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Everything posted by Jacques

  1. Yes, I was speaking about the dowels. I am trying to find the eventual differences between the SE bellhousing and the GT3 bellhousing. Kind regards, jacques
  2. I believe they are the same, apart from two locating dowels, which had to fit the V8 engine, I was told. Kind regards, jacques
  3. Meanwhile here in Denmark, many of the same talks were similar. But when schools reopened, there was no rise in affected people. Then most of the working people returned to their jobs, there have been no rise in affected people. It is also found that children are pretty good in handwashing, in fact better and more often than grown ups who now are getting sloppy because "they know better". I have been on work during the whole time, and I have found children to be very worried about getting ill and I've had to have talks with them to ease their worries, and to be honest, they are
  4. Is that a scale 1:64? Kind regards, jacques
  5. Ha ha! Thanks. I will write them to ask more specifically for their charger and the Voltage on the battery. Kind regards, jacques
  6. Hi Andy, I spoke to Shorai and it's (now defunct) Danish importers as well, and it is very clearly stated, that ANY modern trickle charger is strictly forbidden to use on a LiFe battery, as it will destroy the cells. Some modern chargers can be manually set to avoid this, but most are automatic with a series od various "programmes" to get a lead acid, old school, or a little newer AGM battery going. I think that in this day and age, a special charger is needed for every single application. Unfortunately. Anyway, my 9 year old Shorai LiFe in carbon casing, is super duper going st
  7. Have you looked into the fuel pump? It may cause you trouble. Mind you, the cheap low octane fuel is full of p.e, which is quite harmfull to our cars. Hence I use only v-power 100 octane. Kind regards, jacques
  8. Hi all, I'd like to know if there's any differences between the GT3 bellhousing and the 1990 Turbo SE one? Or are they the same or just somewhat nterchangable? Kind regards, jacques
  9. All right, I take it as it's fine. I have had a Shorai on my Laverda motorcycle (with computer controlled ignition module and electronic charging regulator) for over 9 years now, and it functions flawlessly and super powerfull. No maintenance and no charging during Winter, and best kept in a semi-cool environment - aka my garage or basement. I think I'll jump that bandwagon. If it toasts something, I may pick up a new Sport300 ecu... I can read on their website, that the designated charger charges with up to 14,,6 Volt. A bit heavy. Maybe one shoul always disconnect tthe battery befo
  10. Sounds good so far, but does someone know what is the Voltage limit that the ecu can handle without any problems? Kind regards, jacques
  11. Thanks. Did you have to undo the spring inside and the collets and pull the cross shaft axle out to be able to renew the seals? Kind regards, jacques
  12. HI all, I've jsut replaced the battery after 10 years of good service, with a new VArta Blue line. Fits right in and works as advertised. No problemo. So, anything can be improved, and since I've now run Shorai LiFe for near 10 years on my Laverda, why not on the Esprit? Take a look at for example this site: Before I buy one, I'd like to hear if anyone have any experience on the matter. Is the voltage too high for the cars electronics, bulbs, ecu and other parts? Or is it doable? Any real world experie
  13. So I finally got the bracket off, by means of acetone/atf mic plus a very big puller plus a induction heater. It came loose little by little with a knacking sound and moving a tiny bit. Rust alone did that. Moving on to the next phase. Cheers, jacques
  14. Hello everyone, I acquired an old latest type gearcase endhousing. Through that is the cross shaft which have one cable connector welded on to it's left side, and the other cable connector pressed on to the right side and secured with two roll pins. I have removed the two toll pins and am now struggling with getting the right side bracket off, Lever arm cross shaft, part no, A082F4179F in 1996-2004 parts list. I have tried a puller with long extensions to no avail. Is there anything extra that I have to remove, or is it just really stuck on, possibly rusted or maybe conical?
  15. Are you creating a vacuum that pushes the seal out when you let go of the pressure from the tool? If so, use the tip of a needle ever so slightly under the edge by lifting it a tiny bit to release the vacuum. I have done similar when I had seals popping out on a mtb fork I was resealing. Kind regards, jacques
  16. Mike, sorry to see all these hours gone, but better now than later. I would probably get it re-galvanised. Kind regards, jacques
  17. It may be finding it's way here as well. Jacques
  18. Went on a drive on my favourite back roads today, to see how the new bushings, geo-adjustments, deeper lower front spoiler and suspension plus a few bits and bobs performs. I've yet to see how it performs in very fast curves, but for back road driving and a zip on the freeway, this goes a long mile. The following is my driving report on the new setup. So, what was it like? In a sumarization: A vast improvement, to say the least. Try to follow me here on the list below. - less crashy. - firm, but not super hard. - controlled, damping and rebound. - ride qualit
  19. He just released another good video on Lotus Esprit. Well done Tim. Kind regards, Jacques
  20. Hi Cor, Sure, will do. I agree, they look terribly long and out of place. For now I need to bleed the brakes. I will circle around town today and see if I can find a one-way valve so I can do it on my own. The two bolts are bought as original bolts. There are 3 lenghs: 30,34 and 45mm. I undid the medium ones, and the ones I bought from one of the usual suspects, were too short... So I opted for the long one. As I am still adjusting things, and may possibly readjust to a final setting of shims and shimplates rear, I will install shorter ones, right before reinstalling the funny maze,
  21. Went under the car for some 10 hours today, to reinstall the radius arms, bushings, fittings. As usual there's something that shows up and that I want to attend to in the same time. So I installed new titanium snubber washers for the rear link arms and the radius arms. That saved 400 gr. It's a little bit tight to torque down the main 12mm bolt for the radius arm, so I used this little attatchable fork to be able to torque them to spec. Then I took the locknuts off, and installed new ones, only letting them loose on the thread. Likewise for all the other bushed joints. So I will ask a cou
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