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Posts posted by Jacques

  1. A problem have arisen. I have to leave my garage with pit and all, as the building is going to be used for something completely different. I have trouble finding a proper place to store and work on the car, so thinking of maybe selling it all, but it would be a pity as I am neither finished with the car, nor finished driving it. Trying to figure out what to do. I have 3 high maintenance sports vehicles, and I like them all, none more than the other. Finding a proper space in or around Copenhagen is hard and very expensive, say 400-800 usd per month, which is bleedingly expensive in my humble eyes. No way I am ever leaving my cars or motorcycle in the streets. It's gone in 10 seconds or vandalized by militant vegans, children or envy people.

    We'll see.

    Kind regards,


    • Sad 4
  2. As long as we talk about a set of original OZ Futura Modular, which was made specifically for the Esprit and also other cars, say big Mercedes and others, the wheel's individual parts are made from an center 5 spoke star, an inner drum and an outer lip. All bolted together with a various number of bolts, depending on wheel diameter.

    Those bolts are locked with nuts on the inner drum's rearside, and loctited. A bead of sealant is then laid in the center cavity that is between the three main pars, once bolted up in the factory. Same is done if you do them yourself. The procedure of tightening is described on my own thread. Completely done, balanced, and works perfectly.

    The star are the most important part. The outer lips and inner drums can be bought either from OZ second hand wheels, or as copies from other brands, such as Felgenfuchs, and their aluminium outer lips or same in radinox stainless steel.

    Despite me moving up in width, the completed wheel with it's 315 tyre, is still lighter than for example another Lotus original wheel, such as AWI Monobloc.

    I used well proven bouble and acid free sealant.

    Running these wheels gives the Esprit (1989 onwards; not 1988 because it's got smaller wheel arches), an enormous mechanical grip. It's very noticable, and is glues to the road.

    Kind regards,



    • Like 2
  3. Here's a picture of my dead pump from Bosch, bought via fleabay from USA. Lasted 3 years.

    Any way to determine if this is a chinese copy? To me at least, it looks genuine. So does box and fittings which I still have.

    Kind regards,



  4. So it would appear.

    The pump that Damien links to, seems to be a totally different design, not fitting the SE.

    I will now look at the walbro pump, just have to find a suitable spec.

    I'll write that here, once it's ordered.


    Question: is it an absolute must to have to pulse damper on the original pump (not fitted to the Bosch)?

    Kind regards,


  5. All right, so I just got canned by a f.....g chinese company pretending they sell the real deal, Bosch 69218 pump. Hmmm... Fortunately paypal can step in.

    SO, needing a genuine Bosch 69218 fuel pump, can someone please direct me to one, or two, please?

    Kind regards,


  6. Did that, and there is power all the way to the pump, for 2 seconds only (and 10 seconds in another mode), when ignition is turned on. So managed to se that.

    Out with the "new" pump, a Bosch, and an old pump on - works. Now ordering a new pump or two.


    So, looking at pumps, this one came up:

    Does anyone have an opinion on that? Any good?

    Or another Bosch 69218 pump?

    Kind regards,


  7. Cannot start.

    Charged battery - fine.

    Ignition on, starter spins.

    Cannot hear pump, which is 3 y.o. run like I usually can.

    A bit difficult to reach pins on the 2 pin connector above tank.

    I can measure 12,9 Volt at the fuel pump fuse and also on the ingoing side of fuel pump relay.

    Car has an original (from importer) fittet Unicum alarm, which prevents start, locks the central locking etc. That seems to work fine.

    So, to trigger the fuel pump relay, there is a coil that moves the position from no power to pump and injectors, to power open to those.

    That is a wire controlled directly from the ECU. Is that wire directly going from the ecu locally, to the relay? Or is it passing by the front of the car, ignition switch, other relays, alarm cut off or?

    Any ideas are most wellcome. I am now going to test power on the fuel pump fuse, the fuelpump relay and the inertia switch and the closest to tank connector again (it was pretty late last night).

    I have changed the inertia switch and the fuel pump relay (same as some of the aircon relays) already - no go.

    Starter spins like mad and are fine.

    Is the fuel pump with it's only two wires going into the tank, a roller mechanical type, that does not depend on electrical control, and thereby deciding itself by eans of having too little or enough pressure in itself? Or is it controlled by say the ecu always?

    I can try to install another ecm also.

    Kind regards,


  8. Hello Scott, I originally noticed pnm advertising for hte stainless steel fuel cross over pipe on the webshop, and since that is also heavy, I wanted an aluminium version instead. They don't make that, and when I asked them, they said it's because the raw aluminium does corrode. When anodize it, I replied, and so they did one anodised aluminium fuel cross over pipe for me. Quite some waiting time, but if you want one, they'll make you one. It's very nice made and works perfectly.

    That is the only source I know of. Perhaps someone else can make you one, if you cannot yourslef. I don't have the tools nor the skills to do it, so I have to kindly ask someone else to make things like that.

    Anywya, I am most satisfied.

    Kind regards,


    ps: so far, no teeth found ;)

    • Like 1
  9. Yeah, you know the kind - tourists who lie down at the road side in their smart camuflage clothing, with a huge binocular to spot some very rare small bird. You simply don't notice them. The Esprit hammers through a corner, the deep frontspoiler creates a vacuum that sucks up the poor guy, gets a twist and a carousel tour around the drive axles and is then spat out between the exhausts. Noone notices really, apart from removing a bit of the strap from the binoculars twisted around the radius arm, when doing your next oil change. Pretty normal.

    Kind regards,


    • Haha 2
  10. Erik, As said, those bucket seats can be bought from SJ's in copy. Should work well, apart from a rumour (not been confirmed) that the brackets may need a bit of attention to suit. Either bare shells or trimmed to your likeing. And they also offer the shells with a carbon layer on top of the back. The original black paint is not slick but kind of knobby.

    Kind regards,


  11. Yes, unless you want to redo the surface on the radius arm itself, no need to take apart the whole suspension.

    Have a variety of shims ready. Old model are split, newer are one piece.

    If it resembles the Stevens cars, the bracket and the shims can be had in stainless if one so wish.

    Shims can be changed when doing the geo, without taking everything apart again.

    Note: When Lotus did their Lotac bush program, they changed the inner diameter from 7/16" to 12mm, demanding a 12mm bolt, and the tube in the radius arms to be reamed up to 12mm. I did so, and it works fine.

    If you prefer the rubber bushings, they still are made for the old slightly thinner bolt system.

    I just though it would be worth mentioning, before you take it apart.

    Kind regards,


    • Like 1
  12. I used a piece of soft heat insulation like on the picture, which contaníns some layers of aramid and a silver foil layer, and fastened it with some metal ties. Works well and is still intact after a few years. The ties are those that is often used to hold drive axle rubber boots in place.

    I got the same poly gearbox mounts as you. To be installed once I have new bolts etc. but everything is closed over here.

    Kind regards,



    heat shielding.JPG

    • Thanks 1
  13. Thanks. Fortunately and thanks to my very active guardian Angel, I am ;)

    Looking very good. But seriously, you can spare the engine mounts, no need to renew those, they look really fresh.

    How about the gearbox mounts?

    I would install a piece of heat insulation on to the frame tube closest. I did that on mine, to protect the galvanising.

    Kind regards,


  14. A bit louder, not much, and more raspy, more snarly. Just more mean and purposefull. Both in idle and on song. You can still sneak around but then you have to be fairly careful on the gas pedal. Other than that, and it shows it's true nature: a predator in sheeps skin or possibly more like it: a mean panther looking like a beautiful female ballet dancer - a danseuse who'll eat you raw. A superb sound by a 4 cylinder car. Better than many more intricate multicylinder sportscars, dare I say.

    Well, it is so on mine anyway ;)



    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
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