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Posts posted by Jacques

  1. auch!

    That was bad. Really bad. I hope that the owner/driver is okay with no personal injury.

    I fully agree to the layman doing something in blindness, and not looking thoroughly on what to do and how to do it.

    One may think that as time passes by, there will be other versions of what was done and what caused it all over the web (as usual) and that lead to yet another story of lots of trouble, usually seri...., blah blah blah. Just yesterday I was speaking to a guy who recently bought a fully original 87 hci and said it drives like crap- Upon asking, I was told that dampers, belts, bushes, rack, joints etc. are all the original. So much for the "fully original perfectly stored" car. Well, the paint was good, and also the leather, but the mechanics was never serviced. And as it will come for sale soon, the asking price is 60.000 gbp. Maybe that's just market going up?

    So, good that the car is now in Davids hands to be sorted. Cannot think of many people I would entrust the car, only very very few.

    Good luck on the repair if at all possible, and let's see some more as it surfaces.

    Kind regards,


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  2. On mine it's above and was like that when I took it apart. So I placed them there when installing new oil coolers.

    It stabilizes the hose/oilcooler, so it does not wiggle about and make the hole in the body bigger. It's been 3 years since I did that, and it is absolutely well working, tight and no leaks. Once the foam opieces and the air guide fiber pieces are in place, thay also help support the oil coolers in place and lessen vibes and bumps.

    So, on mine, there was a piece of foam on top of each oil cooler (between that and the underside of the body), and on the sides and the bottom to guide air. See pics, albeit I have renewed all foam with new firesupressing pieces, painted black withe heat resistant black paint, on these pics. But I copied the exact original parts.

    Hope it helps.

    Kind regards,








  3. 11 hours ago, Vanya said:

    I just have to strip @Jacques car for some parts and then I think I'm all set. 😅😅😅




    Meanwhile I have acquired an original Sport300 front spoiler and the Speedo and rev counter also from Sport300. Plus a binnacle ;)

    You may have to wait a bit more, as more original Sport300 parts are on the way. And then some. And then some more.

    They are waiting in boxes, for the day I have time enough for the next step.

    May I remind you, that the first Sport300 had SE door handles ;) So that would be original. Not the S4 parts.

    Also, the S4s turbo is not the same as the Sport300, and also the induction hose is larger on the Sport300 (which I have also installed). It's smaller on the S4s.

    May I also remind you, that some Sport300 had factory installed aircondition, so a la SE.

    And some Sport300 came with S4 comfort seats, not the Sport300 model only bucket seat.

    The engine cover is also a modified one from the SE with the new style tailgate.

    I happen to have a set of the "tops" to be welded on the frame in a box on the desk, if you need to copy them.

    The powersteering suposedly demands removable strenghening bars on the front frame, which is welded in on the SE model with out powersteering.

    Personally, I prefer a set of rebuilt S4s wheels to adopt Sport300 width tires, over the higher profile smaller diameter Sport300 wheels.

    The Sport300 had extra bolts to hold the thin chassis in place to the frame.

    And it had thin noise dampers instead of thicker ones for the suspension (I've been told).

    And of course the uprated improved cold air supply for the front brakes.

    Some Sport300 did not come factory built with alcantara on the steering wheel, but normal leather.

    Kind regards,




  4. Good too hear. I've never used that classic oil myself, but some friends have, and they are okay with it in their 40 year old Laverda ball bearing engines. But that is another matter. I would expect the same as you have found, by shifting from Classic to Supercar. Two very different types of oil.

    But I will add to the old thread's content, that Supercar is designated so, because Castrol wanted to celebrate their approval by Köenigsegg in Sweden. That is the only difference. I called Castrol UK Headquaters recently and asked the tech department.

    And speaking of sludge, created by too much zink for example, I can add that while carmakers advertise their cars to use long life versions, these create way too much sludge, and I have personally seen many expensive heavily tuned Audi RS and VW Golf R engines (for example by HGP, which I have helped work on wither service or engine rebuilds)) full of sludge from long life oil. Just never use it. I avoid it like the covid-19. Keep a long distance ;) 

    Kind regards,


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  5. If you do so, do wrap in the braided line with something else to protect it where it passes holes in the chassis.

    First you add new gromets from the slave end on to the new line. position them to make it easier to reach to pressfit.

    attatch the old and new line.

    Pull through. Old gromets may be needed to undo and remove or just pressed back in the end.

    Instead of suing an extra adapter fitting, redril and cut the fitting thread in the slave cylinder. No need for extra fitting and extra sealing rings.

    I filed down the new fitting a little bit to make it pass, rather than drilling and filing holes in the galvanized chassis. No problem ever in that.

    Kind regards,


    • Thanks 1
  6. The nice people who lay new asphalt seems to drive 4wd jap scrap, and they probably even sit down on a memory foam pillow, while their 90 aspect tires with low pressure, run unnoticed over their uncredibly bad roadwork.

    Yesterday it happened with a positive speed over 109 km/h. Not typing which, as Danish police likes to read forums. Anyway, annoying as it is. Maybe it's just worn and became more sensitive as there is less friction and it moves easier?

    Kind regards,


    Derek: is there somthing I can do myself to overcome this?

    Kind regards,


  7. Thanks. I am a little bit in doubt if I should install the clitch project now, or wait until I have collected the remaining parts for the gearbox itself. I am a little bit tempted to do the clutch now, as it would leave me better for knowledge if something needs to be corrected.

    The optimised gearshift project is also under way, but I need my parts returned tome from England, where they have been in "quarantine" for some time, to be copied.

    Meanwhile, I am now thinking of trying to make a super gearmaster, based on the late style Mk. 3 Lotus shifter, and something entirely different. I need to have a good thorough look at how the late Mk. 3 shifter works, and go from there to see, if I can transfer the way the reverse is selected, into a mech that is more positive, more slick and more precise with a nicel "click".

    I also have a little bit of trouble separating the collets and spring inside the late stype end cover, for a different surface treatment I'd like to do.

    Meanwhile I have now experienced twice that the til over stop the fuel switch is bouncing up, while I am driving. Bad roads.... Any good ideas to make it stay put?

    More later.




  8. On 12/06/2020 at 15:34, SPADGER27 said:

    Hi does anyone know the measurement of the inhibitor pad. I roughly know the diameter from the old one. But not the measurement as per picture. TIA


    I believe it's my gearstick and as I took it off years ago, the inhibitor was worn in a strange angle, making reverse a bit strange. So I asked a frind to make me two new ones. 10mm sounds about right. I loctited it on plus the bolt of course. I also had two far more precise steel pins made, and pressed in, slightly longer in the reach, so I could delete one more source of sloppiness. The new pins are pressed in at this picture.

    Maybe I can go find the other nylon part tomorrow.

    Doing this and installing fresh translator bearings etc. was one of the very first things I did to Little Red Riding Hood after I bought it.

    Kind regards,


    ps: you should have that big bracket blasted, reshaped, galvanised and powdercoated to align things up as precisely as possible.

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