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Jacques last won the day on June 28

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    1990 Esprit Turbo SE

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  1. On mine it's above and was like that when I took it apart. So I placed them there when installing new oil coolers. It stabilizes the hose/oilcooler, so it does not wiggle about and make the hole in the body bigger. It's been 3 years since I did that, and it is absolutely well working, tight and no leaks. Once the foam opieces and the air guide fiber pieces are in place, thay also help support the oil coolers in place and lessen vibes and bumps. So, on mine, there was a piece of foam on top of each oil cooler (between that and the underside of the body), and on the sides and the bottom to guide air. See pics, albeit I have renewed all foam with new firesupressing pieces, painted black withe heat resistant black paint, on these pics. But I copied the exact original parts. Hope it helps. Kind regards, jacques
  2. Meanwhile I have acquired an original Sport300 front spoiler and the Speedo and rev counter also from Sport300. Plus a binnacle You may have to wait a bit more, as more original Sport300 parts are on the way. And then some. And then some more. They are waiting in boxes, for the day I have time enough for the next step. May I remind you, that the first Sport300 had SE door handles So that would be original. Not the S4 parts. Also, the S4s turbo is not the same as the Sport300, and also the induction hose is larger on the Sport300 (which I have also installed). It's smaller on the S4s. May I also remind you, that some Sport300 had factory installed aircondition, so a la SE. And some Sport300 came with S4 comfort seats, not the Sport300 model only bucket seat. The engine cover is also a modified one from the SE with the new style tailgate. I happen to have a set of the "tops" to be welded on the frame in a box on the desk, if you need to copy them. The powersteering suposedly demands removable strenghening bars on the front frame, which is welded in on the SE model with out powersteering. Personally, I prefer a set of rebuilt S4s wheels to adopt Sport300 width tires, over the higher profile smaller diameter Sport300 wheels. The Sport300 had extra bolts to hold the thin chassis in place to the frame. And it had thin noise dampers instead of thicker ones for the suspension (I've been told). And of course the uprated improved cold air supply for the front brakes. Some Sport300 did not come factory built with alcantara on the steering wheel, but normal leather. Kind regards, jacques
  3. That, or it should be placed on the "experienced" shelf. Your car is no longer a plastic car, as some other car brands would have it. Kind regards, jacques
  4. Good too hear. I've never used that classic oil myself, but some friends have, and they are okay with it in their 40 year old Laverda ball bearing engines. But that is another matter. I would expect the same as you have found, by shifting from Classic to Supercar. Two very different types of oil. But I will add to the old thread's content, that Supercar is designated so, because Castrol wanted to celebrate their approval by Köenigsegg in Sweden. That is the only difference. I called Castrol UK Headquaters recently and asked the tech department. And speaking of sludge, created by too much zink for example, I can add that while carmakers advertise their cars to use long life versions, these create way too much sludge, and I have personally seen many expensive heavily tuned Audi RS and VW Golf R engines (for example by HGP, which I have helped work on wither service or engine rebuilds)) full of sludge from long life oil. Just never use it. I avoid it like the covid-19. Keep a long distance Kind regards, Jacques
  5. Made a quick stop at this working mill. Old used up stones behind the Esprit. This type of landscape with curvy narrow hilly backroads are my favourites for taking a good fun drive in the Esprit. It's easy to feel how the car responds to the road and the drivers input. A nice dance. Have a nice Summer! Kind regards, jacques
  6. Robin: In Lotus Service Notes, section EMH.1, page 13, section I, the following is written: "... When first starting the engine after reconnecting the battery or ECM power suply, it may be necessary to partially depres the accelerator pedal, and to release the accelerator very slowly when first returning to idle, in order for the ECM to re-learn the idle air control (IAC) valve position. The time taken to complete the integrator and block learn re-learning process will vary from vehicle to vehicle, and will also depend on driving conditions. Gentle driving at steady throttle openings will speed the process. There is unlikely to be any differences in engine performance or vehicle characteristics during this period. ..." It is my experience, that if you don't follow this, the warm up idleing may be a bit jerky at first, until you disconnect and therefore reset the ECM once more. Kind regards, Jacques
  7. Nice Lotus, but the noise must be a new version of the old military noise that was developed to kill people, that Kate Bush sang about. Cheers, Jacques
  8. Somethimes this is preinstalled. Otherwise it's a good idea. Mine had none. Kind regards, jacques
  9. If you do so, do wrap in the braided line with something else to protect it where it passes holes in the chassis. First you add new gromets from the slave end on to the new line. position them to make it easier to reach to pressfit. attatch the old and new line. Pull through. Old gromets may be needed to undo and remove or just pressed back in the end. Instead of suing an extra adapter fitting, redril and cut the fitting thread in the slave cylinder. No need for extra fitting and extra sealing rings. I filed down the new fitting a little bit to make it pass, rather than drilling and filing holes in the galvanized chassis. No problem ever in that. Kind regards, jacques
  10. The nice people who lay new asphalt seems to drive 4wd jap scrap, and they probably even sit down on a memory foam pillow, while their 90 aspect tires with low pressure, run unnoticed over their uncredibly bad roadwork. Yesterday it happened with a positive speed over 109 km/h. Not typing which, as Danish police likes to read forums. Anyway, annoying as it is. Maybe it's just worn and became more sensitive as there is less friction and it moves easier? Kind regards, Jacques Derek: is there somthing I can do myself to overcome this? Kind regards, Jacques
  11. agreed, but if possible, I'd prefer to have it where it sits now. Original placing. Maybe there are someone out there who can attest to this being too old and becoming a little sensitive or if there's somethig that be done to this specific original unit. Kind regards, jacques
  12. Thanks. I am a little bit in doubt if I should install the clitch project now, or wait until I have collected the remaining parts for the gearbox itself. I am a little bit tempted to do the clutch now, as it would leave me better for knowledge if something needs to be corrected. The optimised gearshift project is also under way, but I need my parts returned tome from England, where they have been in "quarantine" for some time, to be copied. Meanwhile, I am now thinking of trying to make a super gearmaster, based on the late style Mk. 3 Lotus shifter, and something entirely different. I need to have a good thorough look at how the late Mk. 3 shifter works, and go from there to see, if I can transfer the way the reverse is selected, into a mech that is more positive, more slick and more precise with a nicel "click". I also have a little bit of trouble separating the collets and spring inside the late stype end cover, for a different surface treatment I'd like to do. Meanwhile I have now experienced twice that the til over stop the fuel switch is bouncing up, while I am driving. Bad roads.... Any good ideas to make it stay put? More later. Cheers, Jacques
  13. I like the noble too. Very sporty car. And fast. Go on, loose the boring evora and get the noble. Kind regards, jacques
  14. Next project is now including a few other bit and bobs:
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