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  1. Thanks everyone! Just wondered if you know somewhere in the area.
  2. Super - thanks for letting me know.
  3. Hi Bibbs, I ordered my Certificate of Provenance on the 7th of December, order nr 4447 - can you give me an indication of when I should expect to receive it please? Many thanks
  4. Satin black makes most sense to me as it will match the plastic trim behind the B pillar better - still, my current door window frame is glossy both inside and out, which may be due to polishing, but the interior side is glossy too which I can't imagine has received all that much polishing.. I would just like to paint it as it would be from factory...
  5. I'm having my door window frames repainted and they currently look glossy black but I'm not sure if this is due to years of polishing?
  6. My experience has been that Lotus won’t tell you any key codes, but a main dealer will, since they can physically check your documents.
  7. I have just come off the phone to Steve at SJS and he said that for a more recent car he agreed with the find-number-get-key-made approach, but for a 1985 car felt the chance of the key fitting was too slim, so he has sold me two new key mechanisms which means I’ll have to attack the current ones with a screwdriver before replacing. The mechanisms and chrome cap were about £30+vat each. He said Lotus charge around 30 for releasing information so that played a part in the decision too. Hopefully these locks aren’t very theft proof..?
  8. Thanks Stuart - is speaking to Lotus a case of phoning a switchboard in Hethel..?
  9. I noticed today the small key won’t open the fuel cap - is it the small key (see picture) the wrong key..? I seem to remember the fuel key had a small rubber handle ..or am I going mad? if -in my genius- I have indeed lost the fuel cap key, what’s the way forward?
  10. Many thanks gents - naturally I elected to take on this minor tweak whilst abroad in Holland, where I have no jack or much in the way of tools, but luckily my nearby brother in law has a good mechanic who is sympathetic to old cars, so hopefully he can have a go at this tomorrow or Tuesday. I found a Lotus specialist about an hour away also I've had a look and unfortunately there is indeed the enclosure in the way. The same brother in law has provided me with 'slightly slower' alternative transport.. I never liked these when I was young but they are bit wonderful now I feel (and it's all I've got !
  11. So there I was merrily thinking I could shift my driver's door striker a little to make the door look better seated - little did I know that the nutplate into which the bolts are screwed would just drop away on removal of the bolts. Let me find a wall to bang my head in penance, especially now that I read from others what a well known no-no this is.. From what I can read on the forum I am either in a world of pain and have to remove the entire driver's side fuel tank assembly or I may be able to retrieve the shimmy from once I remove a sill inspection cover ..are these indeed my options and if so, where is this inspection aperture.. Is it revealed on the inside sill once the under tray has been removed? And even if this enables me to retrieve the nutplate, how can I 'offer it up' again in the right place..? That fuel tank seems very close... Thanks!! 1985 Turbo Esprit
  12. I went for it and I have the skinned knuckles to prove it; I put the car on axle stands and eventually managed to pull the vacuum line out of the chassis from the engine side. From here of course there was much anxiety as to whether I'd ever be able to get a new line in, though I was happy to see that my faffing around with the vacuum gauge (and despite miss diagnosis from a professional) had led me to the right place ...clearly the decline will have started many moons ago and I have obviously rather got used to less than optimal brakes..! The replacement pipe from Lotus is no longer available, so I had one made up by Pirtek, a hydraulics company in Edinburgh. In the end, despite the minor injuries and some expletives along the way it was no worse a job than I had feared and it went in, eventually, as the old one had come out. And yes, my braking is much improved. Now that I'm on a roll, I'm thinking I might fit a non return valve in the servo line.. can't do any harm right..? Near the manifold?
  13. I have been under the car and found no issues between the rubber hoses and their connection to the metal pipe that runs through the chassis. But, I could move the metal pipe where it goes into the chassis at the front in & out by an inch or two, whereas on the engine side it is held firmly in place by a grommet. Is this steel pipe is just a single piece (ie. I should not be able to move it at the front when it is static at the back)? If it is broken (how could it break..?) then I wouldn't be getting ANY vacuum reading at the servo end (currently it's around 30% of what it should be)? Any idea what's going on here...? And has anyone replaced this pipe? Thanks!
  14. Thanks - I checked the vacuum at the end of the hose where it connects to the servo, and that's where I got the low reading - so there must be an issue between manifold and servo...
  15. Took a few more days for some tubing to arrive but finally I have a better sense of what I'm dealing with - NOT helped by the classic Porsche/Ferrari specialist in Edinburgh who seem to have given me a total bum steer on this. There IS decent vacuum at the manifold; 0.45 /15 inches on overrun - It's nicely half way up the dial, so I take it that's within the correct range? When I blank off the brake servo line -and with a new non return valve fitted- the heater flap works now - and there is no vacuum loss. There IS a leak between servo and manifold (again contrary to what the garage said) as there is only .20/6 inches on overrun at the brake servo end. If I put the car on a couple of axle stands at the front, can I have a go at tracing the servo line myself or is it a nightmare and should this only be done on a bridge? Is there a non return valve in the brake servo line, if so where? I think the front under tray needs to come off is that right? Spending 25 quid on a vacuum gauge is clearly 'the best thing I've ever done' Thanks as ever for your help!
  16. After one house move too many I am ashamed to say I appear to have lost one set of keys to my '85 Turbo.. Can they (ignition and fuel filler cap) be copied? I have always had another key that looks just like the ignition key (though without the red dot) has a different blade and so doesn't turn the ignition - any idea what that one could be for..?
  17. Thank you gents, I have just ordered a vacuum gauge so I can try see what's occurring here with greater accuracy. I'll report back.
  18. Thanks Andy - I could only blow through it one way by blowing very hard and it made a sound whilst doing so which I can't imagine is to spec.. I have ordered a replacement. I'm thinking though, if the current valve prevents the vacuum going to the heating system, if anything, the brake servo should have a little *more vacuum to work with so this doesn't appear to get to the bottom of the low vacuum issue..
  19. I'm back on the case - I spoke with Pete (who rebuilt the engine) at PME and he was very helpful; he recommended sealing off one circuit (brakes, heater controls) at a time and seeing whether that improves operation of the other. I forgot to ask him how to go about that though.. hose clamps near the cambelt seems a bad idea... Any tips? Meanwhile, my non return valve looks ancient.. (Andy), how can I test it please? Is it easily replaced with new? Thanks! (hose at the bottom of picture looks like it has seen beter days but it's not the source of any leak, sadly)
  20. Thanks gents - The garage checked for vacuum at the header rail above the manifold and found ‘practically no’ vacuum there. I don’t think he used a tee to test each of the two circuits; just found close to zero vacuum to begin with. Is the non return valve in the heater circuit the dome shaped thingy behind the side cover above the engine?
  21. Thanks Andy - yes I looked at that already with interest. Thing is, not even the heater controls are working now, when I have had these working in the past; so there must be some kind of fault..?
  22. Further investigations have revealed that there is no leak in the pipe to the brake servo. But rather, that there is simply not enough vacuum created ‘at source’ ie the rail above the manifold, to operate the heater controls, let alone the servo. The engine recently had a complete rebuild by PNM and seems in very good shape otherwise. Before we take the manifold off, does anyone have any suggestions? Is there some kind of valve in the manifold that could be faulty? thanks team!
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