Squidward

2010 NA owner here. Ready to buy a bolt on kit. Please let me know!

heavy all the time (cold or hot) or only after the car has warmed up?

1. real brake vents on front bumper. 2. relocate engine bay blower to unblock RH side vent. 3. exterior trunk key latch. 4. relocate phone mic to steering column. 5. add seat belt loops to seats 6. replace seat back adjustment knob with latch lever instead. 7. revise rear ventilation hose with one that won't peel over time.

+1 on Justin182's recommendation.. Additionally on top of cleaning the Throttle Body, clean the MAF sensor as well. Both are very easy to do.. I had idling issues (near stalling) as well and it went away after I did these two things. good luck and let us know if it helped.

Nice feedback, Ritchie. I had a chance to test drive the 2013 IPS S a couple months back and I'll be honest--Nothing was significant enough for me to want it over my 2010 NA. While there was plenty of little changes that do add up to an overall improved build and anyone going forward would be foolish to choose a 2010 LE over a 2013, unless of course they had an issue with the price difference. For me it would take a substantial improvement in performance or build quality for me to warrant spending another ~$80,000 on a new 2013 S (or IPS S). Plus I don't think I would get much for my current car-- perhaps $45K at best (considering the mileage). It works out to a $35K out-of-pocket for what I genuinely feel are nominal improvements at best, at least for my uses. Even with the supercharger it made very little difference on my grin factor. (I honestly couldn't tell the difference, granted my current car has a few upgrades of its own, being the Radium CAI and a straight pipe setup). I think I might on the track, but on legal roads, they both have plenty of pep to keep me smiling

yeah it's a bit of a PITA with that damn anti-sway bar there. I managed to remove my 3rd cat and NA silencer in one piece.. saved some time, but DOES require a bit of finessing to get it out. Doing the reverse is considerably harder, so I would recommend installing the decat pipe first, then the sports exhaust. By far the easiest solution is going with a straight pipe. Took me literally 30 minutes from start to finish.

270mA is huge. If our manuals say the car will sit idle for over 4 weeks @ 27-32mA, then a 270mA draw would seem to support my assertion that the battery will be weakened after only a few days. Per the Lotus Evora Service Notes: Quiescent Drain With a fully charged battery, a car with no aftermarket electrical equipment fitted, all electrics switched off, and the alarm system either armed or disarmed, will have a quiescent current drain of between 27 - 32 mA dependent on audio and sat. nav. options. Under normal conditions, this should allow a park period of over four weeks before starting difficulties may be encountered. If current drain is found to significantly exceed specification, the cause must be established by isolating components (e.g. at fusebox) and rectifying faults as necessary.

ic. so I take it that it means it is more robust? or more versatile in racing applications of the car?

what is so good about this. not sure I understand the point if this. please explain. thx

andy trust me you have it good. I had my exactly the same work on my car and while the repair was successful, the reassembly was not. In fact if any of you saw it you'd think it was a joke, but it was not. it was a nightmare. -seatbacks scuffed to hell (backside) -scrape in leather door sill -weather seals poorly installed: seal jutting out where the glass seam lines meet the vent/sail panel, seal along the b-pillar not straight and kinked, seal along top of door opening jutting out. -gas lid had a gap when closed -headliner smudged with grease marks -leather shift boot was loose (they had also fixed my brake handle because it was nearly impossible to disengage - paint scratches on rear left fender -damage on plastic finisher (the black panel between the diffuser and bumper) -cracked ventilation panel -misaligned rear spoiler (it was easily adjusted by me turning rubber stops) -uneven body seams: door seam at b-pillar was 3/4 cm on driver side and 1/4 cm on the passenger side. seam between rear clam and bumper was 1/2cm on passenger side and touching on the driver side -various bolts missing -stripped bolt hole that secured the cargo net -Damaged car battery (they let drain completely and just charged it up when they delivered the car. the car had trouble starting after just a week and a half from getting the car back. Turns out the battery voltage measured 11.6V. I had to charge it on a weekly basis thereafter for months until my next visit. here are just some of the photos: I brought these things up and they were eventually fixed by the dealership, but it cost me another couple of days off work. While the tech no longer works there, I don't blame him as he was under immense pressure to get the repair done. I witness this myself listening to the interactions between him and the service manager. The tech told me it was the first time he worked on an Evora so I figured he probably needed more time to do a good job. He did an awesome job on the clutch but everything else went to sh*t when emhe was rushed. The service manager never fully inspected the car. he just handed me the keys after parking it in front for me to pick up.

if you want to change out all the bulbs to LED, you'll need eight bulbs--six 42mm bulbs for interior and trunk, and two 37mm bulbs for the license plate lights. I bought mine all from Amazon. 6 x 42mm High Power 6 SMD LED Festoon Dome Bulb White 12 Volt DC 2 x 37mm High Power 6 SMD LED Festoon Dome Bulb White 12 Volt DC To avoid battery issues, I recommend you buy a deep cycle battery.. These are designed to be drained repeatedly without damage. They are more expensive but worth the peace of mind. If you want to go light weight, a few owners have used the 36AH Shorai LiFEP04 lightweight batteries with success.

I don't recall the light beads being as bright as shown in the photos...we're there modifications made? or is it a quality of the camera? in fact I can barely see mine in daylight and at night it's rather dim.

I have had mine replaced along with a few other fellow owners I know on the other forum. It's impossible to determine what the prevalence is for this problem based on such a small sampling. I do believe the stock Varta isn't a very good battery to begin with but I don't know if that's an accurate statement, nor is the presumption some of us have made that the Evora has a higher than usual draw on the battery at rest. (No one has gotten around to actually measuring the load on the battery.) Anyway one theory I have is that many of our batteries have become damaged from being overdrawn during extended repair visits. I don't know what the procedures are if there are any to ensure this doesn't happen to a customer's battery but it's definitely a possibility. My battery was replaced with an Interstate MTP-91 battery and it has fared better after two days sitting idle although startup is still noticeably weak. I live in a warm climate too (Southern California) so I imagine in very cold climates there really wouldn't be enough cranking power to start the car after 2-3 days of non-use.

afaik, only pre-MY12. (http://ebookbrowse.com/54817-9823-sb-2011-29-evora-clutch-pipe-insulation-pdf-d468099173)

Mel, get a Shorai battery - 4.96lbs, 36ah battery with 540CCA. A few owners have run with them long term with no issues. Alternatively if you need more reserve power you can buy two and parallel them for 72AH (equivalent to the stock lead acid rating) and over 1000 CCA at your disposal. I assume the rear louvres will save you at least another 25 lbs. I have one made of GRP and it's really light but imagine CF one would be even lighter!