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EliteEV

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Posts posted by EliteEV

  1. Sorry for the late post to your replies. Everything slows down in a pandemic!

    Thanks for setting me straight on the Ford/Burman rack, Pete.

    As some of you have noted, it's about 170 lbs (77 kg) over stock weight. The distribution is vastly different, though. Front/rear is 47/53, so it does understeer a bit compared to the pronounced oversteer of stock (so I am told). Still fun on the twisties, but I rarely drive it aggressively. 

    Hope you all are doing well over there.

    Scott

  2. Today I noticed a loud creaking sound while moving, both under power and coasting. It kind of sounded like the wheels working against loose lug nuts, but they were all tight.

    When I got home I jacked up the rear and spun the wheels. The noise occurred in the left rear, but I couldn't be certain if it was from the hub or the differential. Off with the half-shaft and brake drum, and it's clearly coming from the diff. A creaking sound, with the occasional squeak. Also some binding when I turn the stub. None of this happens when I turn the right rear wheel. I am hoping some of you can identify the symptoms and give me a clue on how to fix this problem.

    My Elite 502 shows 68K miles, but given the whine from the gearbox, the total lack of synchros in 1st and 3rd gear, and the fact that the engine was replaced before I got it, I suppose it's possible it could have turned over. I have no history on the car.

    I shudder to think I need to rebuild the differential; I've heard they are very robust. I dropped it during the restoration to replace the outer seals, and remember that was a real job. I'm hoping the collective wisdom at this site will give me guidance on how to proceed. I'm in the US, so shipping 100+ lbs of steel to the UK for a rebuild is not an attractive option.

    Thank you,

    Scott

  3. Hadn't thought about the advantage of two relays, Michael. I'll stick with your plan. The wires on my motors have different color coding than yours...either a different year or because it's from a Federal car.

     

    I'm only fabricating and testing one bracket for now. If it breaks or flexes too much I'll beef up the next one in the necessary places. My car had a bolt head as a bump stop (the rubber is long gone), so I've ground that round and glued a rubber cane foot to it.

     

    Thank you!

     

    Scott

  4. That is just fantastic, Michael! I've already procured the motors and am building this brackets...out of composite, since I have no welding skills.  A few questions:

     

    - What is the length of the M6 rod? From the picture it looks to be ~170mm

    - Are you confident in the angle for the bump stop? In test fitting the bracket it seems closer to 35 degrees from vertical than 65

    - Any idea of the amperage draw of the motors? It seems to me that one relay could be used for both motors

     

    Thanks very much,

     

    Scott

  5. The heat traces in the rear window have long stopped functioning, and I'd like to remove them entirely. Has anyone tried and succeeded in doing this? So far I've tried acetone and gently scraping with a razor blade, and neither had any observable effect. I suspect they are baked into the glass, but hope not.

     

    Thanks for any help or advice.

     

    Scott

  6. To (maybe) finish this topic, attached is a picture of what I settled on for my bonnet release. It is from and XJ-6; the dual release cables are the only ones I could find in my local wrecking yard that would fit the bill. A couple aluminum bars tie this into the existing mounts on my LHD Elite, and the cables fit perfectly. Very easy to release with the door closed and window open.

     

    Scott

     

     

     

  7. Thanks again for the helpful comments. It turns out that my confidence was misplaced; the problem was in the drive system, which I confirmed after removing the speedo and watching the cable end rotate (and then not) through the hole in the dash while driving. Specifically, the short cable between the transmission and angle drives. Apparently the cable needs to be jammed and 'screwed' into the angle drive shaft, at least that's the only way I found to mate the two. It's been working for 40 miles, and am hoping it keeps on doing so!

     

    Clive, if you are considering going back to the original system I located a source for the plastic transmission drive gear in the US, for only $20. Dave Bean Engineering, 209-754-5802.

     

    Scott

  8. Thanks for the replies.

     

    Clive, yesterday I removed, cleaned, and inspected the nylon drive gear and the angle gear; both looked good. With my new speedo cable I'm confident the drive portion of the system is working well. Surprisingly to me, everything worked fine for the 25 miles I drove after that. If the speedo starts screwing up again I'll tear it down and will likely come back to you for advice.

     

    Scott

  9. I had a similar large crack close to the front mounting point. I ground the crack and layered in glass cloth and epoxy resin. I would highly recommend epoxy over polyester resin, because the former bonds with old FRP much better. It is more expensive, but the end result is much better. I've never had a problem since the repair.

     

    I'm afraid I disagree with Charlie...SS wire will not add any significant structural integrity.

     

    Scott

  10. I have a huge gap at the top of the driver's side window. It may have been there since I got the car, but I've only recently been driving my Elite at speed where the noise and cold air influx is very noticeable. The passenger door is fine. I have new weatherstripping from FJ, but there is almost half an inch between the top of the frame and the weatherstripping. The front and rear parts of the frame are flush with the weatherstripping.

     

    Has anyone else had this problem? I've had the door completely apart several times, but have been very careful not to bend the frame. The window moves perfectly within the frame. I suppose I could graft more material onto the weatherstripping, but this would not look good. Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated.

     

    Scott

  11. Hi all. I have the two original nozzles I would like to install and get the washers working, but do not know what the original installation looked like. I presume they mount into the holes drilled into the ledge supporting the screen over the fresh air vent. Are there special fittings for mounting? I'm thinking of using brass compression fittings to hold them in place, but there might be a better solution.

     

    Any help and/or pictures would be greatly appreciated!

     

    Scott

     

    P.S. The washer pump is long gone. Where was this originally installed?

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