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Squidward

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Everything posted by Squidward

  1. 2010 NA owner here. Ready to buy a bolt on kit. Please let me know!
  2. heavy all the time (cold or hot) or only after the car has warmed up?
  3. 1. real brake vents on front bumper. 2. relocate engine bay blower to unblock RH side vent. 3. exterior trunk key latch. 4. relocate phone mic to steering column. 5. add seat belt loops to seats 6. replace seat back adjustment knob with latch lever instead. 7. revise rear ventilation hose with one that won't peel over time.
  4. +1 on Justin182's recommendation.. Additionally on top of cleaning the Throttle Body, clean the MAF sensor as well. Both are very easy to do.. I had idling issues (near stalling) as well and it went away after I did these two things. good luck and let us know if it helped.
  5. Nice feedback, Ritchie. I had a chance to test drive the 2013 IPS S a couple months back and I'll be honest--Nothing was significant enough for me to want it over my 2010 NA. While there was plenty of little changes that do add up to an overall improved build and anyone going forward would be foolish to choose a 2010 LE over a 2013, unless of course they had an issue with the price difference. For me it would take a substantial improvement in performance or build quality for me to warrant spending another ~$80,000 on a new 2013 S (or IPS S). Plus I don't think I would get much for my cu
  6. yeah it's a bit of a PITA with that damn anti-sway bar there. I managed to remove my 3rd cat and NA silencer in one piece.. saved some time, but DOES require a bit of finessing to get it out. Doing the reverse is considerably harder, so I would recommend installing the decat pipe first, then the sports exhaust. By far the easiest solution is going with a straight pipe. Took me literally 30 minutes from start to finish.
  7. 270mA is huge. If our manuals say the car will sit idle for over 4 weeks @ 27-32mA, then a 270mA draw would seem to support my assertion that the battery will be weakened after only a few days. Per the Lotus Evora Service Notes: Quiescent Drain With a fully charged battery, a car with no aftermarket electrical equipment fitted, all electrics switched off, and the alarm system either armed or disarmed, will have a quiescent current drain of between 27 - 32 mA dependent on audio and sat. nav. options. Under normal conditions, this should allow a park period of over four weeks before start
  8. ic. so I take it that it means it is more robust? or more versatile in racing applications of the car?
  9. what is so good about this. not sure I understand the point if this. please explain. thx
  10. andy trust me you have it good. I had my exactly the same work on my car and while the repair was successful, the reassembly was not. In fact if any of you saw it you'd think it was a joke, but it was not. it was a nightmare. -seatbacks scuffed to hell (backside) -scrape in leather door sill -weather seals poorly installed: seal jutting out where the glass seam lines meet the vent/sail panel, seal along the b-pillar not straight and kinked, seal along top of door opening jutting out. -gas lid had a gap when closed -headliner smudged with grease marks -leather shift boot was loose (they
  11. if you want to change out all the bulbs to LED, you'll need eight bulbs--six 42mm bulbs for interior and trunk, and two 37mm bulbs for the license plate lights. I bought mine all from Amazon. 6 x 42mm High Power 6 SMD LED Festoon Dome Bulb White 12 Volt DC 2 x 37mm High Power 6 SMD LED Festoon Dome Bulb White 12 Volt DC To avoid battery issues, I recommend you buy a deep cycle battery.. These are designed to be drained repeatedly without damage. They are more expensive but worth the peace of mind. If you want to go light weight, a few owners have used the 36AH Shorai LiF
  12. I don't recall the light beads being as bright as shown in the photos...we're there modifications made? or is it a quality of the camera? in fact I can barely see mine in daylight and at night it's rather dim.
  13. I have had mine replaced along with a few other fellow owners I know on the other forum. It's impossible to determine what the prevalence is for this problem based on such a small sampling. I do believe the stock Varta isn't a very good battery to begin with but I don't know if that's an accurate statement, nor is the presumption some of us have made that the Evora has a higher than usual draw on the battery at rest. (No one has gotten around to actually measuring the load on the battery.) Anyway one theory I have is that many of our batteries have become damaged from being overdrawn duri
  14. afaik, only pre-MY12. (http://ebookbrowse.com/54817-9823-sb-2011-29-evora-clutch-pipe-insulation-pdf-d468099173)
  15. Mel, get a Shorai battery - 4.96lbs, 36ah battery with 540CCA. A few owners have run with them long term with no issues. Alternatively if you need more reserve power you can buy two and parallel them for 72AH (equivalent to the stock lead acid rating) and over 1000 CCA at your disposal. I assume the rear louvres will save you at least another 25 lbs. I have one made of GRP and it's really light but imagine CF one would be even lighter!
  16. when you get your replacements for the rear chrome bezels, have them clearcoated or paint them with chrome paint. The chrome job on it is pretty pathetic.
  17. well true but I think the difference is that this part only accounts for 1/3 of a complete system, as the other two cats do the majority of the work, whereas typical cats are a single unit and therefore contain two or three times more of the precious metal than the Evora's 3rd cat alone. I suspect they made it *just* big enough to meet the minimum federal requirements. Here in the states, catalytic converters are the new car stereos..
  18. Squidward

    Up your S

    what's 'the playground'?
  19. love your car man... what's the part number for the leather for pull covers? It's not on the outdated parts list I've got. btw are your barge boards the ones by lotus (wood) or are they CF copies?
  20. I imagine the elimination of the catalyst material being a significant savings for them on each car. Catalytic converters aren't cheap, they're usually close to $2000 (and often more) on most new cars, given the secret ingredient is platinum.
  21. yikes, that's some serious rust!!! I thought the chassis was made out of aluminum?
  22. You mean this lovely car??!http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/motoringvideo/article9727841.ece#ooid=5qYmRnNzpeoBXxdxeHKEApxv4UFC0eee This was my case as well. Throwout bearing was at fault. It would get stuck and release abruptly, affecting the synchro between 1st and 2nd, resulting in the car jerking, and in turn caused my entire body(including my foot) to lunge forward in my seat, and consequently slamming on the accelerator, which would then slamming me back in my seat each time almost like getting punched in the back. Man, it was not fun to experience and my wife named the car "Whipl
  23. that's good to know, guys... I didn't think so and assume it's because the 3rd cat (aka 'main' cat) has no oxygen sensor and therefore should have absolutely no influence on the operation of the engine, correct?
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