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Jacques last won the day on April 22 2016

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    1990 Esprit Turbo SE
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  1. Jacques

    Tools for Esprit

    hence why he doesn't use a helmet as well. Kind regards, Jacques
  2. Jacques

    Tools for Esprit

    I have used 1/4", a 3/8" and a 1/2" Bacho socket set for years. Work very well. Two or three years ago I bought similar sets from Wera. They do have a very smart function with the head of the ratchets that can click into several positions. Both marques use round corner tech to avoid..... round corners. A few extra extensions come in handy too. I would recommend a good multimeter. You'll need it sooner or later. And if it explodes in your face, you know why I recently bought a Fluke. For storaing, I gave up storing spanners, pliers screwdrivers etc. in boxes years ago. I use an open top Festool box ifI move somewhere other than my garage. And in the garage, I hung up 3 big pieces of plywood, painted them White and installed hooks and screws to hold the aforementioned tools. Much easier. Unbrako keys I got from Wera's stainless series. They are really good. I have another brand with t-handle, which also come in hande once in a while. Some ring/open end spanners you'll need twice of or even a third sacrificing it to be cut and grinded to fit say undoing the exhaust manifold. Guess how I know. Well, Sparky said so, and I found it to be a very good advice. Made it a lot easier. I have one Facom ring/open end spanner, and it's been used for years and still going strong. I also have a few old Belzer spanners from when they made it of real steel. All the other spanners I have are Stahlwille - very good and give you the feel to know that you are doing. And 5 different sized old Sandvik adjustable spanners from when they were made in Sweden and made of Swedish steel. Work fine, but use them seldom if nothing else can. A heatgun with a couple of adjustments come in handy. I have a set of plastic pliers that are used to stop a pulled off hose loosing it liquid. I don't think they Work very well. A low bed trolley jack for easy going under the chassis is good to have. Sometimes they come a an extra rubber puk that is smart to use here and there. Can be bought seperately too in the size that fit your lifter. Make sure the trolley jack have as Little freeplay as possible. Some look the same, but they are not. Oh, and get a nice spray of rust dissolver/nut loosener/screw loosener. That's a tool you know So is a spray can of decent Electric connector cleaner. As for a cutter/grinder, I use a small green Bosch as it can go most placed. If not I use a metal-geared german Proxxon which is FAR better than what Dremel make today, as they lowered their quality. Also more silent. I have a set of Proxxon Micro Combispeeder. Trust me, they are good. And one side is made so that a nut cannot fall out, which you'll appreciate as you Work. I don't buy a box of them, but seperate ones in sizes I need. The direction switch is good and does not shift all the time. Brake pipe spanners are good. I use them in pairs so I can contra-hold (if it makes any sense). I have a lot more tools, but that's outside this thread. For tools for driving, I amongst other Things, got a nice quality parallel grip pliers, that can come in real handy if need be and can Work in many sizes so you carry less tools. For torquing, I use bacho in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" versions. (I also have a very smal one for bicycles 0-5Nm.) 5 years ago, I finally got myself an acurate air pressure meter from Sparco. No more guess-Work with a cheap one. As Sparky mentioned, the Mightyvac suction/pressure gauge. Works easy and well and is not expensive in the UK. Generally, I only buy the tools when I need them, not to have tons of tools I never use. Buy cheap, buy twice. Get some nice tools that will last it's spec for a long time. I just came home from visiting a friend, wrenching on his Laverda 1200TS and he only have old rounded screwdrivers. Pretty irritating when trying to take apart a bank of DellOrto carburettors. I never lent out my tools to anyone. Ever. Sparky, I have some of your tools Just my two pence. Kind regards, Jacques
  3. Yes they are. Thanks for the advice. Kind regards, Jacques
  4. All right, so finally got my hands on these 4 new small babies are ready to be put in place. Now, I Wonder where the two washers and one bolt went? Little Red Riding Hood is on her tip toes looking forward to getting these installed. Kind regards, jacques
  5. That's a great piece of Work. Well done. Now we only need new delay modules (whe one that sit next to the pod motor left side). Cannot even find the needed parts to redo my own. So my pods stays up, once activated... Kind regards, Jacques
  6. Jacques

    This Cannot be Happening! Opinions, please!

    Good to hear a detailed explanation from both of you. Hence my Little more elaborated description too. Honestly, I am not an mechanic or an engineer. So, working on something like an Esprit is fun and relaxing for me. It's a hobby which is not related to my job. But that doesn't mean that my arms are reversed. I've been doing my own cars and motorcycles since 18 y.o. And then some. Never had a failure. I did not have to bent a tube to fit it, I wrote that wrongly, but that was somehow what came out of it. I had the wrong angled flange corrected. I wil not present myself as super engineer or developer not as a professional formula one mechanic. And I don't think that it is needed to be so, to work on the Esprit. I do expect to have to work around a few things to make it happen. Fine by me. For the price Alunox wants, I expect educated people making competent solutions and precision fabrication within their working field. I would not say that their products are back street made, but in my case of the rad set, I had to spend time and money on having 3 independent people working within the field to evaluate if it was possible to obtain a propper fit and function within a resonable amount of man hours. Hours that I had to be taking free from my job to drive around and try to get solutions. For example a flange that certainly does not fit the cylinderhead, no matter the way of instalation, because it's welded on at the wrong angle. I just think that the large order they received at the time, all because of this great site and the common interest from Esprit owners to get a propper exhaust manifold which does not crack, made them haste it a bit through and not jig up ecerything propperly in every case. I think that is a realistic take on what heppened. In the case of the radiator set, I don't want to install inferrior products or something that looks like a person with no knowledge on these matters made them blindfolded, on a fine car like the Esprit. There were crushed cooling fins that were certainly done so at the fabrication as it was very well packed and no harm what so ever in transition. There were frames that could not fit, there were studs that did not fit. There were weldings that did not hold tight in a rad. And more. Nor do I want to cut here and there on the Esprit, to fit someone elses product that is supposed to fit. It was never a case of cheap made far East crap products remade to fit loosely. It was stated a fine products made in the UK with knowledge, experience and pride. I would not think, based on my own experiences with that company, any warranty issues would be met with acceptance. So I don't need it. I needed their products to fit for purpose. I am all for good initiatives making good aftermarket solutions for parts and nla parts for the Esprit. And I happily support that. I just paid a few thousand pounds for a carbon tailgate for the Esprit. Why? because I cannot make it myself. I don't think every Esprit owner around the globe are mechanical Experts or precision engineers or such. That tailgate also had to go to a specialist, well in fact right now he should be working on it, to make it work and fit propperly. Around a full weeks work - 37 hours, to make it fit and function propperly. All of which I have to pay. So I think it shows that I am not intollerant, or a cheapskate, but looking for solutions. So my point is, I clearly wrote that Alunox does make some good stuff, just not allways, and their support is somewhat lacking to say it mildly. I was just naive enough to think that educated people with experience, would do it better than was in my case. Or do a better backup or aftersales or whatever you call it. That is also being professional. Luckily, I could modify the tubular exhaust manifold to fit propperly, apart from the slip joint springs and the support brackets. It Works well without them. Some on here have expressed ideas about not being needed for the full function of the manifold. I don't want to have an exhaust manifold that risk pulling on some of the cylinderhead studs. I want it to fit. On and off the car without being a struggle. So does the Lotus cast iron one, and so does my own original Lotus brand new one. and so does my Alunox. Now. I can take it off in around one hour. And reinstall it in around an hour. No huss and fuss. I also specifically stated in, I think a very clear manner, that I think that Alunox's tubular exhaust manifold is the best product for performance and longevity because of how it's done and materials chosen. Mine Works very well. I could see a clear rise in power and torque. It's super light and haven't cracked so far. I am not against Alunox. I just think they should be a Little more inviting to service and make sure their products are precision made every time. Which I think they are by now. Noone is too big to listen and learn. I think they did too. So I still recommend them. In summarization of all this, I just say to others: make up your own mind based on real life experiences and take an informed descision. I am certainly not a keyboard engineer and I don't pretend to be one. But what I DID get, is great help and support from you good people on this great site. It makes it all the more joyfull to have an Esprit! Nuff' said. I am not going into a debate other than that. I keep it strictly at what it was. My comment based on my own experiences with that specific Company and their specific products. As I clearly stated, things were presented a bit differently from the start, and was not what I received. I will still recommend Alunox's tubular exhaust manifold for the Stevens Esprit, as it's the best out there still. Just my two pence on the matter. Kind regards, Jacques
  7. Oh, I see that from the left side of your replies Well, good luck on refreshing the parts. Kind regards, Jacques
  8. 30 deg cel. here in Denmark for 15 weeks, more or less. Have a great jurney. Kind regards, Jacques
  9. Jacques

    This Cannot be Happening! Opinions, please!

    Well, I thought that too, but mine were really bad made. I have Photos of that. It wouldn't fit at all. Tubes had to be bent to fit. Once finally fitted, I can testify that it Works super well with regards to more power and lesser lag. The power rise mostly comes into play once you do other Things to the engine. I have dyno runs to proof that. The dyno I use is the same every time and he's a reliable trustworthy guy that does not have an interest in putting his 25 years experience on the line. I tried to get help from Alunox, having also bought other of their Lotus Esprit products, but to no avail. Before I contacted them with questions regarding fitment quality and workmanship, I had 3 independent professionals to look at the products and hear their opinion. Despite the extra Work I had to do to make it fit propperly, I'd still say it's the best on the market. Another problem I have is the uprated support bracket that does not fit. A third problem is that the slip joint and springs to be installed does not fit on mine. Still left without both on the car. Again no support from alunox despite me asking them. When I bought their complete cooling package - coolant radiator, 2 oil coolers, charge cooler rad and air con rad, it was different made than the pics advertised on here, and quality was horrible to say the least. Alunox themselves deemed them unrepairable, took it all back, fully refunded me and repaired them and sold them on. I know of a few others with reagards to exhaust manifold that had to be forced into place. Not to mention the cooling set. At that Price it cost, I would expect better fitment and better quality. The Price from Alunox for their products are not cheap and all the fuss about them restoring racing cars etc. should be a fine example of their quality. Unfortunately in my case, as well as in some of the other buyers cases, it wasn't so. But I should also mention, that this varies greatly in how big the problems were. Some could force Things a bit, I couldn't as it was wrong on other levels/planes. I have plenty of Photo documentation to proof. An untrue story it's certainly not. I stand behind my Words, as they are true and not at all exaggerated. Normally, I would not have written this, would it not be for the remark of not believing half of what's been said. Well, I don't know all that's been said, but I can tell about my own experiences and I therefore wrote a review of the Alunox manifold posted on this site, which I think is fair. I am well aware that one should be carefull about dishing a product or a supplier on the web, because of the Words being left there for a long time. It would only be fair to mention, that I've heard that the quality is improved now adays. I never haggeled about the Price. I paid what Alunox wanted and the Price level they Work with would suggest better fitment and better support around their products. I think my Money is worth as much as anyone elses to be honest. I am not trying to put Aunox down. I will let their work speak for itself. Anyone can make of that what they want, but at least one should be able to make an informed descision. That is fair I think. Again I will stress that I still think they have the best tubular exhaust manifold currently on market as of July 2018. Regarding beltchange with engine in situ, it's certainly doable. Chris and Gary for example, changed several with engines in situ at the Copenhagen Belt Fest a couple of years ago. Wish I had listened better of how to Kind regards, Jacques
  10. Think washers on the outside bush upper rear arm are the same on each side of the bush. Anyway, gho through it all. And yes, those red Lotac ones are the ones. Plus all the rest for the rest of the car. Speaking if which, Your SE have a thicker front anti roll bar than most Esprits, but if you want to up that a bit, SJ so sell purple poly bushes for that which is harder than stock. I mean the two middle ones. The outer ones are also delivered from Lotac I think. The purple are meant to be on a Sport350 afaik, but don't hang me for it. If you are tired of deep rolling into corners, these will help a bit. To counteract this mod, to avoid extra understeer, you may play a little with airpressure in the tires. These days I run 2,2 bar in the rear, but that is on V8 Wheels, which are bigger but lower sidewall. Kind regards, jacques
  11. I am in Copenhagen, so can meet up there. I am back on Work from 6 of August. Maybe on the way home? Sent you a PM. Kind regards, Jacques.
  12. Or you can do it yourself if you have access to a 4 post lift or a pit. Read Lotus Service Notes and follow instructions to torque, and the load of the car with two people in it and ½ tank. Looking at your Picture, there's is no barrier between the hub and the bush. Now, driving the car and as the suspension moves, it will crush the bush. So go through this all over the car. Btw. make sure while you are there, that the nuts on the upper adjustable arm is tightened. They can sometimes become loose. Do you have Lotus Service Notes for your model? Kind regards, Jacques
  13. Cannot say that for sure. It's my guestimate. But we've seen this develop before. The Lous made Lotac programme bushings are a totally different material. They are slightly harder than original Lotus bushings, and they keep that way. They don't Loose their shore value. So does anything polyurethane and your purple (and Black and yellow) ones as well. But seriously, I think they can very well destroy themselves because of hardness and they can turn and wander around. Not what you want. I' bite the bullet and swap them all. What brand are those bushings? I've driven around for 13 years in one of my other cars with a complete set of polyurethane bushings from Powerflex and they have been working perfectly. But they may be different and they also are NOT split versions. Likewise on my Corrado which also uses Powerflex bushings. Remember to use coppergrease when you install them or they may destroy or make squealing noises. You can read in the Lotus service manual how to install the arms (after having changed bushings or anything else requireing the arms to come off. The procedure is also repeated on here in various threads. The non-Lotus bushings in plly which is split in two amd have aseperate stainless centerpin that you slide in, cannot do this. May slightly affect driving abilities ultimately, apart from they don't last very long, which is quite counter productive to what they were made for in the first place. I am sure someone else will chime in with a propper explanation. Of course an article can be badly installed, e.g. twisted, being stuck, crushed or something else. That's hard to tell in your case. I'd still be measuring those arms to endure they are straight. More so when we thing of the badly serviced roads we're driving on. Kind regards, jacques
  14. Jacques

    Front Brake Upgrade

    I too wanted better braking on my 1990 Turbo SE (no abs), so looked into the various offerings. I also looked at the PNM big disc solution. The 322mm vented all four corners. Lotus branded AP Sport350 calipers front and 4 piston calipers back. I have kept the original SE hubs, so had PNM make the bells in aluminium as per AP for the front brakes, similar to what Changes have done. Pads are Hawk carbon pads and while they demand really long bedding in, they brake okay and no sound what so ever, even under repeated hard braking. They were spoken of as giving very Little dust, but I've never really com across a pad that does not dust quite much when using them hard(-ish). The point of bigger discs and better ventilation is many further had stops can be done without overheating. Bite is pads and amount piston surface, plus tires, tire pressure and suspension and bushings. You'll be amazed of how much a bad or worn suspention (as a total) can influence the stopping distance. The Turbo SE vacuum booster for brakes is just not very pronounced. Once accustomed to this, it's quite okay with the brake setup I now have. Still feel I could use more braking power and more bite, so 6 piston calipers are on the list, but I cannot get a permit from authorities here so far, which are ultra strict, which have the unfortunate effect, taht old original bad brakes are leagal, and new powerfull super brakes are not leagal... Will look more into that later, to try and get a permission for 4 piston front calipers. I have mesured and looked at the brake boost vacuum and all is at spec. No leaks, no lack of vacuum. The standard brakes are outright dangerous and should never have been installed on such a fast car! Just my personal point of view. AS you said, there's alimit to how big you can go with standard SE Wheels. But get the biggest and baddest you can. You'll be wondering how on Earth you were able to stop before the change. It makes the car so much safer to drive, knowing you at least have a decent chance to stop in due time. I am trying to look up better pads that is good on street and the occasional track day with no preheat. Regarding the parking brake, the pnm/tour choice 4 piston spot brake is non-functioning to a silly level as mentioned by Changes. PNM no makes brackets to install the Brembo rear calipers seperately for the parking function. Works well. They also now have the Electric rear calipers as far as I know. Kind regards, Jacques
  15. Sorry to say this, and I may very well be wrong, but lately we've seen Pictures of various bushes gone bad, all being non-Lotus poly bushes and all being split ones. I am not saying this to dish any non-Lotus component, but I think it's an indicator of something going on with those specific parts. As far as I remember, the split bushings are not very smart in design (apart from installation), as the bushings are supposed to be pretensioned a bit when installed and car is weight loaded to set ride height and then finally fasten the bolts and nuts. That's what I did anyway. More over, I think some of those split bushings are in fact harder than the Lotac ones, and, this is a speculation, may be too hard to Work in an environment where they are under load of twisting, as can be seen in the case of the rear arms, once installed. I suspect they may be too hard and crush. Or it could be a case of an unfortunate installation. Can't really say. So, my take on the matter is take off the offending lower arm, and in fact any other component connected with a non-Lotus bushing (split version, what ever), and measure it to be certain that it's not bent. Then replace with Lotac Lotus bushings. And lubricate them. Now off to seek cover behind the sofa in the garage. Kind regards, Jacques