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Everything posted by BrianK

  1. Welp... When I pulled the hub off, I found that the circlip that retains the bearing was just floating between the carrier and hub. I’m not sure if the bearing failed and caused the circlip to weaken and pop out; or if the circlip wasn’t seated properly, which then caused the bearing to fail. Regardless, the bearing pushed through the hub carrier until the half shaft was grinding on the hub carrier - seems that was the only thing that prevented it from pushing all the way through. I suppose because of the difference in materials, I heard no noise and noticed no grindin
  2. Prepare for another entry in which I drone on at length about a subject with which I recently became familiar - carburetors, specifically Dellorto DHLA carburetors. The TL;DR (too long; didn't read) version is: After researching Dellorto carburetor calibrations until my eyes dried up, in trying to properly tune my completely-out-of-tune DHLA45's, I second guessed my findings and abilities to the point that I took the car to a specialist who, without my intervening, charged well over $1000 to do *exactly* what I had planned to do, had I done the work myself (though, let's be honest... they pro
  3. While not that exciting, it's worth mentioning that tires for this car are difficult to find. To make a long, not-so-interesting story less long: I found that (in the US) carries a lot of off-brand tires, many of which come in stock Elite sizes. It's difficult to decided between a lot of unknown brands, as there just isn't much information available on them. In the end, then, I chose Accelera Phi-R tires. Accelera Phi-R seem to be somewhat popular with the drifting crowd because they are cheap and not awful. OH well, the whole set was $300, shipped; so if I end up replacing
  4. I'm a little behind on updates, so to start the catch-up, let's talk about the never-intended-to-be-a-project project: the front bumper. When I was installing the front suspension, while sitting on the ground in front of the car, I noticed that the bumper wasn't straight. It wasn't far off, and, honestly, I'd never noticed it was off until I was sat on the ground just a couple feet away. But... I can't leave well enough alone, so I thought I should fix it. In doing so, I realized that the bumper "skin" was sagging on the top surface, the marker/flashers were installed upside down (with
  5. Interesting (and valuable) to hear that you prefer the Getrag. I’ve read that the w58 gear ratios are more suited for our car, but have heard no first-hand experience. What did you use for a bell housing? The Lotus unit? I fear that (The Lotus bell housing) will be near impossible to find in the US... I believe Lotus stopped importing the Elite/Eclat/Excel before the switch to Getrag.
  6. For the Googlers, I got a little more info from (thanks for the suggestion, John), so I'll add it here to spread the knowledge:
  7. HA! Found it. In the Dellorto Carburetor section of the Esprit Workshop manual, they show the tag numbers (oddly, in the Elite Workshop manual, they don't): So my carbs are from a high-compression (?) Excel, which is a "Spec 10".
  8. For the record, I just went back to the car to double-check the ID tags and noticed that there is actually a faint "D" stamped next to the "DHLA45" casting, so these are DHLA45D's. Maybe they are Lotus after all? research continues...
  9. Thanks Dan - that does help to some degree. I know, now, that these aren't Lotus carbs. From your image, I was able to find a pdf of the book you've got: ... but, unfortunately, it doesn't list 5381 or 5382, so original source, and therefore original calibration is unknown. I suppose that means I'm left to pulling it apart to see what's in it. I sense another project in the making. From my research, it appears that the Lotus "Spec 5" setup is the best starting point. Not an inexpensive target
  10. All US Elites came with Stromberg carburetors. My 1974, however, has Dellortos. From where they came, I have no idea. The stamp in the casting says "DHLA45" with no letter after it. (Were all non-turbo Lotus Dellortos "DLHA45E"?). The ID tags are 5381 & 5382 (A & P). I'm working on a bit of a sputter at low revs & it would help if I knew the starting point of the carbs. I know there were several different Lotus specs, and that those specs were different from those of other manufactures. I believe the ID tag on the float chamber says for which car/engine it was originally se
  11. Welp... this is the only evidence I have, and I don't see any cracks, so I'm going to call them good and pretend this conversation never happened. (Good tip on checking them regularly - I'll put that on the list. Thanks!)
  12. Nope! Didn't know that was a thing. I did spend quite a lot of time cleaning/painting, but I wasn't looking for anything specific. Where do they crack - I'm guessing along one of the 90 degree bends? (I ask as I frantically look through all my disassembly pictures) Finger's crossed that they are OK - there's no way to see cracks now that they're coated.
  13. I was planning on this entry being for the front suspension and the "end of round one" - where the car would be in good running order, minus a few big items that could be put off for a later date. I'd hoped to get to those items after having had a chance to drive the car more than around the block. Instead, it's turned out to be a bit of bruised onion, where peeling off layers to repair them exposes underlying bruised layers that need attention. Having said that, I'm still of the opinion that it's in surprisingly good shape, considering its age. It might even be up to muster for some; b
  14. Thanks for that, Dan. Happy to see you're still on the forum - I asked you for tips for a roll cage for the Elite back in 2010. We're still racing it today, with that same cage!
  15. I don't mean to thread-jack for an Elite, but... I'm going to threadjack for an Elite. I was just coming here to post this very question for the same reason. For my '74 Elite, I have to replace a UJ because the zerk broke off, couldn't be removed with torx bit or extraction tool, and when I went to drill out and re-tap (while lying on my back under the car), the tap snapped & is lodged in the hole. So now it has to come out & I'll probably just replace the UJ. On the Facebook thread, some were saying the propshaft had to come out through the front. Is that true for the Elit
  16. The answer was pretty obvious when I finally dug the transmission out of storage and opened the case. Anyone need a paperweight? I think it's time for a W58. I believe Lotus Bits and Conversion Components are my sources for conversion kits, yes? Any other options?
  17. I bought my car knowing that it has bad 2nd and 3rd gear synchros, BUT it came with a spare gearbox. When I bought it, the seller said that the spare was a "good" gearbox, but when I pressed him (after buying the car), he said that he didn't really know the condition of it. In fact, he had inherited the car, and the real previous owner is now deceased; so there's really no telling. With that... is there some way to determine if the gearbox is good before installing it? While I'm asking - any tips on replacing the gearbox? Does the engine have to come all the way out of the en
  18. Neil, I may be blind, but I didn't see anything in my workshop manual about additional bracing. Can you provide any more info, or ideas on where I can find it in the manual? On to today's update: Rewind back to my first post-purchase inspection of the car... One of the biggest issues I saw was a loose steering rack: The steering rack, then, became one of the "must have" fixes before getting back on the road. I called around to the usual suspects in the US to find a rack, but none were available. Shipping from the UK was cost-prohibitive, so rebuildin
  19. For anyone who gets to this thread from a search, I ended up making new shims. I drew the shim in Adobe Illustrator (because that's what I have access to) then gave the drawings to machine shop. I was going to use an online service for laser cutting until I found a friend who happens to own a CNC mill & did the work for free.
  20. Take this with a grain of salt, as I'm no expert, but I'll also add that a possible test for bad earth is to simply add another, temporary earth strap when the car doesn't start. When the car is misbehaving, run a jumper cable from the negative battery post to the engine block, then try to start again. If that works, you know you're not getting good earth. If that doesn't help, the problem exists elsewhere.
  21. In my case, at the end of the day, I ended up replacing the entire wiring harness. It was never right until I did. My OE wiring harness was in pretty bad shape - having been melted in several places with most of the terminals being fairly oxidized and most wires being frayed at the terminal: The first of my starter problems. by Brian Knudson, on Flickr Part of the old harness by Brian Knudson, on Flickr If you want to go that route, Auto Sparks has complete harnesses. They aren't cheap, but they are very well made:
  22. I'm in the process of rebuilding my steering rack using the Esprit rebuild kit from Lotus Marques (I'm told the early Esprit shares the manual rack with the Elite). It appears that my rack is a "frankenstein rack" in that many of the dimensions are slightly out of spec with the kit. I've already had to have the end bushing remanufactured locally, now I'm running into more problems with the pinion gear... My current challenge is that the replacement pinion bearings ride on sleeves that are a bit longer than the ones that came out. This makes the bearing spacer extend out of the housi
  23. Thanks! I'm having a hell of a time with the steering rack. The rebuild kit had parts that don't fit - forcing me to manufacture them myself. Luckily, I have a lathe at work... unfortunately, the dimensions I was given were wrong (my own fault for not verifying), so when I got the newly made bronze bush back home, it didn't fit. I'm going back tomorrow to make a second replacement bush, and can hopefully finish the rack this weekend. After that, the only thing stopping me from putting the whole thing back together is the front wheel bearings - still need to press the races out & have no
  24. We've got adjustable coilovers on the front of the race car ('74 Elite). They came from GAZ. We run a V8, so we called GAZ to get suggestions on which shocks/springs to use. They weren't very expensive and have lasted a long time. Can't comment much on experience being that it's a race car and never sees street use. They're fine on the track.
  25. I may have posted this elsewhere, but I've never seen this "Road Tested" sticker before, and think it's great
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