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Clive59 - The Lotus Forums Jump to content


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About Clive59

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  • Birthday 04/01/1959

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    Electronics and software design, messing with cars, photography, travelling, music, squash, and lots of other stuff if possible

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  • Name
    Clive Swatton
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    Elite S2.2, Elite S1 502(parked in AUS)
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    Perthshire, Scotland
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  1. From the research I have done, most of them do have the non return valve, and I gather Mann and Fram are at least two that do have them. From what I have read, Mann is OE on a lot of German cars, and has the non-return valve, and is constructed well. Would be interesting to know what source for example SJ or PNM use for their replacement filters.
  2. re hydrogen issues, there is a new technology which uses a membrane to release hydrogen from ammonia, so I presume eliminating those issues, and making refilling and transportation/storage much easier. Agree with @C8RKH, that having hydrogen power makes much more sense, and not having to manufacture batteries that themselves require a lot of energy to manufacture. By products of water and nitrogen sounds pretty good to me.
  3. Not talking of the blue belts Barry, just the bog standard black ones, yes, no doubt expensive if they break, but are there any evidence based reasons why they break any earlier than the other manufacturers ones, if in fact they do? As Andy said, potentially lots of reasons, or none at all.
  4. I saw this doc from Gates, and was wondering if we are being a bit paranoid about timing belts. The same equivalent belt(ok, slightly narrower than Lotus original, but essentially the same) is a Gates T104, which is also used in many Nissan's (300ZX, Maxima, Pathfinder...(many V6 cars), and Mercury in USA, and all the specs say 72months/60Kmiles. This is for the trapezoidal belt. The T249 is for the round sprockets, and is the same interval. Is the Lotus really that much different in wear? Can't see why it should be. Comments? Here is the doc URL:
  5. Still not many. I wonder where all the SORN ones are? Still some there to be dug up. Only 5 V8's on road? Summary by engine: (early Elite's removed) Capacity Licensed SORN Petrol Diesel Other Petrol Diesel Other 1900cc to 1999cc 56 189 2000cc to 2099cc 1 2100cc to 2199cc 12 33 2200cc to 2299cc 1 3500cc to 3599cc 4 10 4500cc to 4749cc 1
  6. The alternator has a negative? I recall mine using the engine as the negative return path. The alternator has a thick(or possibly 2) wire(+ve) and a thin wire for excitation which goes to the dash. Those numbers are very wrong. negative everywhere should be essentially 0ohms resistance from anywhere in the car. Do you have a wiring diagram?
  7. I would think the strap is used because it has fine strands, whereas the cable is less flexible, so it is more likely to fracture and break more quickly than the strap. 170A should be enough I think, but don't forget, the battery is rated at 320cranking amps, so the more current capacity the better.
  8. Don't forget ohms law, V=IR so for example 0.8 R @ 40 A = 32V, which is of course impossible When cranking, say 150A(a guess) you don't want to lose much, but typically the voltage across starter drops to 8V maybe(battery internal resistance plus external resistance(cable and connections), hence why the ignition ballast resistor is shorted by the ignition switch. So, say you don't want more than a volt loss across the cable @150A, you want R = V(1)/I(150) which gives about 7milliohms(.007 ohm), and no 3 1/2 digit multimeter can cope. Hence reason why a very small bit of corrosion can really stuff things up.
  9. A bad earth link would reduce the voltage across the battery, as the alternator would see say 14V, but there would be a voltage drop across the 'bad' earth. The drop would vary with current, but the battery is only there for transient current draws, the alternator should supply the current normally. So in equilibrium, when battery charged and alternator supplying the load current, any bad earth between battery and alternator will not be evident and the voltage across the battery will be essentially the same as the alternator. Short answer, voltage seems too high = faulty regulator. But, have you verified your multimeter? It is possible it is faulty. Do you have another to compare with?
  10. Car charging systems are often pretty basic, but if the voltage across the battery is >14.7 then you probably have a problem as said above. Extended periods of charging at 14.7V will cause gas(hydrogen) to be created, and the battery could also get hot, if the charging source/alternator can supply lots of current. Usually, once the voltage has reached 14.6-7 V then the charger should taper off to about 13.7, which is perfectly safe for extended periods. Sometimes, if a battery has been severely discharged, and has been jump-started. it may not hold charge until it has gone through a proper charge cycle. I had this recently on a battery, and it had been dead flat, and jump started, but after about half an hour I stopped the car and it was still almost completely flat still, so had clearly gone into a high internal resistance condition. I charged it at a constant 1 amp for about 36-40 hours(it was a 36Ahr battery I think), where it finally tapered off to about 100mA at 14.6V, then I reduced to 13.7V for a few hours to fully charge it. Now it seems fine. (Admittedly, I have a power supply which allows for constant voltage/constant current operation, so a bit lucky I guess). But any decent battery charger should do that sort of thing automagically, possibly allowing for variable current charging. Not sure where the voltage meter takes its 0V/GND from, but when there is current flowing, as you had with fans and lights on, it doesn't take much resistance to cause a variation in earth voltage around the car of a few volts. Say 20A was flowing with lights and heater fan, then only 0.1ohm will cause a 2V drop. (V=IR). Your volt gauge may just be reading 2V low, as it has roughly 2V difference for both high and low current. So, that is possibly a calibration issue. The dimming of hazard lights will be an earth resistance issue, but may not be possible to pick up easily with a normal multimeter, as low resistance measurements are difficult, and you may be only looking for 1 or 2 ohms or even less. But worth a go. And finally, the alternator regulator may be damaged. I don't think it should put out over 15V for any length of time, certainly if a battery isn't to be damaged. But I am not an automotive engineer, so it may be normal for some instances, but I haven't seen it when working on my cars. Good luck with the detective work.
  11. This might help, there is a copy on this forum somewhere, but in summary, seems 100-110Hz is about right. 9XX Timing Belt Tension - Manual Notes - JH to Turbo.docx
  12. Your fuel pressure is way too high for carbs, should be 3-4psi(0.25bar approx). Electronic ignition is very easy. No power increase but easier starting and smoother. Excel HC had different tri-jet carbs as well. Good luck with your project
  13. John, if you go into the Play Store app on your phone, you can get it there. If you haven't used Play Store before, do so. It has all sorts of good stuff(and lots of crap of course). If you just search the apps on your phone you will find it.
  14. I find just plucking the belt by hand works fine, as long as you have finger nails I guess. The Carbon Drive software seems very good at picking up even short plucks. I suspect it has a very sharp filter around the desired frequency range.
  15. I saw an old post of yours and Geert, which was interesting. is 114Hz still what you set your trap belt to? And assume that +/-10% gives plenty of latitude? I checked mine and it seems to run fine around 110Hz, any more and I got some whine.
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