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Jacques

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Everything posted by Jacques

  1. Hello all, I am looking to buy an old Lotus Esprit S4/S4s/Sport300 non-airbag model steering wheel. It does not matter if the outer rim is worn or scruffy, but the spokes and center pad must be nice. Kind regards, Jacques
  2. Noble? You know you want it... Kind regards, Jacques
  3. And it's still looking SO much better than, seriously, most other cars, sport models or not. Kind regards, jacques
  4. Now ordered. Looking forward to the SE, the Sport300 and the B8's plus as mentioned by Tom, the Essex. Cheers, Jacques
  5. That may be, bit I think they are already available. Meanwhile, I am sticking to old school 100 octane as in V-Power. Well not so old school, but certainly better than the coming cow pee. Kind regards, Jacques
  6. Hello Scott, I originally noticed pnm advertising for hte stainless steel fuel cross over pipe on the webshop, and since that is also heavy, I wanted an aluminium version instead. They don't make that, and when I asked them, they said it's because the raw aluminium does corrode. When anodize it, I replied, and so they did one anodised aluminium fuel cross over pipe for me. Quite some waiting time, but if you want one, they'll make you one. It's very nice made and works perfectly. That is the only source I know of. Perhaps someone else can make you one, if you cannot yourslef. I don't have
  7. Yeah, you know the kind - tourists who lie down at the road side in their smart camuflage clothing, with a huge binocular to spot some very rare small bird. You simply don't notice them. The Esprit hammers through a corner, the deep frontspoiler creates a vacuum that sucks up the poor guy, gets a twist and a carousel tour around the drive axles and is then spat out between the exhausts. Noone notices really, apart from removing a bit of the strap from the binoculars twisted around the radius arm, when doing your next oil change. Pretty normal. Kind regards, Jacques
  8. Erik, As said, those bucket seats can be bought from SJ's in copy. Should work well, apart from a rumour (not been confirmed) that the brackets may need a bit of attention to suit. Either bare shells or trimmed to your likeing. And they also offer the shells with a carbon layer on top of the back. The original black paint is not slick but kind of knobby. Kind regards, Jacques
  9. Yes, unless you want to redo the surface on the radius arm itself, no need to take apart the whole suspension. Have a variety of shims ready. Old model are split, newer are one piece. If it resembles the Stevens cars, the bracket and the shims can be had in stainless if one so wish. Shims can be changed when doing the geo, without taking everything apart again. Note: When Lotus did their Lotac bush program, they changed the inner diameter from 7/16" to 12mm, demanding a 12mm bolt, and the tube in the radius arms to be reamed up to 12mm. I did so, and it works fine. If
  10. I used a piece of soft heat insulation like on the picture, which contaníns some layers of aramid and a silver foil layer, and fastened it with some metal ties. Works well and is still intact after a few years. The ties are those that is often used to hold drive axle rubber boots in place. I got the same poly gearbox mounts as you. To be installed once I have new bolts etc. but everything is closed over here. Kind regards, Jacques
  11. Bibs, you're still the man, when it comes to helping! Without you and your friends new beemer, I wouldn't have had those wheels. I promise you they grip the asphalt SO hard. Cheers, Jacques
  12. Thanks. Fortunately and thanks to my very active guardian Angel, I am Looking very good. But seriously, you can spare the engine mounts, no need to renew those, they look really fresh. How about the gearbox mounts? I would install a piece of heat insulation on to the frame tube closest. I did that on mine, to protect the galvanising. Kind regards, jacques
  13. It was minus 9 degrees cel. outside today, so I only got 15 deg cel. in the garage. Maybe I should turn the heat on. I got a bit tired of scrubbing the chassis from underneath the car, cleaning all the hoses etc. today being on the cold floor (I am not 16 any more), so went on to cleaning the original paint on my Futuras. Still miss to clean the bolt edges and the tires; took a couple of hours each to remove the tar, old glue from balancing weights, strange road debris, horse manouver, possibly a few bits from a tourist I didn't notice while being in a hurry and what not, but I believe they ca
  14. I will add that mine does not sound like in the above example on video. It's more aggressive and more raspy. Maybe it just doesn't come through on video, but I can guarantee you, that you would like the sound mine makes, if you are close to the car. Cheers, Jacques
  15. A bit louder, not much, and more raspy, more snarly. Just more mean and purposefull. Both in idle and on song. You can still sneak around but then you have to be fairly careful on the gas pedal. Other than that, and it shows it's true nature: a predator in sheeps skin or possibly more like it: a mean panther looking like a beautiful female ballet dancer - a danseuse who'll eat you raw. A superb sound by a 4 cylinder car. Better than many more intricate multicylinder sportscars, dare I say. Well, it is so on mine anyway Cheers, Jacques
  16. Good to hear taht it became possible to register and drive your beautifully restored car. I would enjoy it. Not on a daily basis, but get a Fiat of some sort for the daily driving. A 2-eleven does not sound like a daily driver, unless one wants a more extreme car for that task, even compared to the Esprit S1 Sounds more like a track car. Kind regards, Jacques ps: I would take it to the place in Sardinia, where thy shot the film originally! No matter if you sell it or keep it.
  17. Yes, that chemistry is a really dangerous very strong alkali. Just a few seconds of inhalation of the gasses it develops, and you're done: permanent lung damage. I know, because I have been exposed jsut a little bit very shortly despite protection, and I arrived in intensive emergency with strong chest pain, a very strong strange taste in the throat and lots of blood pouring out of my nose, and after some hours of blood analysis, blood cleaning and lung examination etc, I was told by the doctor, that I had no damages at all, being the only case he'd ever seen or heard of. so, I will repea
  18. Double and triple checked everything again, poured 10 Liter of 100 ocatne in it and fired it up. No leaks, also no leaks when warm. Those new fuel hoses and fuel cross tube works fine. Painted a line over screws to see if they moved and they didn't. Will look it over again a few times as it drives, but that won't be for a long time yet. So over to something more to keep thing in check. Kind regards, Jacques
  19. So you haven't had fuel in them yet? What type of fuel do you normally use? Kind regards, Jacques
  20. Yes, that seems to be the tool for working with fuel hoses Have you had them long enough time to say something about the quality? Kind regards, Jacques
  21. Being really cold outside with -11,9 deg. cel plus a chill factor, it's nice to spend a little time in the garage working on Little Red Riding Hood. I had taken the lower fuel cross pipe off, together with the old fuel hoses, and circular flaps for the tanks, the circular clamps drilled out, and cleaned up the ground wires from the tanks to the frame. Nothing wrong with the old parts, but after 30 years, I think it's time to renew them. The new fuel hoses I had ordered as originals (always), but received something else. Now I donøt know if they are a newer type or some aftermarket stuff.
  22. Good progress all the same. Kind regards, Jacques
  23. That is some serious work, Andrae! Well done. Really looking forward to follow your work. Kind regards, Jacques
  24. You certainly won't regret the hi-temp ones. And take a set for between the manifold and the turbo as well. The normal ones are darker and not so hi-temp. resistant. It's the light grey that are. But they are clearly described on pages from those who sell them. Linky: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/dk/demon-tweeks-metric-hi-temp-aerospace-locknut-k-nut-243561/ or: https://www.facebook.com/MerlinMotorsport/posts/2780024175350292?comment_id=2787105147975528 or: https://www.motorsportpartsaustralia.com.au/product/1-4-unf-6-point-hi-temp-k-nut/ for the over seas gu
  25. I used hi-temp. K-nuts. No need for anything else and they won't move unless worked on. As they are a bit smaller, it also leaves a bit more room for working on them, if the manifold have to be removed some day. Very good solution. Kind regards, Jacques
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