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Everything posted by Jacques

  1. Note to self: If you so it yourself, Lotus uprated Lotac bushing programme: the radius arm bushing went from 7/16" to 12mm diameter through stud, and therefore need the other stud, nuts etc. And then you need to drill the tube inside the radius arm up to spec. Btw. the bracket that sit around the radius arm front mount shim-plates, also exists in stainless if one so cares. It's a little bit tedious to change it all, but then it's fresh and you can actually depend on what you measure and adjust to, rather than old worn bushings. Some people seem to use new 12mm bushing with old thinner stud, and that would not be a good idea... Kind regards, Jacques
  2. I second that. Mine was incorrectly installed, and tramlined badly. After I took it all apart. All. I noticed that it was not correctly installed with shims etc. Then I installed as per procedure and I chose my own mix of SE, V8 and Sport300, because of wheels, tires etc, it steers very well, no problems. So, start with fresh bushings and inspect the arms that some people sometimes think they can lift the car on... And they often misinterpretate the installation of shims, hence they sit incorrectly. And btw. you can do a full geo yourself. Take your time, use a string and 4 stands, a ruler, a few thin plastic floor pieces to level the car with if need be, a pencil and a roll of painters tape, and angle measurement, or camber thingy, and a level floor. It takes some hours and a pot of tea, but then it's not that hard And you'll thank yourself. I did it myself last year, and the car never drove so well, as after that work. Well worth your time and effort. Have a set of shims for the front and rear ready beforehand. They come in stainless nowadays, if one so cares for. Kind regards, Jacques
  3. Thanks. but my alunox is already in place. How often to change engine mounts? Kind regards, Jacques
  4. I've also installed K-nuts on mine - the high temp grade, that is. Ver satisfied. No loosening etc. Kind regards, Jacques
  5. A completely normal day in the English countryside, with absolutely nothing out of the ordinary happening - peacefullness and calmness as always, with two typical English blokes having made a bet over a pint at the local pub, on who is going to reach work from home first, each using his preferred means of silent, quiet and meaningfull eco-friendly transportation to complete the task at hand, as it would happen on any given day... Proof given that not even a local cow bother turning it's head or even lift an eye, and local fishermen doing their daily job without any disturbance. Carry on. Jacques
  6. So, because it took so long time and the weather was really nice yesterday, so I had to leave it and drive out in the sunset; I then did the left side gearbox mount yesterday and the right hand side this evening. All good now. I've summarized the steps I did over on my own build thread "Little Red Riding Hood". Nope, all new bushings, bolts, shims, full geo, the lot. Just need two pin up girls to sit in the car, while I tighten the bushing-bolts. so, next up is changing engine mounts. Do people use the standard items, or is there something to be gained here? And to those who run an alunox exhaust manifold: do you have enough space for the left side engine mount bolt to pass up and out? Or can for example the left side be solved by supporting the engine and then loosen the central bolt and also remove the engine mount stay from the engine block, by removing the bolts and swing/turn/flip/tilt it out and away? (there's not much space to maneuver things below the alunox exhaust manifold, hence the question). Kind regards, Jacques
  7. Hi Tom, No, cannot say yet, as I need other projects to be finished, before I can drive I expect the gearbox to be in tight check, not moving about. The cylindrical item is an ordinary old school fuel filter that dampens the plopping sound from the vacuum pump. Kind regards, Jacques
  8. Meanwhile at the batcave, ehrmmm the foxhole, ignoring the current garage situation, I decided to change both gearbox mounts for my new poly gearbox mounts, bolts etc. So, because it took so long time and the weather was really nice today, so I had to leave it and drive out in the sunset, I did the left side gearbox mount as follows: Procedure for changing gearbox mounts on Stevens Esprits: 1/ remove top heat cover for left side engine mount. Leave the others in place (the heat shield maze). 2/ loosen both engine mounts. 3/ loosen and remove 4 pcs 8mm bolts on gearbox mounts 4/ jack up left side rear wheel/side panel. 5/ remove left rear wheel. 6/ jack up a bit left rear hub under the suspension body, not the aluminium rear hub itself. 7/ loosen and remove the lower inner end strut arm's bolt and flip the arm down a bit. 8/ cut a pcs of lumber and jack up the gearbox in front of the spot where it meets the "Y" engine cradle. 9/ This only goes up to a point where the rest of car will begin to lift, so don't do that of course. 10/ twist and shout (pull) until the old rubber gearbox mount comes free. It's tight, but doable. 11/ a lot more twist and shout pressing and twisting and pushing the new poly-gearbox mount in, plus it's big washer(-s). I installed them in titanium so shred some weight. Note: the 7/16" bolts are special low cap (head) ones, so the lower arms will have room to move when suspension travels. 12/ reinstall loosely the bolts for that side gearbox mount and flip back up the inner end of the lower arm, into it's seat. 13/ move a little bit down and then up the jack under the suspension strut/damper to allow the arm's end to be positioned correctly for it's bolt to be pushed home. 14/ tighten the bolt loosely. 15/ remove jack under suspension and reinstall rear wheel, then remove jack under the lifting point (in front of the rear wheel). 16/ do the other side. 17/ tighten all gearbox mount bolts 4 pcs 8mm bolts and 2 pcs 7/16" bolts to spec. 18/ tighten the engine mounts to spec and reinstall top heat cover. 19/ loosen the lower arm's bolts,. 4 in total, ask a couple of friend to sit in the car, ½ full tanks and retighten the 4 bolts on the two lower suspension arms. 20/ have a nice cup of tea and let the suspension settle, eventually redo wheel bolts torque and the 4 bolts for the preloaded suspension bushings. This method will not have you remove the exhaust, the rear compartment floor and it's cables, relays, coolant tank, the exhaust frame, gearcables, translator and what not. This method will allow you to change the central through bolts on the gearbox mounts and it's washers etc. Easy peasy; well, most of it anyway Sorry for the dirt on the pics; that's all cleaned up by now. Kind regards, Jacques
  9. Thanks Ian. I was also thinking of removing the two aluminium gearbox supports (stays), so I could try to minimize the need to lift the whole gearbox. As you say, it may be required to remove the exhaust frame. I'll report back here, once I find out. Thanks! Kind regards, Jacques
  10. Hi all, I'd like to get some tips on how to change the gearbox mounts as mine are old and would probably do with a new set, that I have ready. So, as I understand it, there seems to be a few methods for this: 1/ removing top nut, washer and the two gearbox mount frame bolts (M8) and then lifting the gearbox. 2/ as no. 1, but also involves removing the lower strut to each hub. Something that I'd like to avoid, as I would need to re-ballast and redo all bushings etc. 3/ ? I tried no. 1, and lifting the gearbox from below by means of a piece of wood and my low bed floor jack. No good, as the engine, exhaust and actually the whole car lifts as well. So, what is the good method, if I don't want to change it's center bolts as well (the one that goes right through and is blocked by inner end of the lower strut)? Kind regards, Jacques
  11. A problem have arisen. I have to leave my garage with pit and all, as the building is going to be used for something completely different. I have trouble finding a proper place to store and work on the car, so thinking of maybe selling it all, but it would be a pity as I am neither finished with the car, nor finished driving it. Trying to figure out what to do. I have 3 high maintenance sports vehicles, and I like them all, none more than the other. Finding a proper space in or around Copenhagen is hard and very expensive, say 400-800 usd per month, which is bleedingly expensive in my humble eyes. No way I am ever leaving my cars or motorcycle in the streets. It's gone in 10 seconds or vandalized by militant vegans, children or envy people. We'll see. Kind regards, Jacques
  12. As long as we talk about a set of original OZ Futura Modular, which was made specifically for the Esprit and also other cars, say big Mercedes and others, the wheel's individual parts are made from an center 5 spoke star, an inner drum and an outer lip. All bolted together with a various number of bolts, depending on wheel diameter. Those bolts are locked with nuts on the inner drum's rearside, and loctited. A bead of sealant is then laid in the center cavity that is between the three main pars, once bolted up in the factory. Same is done if you do them yourself. The procedure of tightening is described on my own thread. Completely done, balanced, and works perfectly. The star are the most important part. The outer lips and inner drums can be bought either from OZ second hand wheels, or as copies from other brands, such as Felgenfuchs, and their aluminium outer lips or same in radinox stainless steel. Despite me moving up in width, the completed wheel with it's 315 tyre, is still lighter than for example another Lotus original wheel, such as AWI Monobloc. I used well proven bouble and acid free sealant. Running these wheels gives the Esprit (1989 onwards; not 1988 because it's got smaller wheel arches), an enormous mechanical grip. It's very noticable, and is glues to the road. Kind regards, Jacques
  13. Hmm... It turns out so, that today I took a close look at the Bosch pump I bought from an american seller some 3 years ago, and took the ends off, which then surfaced a few small green plastic threads. Those are pieces from then the original pump was there, with a green net around it. Some of it must have fallen apart and finally made it's way up and into the pump, despite a mesh filter. So, after cleaning it up, why not reinstall it, and volia, pump is running fine and my Esprit started right up. Fuel tanks are now carefully looked into for other eventual debris, but they are clean. Sounds so good after a long Winters standstill. Back to my own thread. Kind regards, Jacques
  14. Yes, and so did I. I won't re-install it. I think I am going to order a Walbro like the one I linked to. Kind regards, Jacques
  15. Here's a picture of my dead pump from Bosch, bought via fleabay from USA. Lasted 3 years. Any way to determine if this is a chinese copy? To me at least, it looks genuine. So does box and fittings which I still have. Kind regards, Jacques
  16. So it would appear. The pump that Damien links to, seems to be a totally different design, not fitting the SE. I will now look at the walbro pump, just have to find a suitable spec. I'll write that here, once it's ordered. Question: is it an absolute must to have to pulse damper on the original pump (not fitted to the Bosch)? Kind regards, Jacques
  17. All right, so I just got canned by a f.....g chinese company pretending they sell the real deal, Bosch 69218 pump. Hmmm... Fortunately paypal can step in. SO, needing a genuine Bosch 69218 fuel pump, can someone please direct me to one, or two, please? Kind regards, jacques
  18. Did that, and there is power all the way to the pump, for 2 seconds only (and 10 seconds in another mode), when ignition is turned on. So managed to se that. Out with the "new" pump, a Bosch, and an old pump on - works. Now ordering a new pump or two. Thanks! So, looking at pumps, this one came up: Does anyone have an opinion on that? Any good? Or another Bosch 69218 pump? Kind regards, Jacques
  19. Cannot start. Charged battery - fine. Ignition on, starter spins. Cannot hear pump, which is 3 y.o. run like I usually can. A bit difficult to reach pins on the 2 pin connector above tank. I can measure 12,9 Volt at the fuel pump fuse and also on the ingoing side of fuel pump relay. Car has an original (from importer) fittet Unicum alarm, which prevents start, locks the central locking etc. That seems to work fine. So, to trigger the fuel pump relay, there is a coil that moves the position from no power to pump and injectors, to power open to those. That is a wire controlled directly from the ECU. Is that wire directly going from the ecu locally, to the relay? Or is it passing by the front of the car, ignition switch, other relays, alarm cut off or? Any ideas are most wellcome. I am now going to test power on the fuel pump fuse, the fuelpump relay and the inertia switch and the closest to tank connector again (it was pretty late last night). I have changed the inertia switch and the fuel pump relay (same as some of the aircon relays) already - no go. Starter spins like mad and are fine. Is the fuel pump with it's only two wires going into the tank, a roller mechanical type, that does not depend on electrical control, and thereby deciding itself by eans of having too little or enough pressure in itself? Or is it controlled by say the ecu always? I can try to install another ecm also. Kind regards, jacques
  20. Hello all, I am looking to buy an old Lotus Esprit S4/S4s/Sport300 non-airbag model steering wheel. It does not matter if the outer rim is worn or scruffy, but the spokes and center pad must be nice. Kind regards, Jacques
  21. Noble? You know you want it... Kind regards, Jacques
  22. And it's still looking SO much better than, seriously, most other cars, sport models or not. Kind regards, jacques
  23. Now ordered. Looking forward to the SE, the Sport300 and the B8's plus as mentioned by Tom, the Essex. Cheers, Jacques
  24. That may be, bit I think they are already available. Meanwhile, I am sticking to old school 100 octane as in V-Power. Well not so old school, but certainly better than the coming cow pee. Kind regards, Jacques
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