jdfish

Just purchased a 2012 Evora S and want to change the gearbox oil as it's never been done. The drain nut is obvious but I'm not so sure about the fill hole. Does anyone have pics of the procedure?

Andy, Mine would be a US Spec car (I believe) as it was shipped to Canada and had all of the air pump kit (since removed) that the US cars required. My next step is to assume the new relay won't work and swap the known operating relay to the right-side headlight to see if it works. If it doesnt then I suppose the motor is at fault.

Well I thought I had it sorted. Swapped the relays and the left side light worked fine. So, figured it was the relay yes? Found a new relay and inserted, blown fuse again. Back to square one and will swap the new relay to the right side to see if that motor is ok.

I have done what you're suggesting. Have now found that the fuse was blown and the left side lift works but the right side keeps blowing the fuse. I will experiment with switching the relays to see if all is good with the right side motor. If the relay is faulty will any 5 pin relay work?

Hi all, After removing the front bumper for a foam/bumper anchor repair, I re-attached the headlight lift arms to the motors and now the headlights won't go up/down. The headlights, high-beams, turn signals, wiper and horn all work. At the relay cluster beside the left headlight, there appears to be a relay that is draining the battery if I leave it inserted (#5 from the top in the attached pic). It was buzzing at some points during the repair and seemed to eventually drain the battery. Also, my manual does not indicate the relay setup I have so I don't know what some of the relays are for. What I have found is that the relays control the following (from top down) #1-? #2-? #3Headlights/High Beams #4-Parking Lights #5-? #6-Horn All help and guidance appreciated! Cheers, Dan

.......well, lots of interesting thoughts....some rather frightening!! I will look for pedal movement on throttle (maybe best done with a willing test passenger) but am sure that the slave is secure and bolted in tightly. I've already checked the lever freeplay and the exposed threaded bolt is at spec. I'm half suspecting some corrosion so may try to lube the pressure plate somehow..carefully

Thanks John, Appreciate the advice. I will remove the slave rod and see if this isolates the issue.

Thanks for the guidance. The lever into the bell housing moves freely when cold but I hadn't thought of a possible bearing issue on its pivot point Sounds like a winter project as long as things hold up over the summer. I imagine that a complete bearing failure could render the clutch useless.

Whe cold my clutch pedal pressure seems as stock, but when out for a ride the pressure stiffens up. Some history; After messing about with master and slave cylinder rebuild kits that didn't work too well I have installed rebuilt units from SJS. I made my own pressure bleeder and have successfully bled the line (changed to braided stainless some time ago) Everything works fine except when up to operating temp the pedal pressure gets noticeably stiffer. I have roted the clutch line outside of the rear chassis section to stay away from heat/interferences. Is this simply the fluid heating up and expanding or is there something else going on?

Thanks for all of the advice gents. Job is done and the new dampers are in. Used a breaker bar with a socket attachement so that I could get at the nuts 90degrees. It took a while but it worked.

........have new dampers but I'm at a complete loss as to how to remove the two top nuts on the damper stem. There is NO access!!

I bought a set out of Hong Kong some time ago (said Samco but I doubt original) and just did a search on eBay. TT Racing has sets from $175 to $195 dependent on colour. My set fit fine except for a minor mod for the rad hoses.

Bill, My engine cover still had the bi-metallic t-stat installed so I simpl wired the relay thru this stat. If your t-stat is missing you could simply add one. Dan My fan draws air up out of the engine bay and I understand that this is to cool the carb bowls when the car is stopped. My fan runs on for quite a while after the car is stopped but it does stop. If the t-stat fails or is not adjusted/cleaned this can cause issues. Some have had problems with the fan running on and draining the battery and I suspect this is why they have removed the wiring. After I re-wired I've never had the fan run on so long that it has drained the battery. Keeping the t-stat clean is important.

I've just re-built my master cylinder (its aluminum not cast) and the internals were in amazing condition. Got the re-build kit from SJS in the UK for less than $10. Didn't have to remove the seat or steering wheel as all you have to do is remove the clip that connects the slave rod to the pedal and pull the slave out from the boot (trunk) side. I've rebuilt the slave as well and I'm not too sure that it will hold as well as the master as it is cast. I haven't filled the system and tested yet so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Bill, On my 85 the fan is built into the engine cover and there should be a cable and connector coming off the cover to plug into the white receptacle you have hilighted. The previous owner of my car had removed all of the associated wiring to my fan, so I have had to re-wire completely with a relay etc and by-passed the white connector altogether. I'm in Burlington if you want to see what I've done. Dan