free hit
The Real Stig's Content - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content

The Real Stig

Basic Account
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by The Real Stig

  1. Heat will be your main focus point. The turbos get very hot, and you need to protect the GRP, as the polyester will deteriorate under excessive heat exposure. You may need to cut out the GRP at strategic places and put in an Inconel panel instead. Direct cold airflow to the turbos should be considered. At low pressure areas (eg. the bonnet), you have to cut holes to get the heat out. Finally, you probably need a new and stronger gearbox, diff and drive axles.
  2. There are a lot of articles about it on Seloc. Most popular seems to be using the ventilation scopes at the A-pillar. But I wanted to keep them intact, and I didn't want to drill any holes, so I made some boxes myself. I had some 3 mm alu-finish- plastic panels, which I cut out and bent into shape. They were installed using double adhesion tape. The main reason for installation was to have handsfree phone vial my pioneer radio - it requires front speakers.
  3. HC engine is more reliable - if well maintained. It has better pistons and the Zeus-head. This configuration was used up to the introduction of chargecooling - so it's well proven. Some have problems with the injection - I guess a result of being driven too little. Cam belt is the newer one, so you can go longer between the services. Despite the engine can handle a lot more power do not tune the engine - the weak link will be the gearbox.
  4. I had this too. This would normaly be related to poor connections. Clean all of them.
  5. My hex nut was lost during a respray - does anyone know the specs? source?
  6. Keep it as LHD. They are rare and worth more on the continent. You could probably swap with RHD on the continent and walk away with a little money.
  7. The key for the fuel caps lock has gone missing (lock open;-)). Which type of lock is used - where to source?
  8. Solved - I hope. I bought this one: The car is wet inside - but in a drying monitoring state. Power disconnected.
  9. My Lukas pull/turn switch perished in flames. Where can I source a "new" one?
  10. Take a look on the Maserati Barchetta chassis:
  11. Carnival red is RED Calypso is orange/red like Gold Leaf cars
  12. I have one from a UK 1985 Esprit. I upgraded to the later water cooled version with integrated wastegate. It was running when taking off.
  13. The Elise is quite easy and cheap to maintain. If the engine didn't have a HGF, it probably won't have one later. Gearboxes are rock solid. Suspension bushes squeek, when worn. You can change them over a weekend. Look out for rust in the very few steel items and signs of repairs. Wheel bearing is a wear part. Brakes last very long due the low weight. The suspension GEO is very important on a car like the Elise. Make sure it's correct. Look at tire wear. Well maintained, the Elise will last forever.
  14. I bought a pair of these:
  15. I am not saying, that buying a stove makes you a good cook. However, I bought two identical scales (max. 250 kg) on eBay and used that for corner-weighing. You have to "calibrate" the scales. Eg. stand on the scales and register the readings. Any deviations have to be compensated for on the later readings. 1. Corner-weighing must be done with anti-rool-bar deattached. 2. Car on scales have to be horizontal. 3. Scales must be "calibrated" What you can affect is the cross-diagonal weight balance - nothing else. It's like a table with 4 legs. If one leg is too long, the table will be diagonal unstable - no matter what you put on the table. I use the attached excel spreadsheet for registration and calculation. Corner weighing.xlsx
  16. I have recently changed the rear calipers on my 2009 Lancia Delta = AR Giulia. The calipers look identical to the VW-ones mentioned here. I guess they are very widely used in modern cars. I would also guess, they come in different piston sizes. Seek and ye shall find.
  17. Here is one for sale also - including a Lotus Esprit Commemorative Edition LHD:
  18. Tx a lot. This means, that the mechanical connection is disconnected, when the lid is open? This is a "funny" design. Since they changed it on to the S2-design, I conclude the original S1-design was even more "funny". I actually think the 924-design will work even better, as the gear motor can be placed close to the hinges-line in the side C-post.
  19. I looked into the 928 solution. This has a prallel arm system intended for a large window. However the 924 solulution seems to fit. It is a remote gearmotor system powered by wire. Like this: Can anyone take a picture of the S2 (upper window) installation?
  20. Would this item be similar to the original installation?
  21. Will it be possible to add a warning light to the mechanical/hydraulic gauge? It could save you a lot of money discovering a major oil leak in time (been there, done it).
  22. I know this is an old post, baut anyway.. My gearstick has come apart, and all the parts are as described above. How do you re-install it again? I am thinking about manufacturing an open sleeve to be placed underneath the gearstick - and then press from above.
  23. 1. Check oil pressure. Lower might indicate damage. 2. Check compression and do a video inspection in the cylinders 3. Send (old remaining?) oil to analysis 4. Cross your fingers
  24. On my '75 Elite there has way back been an engine change. The number is EM7 76 104 3134. I can't find any specifications on this number - does anyone have a clue?
  • Create New...