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Jacques

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Everything posted by Jacques

  1. Derek, they are 282mm long both sides. How thick are the correct nyloc nuts supposed to be, and the same for the contranut at the rear end? Kind regards, Jacques
  2. Steve: Haha! Yes, we'll see about that use, once assembled and testdriven. Derek: I don't know now, I am at home. So I'll take the car and go measure. Kind regards, jacques
  3. Ah, okay, I re-read your earlier comments. In fact mine was done all wrong on all accounts. Not 6mm total inner left, and right hand side, of car; no 1,5mm thereof inner front, and no angle correction by moving fore and aft the chassis, plus the eventual shimplates outer... Sigh... For me, the slow one...: I need min. a total of 6mm inner each side of car. I need min. 1,5mm inner front each side of car. Now I just need to find a suitable way of measuring it, so I can insert the shims and eventual plates if going over 6mm shims. I think I got it now. Geez, it
  4. yes, despite stupidity, lack of common sense, hard to kill habits and what not, a hard upbringing, a neighbour who bullied him many years ago or a teacher who took his iphone away from him in the middle of a math-class, everyone have the right to help. Always. At least in our part of the world. As a cpntroverse, some around my waters have been debating the pay per view on medical help. I can't really say I agree, I just feel my own ego inflating, when I see another human being trying to kill him self as in the picture (if that's what it really shows). So, after a few moments of thinking along
  5. Thanks guys. So, I am making up a paper template or scheme to fill out for saving the adjsutments I end up with in the cars papers. Anyway, I have the bare setup now, no washers or shims installed. So, reading the manual, section CD, page 3, it clearly says that at all times, for clearance, there must be a 1,5mm washer inserted between the front upper wishbone arm and the chassis. My question is this: Does that mean that I should also in the same time, insert a 1,5mm shimplate between the upper ball joint and the rear upper wishbone arm, according to the text's description? Please see pictu
  6. I am not sure, but Sport300 (same width tires as mine), may have 3,5 degrees castor. Maybe someone can confirm taht? Kind regards, Jacques
  7. So, I'll go for those later values And a limited understeer to neutral, please. The Service notes states in section CD, page 3: Before vin 3582, 1 degree, 45 minutes, max 3 degrees. From vin 3582, +1 degree, 0,5 degree, -0. Would that later be sufficient (my frame relates to the 3582 onwards, or should it be more radical? Kind regards, jacques
  8. It was a couple of tries to understand why so many people are not acting according to present rules, hence many others getting upset about it So, now back to castor adjustment on the Esprit. Over and out. Kind regards, Jacques
  9. absolutely right. We see the same things happening in many countries. So ultimately, we are in it for ourselves, no one to trust in this respect, and therefore many may sooner or later realise, that they have to take care of themselves, not depending on someone else to carry them through life. The young generation where I live, seems to be divided in two: one being absolutely workaholics and breaking down mentally, when they cannot live up to their own standards, and the other being a group of eternal receiver, who openly proclaims that they don't see any meaning in getting an education,
  10. Perfect Derek. Thanks a TON! I'll see then, what gives meaning on my car as a setup. I'll make a normal correctly setup then, and suppose as you say, that my car was done by someone who did not know what they were doing, so I therefor ignore all things on the car itself, and follow standard procedures. Good that I bought a cariety of shimwashers and shimplates to have on the shelf. Maybe that is why my car always felt a bit "nervous" in keeping straight when doing an obscene amount of miles per hour? Not correct castor? Once this is done, and everything else is ready on the car, incl
  11. To me at least, there seem to be some movement towards the left wing side of politics in bad, hard times such as this. In good times, there seem to be a political movement otwards the right wing. So when people are ill, threatned with discease, have the need for health care, or under siege of some sort, they want all the functions in society like hospitals, private doctors, dentists, firedepartment, the army, paedagoger (children care takers), teachers and others, well, even banks, to be there for them, taking care of their every need. In good times, suddenly all these people are no longe
  12. Thanks for the replies. I am not sure though, that I understood it. a/ So, I understand that a minimum of 1,5 mm shim washer should always be between the front wishbone and the chassis. I don't have that. I have 0 washers in that point on both left and right side of car. b/ I understand that shims in total inner and outer - stud axles and upper ball joint respectively, should be the same, to align the upper wishbones - parallel. I have that on both left side of car and on right side of car. They are jsut not places as in the text or pictures of manual. c/ Let's take the left sid
  13. HI all, Since I renewed the suspension on the 1990 Turbo SE, I thought why not do the rest? so fast forward to today. I have just begun reassembling the front suspension, wishbones etc. So, when I took the upper front wishbones apart, I noticed the following: * there are one 3mm castor shim on each side (right and left side of car), placed just in front of the rear most upper wishbone, (parts manual says min 1,5mm for clearance under extreme movement). * there are on the left side of the car, front, one 1,5mm shimplate and one 3,0 shimplate on the rear pointing side of the upper
  14. I read it in a Romanian newsarticle, so it may be delayed as usual. No, I think a lot of people sucks up to him, so he might get a freebee. Anyway, just read he is possibly a bit more ill, that estimated at first. So best of luck for a full recovery to him and everyone else. Kind regards, Jacques
  15. I quote: " The panic set in the European continent by the new coronavirus is likely to be amplified by a news story that shakes one of the most affected countries. The tests for detecting the new coronavirus are also infected with coronavirus, writes Capital.ro, citing several European publications. The shocking disclosure was made today by the Telegraph publication, which cites sources within the London Ministry of Health. Testing laboratories across the country were warned Monday, via an email received from Luxembourg, to expect a delay in delivering new coronavirus tests, aft
  16. Seems to be M12 compared to 7/16" bolt size, which is near 0,9mm larger. I'd like to know how many on here who did that as in changing arms, drilling old arms or something different. That could be interesting to know. Anyone? Btw. is that a normal 8,8 grade bolt or a 12,9 grade steel bolt? In any case, what would be the best to use for this application? (It's the only two bushings I haven't changed yet, hence the questions). Kind regards, jacques
  17. Thanks, And you are tight, much have become easier with the internet. I'll write you a pm. Meanwhile at the Danish batcave, I had an hour or two after a long day at work, so manages to press in the 4 Lotac polyurethanebushings. Only waiting for the package from the UK with the remaining two front arb poybushings Kind regards, jacques
  18. Ha ha! No worries. The roads I prefer to drive, are usually narrow, hilly and curvy, with lots of horsemaneuver, wet leaves, dust and dirt and It's been dirty from heavy rain a few times, as I couldn't avoid it. Lower the speed and sneak home, and it doesn't skid out. I always check the weather forecast and take a look at the skies, before leaving home for a drive. If the unfortunate should happen, and it gets dirty, I usually just take a little window cleaner and a couple of micofiber cloths and voila, in just a couple of minutes, it's clean again. I don't fancy coming to a dirty car to take
  19. Spent two hours working on installing the two new lower ball joints on the front lower track arms. The big C-clamp tool set that I borrowed, did not fit a Lotus Esprit Turbo SE from 1990, so had to use my vice and a soft alujaw, not to affect the ball itself. That was pretty hard to press in, as my vice is not that big. Now in place. Had to do many other things tonight, so no more time to play with new bushings. One small step for the track arms, but a giant step for handling Cheers, Jacques Not yet fully pressed in below, but I managed to bend the adjustment rod on my vi
  20. Maybe worth reading: https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2020-03-27/stacks-of-urns-in-wuhan-prompt-new-questions-of-virus-s-toll Kind regards, Jacques
  21. So, last I spent some hours trying to find out usable front lower track arm ball joints, as the ones I have bought earlier from one of the usual suspects do not fit. They are different, for example too thin to fit te track arms. I looked up Delpi TC170, and since that is no more available, I found many replacements, some of them looking of less quality than others. I decided for these, and this morning I called a car parts dealership some 25 miles south of Copenhagen, who happened to have a supply of the oens I want. The spec count: 89mm total height, 49mm width, 14 x 1,5 thread, 49mm length,
  22. Hi all, I am an Esprit driver, not the Elise, but I saw some nice adjustable front track arm balljoints, for the Elise on Elise-shop in Holland. I would like to know if anyone on here have tried them, and how they peform? Any comments, info and experience are most wellcome. I have not seen this type of ball joint for sale anywhere else . I am interested in them, because I can try to find the sweetspot for best performance and the lowest amount of stiction on moving parts, balljoints included. And secondly, I'd like to know if they keep imensions that would suit my Lotus Esprit Turbo
  23. Here in DK, the primi minister today spoke to the nation on her weekly press meet. SHe said, that if, only if, the danes are keeping all rules to the comma, and we see a slow raising and falling curve of infected, hospitalised and dead, will she veeeeery slowly open up Denmark again after Easter. There was mentioning of stricter lock down if not, and also mentioning of everyone going into three shifts at all work places, schools etc, to minimise new contamination. Meanwhile, she said, there are going to be many more ill and dead, as it have to turn around at a slow pace to keep it under some s
  24. Not the same, but in Romania, many people are now scared of saying to a doctor, that they have synptoms of corona virus, so they try and hide it, in any way possible. They fear how the authorities are treating them, and they fear, that if they are hospitalised, they will have a lesser chance of becoming healthy, as they lack protection, equipment, ventilators, the lot. Weather this is a fact or not, noone says, but fear is controlling a lot of behaviour these days. Rich people though, can have special treatment in private hospitals. Ordinary masses do not have this possibility, unless they get
  25. A little story from Copenhagen. A big Danish company receives an order to produce 10.000 bottles of alcogel for Danish Copenhagen placed pharmacies. Then they are made, to go to the Copenhagen pharmacies, but never gets there, as there is another bigger chinese customer who orders the batch, have it specially labeled, is then shipped. So, the pharmacies never receives the shipment to distribute amongst all the Copenhagen pharmacies. The Danish authorities shortly before that, forbid the pharmacies to sell alcogel, as they want it to flow to the hospitals for the prep. of the future corona cris
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