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Posts posted by wardy

  1. Hi Shaun

    I recentley had engine overhaul done by South West lotus. (Full check over, cam belts ,tensioners.oil seals.clutch,turbo refurb ect).

    Very nice people, Very good job.

    Phil recommened useing Evans waterless. As I was replacing the coolant hoses with a set of silicone I was able to purge the system completly with compressed air when the old pipes were removed.

    I have since done about 400 miles in lots of traffic conditions including queueing in the recant warm weather. The temp never went above 85degs and all looks ok.

    Chris Ward


     I live close-- Horwich

  2. Hi Dave

    Thanks for the info and pics.


    I made lots of enquiries and it seems that both master and slave cylinders are " specials" for Lotus.


    Having just removed the engine and box to attend to all those engine out jobs over the winter including fitting a new helix autosport clutch,I decided to go the whole way and fit both new cylinders ( ££££)


    They are available from SJ 

    Chris Ward

  3. Hi Gents

    Re the whine / singing.

    Recently I replaced the origional oil cooler pipes on my 2002 car, as one had a leak on a crimped joint.

    Good quality armoured hoses were made up at a local company.

    I fitted them through the backbone on the chassis as origional.

    Now when the engine is hot I get the whine / singing, which is worst at the r/h oil cooler.

    After reading about the possible cause being the "heavier" pipes coming into contact with the chassis I have a question.

    Has anyone routed the pipes outside of the chassis?

    There seems to be enough clearance to the ground and the pipes could be fixed with rubber clips to to the body floor adjacent to the chassis.

    This would isolate the oil cooler pipes from the chassis completely.

    Your thoughts please.

       Chris Ward

  4. Hi Gunter, Wayne and Dave

     More about the fault code P0128 that lotus do not use.

    Thanks for your input with my problem. Dave suggested looking at " Lotus Talk .com ". On this site There is a link which gives more info.The code is used by many manufactures to indicate possible problem with the thermostat.

    The ECU takes info from several things to determine this. One of the inputs is the IAT sensor.

    At this time I had not checked this system. From the Lotus workshop book I got the resistance values for the sensor. When I checked this the results did not seem correct. I removed the sensor for closer inspection. The sensor terminates in two small "male" pins onto which the plug connects. Viewed through a magnifying glass I could see debris between the pins. The pin connection area and the plug were cleaned. After refitting the sensor the engine was run and the IAT temp monitored via OBDII. it looked good.

    The CEL light was removed when I tried to cancel the alarm but the fault code remained logged.

    Since this I have driven 150 miles and no return of the CEL.

    I will get back to you if the CEL returns ( fingers crossed )

    Do you think the logged alarm will clear after a number of engine start conditions


    Once again thanks for your help.



  5. Hi Gunter


    Please forgive me but I am not very good when trying to search for things on the forum.


    When I tried to search  'constant drive'. I just got your posting.


    Do you think that the reference to engine temp and time is not connected to the alarm and that it is caused by something else.


    It is annoying that I can not remove this alarm.


    Thanks for your help




  6. Hi Gunter

    Sorry to say but after just 40 miles driving P0128 returned and again will not cancel.


    Unplugged the temp sensor as I did before but this time the alarm will not cancel no matter how many times I try.


    As you say code P0128 is not listed in the lotus manuals that I have.


    Below is part of a post from year 2006.


    What do you make of the special ECU learning procedure ?


    P0128 Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)



    "I don't know the meaning of this code, but I did have a very similar experience with my 02 V8. see my post.
    To cut a long story short, the ECU needed to re-learn the output of some sensors. Until I performed a very special ECU learning procedure, I couldn't clear the error code at all with my OBD software.
    Ask your Lotus dealer to check for updates from Lotus - that's where my Lotus dealer found the solution."
  7. Hi Gunter

    Once again thank you for your quick reply to my questions.


    As you suggested I checked the temp sender for possible bad connections and high resistance.


    When unplugged all looked good, at approx 10degs the resistance was about 4500 ohms.


    I cleaned up the plug and sender socket and applied a small amount of contact cleaner.


    I connected my OBD II sensor ( this is pc based ) and monitored the temp in real time.


    The engine was started from "cold" fault code p0128 still ON and unable to clear.


    After 320 seconds running ( see info in workshop book ) temp indicating 60 degs.


    After 12 mins running (tick over speed, car in garage) temp at 82 degs.


    Temp then went up slowly until the fans switched in at 100 degs 


    At 95 degs fans switched off.


    I then tried to cancel / remove the P0128 alarm -- no luck -- I tried three more times and at the last a try the alarm was removed and the CEL was off


    The engine was switched off and re started several times -- still no alarm.


    On the pc display the alarm is still logged but no CEL.


    I will monitor and inform you if the alarm returns.


    Thanks very much for your help


      Chris Ward

  8. Hi 

    My car is my 2002.


    I have a CEL alarm with the code P0128, "coolant temperature below thermostat regulating temperature"


    I am not able to remove this alarm with OBD II 


    There is a reference to this alarm in 2006 but I can not see an answer in this posting


    The engine coolant temp seems good at 88 / 90 degs.


    Is there a sensor which reads this temp within a time frame ?


    What puts this alarm on ?


    How do I remove it ?


    Hope these questions make sense.


      Thanks,  Chris



  9. Hi Alex and Gunter


    Thank you for your replies. Here is my update.


    Checked all sensors, cables, connections and castle rings -- all look ok.


    Took the car for 6 mile drive ( forgot how nice it feels in a V8 ) -- unfortunately
     abs light still on.


    Have spoken to a friend who owns Phoenix motorsports -- he has a Tech 1 reader gizmo.


    In the next two weeks I will take the car along there and find out what alarm code is logged. Hopefully I will be able just to cancel it.


    I will post an update then. Thanks for your help.


      Chris Ward

  10. Hi Gents


    My car is 2002 V8


    My car has been off the road for the winter, stored in its nice garage. Its spring almost and that means mot and road tax time.


    Throughout the winter I have started the car and on dry days had a very short drive. Always everything was ok. 


    Today when I went out to give the car a run when I switched on the ignition the ABS warning light did not go out.


    The only job I did which may be connected was to remove all the relays and fuses to check that the connection pins were clean and free from corrosion. All were ok. 


    Can you answer the following.


    1. What is happening under normal conditions that turns off the ABS lamp after a few seconds of ignition switch on.


    2. I have not driven the car yet. Is there a " self teach " in the system when the car is moving.



      Chris Ward

  11. Hi Gents


    My car is-- my 2002.


    The air con has stopped working, I suspect it just requires re filling. I have read the post`s regarding this and have a question with which I hope you can help.


    It is seems that it is best to get the system vac cleaned to remove all the old gas, oil and moisture


    My question is with regard to oil and gas volume for re fill. 


    Dose the vac process mean that the system is completely empty and therefore requires more oil and gas than if it were just "topped up"?


    I have the following volumes from the manual


    1.2 kg gas, vols for various components -- receiver/drier 28cc , condensor 28cc, evaporator 85cc and compressor 60cc


    I am I worrying over nothing ?


    Will the staff doing the job know all this





  12. Hi Gentlemen

    Can you help with this question? Related to exhaust noise and UK mot requirements

    MY 2002 V8 – if the car is set up as follows – standard cats connected to centre exit tailpipes, will the car pass mot with regards to emissions and also will the exhaust volume be ok as there is no silencer in place

    Thanks Chris

  13. Hi Gunter

    Thanks for that advice.

    I was able to remove the aluminium adaptors from the coolers but as you said the adaptors were seized solid in the flex pipe end.

    I cut the flexible pipes to avoid damaging the coolers.

    I will try and obtain new aluminium adaptors for the re assembly


    Because its winter there is no rush to finish the job and so it will a few weeks before I return to my chilly garage.

    Whilst I have the gear shift assembly removed is it worth overhauling this unit.

    Regards Wardy

  14. Hi Guys

    Can you help.

    I have an oil leak from nearside cooler -- the leak is from the pipe connected to the oil filter base -- it seems to be at the "crimp" joint on the rubber.

    After consulting the info on the site I have successfully removed all the pipes and both the coolers.

    I am arranging for new wire reinforced pipes to be made.

    My question -- what is the thread dia and type in the coolers.

    After looking at the comments on the forum I am confused ( 1/2 bsp -- 5/8bsp ) or 22mm

    The label on the cooler states --- SETRAB, made in Sweden, part number 52/01453, connection G5/8A

    Does the last bit mean 5/8 bsp

    Setrab website states all connections 22mm

    Thanks Wardy

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