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RV_ABZ

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Everything posted by RV_ABZ

  1. My oil pressure gauge is always showing very low, but so was the gauge of an other S4s I tested prior to buying the red one. Cold engine, the gauge goes just slighlty over the 1st mark, warm engine, the gauge sits just above the red mark, sometimes just in it. I understand this is a common/"normal" thing. You may find that the water temp gauge is giving incorrect readings as well and it's apparently a common fault due to defective gauge sender/sensor (different from water temp ECU sensor). A new gauge sensor fixes this, I'm yet to fit the new unit I bought off SJ. The "snow" button is not exactly a reset button: it's an override button meant to avoid windows refusing to move up because of frost. If, for any reason, a window does not move up (obstructed window, frosty window or simply stuck window), you can force the window to move up by pressing the snow button whilst pressing the EW switch. My passenger window gets stuck whilst fully opened 90% of the time and I either have to use the "snow" button or press the EW switch a few times before the one-touch facility will work again. The window has a slight forward move towards the end when being opened and it simply gets stuck when trying to move it up again. Annoying grimlin but I can live with it....
  2. Just left you a PM. I think both our S4s must have ben registered at the same time, interesting...
  3. Hi all, I've received my new T° gauge sender unit (A082N4040F), but where does it fit? The parts manual does not show it anywhere, it just lists it along the gauge in section 17.07A. Any clue? Thanks, Hervé
  4. SJ SportsCars have the Temp sender for the gauge (A082N4040F for £23). What's the rush for the MOT by the way? Do you feel it's ready to cruise on the roads?
  5. I take it out as often as I can (a lot in early July and these last 2 days). It's just great and a complete different driving experience. I now fully master the fitting in the dedicated bag and at the bottom of the boot.
  6. Careful with the dash gauge reading for water T° because there are 2 sensors: one for the ECU and one for the gauge. I have found out that the its a common fault for the latter to go duff and give false info to the dash gauge. I've just received a new T° gauge sensor to rectify this problem on my S4s because the gauge never show T° beyond 70 and sits at 50° most of the time. It's far better to read the coolant T° from the ECU via Freescan to get an accurate value.
  7. Hi Rich, 'been following up this interesting post for a while. My limited knowledge can confirm that an initial idle at 2000 rpm, engine cold, which goes down after a a few minutes to stabalise around 900-950 is Ok. At cold start, mine idles at 2000rpm for a 3 or 4 minutes then drops to about 1200rpm and gradually idles down to settle at about 980 once warmed. I think the expected norm is 950 +/- 50rpm. If the A/C is on, you may experience a bit of stumble, but the engine should not stall. Download Freescan and EspritMon tools and get an ALDL cable, you'll then be able to reset parameters of the ECU (such as idle speed, IAC or BLM) as well as read ECU codes. Good luck with the rest and the MOT. Hervé
  8. Garage Thierry Julien 9 rue de la France Combattante 29200 Brest Tel: 02 98 02 22 17 It's a bit far from Angers but definitely a place to recommend for all French far westerners.
  9. Garage Thierry Julien, named after its owner. Based in Brest, Brittany. It's a small general mechanical outfit (not a dealership and no web site I'm afraid) but the owner is a Lotus lover who has specialised in servicing, repairing and restoring Lotus cars. He owns 2 Excel (a white 1982 model awaiting restoration and a 1992 green SE model currently being restored) as well as a Cat 7. He previously owned an Esprit S3 Turbo. He was highly recommended to me by several long term members of the Club Lotus France and happened to be 15miles away from my home!!! I could not believe my luck. His garage has also become the hanging place for local Lotus owners (most of them members of the Club Lotus France, which I've joined) who own Excel, Cat 7, Elise or Esprit. It was a very nice surprise to hear of Thiery's garage, so close by and with half a dozen fellow Lotus owners meeting there once or twice a week.
  10. Well, it turned out to be a small thing: a crew/bolt went loose on the water pump. When it fell, it blocked the water pump and the belt which simply ruptured. My little local Lotus specialist repaired that in the space of 1hr! Nothing needed replacement other than the belt and the coolant fluid. Back on the road for under 100€.
  11. You're right Wookie, I do not know the exact cause and source of failure yet, so I spoke against UKSC out of anger and upset. This breakdown happened after I found out a couple of cheap & nasty repairs done by them on the car for which I am trying to keep philosophical, but when this sort of things happens, it's difficult to stay calm. I'm hoping to get the car on a trailer to my Lotus specialist today and then, he'll find out what it was.
  12. Thanks for confirming what I thought Jon: when I heard the belt noise, I immediately felt heavy steering and I thought I had lost the power steering belt. I did not know it was also controlling the water pump, but that became clear quite rapidly! I think it'll be an easy fix.
  13. It had to arrive I suppose... Yesterday evening, at the entrance of a roundabout just after taking the exit of a dual carriageway following a 40miles drive, I heard an awful noise of slipping/breaking belt in the engine bay. I crossed the roundabout and stopped right afterwards on the edge of the road in a big cloud of white smoke coming from the rear. When I got out of the car, there was a strong smell of hot/burning rubber. I opened the the engine bay and I was relieved to see the cambelt in its place and turning quite happily. The other belt on the right was also in its place and turning happily. I drove another 100m to stop in a suitable parking space and right before I stopped, the coolant warning lit on the dashboard and the T° gauge went all the way to the right. Ok, so I must have lost the water pump belt. I switched off the engine and got out of the car to find the coolant fluid dripping out of the rear of the car on the left side. My wife was following us in her car so we were not left stranded on the road side, but the S4s had to be left where it was. Naturally, this had to happen on a Saturday night! Well, I guess trailing to the lotus specialist will have to be arranged on Monday. I was vey lucky to find one about 15miles from home, through the Club lotus France! I'm quite cheesed off with (the infamous?) Mr Clugston who had claimed all the belts had been changed when he serviced the car less than 3k miles ago. I'm sure a water pump belt does last more than 3000 miles. I'll have to have a few words with him... I just hope it's nothing more serious than the water pump belt to replace and a renewal of coolant fluid. However, I fear that P. Clugston is not to be trusted with anything he says and that a complete change of fluids + belts is now in order to be on the safe side of things. I'm afraid I find at my own expense that what was said about the owner of UK Sports Cars is true: cowboy, not to be trusted. Cheers Hervé
  14. Hi folks, I re-open this post as I have the same issue. EspritMon (many many thanks Erik) identified the problem to cause 62: low accumulator pressure. I've done a few tests to try and establish whether it is acumulator related or pressure switch related, it always seems difficult to say. I've repeated the tests several times to see if there was a pattern: 1) pump the brake pedal 40 times with ignition off to de-pressurise the system 2) put ignition back on 3) there is a "bzzz" sound for approximately 25s, which I guess is the pump filling up the accumlulator 4) Once system is re-pressurised, press on the brake pedal a few times -> the result is always the same every time: after a couple of pushes on the pedal, the pump can be heard going off. Then after 3 more pushes, the pump goes off again and the the ABS light blinks. From there on, the pump goes off every 3 pushes on the brake pedal. At one point, after system was depressurised and ignition was put back on, the pump was only heard after 8 pushes. Then it went off again after 2 pushes and, at the same time, I heard 2 or 3 "click-clank" noises (like a relais going on and off repeatedly) and the ABS light went blinking. Having read many many posts on this isue and most notably this particular one, I was thinking of starting by changing the pressure switch. If that does not fix the issue, I'd change the accumulator. One question though: what is the correct part to buy and where to find it? I've seen a post that mentions "ACDelco 25533700 Brake Pressure Warning Switch" and another one that mentions "88927272 Brake Master Cylinder Proportioning Valve". I have also seen "GM 88927270/AC Delco 18M873 Brake pressure warning switch". Which is right? I don't want to get the wrong part or waste time looking for parts that are no longer in supply... Thanks Hervé
  15. Hi folks, 'been playing up a bit with Freescan. My "Check engine" warning litting up intermittently for 30-40sec appears to be due to an O2 sensor fault: I thought my sensor was possibly faulty, but after clearing the alarm with Freescan I noticed the following behaviour: - after starting from cold, if I let the engine warm up long enough to regular operating T° (80-90°C), the alarm will not be triggered once I drive - after starting from cold, if I drive off after a few minutes before the engine has well warmed up, the alarm will systematically trigger Is this normal or should I consider replacing the O2 sensor? Freescan was also reporting BLM with a value in excess of 150, so I reset this since the manual indicated an ideal value of 128 or a bit less. Since resetting it, the parameter is always around 128 and the car appears to run smoother. It was not running bad, but I had an occasionnal sputter after 2500rpm when accelerating. I thought this was the famous "3k stumble". However, his has now disappeared and I don't notice anything anymore. I've taken a few samples and here is what it gives: Any comments or suggestions? Hervé
  16. Very useful post, I think I now know why my water T° gauge is always low, whereas the T° check with Freescan was Ok. I need to order one of those T° sensor for the dash gauge. Thanks GKP.
  17. Hi guys, does it suit any 4cyl fitted with an ECM (i.e. Delco injection, not Bosch)?
  18. Bravo, those cars must have turned a few heads many times! Good to sse great British hospitality in Frogland! And congratulations to the film maker. Very impressive, but where's the white Esprit?
  19. Is your conversion based on convex or concave headlights (my low-beam lights are concave with convex lamps for the high beam)?
  20. Looks like these would do and they're much cheaper than those offered by PUK. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html
  21. Would these do? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Headlamp-4000-wagner-sealed-low-beam-5-1-2-3-prong-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53e0996ea1QQitemZ360250437281QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Mike Taylor of Lotusbits told me that RHD headlamps were not sealed and I have not checked mine (I'm away from home this week). I've inquired at PUK too, but Marcus came back with a Ouch! quote (139€/unit)... Cheers Hervé
  22. On doing a bit of further research on the Net (which I should have done in the 1st place), I've found that low & high beams would be identical units: Wagner 4000. I anyone can confirm, I'll then go and buy some.
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