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hilly

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Posts posted by hilly

  1. Yeah, have a look at the build thread ( the link is in my footer) as this covers most if your questions.

    When I got the car ( 20 years ago, Yikes !!!!) the car was in a pretty poor state including the interior. At the time Esprits we not worth much especially as a basket case, the interior was pretty bad and the seats had be vandalised, so it was easier to just changed them at the time for some after-market Corbeau RS2 seats which were the only thing I could find that would fit. However these are not very good and not particularly comfy either so I had been looking for a set of Recaro to go in instead.

    Mid last year a set of Recaro CS seats from an Evora became available so I snapped them up, only problem is they won’t fit an Esprit.

    So over the winter I started making some adjustments, the internal sill cover, handbrake lever and cable brackets need to be moved.
    While doing this I thought is was a good time to make some adjustments to the power steering column requiring removal of the dashboard.
    While the dash was out I decided to repair the wiring loom which was a bit of a mess ( the car had 14 previous keepers) so the job kind of spiralled out of control.

    The wiring is now pretty much done, handbrake modified, steering column done and the interior is now going back (including nice new carpets from Steve) so hopefully the car will be mobile again in about a month.

    I will add some updates to the build thread once done which will include the seats fitted.

    Hilly

     

    • Like 1
  2.    Hi Andy

     

       Pleased to hear all is good mate, pants on the mutant been off the road but had the same thing myself with the silver

       mutant, flew through MOT then failed on emission on idle,  I chanced it as I had not set the req fuel level as I normally do for the test as my tablet was broken

       with the vems and xp so could not re set it. So like a muppet stripped interior for retrim !

     

       As for how are things going round here, Im Not sure as I have only just returned to the fold myself after my hibernation!

      

       Your inbox is full mate ping me your email if possible chap I remember the hut one but not the last bit :D

     

        Speak soon regards Danny

    Hi Danny

     

    in box emptied......

     

    Andy

  3. HILLY :D :D :D:welcome:

    Hi Bibs, Danny

     

    Yeah, still here, just too busy with other stuff.

    The mutant has been off the road of 18 months, not because it is broken, just not had time to get it MOTed after one of the front springs snapped causing a fail in September 2013. Had to get another set of custom springs fabbed up (which took a couple of months) and that then put it back into winter and too cold to work on it. By the time the spring went on it was march so figured i would wait until spring for the MOT and not had time to do it since.

     

    How are thing going round here ???

     

    Hilly

  4. Still around, just don't get to drop in anywhere near as much as I would like due to work commitments and house DIY (ironically moved house to get a garage to work on the Mutant and haven't had time since :( )

    The Audi 01E is very similar to the 01X I used on the Mutant except the 01E has a cast iron center section instead of alloy, which in theory make for a stronger unit.

    Of the 2 links posted only the first one is of use as it is a 2wd unit, the second unit is a 4wd box and this is not only a fair bit longer but also no use as it torque splits between the front diff and the rear output shaft. you can weld up the center diff, but this makes it inherently weaker and prone to breaking.

    Hilly

  5. Fitting the fans behind the radiator and pulling air through is more efficent.

    The pressure drop caused by the fans pulling a slight vaccum will actually cool the air.

     

    Having the fans in front will cause a slight pressure increase as the air is pushed through the core and this increases air temperature slightly.

     

    The reason why these fans should be mounted in front of the rad is due to the curvature of the blades, the fan in the picture is designed to push air.

    You could mount them on the rear and reverse the power connections, but it wouldn't move as much air.

     

    Hilly

  6. Seeing as your ECU uses speed density to work out the fuelling requirement you really need to get a representative sample of the MAP level.

    It can prove to be difficult on an engine which is fitted with individual runners and throttle bodies.

    This because unlike on an engine with a plenum (which always has one cylinder pulling a vacuum on the chamber) each runner only has vacuum during the inlet stroke. This means that 75% of the time the vacuum is leaking away. If you were to use just one inlet for the ECU MAP connection you would end up with with a lumpy map signal at low RPM,which you have observed.

    If the ECU MAP connection is linked across all the inlets what happen then is you still get the lumpy signal (all be it lower), but it is averaged across the 4 cylinders hence ending up with a much lower signal (remember each port is under vacuum for only 25% for each complete engine cycle) again which is what you are seeing.

    The way I got around this was to use a MAP connection for each port, but to keep each pipe as long as possible before link together near the ECU via a manifold joint and then onto a small chamber, see picture below.

    ecumaplines.jpg

    You may find this gets the signal good enough, if not adding a check valve (as you originally thought) and an adjustable bleed valve in parallel into the line between the chamber and the manifold joint may improve things further. Arrange the check valve so that it prevents flow out of the chamber, then use the adjustable bleed valve to control the rate at which the vacuum leaks back. Fiddle with the adjustable bleed valve until the vacuum recovery is fast enough to keep the MAP signal steady whilst still following the real vacuum level.

    Sounds like a lot, but it isn't in reality. If you need more details let me know.

    Hilly

  7. I have got a fan on both exit ducts on the Mutant which come on as soon as the engine starts and continue to run for 15 minutes after switching off the engine.

    This was done the help improve hot starting and to reduce engine temps when stuck in traffic, this was when the car had carbs (which was quite some time ago), but it is suprising how much heat is pulled out by the fans.

    Probably been on the car for 8 years now with no issues.

    For the amount of effort involved fitting fans it is well worth doing.

    Hilly

  8. Well........................

    It hasn't been plain sailing, but over all pretty good.

    These units are designed for Herald/Spitfire and a a consequence don't transfer over to the Esprit without a bit of adjustment.

    Nothing major, just a couple of minor tweaks which relate to the bottom bearing carrier.

    1) the 1/2" nut which holds the upright to the ball joint can clobber the bottom carrier at extremes of suspension travel, this caused the ball joint to wear prematurely, this was fix by the simple addition of a 5mm sleeve to move the nut away from the carrier.

    You could get the same effect by necking down the back of the nylock nut, but my solution is re-useable

    2) the bottom ball joint carrier fits onto the bottom suspension arm using the same single bolt as the trunnion. However seeing as there is also a ball joint with this new upright means that the carrier can pivot about on the arm, further increasing problem 1)

    The trunnion doesn't suffer from this as the long thread in the bottom of the upright doesn't move about like a ball joint, the single bolt can't be tightened up enough to prevent movement.

    So to get around this I just welded the carrier to the arm with a couple of small tack welds (nothing to big so that if ever needed the carrier could easily be replaced) and the problem is fixed.

    Other than that it has been fit and forget.

    Hilly

  9. For Automotive blade fuses (ie one of these R419117-91.jpg ) then they do have an in-rush spec.

    From the graph below you can see that a 7.5A fuse will be able to carry 20A for about 200milliseconds before failure, so most likely OK

    24f1.jpg

    For reference I have individually fused my 3 Spal fans with a 10A fuse for each, howeverI have used an illuminated version of the blade fuse so that you can instantly see which one has gone if a problem arises.

    Hilly

  10. Hi Simon, I am in Perth. Yes I have read Hillys thread. I think there might be less engineering fitting a G50 than an Audi box, but having said that there is still a lot of fabrication to do. I know the G50 box can handle the power and I have access to one. They are not cheap and range from$3K to $8K from my research. I will be in Tassie (Deloraine area) for 6 weeks from November 1! :) Spin

    Hi Spin

    I would be interested to hear why you think there will be less engineering effort required to fit a G50 into an S3 over an Audi box????

    Agreed the G50 has a higher torque rating, but as far as I can figure out you still need to tackle :

    1) gear linkage

    2) inboard brakes

    3) exhaust mounting

    4) gearbox/engine mounts

    5) clutch/flywheel

    6) drive shafts

    7) speedo drive

    You also have the issue of having to run the G50 inverted, this will drop the engine crank centre line in relation to the gearbox input shaft, you then have to deal with the engine cradle cross brace getting in the way which could mean a new sump.

    Then on top of that lot you need to sort out the engine/gearbox adaptor plate (which the Audi engien/gearbox combo doesn't need), so I make that more effort, of have I missed something ??

    Hilly

  11. And there was me thinking the mist would keep me camouflaged :)

    Just as well it was misty as the paint looks decidedly ropey close up.

    I have just moved offices to Bracknell so going through Ascot is my new route into work so maybe we will bump into each other again, I'll keep an eye out for your car.....................

    Hilly

  12. Andy,

    Glad to see you got the shocks and alternator problems fixed mate, did you have to pull the motor in the end........... Anyway glad to see you have been getting out and about in it,

    How do you find the links that you used to get rid off the trunions, only asking because the black ones got the bloody things :)

    Also the future plans for the mutant are they on the engine by any any chance.....................................maybe involving a large attachment to the inlet manifold,,,,,,,,,,,

    Regards danny

    Danny

    Nah, didn't need to pull the engine in the end, just put on a shorter alternator belt and fiddled with the tensioner a bit and it has been fine since.

    The Canley front uprights seem to be working fine, but it turns out they do need a bit of twaeking for the Esprit application, nothing drastic just a tiny bit of welding and some spacers machined up.

    If you decide to go for them then let me know and I'll knock a couple of the spacers up for you.

    No engine mods for the Mutant upgrade (plenty fast enough now to be honest) the changes are more drastic than that, I'll just leave you in suspense until closer to it happening.

    Hi Hilly - always good to see latest pics or vids for your car...

    If you wanted to help fund Mutant 2 - could you be parted from Mutant 1 one wonders??

    I can think of one good home :)

    Jon

    Jon

    I haven't ever considered selling the Mutant as I have put too much work into it, besides not sure if anyone would buy it as it has been so hacked about.

    Funds aren't the issue with Mutant2, space and finding the time at the moment is the problem :(

    Hilly

  13. This has come up a few times over the years, and the general advice is not to remove the air box as the inlet ait temps will go through the roof.

    I'll have a look for the post I wrote a while back as it explains whats going on, ah, here it is.....

    Everyone knows stuff expands when you heat it up, well the same goes for air.

    Cool air is more dense and hence contains more oxygen.

    As cool air has more oxygen in it than warm you can add more fuel and get a bigger bang out of it for the same volume.

    A VERY basic rule of thumb is that for every 1°C rise in air temperature you loose 1/2 BHP (ish).

    With the air box and piping you will be sucking air in from the atmosphere at around 25°c in summer (depending where you are) and much less in winter. By the time it has gone through the pipework and air box and into the engine it may have risen to 30°C in this example.

    Say you now junk all that air box nonsense and just stick some small bike filters on, where is the engine going to get it's air from ????

    The answer is from inside the engine bay, and the one on the Lotus is effectivley an upside down bath tub. Hot air from the engine rises and collects under the cover waiting to now be sucked in by the engine.

    The engine is running at 80°C so lets say the air in the engine bay is at 70°C just to make the numbers easy.

    So now the air going into the engine is 40°C hotter than with the air box so roughly that is 20BHP (40°C x 0.5 BHP) less!!!!

    In the real world it is probably even worse.

    The reason you would want to loose the air box and piping is to reduce restrictions, but any small gains you may get are instantly wiped out (and more besides) by the power lost due to the massive rise in inlet charge temperature.

    Also, warm air is more prone to detonation so you can't run as much ignition advance either so it is a double hit.

    This is why on turbo cars you really need an intercooler or charge cooler because the act of compressing the air generates heat as well as passing through a hot turbo increase the charge temperature.

    So don't mess with the inlet system, unless you like the look of the bike filters and can't handle to power :police:

    As for the electric fan superchargers, done even go there.........

    Hilly

  14. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

    Time for an update me thinks.

    Well the short answer is I haven't done much over the last year as I have been doing DIY ready to sell my house and move to a place with a double garage so I can get on and start mutant 2.

    This has been delayed by my girlfriend being made redundant just (literally) as we were about to put the house on the market.

    The Mutant hasn't been driven very much this year due to it requiring new dampers as the front AVOs were leaking after only 2000 miles and a problem with the alternator belt.

    This took longer than I would have liked due to :-

    1) DIY taking up valuable time

    2) the snow earlier in the year

    3) I am getting soft and don't like working outside in the cold much any more ........

    But the recent nice weather has allowed me to swap out all the dampers, investigate the alternator issue, make a few running changes to the trunnion-less front uprights and change the drive shaft boots.

    I have also fitted a much larger fuse box as it blew 2 of the main fuses on the way home from work last month (cause unknown) and stopped dead on a narrow lane in Wokingham.

    A quick frantic swapping of fuses got it going again, so now everything runs from separate fuses (24 of them now) instead of only 8, so if it happens again the engine won't conk out this time.

    As it happens I was driving the car to work yesterday for the first time for ages when this thread popped back up again, so pretty timely.

    As for modifications, none for a while, but as soon as I move I have got quite a big one planned for the Mutant so watch this space.........

    Hilly

  15. As far as I can figure out it is do-able, just a matter of getting the right parts which is where the problem comes in.

    New from Lotus they would cost a bomb, where as second hand parts don't appear very often.

    You would probably need the rear uprights, brake calipers, rear hubs, brake discs, wheels, drive shafts, complete gear linkage assembly, exhaust box hanger and gearbox as a minimum. As you can see quite a long list and without a donor 'S' car it is unlikely you could get all this lot.

    If it is a pre 1985 car then you then have the problem of how to get the front hub PCD to match the rears as the later units won't fit.

    On pre 1981 car you won't have the upper link on the rear uprights and I don't know if the Renault box can take the axial load of using the drive shaft as the part of the suspension.

    With respect to 'G' cars with Renault gearboxes, these are quite likely 'G' cars bodies on later chassis as is makes the whole process MUCH easier......

    Hilly

  16. When fitting the LEDs for my speedo and tacho back-lighting I used these :-

    Lumileds%20Luxeon%201%203%205.png

    They are Luxeon 1W batwing emitters which spread the light out sideways (hence the odd shape) instead of out the front with normal LEDs. They are available in a wide range of colours, but you need do a bit of assembly and add a current limiting resistor to the bulb holder.

    For the other gauges I found that the narrower angle Luxeon LEDs gave a better result.

    Hilly

  17. The rear uprights between 'G' and 'S' cars are different as on the later cars the drive shaft outer CV joint spline goes straight into the rear wheel hub.

    Earlier cars have a flange on the back of the upright which the CV joint bolts onto.

    Whether and earlier CV joint flange (which has the hub spline on the back of it) will fit a later upright is unknown........

    Same goes for the inner CV joint, you have no way of fitting your Renault based inner joint to fit the Audi gearbox due to the spline.

    Without swapping bits about you will need custom drive shafts.

    Hilly

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