Jacques

Exactly my thought. And I would have to buy some stuff to set it up. For example I have a relatively large protractor from Festool which could be used. But as Filip said, I don't think it's enough precision-wise. It's good for Wood working, but probably not for this purpose. Anyway, it's always good to have a few methods. Thanks all Kind regards, Jacques

Cheers But as I usually say: If I cannot outrun them, at least I can try to psyche them into oblivity beforehand Jacques ps: Where I live, there are many lowered beemers, Mercedes, and japscrap and what not. Lot's of fat exhasut pipes coming from a seemingly thin single pipe, and thay are so fun to drive up to at a red stoplight. Or jsut behind then in the same lane. The Esprit is flat, fat, and ticks all the right boxes, being a supercar, not a doorslammer.

I understand that the tires are in principle wobly and deform to a certain extent, where as the rims are same size and shape always. But the number is varying if I use a far smaller r (the rim) in stead of the complete wheel. Just for fun, I'll bring a ruler and measure the hight with wheel on the ground and say 2,2 Bar and then with 2,5 bar and see what it does to the radius, thereby affecting the arch length. A minimal difference, but none the less. Yes, I did some comparisons with this mothod vs. using Sin vs. a third method. Anyway, as long as I got the method to calculate, it's easy enough. And when not having my trusty HP41CX nearby in the garage, I like to have a method to calculate it with the highly sophisticated piece of paper with a pencil Sinus work well for me too if the plastic brain (41cx which I've had for 33 years) is around. Yes, I am being anal about it. Precision is good. Detail is good. I am also counting every gram (or as close I can get) I subtract from the car The Esprit is a precision road weapon, not a people carrier. It's about search and destroy (911 Chaos cars). Anyway, I'll stick to 12,4mm arch length. There's impression in this as well, as it it was to be calculated precisely, one would have to divide the arch to the horizontal ine into small objects, and calculate those to get nearer a true value. I think it's good enough for now. I cannot adjust it so precisely anyway. But I can strive to get say 12,4mm. We'll see how it handles with that setting. Or I'll redo it with just 1 degree equaling 11,3mm. So what are peoples experiences in real life with camber values? By experience, is it better to stick to factory values, or maybe something different, while still avoiding too much bump steer? Kind regards, jacques ps: Oh no! this post now show 727 nonsense points... I hope that they don't lead to 737MAX8, which would unmistakeably lead to a crash in calculations... pps: in fact I'd better make a small programme on the plastic brain that asks for data and throw the result. Yes, I know in this case, it's quicker to just calculate it, but it's just for the fun of it. Love OPN or RPN as you say over there, so here's my plastic brain my HP41CX with a couple of math and stat modules and it's back up siblings:

Cheers, We await to see hwo it all looks Meanwhile at the batcave, I have now translated the 1 degree +/- 6 minutes to something usable, so I can easily adjust the upper rear arms to suit the wider rears. Fronts are 0,9 degree (both Sport 300 numbers). I am particularely interested in the alcantara and how it looks! Kind regards, Jacques

I think that woil be the same. So, easy enough to calulate an dadjsut accordingly. Thanks. Kind regards, jacques

So, I am trying to calculate the distance a 315 rear Wheel will have to be tilted inwards to suit the car. I was told that the Sport300 have a camber of 1 degree 6 minutes. Or rather 1 degree +/- 6 minutes. If we can assume this number is correct, that is the one I would like to work with. Let's assume this is correct. Let's also asume the the outer circumference of my rear Wheels are 2030,1mm. That would correspond to a total Wheel hight of 646,2mm more or less. First I would calculate the degrees/minutes to angle degrees, by saying degrees + (minutes divided by 60). That would be something like 1 degree 6 minutes = 1+(6 divided by 60)=1,1 degree. Now I think I have an angle that I can calculate to radians, to get a decimal number, not an angle. This I think do by multiplying the degree by Pi and divide that with 180. So, I think it would be: (1,1*Pi) divided with 180= 0,0192 (radian number). That radian number I need to calculate to a useable metric number in mm. which we may call the arch length. The arch length is the distance between To do this, I think I need to use a formula saying arch length S=radian number * radius. This means S = 0,0192 * 646,2 = 12,407mm. So, if I am correct, the distance from vertical to the top point of the rear tire should be 12,407mm, which is easy to measure and adjust accordingly by turning the upper rear arm adjustable nut. If we use a Lotus calue of 1 degree straight (+/- 0), this would then mean that we calculate the S to be 11,27mm. My question is this: Is this calculation correct? And is the Sport300 rear tyre camber correct? Kind regards, jacques

Can you explain that in more details, please? Kind regards, Jacques

Then take a look at this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phqshdDoFn4 and here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCi3WM0S95o and finally here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ek_x_tW9zVk Don't try that with the original Futura outer lips, Or just don't try it at all. Kind regards, Jacques

Sorry, they are 12,9 steel. I looked it up and it says 12,9 grade. My bad. Cannot buy some like that that I know of. Only 10,9 steel, stainless forged to 8,8 or Ti6Al4V titanium bolts. Ian, you should like those numbers on the inner star and the inner barrel up, and then place the new Radinox outer lip on top, so that the valve hole is aligned together with the stamped numbers on the inner barrel and the inner star. See attatched Picture in the above. Kind regards, Jacques

I did not apply sealant between inner mating surfaces, as they can sometimes make things go wrong and not sit straight. This would make a wheel dangerous and wobble. And I applied the Pactan 7043 in two rounds with two beads laid down each time, then smoothed out with a wet finger or a tool. I made sure there wouldn't be any edge that a tyre being fitted can get caught on, thereby risking the quality and integrity of the sealant. With a few days in between each of the two layers, to give it time to cure. I would personally remove any lacquer or powder coating or similar from the mating surfaes, before bolting them together - for the same reasons. From factory, there's no sealant and no paint or lacquer on those mating surfaces. And it's not because it's just sprayed all in one go. Each part is done individually and in different materials. So for safety reasons and sealing well, no stuff in between. That's how mine were from factory. I also specifically bolted the parts marked 1-1-1, 2-2-2, 3-3-3 and 4-4-4 together with just a few bolts and then went to a tyre fitter and had them spin it up on their computer controlled measurement machine, which measures balance AND road pressure, to see if it was mated together correctly, or you will seal it all for nothing and will have to remove it all again and undo it all again and rebolt it again etc. After this check, bolt it all up to spec and check again by measuring if it jumps or in any other way is not centered. Then seal it up twice as described and then fit tires and redo balance again, this time with only a few grams of weight Make sure you tight them correctly and not to much or too Little. I've seen people mantioning lesser torque on old used bolts and that is maybe something others can comment on. I used factory spec and bolts are 10.4 grade steel then hard cromed. Nuts are more mundane. Each bolt is clearly marked O.Z Other bolts can be bought (not originals) and should be 10.4 is used. I did not trust those and used the OZ bolts again after having cleaned them completely, so no old stuff on the threads. I spoke to a Wheel cpecialist about this and he said they are safe to use. Others may think differently. I just think all this is worth mentioning. Those numbers mentioned are suposed to sit aligned to each other and balance the Wheel. Those numbers also sit exactly in front of where the valve stem hole is positioned in the outer lips. So all should be aligned: inner star, inner drum, outer lip. The road pressure can counterbalance for any grams of weight, saving you problems, and lowering road tear as much as 5000-8000 kms extra on a set of tires. Worth doing. I also only used strong metal valves, no rubber stuff here. After this, my wheels are perfectly running smooth, straight and cemtralised and is completely air tight. Kind regards, Jacques

Indeed it would, as the 285/35-18 is actually a bit narrow for even a 10,0" rim, according to some tyre makers. And 235/40-17 is also a bit narrow for a 8,5" rim. You can even see it visually when it's installed on the Wheel, naturally depending on the brand of tyre installed. Paul, could you tell a bit more of the pro's and con's of the AD08? Kind regards, Jacques

Side question: is MSD 8224 (round or Square one?) the best coil to install in the SE/S4 cars? Kind regards, Jacques

For that you have to be much more specific, so please list up what you need to know. Kind regards, Jacques

That's because it's not coffee cup holders, but the cup's it won over the years Kind regards, Jacques

Haha, it's true. I did drive an RS turbo and it's fun. But I am thinking of the more ordinary variants of special cars. Soooo boring and worthles in my humble view. I mean as a special collectors item. With only a few exceptions. Btw, I saw a spanking brand new (-like) Delta HF Integrale in complete original Martini livery, when I was in Siracusa on Sicily. Now THAT's a nice car! But I do stand by my Words of not liking special sellers like for example auctions, special self-made persons etc. trying to make extreme profit by sucking on anything that their co-writers on mags and online mags can come up with in articles. People and organisations who take a special interest (profit) in inviting you into their fancy decorated luxury selling facilities with big fat carpets, gold and silverware, famous paintings, smart looking Young women who advertise themselves, sleek fast talking sellers who don't know a Jack s..t about anything outside what they can look up or dig up from the web, and are trying to sell you a super nice story of how this particular car is one of only 3 ever made, and only touched by special incarnated tibetan munks, using highly esoteric mantras and special collected yoke from a super rare cliff-living now extinct bird from Iceland's North side, only colleted in stormy weather with a middle Wind of no less than 250 km/h being equal to the average speed of this car on auction on a Monday morning being hit by a special interstallar Sun prhnomenon's light particles, having been underway for 3.000.000.000 lightyears, and treating the surface of the car's paintwork, with only the content of a salvaged one only bottle of 350 year old rum, dug up from the seafloor of the Bermuda Triangle with the aid of a special trained sealion, and only ever being driven by His Masters Voice to two car exhibitions apart from the first ever international Car Rare Art Product display held on the South Pole by the decendant of King George the 5'th, and whose total selling Price will donate 1 pence for every million Pound generated in the selling Price, to South African Apple Farmers Associarion, and the Whole auction is blessed by the ghost of the late Mr. Enzo Ferrari himself. To those Guys I say: Keep clear of Lotus, please! But as I said: I don't know if even I would jump that bandwagon if I ever were to sell. It may come suddenly one day, when I least expect it. Kind regards, Jacques ps: I don't agree that something often breaks up on a Lotus Esprit, neither cheap nor expensive. But we can have a talk about certain other engines and gearboxes from other car brands Anyway, I just don't recognise the often told rumour that the Lotus Esprit is super fragile and often breaks down. Quite the contrary in fact.

Hmm, well, they are almost too light. Maybe I should Work on making the Esprit much more heavy, so that it resembles a dancing donkey from Maranello? And that magnolia color... I've always read that all jeans etc, leave color on the light leather seats. Well, never happened, but just in case. Better think about get rid of them asap. And wrap the Whole car in Black alcantara. Or Wear something else, like my race suit (also light in color). Kind regards, jacques

While I always like a red SE, personally I think the red detailing interrior is a bit over the top, but then again, each to his own, naturally, and people may surely not like my own example of the breed, but honestly I don't care about that. And I would adjust the head light pods before advertising, as can be seen. But more importlantly, price is exactly where I don't want it to be, because it may inflate other sellers into thinking theirs are worth a lot more than they actually are, thereby potentially preventing other prospective buyers to strike a deal. I think we are already well past the average 18 y.o. needing a Friday car for the Summer anyway, so no need to go beserk inflating the price to a moonraker level, to prevent the critters from thrashing the Esprits. All destroyed by sothersby and what not. They don't belong there. Those institutions are meant for scaringly hysterical people who just don't care. Let them pay a gazillion for an old ford Escort 1,3 brazil 1983 with crome window surrounds. It was never a good car when new, and surely is no better today. Instead, the Esprits belong in the hands of good people who want to drive them and keep them above sea level. Well, except one. Anyway, I am not selling, so it's easy to say. Who knows what I would demand for my own car, if that day came?... Kind regards, Jacques

As I wrote I may be wrong, but I cannot get to the car today, but will take a look and a snapshot asap. My car is unassisted, so no servo. Kind regards, Jacques

Hi Steve, Yes, I know that part became revised on S4 onwards, including the Sport300, but I have similar support stays on my SE from 1990 with the exception that they are welded on to the chassis, not bolted. I'll go look an extra time next time I get around to lift something off from that area and possibly take a photo. Hope I am not wrong I can add I was told by Pete from PNM, that on the Sport300 the upper road spring to chassis insulators are 10mm lower, lowering the Whole car without affecting suspension setup in itself. Nice, though I cannot back that up as of yet being completely true. I know about the harder bushing with orange code all around on the Sport300, but this is another part. For example it is not described in any of the literature I have, that the chargecooler itself is 10mm shorter on the intake side, jsut mentioned with another number and another colour. This is something that's beeen debated earlier, but in fact it is 10 mm shorter to adapt the bigger turbo, as i described in the above. It may sometimes apear that Lotus did not always describe their technical side very well, being somewhat "thin" from time to time. Anyway. I'll do that lower insulator thing to my SE as well with the exception of the insulators being made from polyurethane, not rotting away as easily. I was told it doesn't really make a difference in insulation anyway, and on some later cars it was deleted and changed for a metal part. Kind regards, Jacques

auch

I also have the slipcase version, and I paid 35 gbp directly from the Publisher. Same Price on fleabay at the time. I also got the Publishers special version (as mentioned by jep above, but i got mine further signed by Mr. LeMans himsef, Tom Kristensen, as Lotus was participating in the LeMans many moons ago. I fear what that book could end up in these days. I prefer them cheap and available, so people actually read them. Same with the cars Kind regards, jacques

I bought sections from South West Lotus Center. Year 1988 onwards. Remember, there are additional sections in seperate binders. Kind regards, Jacques

I don't think so too for a few reasone: For example the interest rate on Money deposits in a bank is near non-existing. Then investing money in real estate is very unsure as prices are overpumped. Then investing Money in playing the stock market game have been near loss most of 2018. Next there seems to be an increasing number of mags and flutube movie makers, WHO take in interest in making a video or an article about the Lotus Esprit. So noticed by many people as viewers and/or readers. And finally, more "famous" or just well known people have recently bought the Lotus Esprit in one ofrm or another, making a lot of people viewing it and increasing the interest in the marque and model. I think prices are slowly creeping up. And some ar already overwhelmingly overpriced, such as the Sport300 in Germany (I think it was). But then Again, most if not all other sportscars from other brands have already skyrocketed beyond recognition. Even a lousy Ford Escord RS Turbo, which is in no way an interesting car (after trying one). Kind regards, Jacques

While not driving vans in Patagonia, they did bring the Esprit and it did fare very well, even a farewell at the end... I'm sure none of the aforementioned vans would have made it. Jacques