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Clive59 - The Lotus Forums Jump to content


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About Clive59

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  • Birthday 04/01/1959

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  • Name
    Clive Swatton
  • Car
    Elite S2.2, Elite S1 502(parked in AUS)
  • Location
    Perthshire, Scotland

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  1. I found superglue works a treat on rubber actually. Did my seals and never a problem. Just to add to confusion.
  2. know the feeling, I am same height, and can be difficult. Good to see it's of use. Thanks for that, well done.
  3. Here is an interesting read: And here: I now use Castrol Edge Supercar Engine 10W-60 as the current equivalent(and quoted in Jaques post as such from Castrol), available easily, and reasonably, if you search a bit, and I noticed better warm idle pressure compared to the Classic mineral 20W50 used before.
  4. Those small leds have probably got a built in constant current circuit, and a small bridge for either polarity. They probably won't be dimmable either, at least not with variable volts. unintended SCR's are all too numerous!
  5. Just came across this while looking for something else, and thought it might help some of you. Some wires do seem to match the circuit diagram to various degrees of accuracy Not sure where I got it. All credit to original poster, I just did a copy and paste Electrical Lucas wire description.docx
  6. My 912 is around 10 deg at idle. max advance by 2500rpm I seem to recall, 20 deg at 100rpm sounds way too much.
  7. improving_your_lotus.pdf Is this the one?
  8. I think these are possibly the best of what is currently available. I bought a couple last year, and quite happy with them. I did find some V-rated ones a few years ago, Goodride or something? But they were very slippery, and not impressed. Cheapest source I could quickly find was here: The cheaper ones were thirty five pounds odd, but I guess you get what you pay for. Kumho Ecsta HS51 205/60 R14 88H
  9. check the filter/gauze inside the fuel tank. Mine got all gummed up, and I had poor flow. Showed up when I was on motorway, doing 60 for a few secs and fuel starvation happened. I just got rid of the gauze. you should have no more than 3-4psi for an N/A engine
  10. did you do it yourself? I have a red one to paint one day too, so looking for tips and tricks when I do get to it. Looking good though.
  11. Me too, if there are any extras.
  12. Clive59

    Digital clock

    never seen that before Pete, only the analogue and the digital from S2, which is completely different. I do like the analogue one, looks very stylish, but I am impressed how accurate the digital one is.
  13. I don't think that is the reason Mike, effectively having a 6V coil means when cranking, which may drop voltage to 9volts or even less if battery a bit flat, will still give you a full energy spark, so hopefully the engine will start. If the ignition is on, and the points are closed, yes, current will flow, and heat up the coil, but not wear the points. Switching an inductive load like a coil will cause large back emf, and sparking, which wears the points, whether 6 or 12V, but this is contained by the capacitor across the points. Hence the capacitor isn't required when changing to an electronic system.
  14. This works perfectly well on my 912 engine ELite. Designed as a modern replacement for the SU pump Also, I had fuel starvation when at speed for a while, and it was the filter inside the fuel tank. Just another thing to think about. Good luck with it
  15. The ballast resistor is usually a pink wire, nichrome or similar, single strand and thick, and is connected between the ignition switch and the coil. When cranking, the ignition switch turns on starter solenoid, and bypasses the pink wire also. You will see the ballast on wiring diagram as a resistor between ignition switch and coil. The electronic ignition should work happily on ballasted supply anyway, so not critical that it gets 12V. Timing is critical when new ignition put in, A few degrees makes big difference.
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