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BrianK

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BrianK last won the day on February 21 2020

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About BrianK

  • Rank
    LO
  • Birthday September 26

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  • Name
    BK
  • Car
    2005 Elise, 1974 Elite
  • Location
    Los Angeles, CA

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  1. Freshly refreshed, non-leaking diff. Considering I was only a few bolts away from having the diff out after removing the half shafts and hub carriers, it was a no-brainer to fix the leaky diff now rather than wait until later. As is probably clear from my previous posts, I'm not a mechanic... I'm a software developer with a need to use my hands on occasion. As such, I'm well aware that there are some items on my to-do list that are beyond my ability. Believing the diff to be one of those things, I elected to farm the work out to a local specialist. Again, I went to Lotus PBC, w
  2. Steve found the spares. New bearings are on the way. All is well in the world. During this process, I removed the brake drums to find that one side of the diff is leaking so bad that it’s made that brake useless. It might be a little hard to see in the pic, but those shoes are soaked in oil. I think I’ll pull the diff and have it rebuilt - or at least re-sealed - while I’m back here (rebuilding the diff on my own is above my pay grade)
  3. Hub carriers for different bearings would be amazing! I’ve fallen in love with the cartridge type - where the bearing comes in a housing, so the whole housing gets replaced instead of just the bearing... 4 bolts and you’re done. I figure, while I’m tossing coins into the wishing well that I’d make that suggestion. I believe the hub is an early type simply because it’s a ‘74 elite. I read, on SJ, that the earlier models have a different “dirt flinger” but I don’t know what that is to determine which mine is.
  4. Welp... When I pulled the hub off, I found that the circlip that retains the bearing was just floating between the carrier and hub. I’m not sure if the bearing failed and caused the circlip to weaken and pop out; or if the circlip wasn’t seated properly, which then caused the bearing to fail. Regardless, the bearing pushed through the hub carrier until the half shaft was grinding on the hub carrier - seems that was the only thing that prevented it from pushing all the way through. I suppose because of the difference in materials, I heard no noise and noticed no grindin
  5. Prepare for another entry in which I drone on at length about a subject with which I recently became familiar - carburetors, specifically Dellorto DHLA carburetors. The TL;DR (too long; didn't read) version is: After researching Dellorto carburetor calibrations until my eyes dried up, in trying to properly tune my completely-out-of-tune DHLA45's, I second guessed my findings and abilities to the point that I took the car to a specialist who, without my intervening, charged well over $1000 to do *exactly* what I had planned to do, had I done the work myself (though, let's be honest... they pro
  6. While not that exciting, it's worth mentioning that tires for this car are difficult to find. To make a long, not-so-interesting story less long: I found that prioritytire.com (in the US) carries a lot of off-brand tires, many of which come in stock Elite sizes. It's difficult to decided between a lot of unknown brands, as there just isn't much information available on them. In the end, then, I chose Accelera Phi-R tires. Accelera Phi-R seem to be somewhat popular with the drifting crowd because they are cheap and not awful. OH well, the whole set was $300, shipped; so if I end up replacing
  7. I'm a little behind on updates, so to start the catch-up, let's talk about the never-intended-to-be-a-project project: the front bumper. When I was installing the front suspension, while sitting on the ground in front of the car, I noticed that the bumper wasn't straight. It wasn't far off, and, honestly, I'd never noticed it was off until I was sat on the ground just a couple feet away. But... I can't leave well enough alone, so I thought I should fix it. In doing so, I realized that the bumper "skin" was sagging on the top surface, the marker/flashers were installed upside down (with
  8. Interesting (and valuable) to hear that you prefer the Getrag. I’ve read that the w58 gear ratios are more suited for our car, but have heard no first-hand experience. What did you use for a bell housing? The Lotus unit? I fear that (The Lotus bell housing) will be near impossible to find in the US... I believe Lotus stopped importing the Elite/Eclat/Excel before the switch to Getrag.
  9. For the Googlers, I got a little more info from Dellorto.co.uk (thanks for the suggestion, John), so I'll add it here to spread the knowledge:
  10. HA! Found it. In the Dellorto Carburetor section of the Esprit Workshop manual, they show the tag numbers (oddly, in the Elite Workshop manual, they don't): So my carbs are from a high-compression (?) Excel, which is a "Spec 10".
  11. For the record, I just went back to the car to double-check the ID tags and noticed that there is actually a faint "D" stamped next to the "DHLA45" casting, so these are DHLA45D's. Maybe they are Lotus after all? research continues...
  12. Thanks Dan - that does help to some degree. I know, now, that these aren't Lotus carbs. From your image, I was able to find a pdf of the book you've got: http://www.vintagegarage.ru/files/Fuel/Dellorto_calibration_table.pdf ... but, unfortunately, it doesn't list 5381 or 5382, so original source, and therefore original calibration is unknown. I suppose that means I'm left to pulling it apart to see what's in it. I sense another project in the making. From my research, it appears that the Lotus "Spec 5" setup is the best starting point. Not an inexpensive target
  13. All US Elites came with Stromberg carburetors. My 1974, however, has Dellortos. From where they came, I have no idea. The stamp in the casting says "DHLA45" with no letter after it. (Were all non-turbo Lotus Dellortos "DLHA45E"?). The ID tags are 5381 & 5382 (A & P). I'm working on a bit of a sputter at low revs & it would help if I knew the starting point of the carbs. I know there were several different Lotus specs, and that those specs were different from those of other manufactures. I believe the ID tag on the float chamber says for which car/engine it was originally se
  14. Welp... this is the only evidence I have, and I don't see any cracks, so I'm going to call them good and pretend this conversation never happened. (Good tip on checking them regularly - I'll put that on the list. Thanks!)
  15. Nope! Didn't know that was a thing. 😰 I did spend quite a lot of time cleaning/painting, but I wasn't looking for anything specific. Where do they crack - I'm guessing along one of the 90 degree bends? (I ask as I frantically look through all my disassembly pictures) Finger's crossed that they are OK - there's no way to see cracks now that they're coated.
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