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Clive59

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Everything posted by Clive59

  1. Hi Dan, Yeah, one of those things you may or not use. Happy to relieve you of it, as a reference, SJ has them for £20, but let me know what you think is fair, and some postage of course. I tried to send you a PM, but apparently you can't receive messages? cheers, Clive My 502 has foam just on top surface between chassis and shell.
  2. Nup, quite the opposite, very conservative, right leaning, with a Pentacostal PM. The States are a variety of Labor and Liberal(read Tory), Victoria being Labor and the major lockdown state.
  3. Do you need it Dan?, mine is badly bent and is on the list of things to fix, if it's just doing nothing!
  4. That is a fantastic bit of history, and a nicely written one. Love the descriptive words, really paints a picture. Thanks for posting.
  5. Des Hammill How to build and power tune weber and dellorto DCOe, DCO/SP & DHLA carburettors is very useful. from velocebooks.com and floats are critical, set once, then again and again. worth the effort. good luck.
  6. It is a Perspective article (available from within the extract page), I assume it is meant to be something digestible by a wider audience than focused experts. Intended for a professional audience, eg: doctors, of whom one showed it to me. It is peer reviewed, so should pass the BS filter It references 20 papers, which are based on science. If you choose to ignore @mg4lotus, fine, but others may have differing opinions.
  7. So is that supposed to help? The NIH isn't a crackpot conspiracy site, it is a US government funded organisation to the tune of over $40 billion. My original statement holds I believe.
  8. Gold, was it published on April 1st?
  9. This doesn't encourage me. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33113270/
  10. Those magnets look neat, did you make the brackets and heatshrink magnets to them?
  11. that just discriminates the colour blind!
  12. Just had a look at every schematic variant I have, and can't find a WU(white/Blue) wire anywhere. There are some UW wires with headlights.
  13. Does this help? Two fans and aircon. One may be Federal, but other definitely Non-Federal, which should work
  14. As a sanity check, I always make sure the ticking of the fuel pump stops when I first start the car, only takes a few seconds. I have had the occurrence of a sticky needle valve cause one of the carbs to leak fuel. It only happened once, and a simple tap on the carb fixed it, and never again.
  15. Interested to see if they make a difference. Well done, good result!
  16. That would imply that they fail the EMC directive, which is very bad, and should be reported, as they can interfere with other equipment. Fluorescent lighting is actually one of the biggest problems for EMC compliance. A test house I went to ages ago said he gets so much equipment from lighting importers to get him to try to make them comply. One of the reasons you see ferrite filters on power leads is that it is a last resort to make equipment comply. If it was designed properly it generally shouldn't need them.
  17. Less than 60Vdc is the limit for SELV or Safety Extra Low Voltage and is deemed completely safe for humans. Doesn't mean a lot of current can't flow with subsequent sparks and danger around petrol fumes though.
  18. Clive59

    Marmite

    Vegemite on buttered toast for me. Marmite...never could quite get the hang of Marmite
  19. Good to see some nice drawings. Takes me back to my old school tech drawing days.
  20. ummm, shocking think you might be ok, just don't short and blow a fuse
  21. yes,that should be as good as you can get. 100N( same as 0.1uF) is a good start. Tin the connector pins with solder first, let it flow nicely, let it cool a bit, and then solder on the capacitor. If you have a temperature controlled iron, I suggest winding the temperature up to 400-450degC and doing the tinning part as quickly as possible but not too quick(or you will not allow solder to properly whet and flow on the metal) , so you can minimise melting the plastic. Then you can quickly solder the capacitor to the tinned part and avoid any melted plastic, adding a little solder to the iron tip for effective heat flow. Apologies if you know all this, but might be helpful. Good luck, and of course, it may not work, but hopefully it does!
  22. between +ve and GND/0V yes. I presume the lamps are the bayonet type, so get the ground side of cap as close to the bayonet socket as possible, and the power side on the (presumably) spade connctor, not the push on side if possible. Are you any good with a soldering iron?
  23. Put some capacitors, as close to the bulb as possible, within millimetres. The best type of parts to use are SMD(Surface Mount Device) but realistically, not sure how practical that is for your car. It would be really neat if you could somehow embed into the base of the bulb, and join/solder to the pins. But normal leaded parts really close to socket could work. Fun to be had. Take pics and show us how it goes. Or just go and buy the ones @CarBuffrecommends if time is precious. Good luck
  24. and/or suppression capacitors. Values in the 1nF - 100nF range typical, very near the source, can provide a nice low impedance path to ground, which is what you need. RF chokes quite often only mask the underlying problem, and are not generally the solution of choice. Did this noise problem essentially occur only after you put led lights in?
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