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Everything posted by Jacques

  1. Looking good and good thoughts on the matter. I think there was a scheme showing the stiffness for a variety of cars, incl. the normal Esprit, the Sport300 as well as the X180R, where you can see, that the stiffness in chassis on the X180R is just a lot higher. And... if you see or hear about an EMCO or Holloway set, please notify me asap, and I'll sell my GTO (higher geared still) set to you if you still want one by that time. Kind regards, Jacques
  2. So, if you can copy that, and the body is off, and you'll use the car for tracking, do the cage instead. I would in that case, meaning ability to run stiffer springs etc. Kind regards, Jacques
  3. The x180r cage - rear - is far stiffer than the Sp300 solution. Kind regards, Jacques
  4. Okay, so we need to have it scanned or measured up and spoken to a carbon specialist. I will try to see if I can find someone around here, who could possibly so some of that. Kind regards, Jacques
  5. Erik, I think it should be somewhat updated, as the Sp300 engine brace aluminium part is really heavy. I am sure, a carbon fiber version with high strength and stiffness, could be made and resemble the aluminium part in shape and form. I would certainly like to have such a version for my car. I can take a few pics if need be? Kind regards, Jacques
  6. So, I am right now building a new complete late type gearbox, stronger casings, bigger bolts, stronger special clutch, special flywheel, late type endcase and mec. with no translator, taller 5'th gear, Quaife lsd, late type gearmaster, exhaust bracket, cables, one piece primary shaft, higher 1'st and 2'nd gear, stronger metals and so on. Only problem is that the gentleman who sold me a primary shaft kit is not a gentle as it would have seemed, as it's not the advertised Holloway kit, (which is Emco) but a Derek Bell/GTO/Quaife kit, which it taller 1'st and second still. Great kit, but not suitable for my my driving. It would suit a track car or a race car or a V8. I need the Holloway or the Emco kit. As I seem not to be able to advertise, I will do it here, and ask if anyone got a used or unused Emco or Holloway kit or willing to swap kit + eventually some payment, please give me a PM. Till then, everything is on a halt, I'm afraid. Kind regards, Jacques
  7. Meanwhile at the garage, I am assembling the new (lightly used second hand primary Holloway axle and it's assorted parts. So, I've now reached the point where I am trying to install a bearing, which in the original installation is part no. 23 page 47,08B in the parts manual (1990SE), and of course the new axle being thicker, needs a bigger inner diameter bearing, and it is supplied with the kit. But, it just slides nicely over the axle, which I think it not meant to be so, as it would spin on the axle itself, rather than roll the rollers... So, axle is 26mm and bearing is 26mm inner diameter. What is the consensus here, should I get another nearing slightly smaller inner dia, and install and in that case, how much smaller? Or should I lock it in with a bearing "glue"? Advices much appreciated. Kind regards, Jacques Picture shows the affected area. Bearing is a French SNR N10755.
  8. Thanks John, I'll do that then. Kind regards, Jacques
  9. Thanks Mike. I will not use any o-ringes then. And I guess there is a margin for sealing it experimentation, when I reach that point. May I also ask to the use of the 8 (10) bolts to crownwheel housing. Are they always renewed or can they be reused? I looked up the bolts on SJ's webpage, and they have a different look to the bolt head. Is that a general use for the purpose bolt or was there possibly a change in execution of said bolt from Lotus? Kind regards, Jacques
  10. Thanks Peter and Giniw. I'll look into it immediately. Kind regards, Jacques
  11. Okay, so used a big rubber hammer and knocked at it all the way round and it separated, so no worries. I guess I just became tired the other day So, upon lifting out the secondary, the primary and the differential, I inspected things and they look okay for now. Closer inspection is needed. - Question: I was told that one can use a tell tale paste that one apply on all teeth and spin them and see where they touch and thereby where they don't, and can tell about the wear, not always visible. Has anyone used that and if it's a good idea and eventually where to get it? - Another question: I pulled the big bearings from the differential, and took it all apart. I guess it's probably a good idea to change those two differential bearings regardless? - And the 10 bolts holding the crownwheel, two of those are longer and lock some parts of the original differential. Using a new Quaife, I need 10 new bolts the manual says, so it's either that or reusing the old ones and cut off the tip on those two longer ones. I tend to use 10 new (all short) bolts, but want to ask about the view on renew or reuse on here? - Finally I want to ask regarding the o-ring on the diff axles. On the original, there's a recess for the o-rings. On the Quaife, there's nothing. So, is the consensus to install two new o-rings on the Quaife anyway, or are they redundant? Kind regards, Jacques
  12. Will try that with great caution. Thanks Steve. Kind regards, Jacques
  13. Wedges. Do you mean for example small wooden ones? Or another form of action? For the moment, I can only detect a difference in sound, meaning the one side have loosened a tiny bit. No visual confirmation or say a visible gap, hence the question. Kind regards, Jacques
  14. Mnaaaa, nothing is for sale I am afraid. I need it all to make up my new supershifter/superbox. I've been collecting parts for the project through the last 4-5 years, albeit very slowly, but hey, such is life sometimes. One get held up by "funny" situations, such as loosing the garage and pit, breaking of the daily bicycle aluminium frame, building nice little parts in titanium for my Laverda SFC1000, building a new mountain bike, laying a new roof on a friends house, lots of gardening including my roses, building a new pc, but this time with the aid of an old Mac Pro case with all internals (fun) and looking into the mac wiring and make it all work with pc internals for mac buttons etc, rebuilding my Copland cd-player with a whole different Teac P-70 drive and servo board, measuring lots of tubes for my amplifier and breaking them in until I finally found the ones I need, photography jobs, renovating my Corrado G60, lots and lots of extra work, being on this forum and of course that darn covid crap, just to name a few. And of course, I am also married Erik: what do you need? Kind regards, Jacques
  15. Right, so I began taking another gearbox apart to possibly make it a donor box with regards to the secondary main axle and some gears etc. for my supershift/superbox project. Or as they say: "New year - new box". I took the bellhousing off, the end cover off, the 5'th gear and assembly off, and sequentially loosened and removed all the bolts that hold together the gearbox halves. Now I am trying to split the box. In the manual it says that one may want to use a plastic hammer to tap on the 4 small flanges that is available; one front uo, one down, one rear up and one down. I did. A lot, like in may times. Many. So, I got to a point where I can hear from the sound that one side is slightly apart, but not really visible yet. The opposite side (let's say the underside) is stuck. I got to a point where my hammering arm got really tired and my quality plastic/rubber hammer is worn out. Any advice as to persuade it to split? Little Red Riding Hood is away from home and cannot see this happening, but I rest assured that she will like an improved box/shifter etc. for which I've been collecting parts for the last few years. Kind regards, Jacques
  16. I may add, that I followed an advice from a member on here, local to me btw, and cut up the thread on the slave cylinder to suit the fitting already crimped on by SWLC where I bought a braided clutch hose kit. This way I did not need to add an extra adapter fitting. Direct as it should and less chance of a leak. Kind regards, Jacques
  17. I have a brand new late type gearmaster, and I borrowed it to PNM for a period so they could draw it up and make replicas for production and sale. As I understand it, they want to create a complete set with gearmaser, brackets, cables and the endhousing as well. You may call them and ask how it's going on that project. Kind regards, Jacques
  18. Okay, will do. Well, at least there's a clear positive development long term, it would seem. Kind regards, Jacques
  19. All these jobs are amazing. So many Esprits ran around for years and years with little or no real attention and maintennance. And this very genuine intereest in maintaining and correcting all former errors and neglect, is most pleasing to see and read about. I am sure, that in this (perhaps) last decade of freely driving high octane sportscars, will see most if not all Lotus Esprits restored to their former glory and performance, some standard, some ever so oem+, but all to a high standard, including this particular car. Let's all then go drive and enjoy our sportscars while it's possible. Kind regards, Jacques
  20. And some special tools ordered... Happy New Year! Cheers, Jacques
  21. Agreed. Sure, in many many positions in society, it's mandatory to behave responsably and I wish the same could be said about many a government. Cheers, Jacques
  22. Thanks gentlemen. Well, something is in the forge. Cheers, Jacques
  23. Such a great picture, and it also makes it easy to spot the difference between an Esprit and a lorry (in the middle). Kind regards, Jacques
  24. It would seem that that freedom you describe in the UK is not present in all other countries. I, for example, do not have to take a jab by force or law, but I may loose my job if I don't. So where's the choice? I think we are soon to reaching a point in the whole debacle, where it is obvious that there will be a widespread common immunity at most people, and that the newest form in omicron and it's 64 versions, are multiplying 70 times faster in the upper respiratory area, compared to all earlier versions. As it is not as bad as attacking mostly in the alveoli, there's a much higher survival rate and lesser symptoms, easier overcome etc. Apart from those who are weak because of other general problems, such as heavy smoking, drinking, excessive eating of unhealthy food, lack of exercise and of course, old age. Unless something far more serious pops up by mysterious coincidence, I think this will slowly die out by itself, and it's about time we look carefully at what is being forced or not in all countries and societies. Best wishes of best of luck. Kind regards.
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