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EliteEV

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Everything posted by EliteEV

  1. Sorry for the late post to your replies. Everything slows down in a pandemic! Thanks for setting me straight on the Ford/Burman rack, Pete. As some of you have noted, it's about 170 lbs (77 kg) over stock weight. The distribution is vastly different, though. Front/rear is 47/53, so it does understeer a bit compared to the pronounced oversteer of stock (so I am told). Still fun on the twisties, but I rarely drive it aggressively. Hope you all are doing well over there. Scott
  2. Methinks that all the Federal models (and maybe European) had the Herald rack. I'm guessing because they had a LHD unit and the Burman did not. At any rate I like the idea of a slurry; thin enough to bathe the rack but thick enough that it doesn't leak out. Thanks for the reply. Scott http://www.evalbum.com/4524
  3. Engine oil, gear oil, or grease? Just renewed boots and gaskets for the Triumph Herald box, and would appreciate knowing the recommended slippery stuff! Thanks.
  4. EliteEV

    EliteEV

  5. Thanks for uploading these, Mike! They are very useful. Scott
  6. Today I noticed a loud creaking sound while moving, both under power and coasting. It kind of sounded like the wheels working against loose lug nuts, but they were all tight. When I got home I jacked up the rear and spun the wheels. The noise occurred in the left rear, but I couldn't be certain if it was from the hub or the differential. Off with the half-shaft and brake drum, and it's clearly coming from the diff. A creaking sound, with the occasional squeak. Also some binding when I turn the stub. None of this happens when I turn the right rear wheel. I am hoping some of you can identify th
  7. Do you have an update on this, Mike? I'm considering doing this next winter. First and third synchros are gone and it whines badly. Thanks, Scott
  8. Hadn't thought about the advantage of two relays, Michael. I'll stick with your plan. The wires on my motors have different color coding than yours...either a different year or because it's from a Federal car. I'm only fabricating and testing one bracket for now. If it breaks or flexes too much I'll beef up the next one in the necessary places. My car had a bolt head as a bump stop (the rubber is long gone), so I've ground that round and glued a rubber cane foot to it. Thank you! Scott
  9. That is just fantastic, Michael! I've already procured the motors and am building this brackets...out of composite, since I have no welding skills. A few questions: - What is the length of the M6 rod? From the picture it looks to be ~170mm - Are you confident in the angle for the bump stop? In test fitting the bracket it seems closer to 35 degrees from vertical than 65 - Any idea of the amperage draw of the motors? It seems to me that one relay could be used for both motors Thanks very much, Scott
  10. The heat traces in the rear window have long stopped functioning, and I'd like to remove them entirely. Has anyone tried and succeeded in doing this? So far I've tried acetone and gently scraping with a razor blade, and neither had any observable effect. I suspect they are baked into the glass, but hope not. Thanks for any help or advice. Scott
  11. Hi Stu. You might try removing one of the rear seats...the belts may be there and were just not threaded through the slots the last time the seat was monkeyed with. Great looking car...best of luck! Scott
  12. To (maybe) finish this topic, attached is a picture of what I settled on for my bonnet release. It is from and XJ-6; the dual release cables are the only ones I could find in my local wrecking yard that would fit the bill. A couple aluminum bars tie this into the existing mounts on my LHD Elite, and the cables fit perfectly. Very easy to release with the door closed and window open. Scott
  13. Paul, do you think one could do a decent job applying this over installed trim? I'm afraid mine are bonded on for life! Scott
  14. Thanks again for the helpful comments. It turns out that my confidence was misplaced; the problem was in the drive system, which I confirmed after removing the speedo and watching the cable end rotate (and then not) through the hole in the dash while driving. Specifically, the short cable between the transmission and angle drives. Apparently the cable needs to be jammed and 'screwed' into the angle drive shaft, at least that's the only way I found to mate the two. It's been working for 40 miles, and am hoping it keeps on doing so! Clive, if you are considering going back to the original sy
  15. Wow. I painted mine Lotus Yellow because it was the original color and I thought the best for the Elite. Your lime green might be better. Good job!
  16. Hi Clive. I ran across a problem as soon as I removed the speedo from the case: how to get the indicator needle off? I thought the center cap might come off, but didn't easily. Thanks for any help you can provide. Scott

    1. Clive59

      Clive59

      Hi Scott, I actually didn't need to do that, but in the document I read, they gloss over it somewhat, but you just pull it off, it is a friction fit. This document should help. http://www.tr3a.info/PDFs/speedo.pdf
      Good luck with it.
      I am intrigued by your EV, do you have a story behind that?
      cheers, Clive

  17. Thanks for the replies. Clive, yesterday I removed, cleaned, and inspected the nylon drive gear and the angle gear; both looked good. With my new speedo cable I'm confident the drive portion of the system is working well. Surprisingly to me, everything worked fine for the 25 miles I drove after that. If the speedo starts screwing up again I'll tear it down and will likely come back to you for advice. Scott
  18. Anyone pried into the guts of the Smiths speedo? My problem: it works for a few miles or less then doesn't register at all; when I back up even a few feet it starts working again going forward. I have a new cable. Anyone experienced similar symptoms and corrected them? Thanks in advance. Scott
  19. I had a similar large crack close to the front mounting point. I ground the crack and layered in glass cloth and epoxy resin. I would highly recommend epoxy over polyester resin, because the former bonds with old FRP much better. It is more expensive, but the end result is much better. I've never had a problem since the repair. I'm afraid I disagree with Charlie...SS wire will not add any significant structural integrity. Scott
  20. I have a huge gap at the top of the driver's side window. It may have been there since I got the car, but I've only recently been driving my Elite at speed where the noise and cold air influx is very noticeable. The passenger door is fine. I have new weatherstripping from FJ, but there is almost half an inch between the top of the frame and the weatherstripping. The front and rear parts of the frame are flush with the weatherstripping. Has anyone else had this problem? I've had the door completely apart several times, but have been very careful not to bend the frame. The window moves perfe
  21. Hi all. I have the two original nozzles I would like to install and get the washers working, but do not know what the original installation looked like. I presume they mount into the holes drilled into the ledge supporting the screen over the fresh air vent. Are there special fittings for mounting? I'm thinking of using brass compression fittings to hold them in place, but there might be a better solution. Any help and/or pictures would be greatly appreciated! Scott P.S. The washer pump is long gone. Where was this originally installed?
  22. I would like to fit an aftermarket steering wheel to my Elite 502. I imagine I'll need an adapter to mate a modern wheel to the splines on the original shaft, but haven't a clue where to look for one. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Scott
  23. Thanks for the reply, Paul. I think I'll use a moderate-strength silicone adhesive to bond the window in. I have both the cable release and a remote solenoid to operate the boot window, so hopefully will never have to remove it. I've also heard of people gaining access to the latch by removing the rear taillight. Scott
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