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  1. so the dealer garage is suggesting that with the clutch fluid being a few years old, plus me having done a few track days that there may be some air or condensation in the fluid and that a flush/fill with hi-temp fluid will likely fix the issue I get the car back in a few days so we will see.
  2. Checked the shifting with the engine off and without depressing the clutch and it seems better, but how is this connected to a clutch issue? I haven't changed the clutch/brake fluid in a few years so that can't help.
  3. I haven't checked the shifting with the engine off...yet, but will. Over the past few years I have found the shifter to be getting more and more notchy.
  4. Over the past month I've had a number of instances where I can't get the car into 1st gear after backing the car out of my drive. Happened again last night and now I'm worried that I'm going to get the car stranded somewhere. Anyone else have this issue? I'm taking the car to the dealer to have this checked out but looking for any thoughts on what it could be ie; stretched cables, slave cylinder.
  5. Last week I installed refurbished pod motors from SJ Sportscars and they run fine. Last night i "borrowed" the relay for the rear heated screen and installed in the missing relay slot luck, then checked the fuses in the panel to the left of the steering wheel and found one that had blown. Replaced it and the pods work fine now. So happy to have this sorted, thanks Thomas.
  6. Thomas, Thanks for the clarification and details. You are correct that the two 87 contacts are in fact 87 and 87a. I have changeover relays and when i insert one into the missing relay space the headlight pods do the "up down, up down" cycle repeatedly. time to look for a bad ground??
  7. One of the original relays has gone missing. Does anyone know of a correct replacement relay? The other relay is a 5 pin but it seems to have a diode symbol on it.
  8. Atwell, Many thanks for the lead. I will contact JAE.
  9. Hi all, My radiator fan relay started buzzing and clicking a few days ago. I tried a relay from Napa today but the radiator fans start up without the ignition on so clearly it is the incorrect relay. Both the stock relay and the Napa one are 5 pin. My intent is to replace both the Interior Fans Relay and the Radiator Fans Relay. I've searched for the Wehrle replacement but cant seem to land on the correct part number. If anyone has gone through this and sourced the relays I would appreciate some help. Pics are attached. Thanks, Dan
  10. It's not an air by-pass, it fully restricts airflow when closed, thus my suspicion that it is related to emissions reduction or minimizing pressure blowback on the turbo when the throttle is closed
  11. Thanks Jon. I'm about to do the same after researching alot of engine pics online where this thing doesn't even appear to be installed. May be a North American requirement for emissions.
  12. So I have searched and can't find out how to properly set up the springs for the actuator at the turbo end of the intake plenum pipe. It looks to me like the purpose of this mechanism is to prevent reverse intake pulse slowing the turbo down. Back when I bought the car one of the springs on this assembly was broken and I've never gotten around to fixing it. I simply cable tied it open and the car seems to run ok. Any help to explain the purpose of this thing and how to get it set up properly would be very much appreciated. Happy quarantine to all btw.
  13. Just purchased a 2012 Evora S and want to change the gearbox oil as it's never been done. The drain nut is obvious but I'm not so sure about the fill hole. Does anyone have pics of the procedure?
  14. Andy, Mine would be a US Spec car (I believe) as it was shipped to Canada and had all of the air pump kit (since removed) that the US cars required. My next step is to assume the new relay won't work and swap the known operating relay to the right-side headlight to see if it works. If it doesnt then I suppose the motor is at fault.
  15. Well I thought I had it sorted. Swapped the relays and the left side light worked fine. So, figured it was the relay yes? Found a new relay and inserted, blown fuse again. Back to square one and will swap the new relay to the right side to see if that motor is ok.
  16. I have done what you're suggesting. Have now found that the fuse was blown and the left side lift works but the right side keeps blowing the fuse. I will experiment with switching the relays to see if all is good with the right side motor. If the relay is faulty will any 5 pin relay work?
  17. Hi all, After removing the front bumper for a foam/bumper anchor repair, I re-attached the headlight lift arms to the motors and now the headlights won't go up/down. The headlights, high-beams, turn signals, wiper and horn all work. At the relay cluster beside the left headlight, there appears to be a relay that is draining the battery if I leave it inserted (#5 from the top in the attached pic). It was buzzing at some points during the repair and seemed to eventually drain the battery. Also, my manual does not indicate the relay setup I have so I don't know what some of the relays are for. What I have found is that the relays control the following (from top down) #1-? #2-? #3Headlights/High Beams #4-Parking Lights #5-? #6-Horn All help and guidance appreciated! Cheers, Dan
  18. .......well, lots of interesting thoughts....some rather frightening!! I will look for pedal movement on throttle (maybe best done with a willing test passenger) but am sure that the slave is secure and bolted in tightly. I've already checked the lever freeplay and the exposed threaded bolt is at spec. I'm half suspecting some corrosion so may try to lube the pressure plate somehow..carefully
  19. Thanks John, Appreciate the advice. I will remove the slave rod and see if this isolates the issue.
  20. Thanks for the guidance. The lever into the bell housing moves freely when cold but I hadn't thought of a possible bearing issue on its pivot point Sounds like a winter project as long as things hold up over the summer. I imagine that a complete bearing failure could render the clutch useless.
  21. Whe cold my clutch pedal pressure seems as stock, but when out for a ride the pressure stiffens up. Some history; After messing about with master and slave cylinder rebuild kits that didn't work too well I have installed rebuilt units from SJS. I made my own pressure bleeder and have successfully bled the line (changed to braided stainless some time ago) Everything works fine except when up to operating temp the pedal pressure gets noticeably stiffer. I have roted the clutch line outside of the rear chassis section to stay away from heat/interferences. Is this simply the fluid heating up and expanding or is there something else going on?
  22. Thanks for all of the advice gents. Job is done and the new dampers are in. Used a breaker bar with a socket attachement so that I could get at the nuts 90degrees. It took a while but it worked.
  23. ........have new dampers but I'm at a complete loss as to how to remove the two top nuts on the damper stem. There is NO access!!
  24. I bought a set out of Hong Kong some time ago (said Samco but I doubt original) and just did a search on eBay. TT Racing has sets from $175 to $195 dependent on colour. My set fit fine except for a minor mod for the rad hoses.
  25. Bill, My engine cover still had the bi-metallic t-stat installed so I simpl wired the relay thru this stat. If your t-stat is missing you could simply add one. Dan My fan draws air up out of the engine bay and I understand that this is to cool the carb bowls when the car is stopped. My fan runs on for quite a while after the car is stopped but it does stop. If the t-stat fails or is not adjusted/cleaned this can cause issues. Some have had problems with the fan running on and draining the battery and I suspect this is why they have removed the wiring. After I re-wired I've never had the fan run on so long that it has drained the battery. Keeping the t-stat clean is important.
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