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Jacques

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Jacques last won the day on March 16

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About Jacques

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  • Name
    Jacques
  • Car
    1990 Esprit Turbo SE

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  1. A quick feedback on the new tires: So, after having calculated the camber and adjusted accordingly, I've now had a chance to drive Little Red Riding Hood for two days. And does she dance! The grip from those Wheels are really a step above the grip from the AWI Monobloc, and they too were already an improvement from the 1990 SE wheels. You can simply go around a roundabout until you get Dizzy Or a bit faster on curvy back roads, which I really like. I have a certain route of 115km's which is backroads mixing forests, fields, hills going between very narrow and just narrow 1 lane roads, all with lots of hills and curves. The car Sticks even better to those sharpish turns. I haven't hada chance to drive in the wet, so cannot comment on that yet. The quality on these tires seem to be good and they seem fairly quiet, the carry very Little balance weights and they don't upset the suspension, nor the chassis. The Pirelli Pzero Rosso Assimetrico in 315/30-18 grips very well, once warmed up a bit and in an outside temp. above +10 deg cel. A Summer tire. Recommendable. Little Red Riding Hood is most pleased with her new dancing shoes. Kind regards, Jacques
  2. And you Guys in the UK still swear to all the rest of us, that there's no damage done by driving the Esprit during the salty Winters? Sparky: that rear upper link with polybushing should guarantee improved fast turning for years to come... Kind regards, jacques ps: impressive... Not only Sparkys job, but all the hours of salt driving and many hours of neglect it must have taken...
  3. No, they don't. Only 3 were made. More could be made if you contact pnm et al. Kind regards, Jacques
  4. Exactly my thought. And I would have to buy some stuff to set it up. For example I have a relatively large protractor from Festool which could be used. But as Filip said, I don't think it's enough precision-wise. It's good for Wood working, but probably not for this purpose. Anyway, it's always good to have a few methods. Thanks all Kind regards, Jacques
  5. Cheers But as I usually say: If I cannot outrun them, at least I can try to psyche them into oblivity beforehand Jacques ps: Where I live, there are many lowered beemers, Mercedes, and japscrap and what not. Lot's of fat exhasut pipes coming from a seemingly thin single pipe, and thay are so fun to drive up to at a red stoplight. Or jsut behind then in the same lane. The Esprit is flat, fat, and ticks all the right boxes, being a supercar, not a doorslammer.
  6. I understand that the tires are in principle wobly and deform to a certain extent, where as the rims are same size and shape always. But the number is varying if I use a far smaller r (the rim) in stead of the complete wheel. Just for fun, I'll bring a ruler and measure the hight with wheel on the ground and say 2,2 Bar and then with 2,5 bar and see what it does to the radius, thereby affecting the arch length. A minimal difference, but none the less. Yes, I did some comparisons with this mothod vs. using Sin vs. a third method. Anyway, as long as I got the method to calculate, it's easy enough. And when not having my trusty HP41CX nearby in the garage, I like to have a method to calculate it with the highly sophisticated piece of paper with a pencil Sinus work well for me too if the plastic brain (41cx which I've had for 33 years) is around. Yes, I am being anal about it. Precision is good. Detail is good. I am also counting every gram (or as close I can get) I subtract from the car The Esprit is a precision road weapon, not a people carrier. It's about search and destroy (911 Chaos cars). Anyway, I'll stick to 12,4mm arch length. There's impression in this as well, as it it was to be calculated precisely, one would have to divide the arch to the horizontal ine into small objects, and calculate those to get nearer a true value. I think it's good enough for now. I cannot adjust it so precisely anyway. But I can strive to get say 12,4mm. We'll see how it handles with that setting. Or I'll redo it with just 1 degree equaling 11,3mm. So what are peoples experiences in real life with camber values? By experience, is it better to stick to factory values, or maybe something different, while still avoiding too much bump steer? Kind regards, jacques ps: Oh no! this post now show 727 nonsense points... I hope that they don't lead to 737MAX8, which would unmistakeably lead to a crash in calculations... pps: in fact I'd better make a small programme on the plastic brain that asks for data and throw the result. Yes, I know in this case, it's quicker to just calculate it, but it's just for the fun of it. Love OPN or RPN as you say over there, so here's my plastic brain my HP41CX with a couple of math and stat modules and it's back up siblings:
  7. Cheers, We await to see hwo it all looks Meanwhile at the batcave, I have now translated the 1 degree +/- 6 minutes to something usable, so I can easily adjust the upper rear arms to suit the wider rears. Fronts are 0,9 degree (both Sport 300 numbers). I am particularely interested in the alcantara and how it looks! Kind regards, Jacques
  8. I think that woil be the same. So, easy enough to calulate an dadjsut accordingly. Thanks. Kind regards, jacques
  9. So, I am trying to calculate the distance a 315 rear Wheel will have to be tilted inwards to suit the car. I was told that the Sport300 have a camber of 1 degree 6 minutes. Or rather 1 degree +/- 6 minutes. If we can assume this number is correct, that is the one I would like to work with. Let's assume this is correct. Let's also asume the the outer circumference of my rear Wheels are 2030,1mm. That would correspond to a total Wheel hight of 646,2mm more or less. First I would calculate the degrees/minutes to angle degrees, by saying degrees + (minutes divided by 60). That would be something like 1 degree 6 minutes = 1+(6 divided by 60)=1,1 degree. Now I think I have an angle that I can calculate to radians, to get a decimal number, not an angle. This I think do by multiplying the degree by Pi and divide that with 180. So, I think it would be: (1,1*Pi) divided with 180= 0,0192 (radian number). That radian number I need to calculate to a useable metric number in mm. which we may call the arch length. The arch length is the distance between To do this, I think I need to use a formula saying arch length S=radian number * radius. This means S = 0,0192 * 646,2 = 12,407mm. So, if I am correct, the distance from vertical to the top point of the rear tire should be 12,407mm, which is easy to measure and adjust accordingly by turning the upper rear arm adjustable nut. If we use a Lotus calue of 1 degree straight (+/- 0), this would then mean that we calculate the S to be 11,27mm. My question is this: Is this calculation correct? And is the Sport300 rear tyre camber correct? Kind regards, jacques
  10. Can you explain that in more details, please? Kind regards, Jacques
  11. Then take a look at this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phqshdDoFn4 and here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCi3WM0S95o and finally here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ek_x_tW9zVk Don't try that with the original Futura outer lips, Or just don't try it at all. Kind regards, Jacques
  12. Sorry, they are 12,9 steel. I looked it up and it says 12,9 grade. My bad. Cannot buy some like that that I know of. Only 10,9 steel, stainless forged to 8,8 or Ti6Al4V titanium bolts. Ian, you should like those numbers on the inner star and the inner barrel up, and then place the new Radinox outer lip on top, so that the valve hole is aligned together with the stamped numbers on the inner barrel and the inner star. See attatched Picture in the above. Kind regards, Jacques
  13. I did not apply sealant between inner mating surfaces, as they can sometimes make things go wrong and not sit straight. This would make a wheel dangerous and wobble. And I applied the Pactan 7043 in two rounds with two beads laid down each time, then smoothed out with a wet finger or a tool. I made sure there wouldn't be any edge that a tyre being fitted can get caught on, thereby risking the quality and integrity of the sealant. With a few days in between each of the two layers, to give it time to cure. I would personally remove any lacquer or powder coating or similar from the mating surfaes, before bolting them together - for the same reasons. From factory, there's no sealant and no paint or lacquer on those mating surfaces. And it's not because it's just sprayed all in one go. Each part is done individually and in different materials. So for safety reasons and sealing well, no stuff in between. That's how mine were from factory. I also specifically bolted the parts marked 1-1-1, 2-2-2, 3-3-3 and 4-4-4 together with just a few bolts and then went to a tyre fitter and had them spin it up on their computer controlled measurement machine, which measures balance AND road pressure, to see if it was mated together correctly, or you will seal it all for nothing and will have to remove it all again and undo it all again and rebolt it again etc. After this check, bolt it all up to spec and check again by measuring if it jumps or in any other way is not centered. Then seal it up twice as described and then fit tires and redo balance again, this time with only a few grams of weight Make sure you tight them correctly and not to much or too Little. I've seen people mantioning lesser torque on old used bolts and that is maybe something others can comment on. I used factory spec and bolts are 10.4 grade steel then hard cromed. Nuts are more mundane. Each bolt is clearly marked O.Z Other bolts can be bought (not originals) and should be 10.4 is used. I did not trust those and used the OZ bolts again after having cleaned them completely, so no old stuff on the threads. I spoke to a Wheel cpecialist about this and he said they are safe to use. Others may think differently. I just think all this is worth mentioning. Those numbers mentioned are suposed to sit aligned to each other and balance the Wheel. Those numbers also sit exactly in front of where the valve stem hole is positioned in the outer lips. So all should be aligned: inner star, inner drum, outer lip. The road pressure can counterbalance for any grams of weight, saving you problems, and lowering road tear as much as 5000-8000 kms extra on a set of tires. Worth doing. I also only used strong metal valves, no rubber stuff here. After this, my wheels are perfectly running smooth, straight and cemtralised and is completely air tight. Kind regards, Jacques
  14. Indeed it would, as the 285/35-18 is actually a bit narrow for even a 10,0" rim, according to some tyre makers. And 235/40-17 is also a bit narrow for a 8,5" rim. You can even see it visually when it's installed on the Wheel, naturally depending on the brand of tyre installed. Paul, could you tell a bit more of the pro's and con's of the AD08? Kind regards, Jacques
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