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Jacques last won the day on June 28 2020

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About Jacques

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    1990 Esprit Turbo SE

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  1. A completely normal day in the English countryside, with absolutely nothing out of the ordinary happening - peacefullness and calmness as always, with two typical English blokes having made a bet over a pint at the local pub, on who is going to reach work from home first, each using his preferred means of silent, quiet and meaningfull eco-friendly transportation to complete the task at hand, as it would happen on any given day... Proof given that not even a local cow bother turning it's head or even lift an eye, and local fishermen doing their daily job without any disturbance. Carry on.
  2. So, because it took so long time and the weather was really nice yesterday, so I had to leave it and drive out in the sunset; I then did the left side gearbox mount yesterday and the right hand side this evening. All good now. I've summarized the steps I did over on my own build thread "Little Red Riding Hood". Nope, all new bushings, bolts, shims, full geo, the lot. Just need two pin up girls to sit in the car, while I tighten the bushing-bolts. so, next up is changing engine mounts. Do people use the standard items, or is there something to be gained here? And to those who run
  3. Hi Tom, No, cannot say yet, as I need other projects to be finished, before I can drive I expect the gearbox to be in tight check, not moving about. The cylindrical item is an ordinary old school fuel filter that dampens the plopping sound from the vacuum pump. Kind regards, Jacques
  4. Meanwhile at the batcave, ehrmmm the foxhole, ignoring the current garage situation, I decided to change both gearbox mounts for my new poly gearbox mounts, bolts etc. So, because it took so long time and the weather was really nice today, so I had to leave it and drive out in the sunset, I did the left side gearbox mount as follows: Procedure for changing gearbox mounts on Stevens Esprits: 1/ remove top heat cover for left side engine mount. Leave the others in place (the heat shield maze). 2/ loosen both engine mounts. 3/ loosen and remove 4 pcs 8mm bolts on gearbox
  5. Thanks Ian. I was also thinking of removing the two aluminium gearbox supports (stays), so I could try to minimize the need to lift the whole gearbox. As you say, it may be required to remove the exhaust frame. I'll report back here, once I find out. Thanks! Kind regards, Jacques
  6. Hi all, I'd like to get some tips on how to change the gearbox mounts as mine are old and would probably do with a new set, that I have ready. So, as I understand it, there seems to be a few methods for this: 1/ removing top nut, washer and the two gearbox mount frame bolts (M8) and then lifting the gearbox. 2/ as no. 1, but also involves removing the lower strut to each hub. Something that I'd like to avoid, as I would need to re-ballast and redo all bushings etc. 3/ ? I tried no. 1, and lifting the gearbox from below by means of a piece of wood and my low bed fl
  7. A problem have arisen. I have to leave my garage with pit and all, as the building is going to be used for something completely different. I have trouble finding a proper place to store and work on the car, so thinking of maybe selling it all, but it would be a pity as I am neither finished with the car, nor finished driving it. Trying to figure out what to do. I have 3 high maintenance sports vehicles, and I like them all, none more than the other. Finding a proper space in or around Copenhagen is hard and very expensive, say 400-800 usd per month, which is bleedingly expensive in my humble e
  8. As long as we talk about a set of original OZ Futura Modular, which was made specifically for the Esprit and also other cars, say big Mercedes and others, the wheel's individual parts are made from an center 5 spoke star, an inner drum and an outer lip. All bolted together with a various number of bolts, depending on wheel diameter. Those bolts are locked with nuts on the inner drum's rearside, and loctited. A bead of sealant is then laid in the center cavity that is between the three main pars, once bolted up in the factory. Same is done if you do them yourself. The procedure of tighteni
  9. Hmm... It turns out so, that today I took a close look at the Bosch pump I bought from an american seller some 3 years ago, and took the ends off, which then surfaced a few small green plastic threads. Those are pieces from then the original pump was there, with a green net around it. Some of it must have fallen apart and finally made it's way up and into the pump, despite a mesh filter. So, after cleaning it up, why not reinstall it, and volia, pump is running fine and my Esprit started right up. Fuel tanks are now carefully looked into for other eventual debris, but they are clean.
  10. Yes, and so did I. I won't re-install it. I think I am going to order a Walbro like the one I linked to. Kind regards, Jacques
  11. Here's a picture of my dead pump from Bosch, bought via fleabay from USA. Lasted 3 years. Any way to determine if this is a chinese copy? To me at least, it looks genuine. So does box and fittings which I still have. Kind regards, Jacques
  12. So it would appear. The pump that Damien links to, seems to be a totally different design, not fitting the SE. I will now look at the walbro pump, just have to find a suitable spec. I'll write that here, once it's ordered. Question: is it an absolute must to have to pulse damper on the original pump (not fitted to the Bosch)? Kind regards, Jacques
  13. All right, so I just got canned by a f.....g chinese company pretending they sell the real deal, Bosch 69218 pump. Hmmm... Fortunately paypal can step in. SO, needing a genuine Bosch 69218 fuel pump, can someone please direct me to one, or two, please? Kind regards, jacques
  14. Did that, and there is power all the way to the pump, for 2 seconds only (and 10 seconds in another mode), when ignition is turned on. So managed to se that. Out with the "new" pump, a Bosch, and an old pump on - works. Now ordering a new pump or two. Thanks! So, looking at pumps, this one came up:
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