enough to get to a tyre place and have the full tyre repaired / replaced. Brian
  10. Hello Thanks for your suggestions To clarify a few things - the body goes off for painting tomorrow and is a bare empty body bereft of bumpers doors bonnet tailglass and all glass. The tank is fitted but has never been filled. there is also no engine installed. So it could be that the the car has never been loaded at the back to spread the rear tyres a bit further. I should have measured the width between the rear tyres, but didn't - may get time tomorrow before the car is collected. Eyeing up with the front tyres they don't seem to be out of line, but we could just be talking about 30 mm out of line. The suspension bolts have been tightened but not torqued and when the suspension is jacked from below it moves freely enough. I have been unable to find any technical information, or any information at all about the springs - no. of rings, length, bar thickness, design load - nothing. Having spent most of the day in the Lotus position (on my back staring up at the suspension) and having held a spring in clamps I managed to remove (safely) the bottom bolt of the damper (lots of supporting timber and axle stands) . The suspension did indeed relax and let the car come down, but the spring / damper assembly was way too long. So I suspect the springs are wrong in some way. As they are the original springs removed form the very same chassis I can only assume that springs are wrong way round - wrong in both length and strength. If so wouldn't you have thought this would have been mentioned in the Service Notes or there would have been some topic on this on the forum? I can do no more now until the car comes back from the painters and then spend a couple of days swapping the springs around I'll keep you informed Brian
  11. After years of being supported on dollies during the rebuild I have put my car (Elite body on Excel chassis etc) on four wheels. The front end is fine - 6 inches under front cross member. But the whole of the rear end is 3 inches higher. I am confident that the body is on the chassis correctly as the floor pans are level with the bottom of the chassis. But the chassis itself is sloping upwards and the body wheel arch is a long way from the top of the tyre. I have replaced the dampers with Gaz standard dampers as per their catalogue, but re-used the original springs which were fitted at random as I did not mark where each one came from. All the springs look the same though. It looks to me that the rear wheels need to be further apart to lower the chassis. The only way I can think of is to fit shorter springs, but how much shorter? And why should this have happened anyway? Any thoughts / advice / help as always greatly appreciated. Thanks Brian
  12. Sorted - the inner wire has a square keyed end that slides into a slot in the gear shaft. Normally the gear shaft just pulls off. But not if it is rusted on!! I've attached a few photos to show how it is all put together DSCN 6323 shows the assembled drive. The gear should just pull out. DSCN 6324 shows the disconnected drive. DSCN 6325 shows the outer sheath pulled back to reveal a circlip around the end fitting. This clip stops this end from going inside the outer sheath. It also stops the gear shaft and inner cable from being pulled out of the top of the fitting DSCN 6356 shows the circlip removed DSCN 6327 shows the inner cable pulled out of the top of the fitting. There is nothing stopping this from happeneing at the other end DSCN 6328 shows the inner cable fitting separated from the gear shaft. This end has a small ket that goes into the slot at the end of the gear shaft for positive rotation. I don't know if you can see it. This keyed end was rusted firmly into the slot. Lots of WD-40, Jentolite rust treatment, a flame from the kitchen gas hob and a big hammer and chisel sorted it!
  13. Hello, Can anyone enlighten me as to how to remove the speedo cable from the drive end fitting (shown) I have pulled it and there is some movement, but it won't separate. Thanks Brian
  14. Hello, Can anyone tell me the speed (cable revs / sec at 60mph) of the speedo cable from the Getrag gearbox, please. thanks Brian
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