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The Nut

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  1. Hi to all, The plan now for the Elite is to run some redex through the engine and then put in a couple of gallons of premium petrol and see what it does, CO is currently 5.58 and HC 2500, LAMBDA 1.105, this after using the color tune to set the mixtures The Éclat is running at CO 2.16 and HC 1320, LAMBDA 1.282, as they the same engine and carbs, going to use this as bench mark to aim for. Watch this space, John Neil, I didn't answer your question, it looks like the remains of some blue paper towel I used to put in the inlets when I took off the inlet manifold, it was to stop getting bits of dirt in the cylinders. You can see it in one of the earlier posts. John
  2. Hi to all, spitting and backfiring solved. a photo speaks a thousand words. these bits were found in the colortune which we used this afternoon. Ran the engine with no.2 plug out and had a black confetti shower, I going to stand in the corner and hang my head in shame, still got high HC & CO but car running well. Work in progress as they say. John
  3. George, Let me have an email address and I'll send you a revised corrected drawing for an S2 éclat auto. the fuse layout shown in the manual is incorrect. Post some photo's of the car. John
  4. John, Good idea, one will be ordered today, watch this space. Thanks John
  5. Clive, Its the original Lumenition, I'm happy that its working as it should do. I have spent a fair bit of time on the phone to Steve their technical guy and he sent me the installation/testing and commissioning documentation for the systems when I first got the car, then spent some time later going through it, with me working on the car and him on the other end of the phone, also had a long chat to him Thursday afternoon regarding DWELL angle, the Éclat is 64.5 degrees and the Elite is 60.8 degrees. I did fit an Accuspark to my S1 elite which worked ok, so I will bear it in mind, rain has stopped play at the moment as I can't get the car out of the garage and my wife, Caroline has stopped me playing in the garage. Next plan is to do a voltage check between the two cars, as their both S2's and fitted with the same set up, I would expect them to be more or less identical. CO for the Éclat is 2.16% and HC 1280ppm, which the mot tester has passed in the past. The Elite is CO 7.72% and HC 1810ppm John
  6. Hi to all, below is the reply I have received from the BHVC. Very pleased to say I was wrong, there will be a stiffly worded correspondence going to PC mag, they should have checked/spotted it was wrong ( as I should have ). Good morning I am sorry it has taken a little while for me to get back to you on your query. Our Secretary, Emma Balaam, did refer it to me immediately and the delay is all mine. I am happy to be able to assure you that there are not currently any restrictions on the use which may be made of a vehicle which is in the “historic” taxation class. Thus such a vehicle may be used as a daily driver should its owner so wish. Nor am I aware of any current proposals of any kind in the UK to restrict the number of miles which a historic vehicle may travel in a year in the UK. Of course we do not know what restrictions the various Low Emission and Clear Air Zones currently being introduced might impose, though most will probably have a historic exemption. I trust this will set your mind at rest. Best regards Bob Owen Director – Legislation Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs Regards to all, John
  7. High to all, Four port manometer showing balanced carbs, this is at 850 rpm. Car spits back when I rev it to drive back into the garage. Any suggestions gratefully received. John
  8. Hi to all, quick update on the elite, Have stripped down the carbs and serviced them, with the service kit from SJ's. Car was most reluctant to run but after lots of double checking and fettling it is now running and sounds good. Have put an exhaust gas analyser on this week and the best readings I have managed is CO 5.02, HC 1365, CO2 %7.5 & O2 % 6.40. All testing done with the air box off the car. Carbs are balanced will post photo in a min. These are out side the MOT limits, HC is excessively high, CO has been coming down as the mixture screws has been screwed in to bring down the rich mixture. but car cuts out when the mixture gets too lean. Any one got any suggestions on getting the HC down. Regards to all John
  9. Rob, A very good question, one which I should has asked, in answer there is a letter in this months Practical Classics mag that I read just the day before my post above, I have spent the afternoon on line and have emailed the FBHVC for a definitive answer. I cannot find on the DVLA web site any information regarding the use of historic vehicles that supports my statement. There is a link in the DVLA web site to the FBHVC web site to talk to a Historical Vehicle expert, which I have done. So it would appear that I may/might/possibly be WRONG. If in doubt check first, I'll update this topic when/if I get a reply from the FBHVC. Regards to all, John
  10. Max, nice car, I note from your add on ebay "Ideal as a London every day car", historic vehicle rules state the vehicle can't be used on a daily basis. Hate you to mislead someone and get in trouble with Big Brother. Best of luck with the sale. John
  11. Garth, I think I replied to you, but I now cant find it, It was posted on the 14th June 2014, the title was " Replacing the roof lining " use the search facility in the top right hand corner and you should find it ok. I've done my elite in the same way and both look great and don't suffer from condensation. Regards to all. John
  12. Garth, it was posted on 14th June 2014, title was"  Replacing the roof lining ". if you go on the forum and use the search facility you should find it. 5 years to the day. It still looks as good as the day I did it. Done my elite as well and its just as good.

    Hope all goes well for you, there great cars to drive, one of mine lives on the drive under a cover the other in the garage, 

    Best regards, John 

    1. theelanman

      theelanman

      John

      thats brilliant stuff thanks very much..........

      I'll go and have a look now.........

      thanks

      Gareth

  13. Peter, Hope you haven't done your roof lining yet, have a look at my thread on roof lining, the linings fail and sag due to condensation on the inside. both my cars have a separate head lining on a foam backed/ridged/ roof lining from a people carrier, the éclat is 10 years old now and the elite 4 years. both are as good as the day they were installed. John
  14. Dave, The thin wire goes to the ignition light on the dash, comes on when you turn on the ignition, the -ve path to earth for the bulb is via the alternator windings, when the engine starts and voltage is being generated, the alternator voltage effectively puts positive voltage across both sides of the bulb and it goes out. You definitely have an earth issue at the rear of the car. I would also check the -ve strap that runs from the battery to the chassis, take it off and clean up both connections the chassis is the main earth path for every thing on the car. Keep every one updated, hope all goes well and you solve the issue. John
  15. Hi to all, Finally managed to get the éclat out of the garage and the elite in, have double checked every thing and all appears ok. decided to strip off the inlet manifold and as the photos show the gasket appears not to be not stuck on either of the mating surfaces on ports 2 & 3, I guess this is my vacuum leak. Question, I have two new gaskets, do I put both on dry, put one on and use a liquid gasket on both mating surfaces, use a liquid gasket and stick the two new gaskets to make an extra thick one. I have put a steel rule across both faces and they appear to be flat. Any suggestions welcome. John
  16. Hi to all, ended up making a bracket to extend the existing fixings away from the gear stick assembly. Bracket on left below. You can just see it below, under the radio aperture, problem resolved. Used one of the lower fixings and drilled a couple of new fixings into the too of the transmission tunnel. Regards to all John
  17. Have just spent the last hour reading the manual, which has almost no detail in on the gear selector other than reference to the selector rod connecting to the side of the gearbox. The Service Parts List book however does have a good plate FD, showing the auto box. the gate assembly appears to fix to the transmission tunnel rather than the chassis. hopefully the assembly comes out in one piece or I can move it enough to get to the fixings. Regards to all john
  18. Hi to all, Car is a S2 Éclat auto, while putting the dash back in I have managed to pull the gear lever back through the gate and have pulled the two front screws that hold the gate down to the transmission tunnel, the gate now moves when I change gear. Any one got any details of what I can expect when I remove the two back screws and lift the gate up, do the fixing screws just go into the fibre glass or are there fixings of some type or other. How is the gear lever connected to the gear box, same manner as the manual or some sort of linkage affair. Best regards to all John
  19. Hi mine are fitted cylinder to glass as well, cos that's the way they were before I changed them, old adage if its not broke don't fix it. regards to all John
  20. Hi, question does it point straight down towards the floor of the car, if so it clips in behind the rubber door seal, helps keep the cant rail close to the top of the door. There are no fixings for the sun visors on the cant rail on any of my cars. John
  21. Hi, any up date on this, I agree it sounds very tappity, did it quieten down when it warmed up. Which company in Maldon did you use. John
  22. Hi to all, Thanks for the replies, have spent most of the day just going over every thing that I've done to the car, Duncan has helped loads, thanks Dunc. Hometune have suggested swapping over the two sets of carbs to see if the problem moves, however that might leave me with two cars with carb issues. I have decided to take off the inlet manifold and put on a new gasket. I have checked the spacer plates with the o rings in and they are all parallel with the correct gap, mounting bolts have also been checked and are correct. same for timing and correct set up of the timing belt. as I was not able to balance the carbs on Thursday after numerous attempts, that's when I was convinced it was mixture I called Hometune. ( I must confess a distant memory from over 40 years ago.). on Friday Hometune & I tried all the normal fixes, reversing HT leads on cylinders 2 & 3, with no apparent no change. checked correct orientation of the leads, etc. no issues found. We sprayed, easy start over all the carb to manifold joints, spacer plates and mounting bolts, with no effect. then sprayed the manifold to head joint from above, with no effect, but when spraying the inlet tube on no. 2 carb, low down just above the oil pump, there was a slight reaction and the engine raced for a second, this happened a couple of times but only on number 2 port, which suggests that's a good place to start. so bit puzzled as to why it effects No. 3 cylinder and it was not constant, ie every time we sprayed. Been thinking about that and it could be that the easy start was running down the block towards the back of the engine and we just couldn't see it. Going to have a play tomorrow and see if I can pinpoint the exact place of the leak, As the compression is good and constant across all four cylinders I have discounted issues with cams not closing fully, ( for now ) it was something we discussed on Friday, I did ask if it could be one tooth out on the cam shafts, but the man from Homerune say No. Puzzled of Caterham, John
  23. Hi to All, Car is a 1981 S2 Elite. I have spent the last two weeks trying to get the engine to run smoothly and tick over, it sounds like a bag of nails, is lumpy and spits back through the carbs. After several goes at setting up and balancing the carbs, I finally gave up and called on a higher power in the form of Hometune. They, ( In the form of Peter ), spent 2 hrs. trying to get the thing running properly. I have read the book by Des Hammill, both edition 1 & 3, also the write up by Tim Engel and the Tuning Dellortos by The Apply Clan, I have set up the carbs on the Éclat with out any issues and I like to think I know what I'm doing. Hometune put an exhaust gas analyser on the car which told him its was running very lean almost on fresh air. lots of mucking about later, we came to the conclusion that the engine was only running on cylinders 1 & 4, 2 & 3 appear to be doing zilch. proved by taking off spark plug leads and no change to readings?, or sound of the engine on both plugs. pull off 1 or 4 and engine responds by change of tone and lumpiness of running. There is a four port manometer fitted and columns for 1 & 2 are both high, level and stable, approx. half way up the scale. 3 & 4 do not even register and only move on the overrun if the engine is revved. We put telltales on the all plugs and they are all firing and the analyser is not seeing unburnt hydro carbons in the exhaust. The car has never run that smoothly and was a total pig to get running in the first place, the carbs have been stripped and cleaned, jets checked against the spec in the manual. The result appears to show that there is a massive air leak on the vacuum side of the inlet manifold between cylinders 2 & 3, possible head gasket was the next thought, compression test shows all cylinders at 150 or thereabouts all close enough to say all ok. there is no water in the oil or mayo under the fill cap. Mixture jets started the day at 3 1/2 turns from closed and are currently sitting at approx. 12 turns or more to try and get a richer mixture. This is totally at odds to all the books which state 2 1/2 to 3 1/3 turns. Any one got any suggestions before I strip the carbs and manifold of. Any suggestions most welcome. John
  24. Simon, Did mine a few months ago, fit to car first then window, you need a second pair of hands to hold it while you fit it, put gas struts on last. good luck with it. Out of interest did you have short rubber tubes over the studs when you took them off. They butt up to the rubber gasket that sits under the hinge. Best regards, John
  25. There are two versions of voltage stabilisers, one is a small rectangular silver box like thing that lives at the rear of the instrument binnacle, this is a bimetal strip device and is most unlikely to make a bussing noise as its very slow to operate, it provides stable volts for the instruments and associated lights. Second one is a lot larger and is more cube like in appearance, cube is actually a relay to switch in and out the resistive circuit, it has a large smoothing capacitor attached to it and is located roughly in the middle of the car behind the central switch panel, this provides a stabilised voltage to the clock only. I have both types fitted to my éclat. but only one in both Elites. I think it depends on the type of clock in the car as to whether you need both. Hope this helps, John
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