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EliteEV

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About EliteEV

  • Rank
    L
  • Birthday 28/10/1954

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  • Website URL
    http://www.evalbum.com/4524

More Info

  • Name
    Scott Petersen
  • Car
    1974 Elite
  • Modifications
    Converted to electric, recently upgraded batteries to 28kW of LiFePO4; minor body modifications.
  • Location
    Anacortes, WA, USA

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  1. EliteEV

    EliteEV

  2. Thanks for uploading these, Mike! They are very useful. Scott
  3. Today I noticed a loud creaking sound while moving, both under power and coasting. It kind of sounded like the wheels working against loose lug nuts, but they were all tight. When I got home I jacked up the rear and spun the wheels. The noise occurred in the left rear, but I couldn't be certain if it was from the hub or the differential. Off with the half-shaft and brake drum, and it's clearly coming from the diff. A creaking sound, with the occasional squeak. Also some binding when I turn the stub. None of this happens when I turn the right rear wheel. I am hoping some of you can identify the symptoms and give me a clue on how to fix this problem. My Elite 502 shows 68K miles, but given the whine from the gearbox, the total lack of synchros in 1st and 3rd gear, and the fact that the engine was replaced before I got it, I suppose it's possible it could have turned over. I have no history on the car. I shudder to think I need to rebuild the differential; I've heard they are very robust. I dropped it during the restoration to replace the outer seals, and remember that was a real job. I'm hoping the collective wisdom at this site will give me guidance on how to proceed. I'm in the US, so shipping 100+ lbs of steel to the UK for a rebuild is not an attractive option. Thank you, Scott
  4. Do you have an update on this, Mike? I'm considering doing this next winter. First and third synchros are gone and it whines badly. Thanks, Scott
  5. I see it sold for £8,848!
  6. Hadn't thought about the advantage of two relays, Michael. I'll stick with your plan. The wires on my motors have different color coding than yours...either a different year or because it's from a Federal car. I'm only fabricating and testing one bracket for now. If it breaks or flexes too much I'll beef up the next one in the necessary places. My car had a bolt head as a bump stop (the rubber is long gone), so I've ground that round and glued a rubber cane foot to it. Thank you! Scott
  7. That is just fantastic, Michael! I've already procured the motors and am building this brackets...out of composite, since I have no welding skills. A few questions: - What is the length of the M6 rod? From the picture it looks to be ~170mm - Are you confident in the angle for the bump stop? In test fitting the bracket it seems closer to 35 degrees from vertical than 65 - Any idea of the amperage draw of the motors? It seems to me that one relay could be used for both motors Thanks very much, Scott
  8. The heat traces in the rear window have long stopped functioning, and I'd like to remove them entirely. Has anyone tried and succeeded in doing this? So far I've tried acetone and gently scraping with a razor blade, and neither had any observable effect. I suspect they are baked into the glass, but hope not. Thanks for any help or advice. Scott
  9. Hi Stu. You might try removing one of the rear seats...the belts may be there and were just not threaded through the slots the last time the seat was monkeyed with. Great looking car...best of luck! Scott
  10. To (maybe) finish this topic, attached is a picture of what I settled on for my bonnet release. It is from and XJ-6; the dual release cables are the only ones I could find in my local wrecking yard that would fit the bill. A couple aluminum bars tie this into the existing mounts on my LHD Elite, and the cables fit perfectly. Very easy to release with the door closed and window open. Scott
  11. Paul, do you think one could do a decent job applying this over installed trim? I'm afraid mine are bonded on for life! Scott
  12. Thanks again for the helpful comments. It turns out that my confidence was misplaced; the problem was in the drive system, which I confirmed after removing the speedo and watching the cable end rotate (and then not) through the hole in the dash while driving. Specifically, the short cable between the transmission and angle drives. Apparently the cable needs to be jammed and 'screwed' into the angle drive shaft, at least that's the only way I found to mate the two. It's been working for 40 miles, and am hoping it keeps on doing so! Clive, if you are considering going back to the original system I located a source for the plastic transmission drive gear in the US, for only $20. Dave Bean Engineering, 209-754-5802. Scott
  13. Wow. I painted mine Lotus Yellow because it was the original color and I thought the best for the Elite. Your lime green might be better. Good job!
  14. Hi Clive. I ran across a problem as soon as I removed the speedo from the case: how to get the indicator needle off? I thought the center cap might come off, but didn't easily. Thanks for any help you can provide. Scott

    1. Clive59

      Clive59

      Hi Scott, I actually didn't need to do that, but in the document I read, they gloss over it somewhat, but you just pull it off, it is a friction fit. This document should help. http://www.tr3a.info/PDFs/speedo.pdf
      Good luck with it.
      I am intrigued by your EV, do you have a story behind that?
      cheers, Clive
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