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Everything posted by Jacques

  1. The nut came off with no drame when on the car. I have the radius arm at home now, and mixed atf and acetone in an oil can and lube it every hour. We'll see how that works maybe tonight. If that atf&acetone mix works, I'll be sure to mention it here. Thanks, Jacques
  2. Thanks, I'll try that. I have bought an assortment of the newer shims, for the same reason. I think as the offending bolt in the right side arm is already on the floor, me working on it, that it's corroded to the inside of the radius arm. I'll atttack it tomorrow. Have you tried mixing acetone and automatic transmission oil as a dissolver/penetrating lubrification Kind regards, jacques
  3. I forgot to mention, that BIG hammer didn't help either. If I apply more force, I will smash the radius arm. So I am kind of stuck too. Kind regards, Jacques
  4. It's been a hard days night, and I've been workin' like a dog. Everything loose, both arms off and on the floor, but one bolt STUCK in the right side arm. I've tried heat, cold shock, torque (not to break it), penetration fluid, but to no avail. Good ideas are very very wellcome. Kind regards, Jacques
  5. Hej Lars, Nej, en større afgang på en turbo motor kan give mere effekt. Det sker bl.a. ved at den forbrændte gas kan komme hurtigere væk fra topstykket. I modsætning til en sugemotor, som er mere afhængig af et vist modtryk. Der er lige lavet en video på flutube om en amerikaner v8 som er tunet, turbo o.s.v. Og den får større og større afgang - mere og mere effekt. Jeg har selv en alunox bananmanifod på min SE, og den giver tidligere og bedre (hurtigere) spool up, mere effekt og mere bundtræk. Når det så er sagt, passer den bedst sammen med nogle andre modifikationer, så som turbo, større
  6. Thanks a lot for the explanation. It has never been worked on , except for now. This seems also to underline the importance of how (at which position) the suspensionrelated bolts are tightened under load of two persons in the cabin and ½ full tanks, as the twist or preload in the bushings are different, and the values of effect they represent under various suspension travel, are different, thereby affecting height, and thereby also affecting bumpsteer as a consequence of wrong height to turn - wrong angles to certain input. I'll have to think a method to set this up. On another
  7. In that case, would you, with the mods I have made, suggest a slight toe in or a toe out? And what level of wear are we talking about? Kind regards, jacques
  8. Today I reset front toe to 0 and rear camber to 1,1°. We'll see how it fares. Actually, I am very interested in how Little Red Riding Hood will drive, as I have done quite many thing at one time, without testing each thing seperately. Usually I do only one thing and then drive to see how it performs. This way I can also better have a feel for what it actually does. But, all these things were necessary, so it had to be in one stage. even though measuring wheel arch height cannot be used to set suspension, I measureit and can later on see, if something I do to the car, combined with re
  9. Full geo - the old way. To make it more complete, I describe here again, what I did. I hope that I did it right and maybe it's useful to someone out there. Or just myself, for next time I do it. The old way worked well. Spent the day in the bat cave setting up my LEGO system - Lotus Esprit Geometry Optimisation. My wanted numbers are a mix of SE and Sport300 as I altered the car away from SE spec. 1/ Leveling the floor, having shim tiles ready, placing the car center on the surface. Floor is dead level. 2/ Setting dampers to 70mm each (from under spring lock rings to top of b
  10. Spent the day in the bat cave setting up my LEGO system - Lotus Esprit Geometry Optimisation. My wanted numbers are a mix of SE and Sport300 as I altered the car away from SE spec. 1/ Leveling the floor, having shim tiles ready, placing the car center on the surface. Floor is dead level. 2/ Setting dampers to 70mm each (from under spring lock rings to top of bottom housing). 3/ For fun measuring fender height. Max deviation is 3mm left-right-front-rear-cross. 4/ measuring ride height front and rear. 5/ setting dampers to 12 clicks from hardest (a bit over mid-way - sta
  11. Right, so spent some time today in the bat cave, cleaning the floor, measuring the floor for deviations of being level, and found to my nice surprise, that it's only deviating 3mm over a length of 6 meters. So made up some very thin geo-shims for my LEGO system (Lotus Esprit Geometry Optimization), ready to level the car completely. Also spent some time taking wheels off and on the car a few times to decide my present ride height. For now, I've settled for raising the front 20mm over the previous setting and leaving the rear as is. I'll remeasure it tomorrow with my rideheight tool. The u
  12. Nope, tou're both wrong. It is of course baby Loch Ness monsters. They are migrating to another lake. Obviously. If you don't believe me, than post the picture on a genuine Loch Ness forum, and see what happens Kind regards, jacques
  13. Ha ha! Yeah, the Danish NHS equivalent kindly asked everyone via national tv, to lessen the amount of home rebuilding projects as well as extreme gardening projects, as they have too many damaged people coming in... Kind regards, jacques
  14. So spent some time fiddling with turning the connecting arm from uprights to steering rod ball joints, the right way Anyway, torqued everything to spec, regreased wheel bearings and used spring scale to adjust it. The biggest problem here is inserting a new grease cup... Any ideas? (I filed down the edge in an angle to ease it, but no help really). I know that endfloat is not shown correctly here, but I got carried away and began to measure all sorts of places just to see if it was okay, and it was. And the brake surface is also perfectly centralised and with no side to side deviati
  15. I did as Chris did, and also remember to have the lower suspension damper bolt/nut to lower wishbone arm loose too. Two up, half tank, and then tighten. I loosen all the related bolts both front and rear, as I find that ride height, and thereby camber, toe and castor changes ever so slightly, if only setting one end. I also cleaned up the steering rod thread, possibly with a refresh cutter (I had to cut those two nuts). Reason for doing so is, that once fiddleing with bushes, I had to readjust the steering ball joints on their thread as a consequence. Might want to do that while there's s
  16. Got some new purple polybushes for the front arb, as one split on installation. Installation tool didn't work, so made my own method and that works really well. The new one just popped in and sit right where it should. I then spent one hour with a friend on here, to push the right hand side lower wishbone home. Now sits well. Then spent two hours today trying to loosen up the two nuts that lock the steering ball joints in place. Wouldn't so took out my trusty Proxxon mini tool, and cut them. Two minutes later and one nut came off. Cleaned up thread, lubricated and installed new nut.
  17. Today dentists, hairdressers and many other small private shops can reopen. Extra precaution is needed doing their service. All bars, café's etc. are still closen down. Kind regards, jacques
  18. As Denmark opened up apprx. half of the school classes last Tuesday, they are now talking about opening up even more, like small shops - hairdressers etc. earlier than first predicted. Hope it doesn't backfire. But at least a small degree of return to normality. Around 12 people die of the chinese virus every day here. And patients in respirators are slowly lowering day by day, to "only" 72 today, Thursday. Kind regards, Jacques
  19. I've saved on spending moeny, not buting stuff I don't really need. I onsly bought food and some hard needed Lotus Esprit parts. See, that was easy. Kind regards, jacques
  20. Thanks for the observations. Derek, I believe that the new bushings are sitting perpendicular to their mountings, but I could be wrong. So, As I measured the width of the red poly LOTAC bushings to be the same width as the original rubber bushings, I also realised that they have quite a different shape. The original rubber bushings round off a bit each end, and have a semi-large more flat like endings. Where as the red LOTAC polybushings are ending their outer metal sleeve earlier, and the inner metal tube with a little bit of red polyurethan preotrudes a few mm each end. But as I said, t
  21. I measured the width of both new upper ball joints to be 37,6mm each. Kind regards, jacques
  22. I'll go measure tomorrow and write back here. Kind regards, jacques
  23. yep, they are brand new LOTAC poly bushings. But i can take the arms off and measure if the inner tube runs parallel to the arm they are inserted in. They are not hard to press in (I also froze them first) and they shouldn't be damaged. Kind regards, jacques
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