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Clive59 - The Lotus Forums Jump to content


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About Clive59

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  • Birthday 04/01/1959

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  • Name
    Clive Swatton
  • Car
    Elite S2.2, Elite S1 502(parked in AUS)
  • Location
    Perthshire, Scotland

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  1. I have had similar and pretty common I believe. I used epoxy rather than fibreglass in structural spots, but others may have differing opinions. Epoxy bonds to polyester resin but generally not the reverse, with some exceptions possible. I used the West System epoxy, well regarded in marine use, but fine for cars too. There are plenty of resources and videos on repair methods if you are new to this stuff. Good luck with it. But, you probably have saggy springs, which is quite common at this age. Not a huge problem, readily available, but be careful, and you need spring compressors that can cope with very small coil gaps, but I have not done them on mine. The rears can be done without spring compressors quite easily.
  2. There was a thread on here recently which showed a neat way to remove the seal in-situ, drilling into the seal, and using a couple self tappers I think. Have to search for it though.
  3. If you have a 3ohm coil, the pink resistive wire should not be required, as the coil is 12V. But, having effectively less current, not more, through the wire should not make it smoke. Do check the coil resistance, it sounds very strange that it smoked.
  4. From Engine number 15683 all engines fitted with NGK leads and BPR6ES plugs. Book doesn't say if resistive leads. The spark plug has an internal 5K resistor, so would assume leads would be lowish resistance. I seem to recall mine were around 2-3K and using BPR6ES plugs
  5. So pleased John, a long wait but looks like you have cracked it. Looking forward to some new additions!
  6. We did it last year, an Elite S2, Excel, and a...Jag(the Eclat diff broke in Edinburgh) And yes, Applecross no problem. Didn't bottom out anywhere that I an recall.
  7. Engine no. is near bulkhead, top of flywheel area, might be hard to see with all the corrosion you have, but a bit of cleaning should help.
  8. One drives the fans, and the other is for headlight pods. I think. Should be easy enough to follow wires. The dash bulbs should last for ever, not stressed at all, usually connectors fail/corrode
  9. Is it really? It is more bulletproof surely, but not quite as good in execution I have heard. Would like to hear from those that have both or have driven both to compare notes.
  10. Definitely interested. Is this a limited run? Or to be available as a new(old) design?
  11. On my 502 lives above the fuel pump, slides on to a support screwed into the body. Don't think I have a photo unfortunately.
  12. My fans come on just past the middle(90deg) point. Also depends on if the 10V regulator is working properly.
  13. Have one in my Elite S2.2, and it fits exactly in the spot, and works just fine. Have had it for a year or so I think.
  14. Depends on car, but probably more reliable and cheaper for new
  15. If you want to ensure max volts at coil, put a relay in. However, for practical purposes it is not a problem, as current through switch is not too high, so negligible voltage loss. Voltage on cranking will be around 9-10V, depending on battery condition.
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