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lostcause

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  1. lostcause

    lostcause

  2. both rear hub nuts are the same, i.e. they arent "handed", there should be a split cone spacer behind the nut, check that this is in place, ensure everything is grit free, very lightly oil the threads and the faces of the cone spacer and the face of the nut (wd40 or similar is ideal for this) then tighten the hub nut to 200 ft/lb. tighten further to enable the split pin to pass through the castellations on the nut DO NOT LOOSEN to achieve this.You will need a big torque wrench and socket to achieve this torque, probably with a helper pressing the brake pedal for all thier worth to prevent the shaft turning, the hand brake alone probably wont hold. I had a bar that fits onto the wheel studs and rests against the ground for doing this, and borrow a 1" drive , 6 ft long! torque wrench from a friend. You say you have got split pins through the castellated nut, if it hasn't sheared (nut undoing) then I would suggest the problem lies else where... Bearing failing? or incorrectly fitted? Cone spacer missing? threads on the hub nut or drive shaft worn allowing the nut to pop off? hope this helps Mark
  3. if you want to change the clutch, the engine has to come out, the gearbox wont come out with the engine in place (great design!) Probably a wise move to repair any damaged threads. I was lucky, no stripped threads and with the exception of the downpipe studs on the manifold, all of the studs came out without too much hastle as well!
  4. finally got round to putting the engine back in, it starts and runs a treat, just a bit of carb tinkering to set it up, also treated the old girl to a lick of matt black...... demonic springs to mind! The window surrrounds and other bright trims are getting the vinyl wrap treatment in black too. Micha would be impressed with the sunroof repair!
  5. I removed any "offending " studs from manifold faces, wiped them with acetone or thinners to make sure the surface was oil free, then used duct tape thats the mesh reinforced stuff that sticks to anything, supply the carcher with a hot water supply and obviously do not direct the jet at oil seals or the tape. Take off the timing belt and tensioner assemby before you douse it. I left the tape in place for painting as well. theres a pic on my post "what have I done", very blingy!!
  6. I did mine with Gunk and a pressure washer, scrape off any thick lumps of oil/grime, a good scrub with a stiff brush and gunk, then blast it with hot water at whatever pressure a karcher works at! It did mine a treat. As an aside, i pulled my engine out with out the gearbox, it "fell" back in, just jack the gearbox as high as it will go, suspend the engine on the inlet manifold runners for 2nd and 3rd cylinder, I couldnt believe how easy/fast it went. I had to loosen the power rack to gain clearance. If you want to give it a lick of paint, I'm advised that smooth hamerite in silver is a good finish, Plastikote like I used is not good! hope this helps Mark
  7. you will need the sump from an elite/eclat S2.2 to go into an S2.2 chassis as its different from the 2.0 and the excel in that the sump has "wings" on it for the engine mounts HTH Mark
  8. two of my studs sheared when I took my down pipe off to remove the engine, seems some kind previous owner used studs made of some kind of very hard material that wouldnt weld, nor could i drill it. It took a recommended engine machine shop over an hour to drill out and re tap it for me. To add insult to injury, all of the replacement head to manifold studs, supplied by a Lotus specialist (nameless) were too long and had to be cut down, also the new nuts they supplied were a tad on the large side and fouled the manifold. It took ages to fit, thank god the endine was out of the car!
  9. check the flexible hoses, mine had collapsed internaly (all 3!) and would only allow a dribble of fluid through, easy to check as well, just disconect them, also if he has changed the rear shoes/cylinders, the chances are that the adjusters will need adjusting, mine had to be wound out loads to give a decent pedal. hope this helps mark
  10. speedlines are 4x100, same as used by toyota, bmw, vw etc,
  11. not had a lot of joy with either option listed above, shame we cant have ads on here
  12. The later rotary engines are reliable, very powerful and super compact, the accessories take up more room than the lump itself! The revvy nature of the rotary and its high rpm limit will suit the low ratio axle of the elite far better than a lazy v8, remember the original engine does 7000rpm, most v8s are out of puff by 5-5500. I'd give the rotary a big thumbs up.
  13. Cam towers have been sealed, so I thought I'd give it a lick of paint, spotty oik in the DIY shed assured me that this Plastikote stuff was the same as smooth hammerite, the smooth silver being a dead ringer for alluminium....... Its like chrome!!! The black crackle finish cam covers are being changed for bright red ones.... every pub bar prop and internet forum "expert" knows that red cam covers are worth at least an extra 20 BHP (Bullshit, Hyperbole Phenomenon), going to get red HT leads too, they are worth another 5+BHP and some of those lead pellets for the fuel tank, maybe one of those electric fan supercharger things off EBAY as well, why any one would spend thousands having an engine built by "experts" when "everyone" knows that a can of paint and a few quid on EBAY will out do the proffessionals every time yes I'm a little inebriated!!
  14. It didnt take long to undo them, just awkward, first time we tackled it and it took just over an hour, the rack mounts had to be slackened to allow the sump to clear the rack, most of the bolts could be done with a 3/8 drive "adaptorpede" of wobbly extensions....around 3' long, me under the car straining, grunting and swearing with Matt locating the socket on the offending bolt heads.... I guess time will tell when it comes to re installing it..
  15. I managed to get the engine out on its own (with help), some of the bellhousing bolts are pigs, all the down pipe studs broke. Reason i separated them was because I couldn't remove the gearstick! (getrag box 2.2), why are they supposed to be removed as a unit?
  16. "It is no secret that people like SJs source common parts from places you could buy from directly, and add a mar kup. I would defend Steve at SJs, though. I think his mark ups on those sort of items aren't generally unreasonable. I have recently bought a new alternator off him and the price was genuinely competitive with eBay. Sure you pay a mark up, but you get a lot more certainly that what you are buying really is the correct item for your model, and if it isn't he will sort it out. This sort of service is valuable and saves you money in the long run. There are an awful lot of small variations in generic items from the likes of Lucas, and a lot mid-production changes to parts fitted to Elites etc. Some items from the likes of SJs are extra-ordinary expensive, but mostly these seem to be Lotus original parts. I was gobsmacked at the price of a new front wiper arm recently, but to be honest, it would probably have cost as much if it was for my BMW Mini. As it was I got an excellent second-hand one for a fiver. One way or another you can't really lose. The other hidden benefit of SJs is if you ring him, you get the benefit of his plain-talking and forthright views, which at times has keep my smiling for the best part of a week. " I wasn't having a "pop" at the specialists, they have to earn a living and provide a service we all need, I just opined that a little self research can save money, often a substantial amount.
  17. dash switches for the 2.2 elite/eclat/ S3 esprit/ early (pre 86) excel are generic Lucas, used on BL Ambassador, TR7 among others, the rear wiper is likely to be ambassador. The front wiper as stated earlier is generic lucas and available new, the gear inside is also available new , the bundy tube and rack, and the wheel box are again all available new, rimmer bros and other triumph outlets are a good source for this kinde of stuff. I rekon some "specialists" source them from these outlets and "Lotusise" the price!!. Huge savings/bargains can be had if you do a bit of research, otherwise you can pay for "convenience".
  18. to be honest, I've done a bit of research and £25 a throw (that'll be £29ish with the chancellors sticky mitts getting his bit) isn't a bad price, some modern car ones are £100+ a piece!!
  19. Lotus bits had an S2.2 Elite they were breaking, also they do the bonnet and tailgate struts for around £25 each Probably your best bet regards Mark
  20. best bet would be to either go to a decent motorfactor, or Unipart, and have a look in the back of the Timax catalogue at the fittings available, there are various figure 8 style rubbers of different sizes, and they are coppers to buy (I paid 20p each for the standard rubber rings on my car), htese will restrict upward movement, else modify or change the hangers on the car. Mine took ages to adjust for clearance and level/centralised tailpipes and i did this,with help, on a 4 post lift, grovelling about on the floor would make the job very difficult. Chat up a local garage for a bit of ramp time and help, thats what i do hope this helps Mark
  21. cant answer that Steve, but for me they are too quiet, I fancy a pair of Peco rear boxes with 3" rolled edge tailpipes, if funds permit, I'll get a pair of those, hopefully they'll sound a bit fruitier
  22. hi Steve, its really down to the time involved, the material cost is fairly low, I'm still waiting for my GRP supplies to land! I hope to have a play about during the week we'll see what we end up with and go from there regards Mark
  23. Hi Rex compared to the excel forum, this one is sadly like dessert, I don't understand why! My grp supplies didnt arrive so I cant take a mould off the Riv bonnet yet, I'm aiming to make a screw/bolt in replacement for the standard "grotty" louvred effort and an insert that can be bonded in. I dont think I'll bother with complete bonnets, as its easy enough to graft in a section to an earlier one. The bolt in job will keep the originality guys happy as its reversible. as stated earlier, if the demand is there I'll make what is wanted, i could even supply converted bonnets as Lotusbits is only down the road from me and I could source bonnets there...........lets see what the interest level is I'll keep you posted with progress regards Mark
  24. I've got some stainless trim screws on ebay, discount for forum members.mail me for info also what would the demand be for Riviera bonnets? or Riviera style grille inserts for standard bonnets? I'm making a mould, if theres any interest I'll make some more again, mail me regards Mark
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