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About Clive59

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  • Birthday 04/01/1959

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    Electronics and software design, messing with cars, photography, travelling, music, squash, and lots of other stuff if possible

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  • Name
    Clive Swatton
  • Car
    Elite S2.2, Elite S1 502(parked in AUS)
  • Location
    Perthshire, Scotland

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  1. And don't forget you may be able to get either a 3.73 or 4.1 ratio, depending on what you want. 4.1 was standard.
  2. John, Have you checked that spark is actually going to each cylinder? If you put the timing light pickup on each lead and it triggers then all good. I had a faulty magnetic trigger wheel in the distributor which caused the ignition module to not sense for two cylinders. Also, have you done a static check that when the engine is in the position when ignition should happen(around 9deg BTDC) that the distributor rotor is in a position to actually line up with the metal conductor inside the distributor cap? If the distributor has been put back slightly off position it could work unreliably at best. I also had serious spitting and stuff and timing was the issue. Are you using the original Lumenition? Mine degraded significantly causing significant voltage losses. A new Powerspark/Accuspark unit worked fine, but did have a false start with aforementioned magnetic trigger.
  3. Ah, didn't realise that was an issue. Fair enough, good luck with mods.
  4. Also, depends on the 10V voltage regulator. Check if the fuel gauge also changes in sync with the temperature. I find this the biggest variable in my car. If you are moving at reasonable speed, even in 40+ degrees the fan isn't needed(yes, I have done it), if all else is well.
  5. clearly the rear wiper doesn't's missing!
  6. Based on my recent replacement of servo, albeit on an Elite not Esprit, if your brakes feel weak and you have to push hard to stop, you have a leak/broken servo. I was staggered at the change. I can now do an emergency stop with ease and quite a fierce stop. The pedal still travels a lot however before any real action, but it works!
  7. Never any doubt! We had tools to do a lot of stuff, and we did use the trolley jack, to help an older couple change their tyre. I did do the trip with no brake servo, so legs got an occasional workout, and a fair bit of caution on blind corners! Top drive, have to do in reverse direction next with Dunc's Eclat in good order...and any others who might want to join us.
  8. The Australian gov has seriously upgraded their approach to asbestos especially in classic cars I gather. The law has been there for a while, but now they are enforcing it scrupulously. I gather there are companies in the UK who will certify cars after testing, but goodness knows how much the cost is. I also will be in the position of taking an Elite S2 to Aus sometime in the future, and am very interested in any first hand info with this.
  9. did you run the engine? Some oil will be stored in the filter, so initially being high is likely, until the filter is filled. 5 litres is about right. Manual says 5.95 L dry, 4.83 L refill
  10. For all those wondering, yes, Brake Servo 83-91 Type 50 227mm (Britpart) STC2878 does work, with a little effort. The end result is brilliant, servo works a treat. Getting the old servo out was the biggest problem. Rusty studs meant the first stud took an hour to get it part way undone, but the nylocks just got harder the further I undid the nut. Gave up and tried another, and it came off eventually, but very awkward and tight. So after 3 done, returned to first one, and it eventually snapped, so job done. removing the servo is tight at best, and another thread on here suggested putting plastic between servo and body...good advice, as it was a big effort twisting servo out. Also for removing the nuts inside, previous advice well heeded also, have available 1/4" 13mm deep socket, and lots of extensions. I needed to adapt up to a 1/2" drive to get enough torque to move the nuts. Hopefully yours is easier. So, side by side comparison of servos: Clevis is completely different, and studs are same width apart, just 26mm longer each end. Also, the new servo has M10 rod and clevis. However, the good news is that because the rod is a lot shorter, an adaptor M10/M8 can be used, and also, it just so happens they are readily available because motor bikes use them for mirror adaptors. Giving the old clevis a thread clean helped it go on easily. I also cut approx 3mm off the thread end of the clevis, as after checking measurements carefully, I realised there was no margin for adjustment, so this allowed some wiggle room if needed. I made up an aluminium template, for drilling the holes. 3 holes relatively straightforward, using a right angle drill adaptor. The last one was done at a significant angle, starting with a 3mm drill, and trying to allow for the angle. It worked out pretty well. But when holes drilled, I enlarged to 10mm to give a bit more wiggle room, which was definitely useful. I also ground some of the large middle hole fibreglass at an angle, allowing for easier entry of the new servo. The holes at the top are on the edge of the metal pedlebox. But enough to be solid. The bottom ones are well inside the metal area. The rubber gasket was cut and glued, and the old holes filled with sealant. So, mounting new servo not a big deal, much easier than removing. Doing nuts up a bit fiddly, but a lot easier than removal. The top ones are more of a challenge. I ended up needing no clevis adjustment, as I was pretty careful to get the same length of rod. It worked out to be 136mm from stud side of servo, to the end of the clevis, for my installation. And after a quick road test it was obvious I need to be much more sensitive on the brake pedal. A dramatic change.
  11. Just been round the NC500 in mine, and didn't use the wiper at all. But, the wiper is marginal at best, as I suspect it isn't getting full volts, so painfully slow, even with rainX on it. Didn't get to point of me even bothering to wipe the window, could still see out...but a bit hazy. No muck from under the car at all. I will get it working properly one day, but more important things to bother about.
  12. Do you have a voltmeter? If the starter solenoid clicks, can you measure what voltage you have on the starter motor side of the solenoid contacts. Could be a faulty solenoid not pushing the contactor bar fully home to make proper contact? I would be pretty confident the solenoid was faulty if you can hear it clicking. You might be able to do a DIY repair if it can be pulled apart. If battery was low, the solenoid would chatter, as it provides current to crank, then voltage drops, solenoid drops out, voltage rises, and so on...
  13. Saw one in London, and I agree, they look very cool. Much more interesting than any other SUV I have seen.
  14. I found that the Powerspark/Accuspark module doesn't do static triggering, you need to turn it at about 1rev/sec and it triggers. Annoying to say the least. But, it does work well when you get timing sorted. I basically worked out where the trigger position was on the workbench, looking at the output that drives the coil on an oscilloscope, beyond most peoples DIY equipment unfortunately.
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